IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Be4u on July 12 2005, 03:03:38 AM
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This is what I bought, It has the starburst.
I heard that the starburst is bad. Will this oil be OK to break in my engine?
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Don't use it. Check out Castrol bottles. Off the top of my head I think straight GTX (no "w") is what you want to use.
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Robert, I have always used a straight 30w motor oil to break in all my engines. Typically I have stuck with Texaco Havoline, but on occasions I have used Valvoline. The main thing is use a high quailty oil. Don't use that Tech oil. It loses its lubericating properties very quickly.
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I have went to Walmart and autozone and every bottle of oil has the starburst.
I guess I have 9 quarts of oil that I can grease the slipNslide with. :rofl;
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I think they all have the star, read the text inside the circle.
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Out loud?
American petroleum Institute
Certified
FOR GASOLINE ENGINES
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That oil you purchased is fine for break in. You don't want to use to high
of a quality oil during break in, otherwise your parts won't wear in
with each other properly. As for brand, there are only 3 companies
that produce petroleum based motor oil. (Shell, Exxon, and British Petroleum)
All other brands are manufactured by one of these companies, and
re-labeled. They're all API certified to meet set standards. Straight weight
oils aren't required for break in. Most automobile manufacturers use
multigrades. However I don't believe that a straight will cause any harm either.
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Damn, I just read my notes and yes....regular cheap dino 10w30 with a bottle of EOS is what was suggested to me.
I've reasearched so much that I got myself confused. Well anyways, Like I said in the shoutbox, I found some straight 30 oil so I guess I'll have even more oil for the slip-n-slide!
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Use it for robot sex!
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Damn, I just read my notes and yes....regular cheap dino 10w30
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As it has been said, most oils are the same base with somewhat varying amounts/types of additive. You really don't want slippery oil during break in, (ie no synthetic), then the parts wont "seat" correctly. I would use regular old 10w30...
And it's bad if the bottle does NOT have the API cert starburst, but I think you would be hard pressed to find an auto oil without it.
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GSGN! I was just talking about you last week with some guy at work. We were trying to figure out what the Granite state was. I was like hey, I know a guy....
I dont have to break my cam in. Roller cam.
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Damage or not - you must be excited!
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I am excited! Very.
But you know how your a kid and open a present and you thing your getting a transformer... it turns out to be a sock? LoL!!! I'm just pissed that someone couldnt take care of my shit.
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GSGN! I was just talking about you last week with some guy at work. We were trying to figure out what the Granite state was. I was like hey, I know a guy....
No, you know 2 ! :rolleyes: :finga:
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The guy I was talking to said he ownes a Granite Company. We were trying to figure out what the Granite state was. It's NH?
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GSGN! I was just talking about you last week with some guy at work. We were trying to figure out what the Granite state was. I was like hey, I know a guy....
I dont have to break my cam in. Roller cam.
Cool, whose roller cam? Sorry to hear about your motor. Hopefully, it's mostly cosmetic. Are you planning on going to the track with it? What kind of ET are you shooting for?
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The guy I was talking to said he ownes a Granite Company. We were trying to figure out what the Granite state was. It's NH?
Yep.. HN
"Live Free Or Die"..
I love that..
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GSGN! I was just talking about you last week with some guy at work. We were trying to figure out what the Granite state was. I was like hey, I know a guy....
I dont have to break my cam in. Roller cam.
Cool, whose roller cam? Sorry to hear about your motor. Hopefully, it's mostly cosmetic. Are you planning on going to the track with it? What kind of ET are you shooting for?
I dont know whos roller cam. I'm still waiting for my invoice.
I'll definatly take it to the track and shooting for high tens at first. After I get a new tranny, rear end, and better fuel pump I'mm go for mid tens. Thats it hopefully, I dont want to push the car.
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I dont know whos roller cam. I'm still waiting for my invoice.
I'll definatly take it to the track and shooting for high tens at first. After I get a new tranny, rear end, and better fuel pump I'mm go for mid tens. Thats it hopefully, I dont want to push the car.
10's is purty quick. Good luck with it. I'll be happy with a mid-11 timeslip some day.
Live Free or Die! No sales tax, no income tax....but the property tax will knock your socks off. :flat; Plenty of granite... and radon.
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I was thinking about going roller in my new engine. Man, those
things are expensive ! :bigeyes; I allready have over $1k into
my block alone. The heads are nearly done. I basically have to do a
little seat work and assemble them. A good build up can add up fast....
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For real Rob, everything you add something it makes the price jump $500 to 1K at a time. Billet rods piss me off. If you have a V8 you can buy 8 for $600. If you have a V6 you buy 6 for $900.
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For real Rob, everything you add something it makes the price jump $500 to 1K at a time. Billet rods piss me off. If you have a V8 you can buy 8 for $600. If you have a V6 you buy 6 for $900.
To add to that. If you have a 4cyl., a set off billet rods will set you back $1k. (1.7liter VW Scirocco, SCCA GT-3 car) Ass for a Buick, the stock rods are very strong. If they're well prepped, they'll hold up to your demands just fine.
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I still went with billet for piece of mind...I figured the engine was opened up anyways, might as well get it done.
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reading the last couple of post has me thinking that what I spent for the stage 2 parts I have was a really killer deal.