IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => Paint and Body => Topic started by: SuperSix on January 12 2011, 02:38:07 PM
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I need to fix some damage from a moron that tried to steal my TR a few years ago.
I replaced the steering column (3rd time's a charm), but I need to start thinking about fixing the external damage. I don't want to replace the entire decklid or door/skin - has anyone had success cutting out and welding in a repair panel?
Maybe I will shave the locks on the trunk and passenger door. . .
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/trunk.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/passdoor.jpg)
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Best would be a new lid, next would be a plate and paint match. Last would be fill it in and get a auto trunk release.
Or you can just do this
http://www.thosefunnypictures.com/resize.php?file=pictures/7285/Funny_Pictures_7285.jpg
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Best would be a new lid, next would be a plate and paint match. Last would be fill it in and get a auto trunk release.
Or you can just do this
http://www.thosefunnypictures.com/resize.php?file=pictures/7285/Funny_Pictures_7285.jpg
Nice! I like that. I need to get a Power 6 engraved on the lock though
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I would bend the door lock parts back, weld n grind.
The trunk need a donor piece for sure, suspect many 80s GM lock area is the same?
Context?-Is this quick and dirty while saving up for a paint job? or?
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I need to fix some damage from a moron that tried to steal my TR a few years ago.
I replaced the steering column (3rd time's a charm), but I need to start thinking about fixing the external damage. I don't want to replace the entire decklid or door/skin - has anyone had success cutting out and welding in a repair panel?
Maybe I will shave the locks on the trunk and passenger door. . .
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/trunk.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/passdoor.jpg)
The door can be fixed a body shop did mine when they stole it and it looked wose than that fucking amatures don't now how to get it without messing the doors up because skins are long gone as far as the trunk i agree with the others that you have to replace
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I would bend the door lock parts back, weld n grind.
The trunk need a donor piece for sure, suspect many 80s GM lock area is the same?
Context?-Is this quick and dirty while saving up for a paint job? or?
Good ideas.
Pretty much - I have never desired a show car - and if someone here can offer an idea other than replacing the whole panels - it's money saved.
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I would shave it if it was mine. That too is quick and easy.
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I would shave it if it was mine. That too is quick and easy.
I am leaning towards this. I have a remote trunk release, and just shave or repair the passenger door lock.
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Maybe this would hide the damage:
http://www.billionsandtrillionsinc.com/pics/buickemblems/pages/DSC01441.htm
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Maybe this would hide the damage:
http://www.billionsandtrillionsinc.com/pics/buickemblems/pages/DSC01441.htm
:cool;
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i will go ahead and warn you since the previous owner just stuffed bondo in the holes on the drivers side and trunk on my car. i didnt think it was a big deal at first. it sucks having to open the passengers side then unlock the drivers side from inside. the trunk however isnt that bad. it actually looks better shaved. but in your situation its on the passengerside. so i dont see it being a big deal. but i would get the door fixed anyways.
just my 2 cents
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I wouldn't be surprised if a piece from a door
would work to fix the trunk. Its not a spot that rusts out on a door, find somebody scrapping his rusty doors.
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A remote door lock setup is fairly cheap and is easy to install.
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we sell plates to repair that,,,basically you cut out the damaged area and weld in a new plate
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we sell plates to repair that,,,basically you cut out the damaged area and weld in a new plate
WHo is 'we', and do you have pic links?
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Another vendor has infiltrated the board! LOL
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we sell plates to repair that,,,basically you cut out the damaged area and weld in a new plate
WHo is 'we', and do you have pic links?
will get pics at work....
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Another vendor has infiltrated the board!
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Another vendor has infiltrated the board!
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He got it.
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He got it.
anything you need is marked up 100% :rofl;
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I would expect nothing less!
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Another vendor has infiltrated the board!
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Don't waste your money on a 110 volt unit.
AJ___
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Don't waste your money on a 110 volt unit.
AJ___
Just for basic body work/exhaust?
I have no excuse for not getting a 220v - my electrical panel is in the garage.
OK - I need a basic starter unit, do the gas less ones work for my needs?
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Don't waste your money on a 110 volt unit.
AJ___
Just for basic body work/exhaust?
I have no excuse for not getting a 220v - my electrical panel is in the garage.
OK - I need a basic starter unit, do the gas less ones work for my needs?
The price difference between the 110 and 220 are trivial. Anyone I know that bought the 110 unit always trip the breaker if they use the high current setting. The cost difference from the non gas to gas is miniscule, get one that can use gas. You do not need to use the gas if not needed. You change the wire and change the polarity of the electrode and use the cored wire. Some units have a switch to change the polarity others you have to take a nuts off and and then move the cables and replace the nuts.
The gassless ones are great outside when there is wind.
If you are welding inside and doing panel work use the gas unit.
Panel stitching takes time, but well worth the effort.
Take a evening course at the local College cheap and good training.
With practice you will become proficient.
AJ___
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Awesome input. Thanks!
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The price difference between the 110 and 220 are trivial. Anyone I know that bought the 110 unit always trip the breaker if they use the high current setting. The cost difference from the non gas to gas is miniscule, get one that can use gas. You do not need to use the gas if not needed. You change the wire and change the polarity of the electrode and use the cored wire. Some units have a switch to change the polarity others you have to take a nuts off and and then move the cables and replace the nuts.
The gassless ones are great outside when there is wind.
If you are welding inside and doing panel work use the gas unit.
Panel stitching takes time, but well worth the effort.
Take a evening course at the local College cheap and good training.
With practice you will become proficient.
AJ___
I would agree that the gas unit works better but as far as a 110 unit not having enough power I'd have to argue with you there AJ. We use one in the shop all the time and have used it to weld quite a few race cars together. Never had a failure on a weld yet and haven't popped a breaker yet. You just have to check the load of the unit and the duty cycle so you can get the best one out there. As far as learning how to weld body panels, take your time and it will come out fine. This side took me about 12 hours to get it done right and if you look at it from about 10 feet, you can't tell it's been replaced.
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I would agree that the gas unit works better but as far as a 110 unit not having enough power I'd have to argue with you there AJ. We use one in the shop all the time and have used it to weld quite a few race cars together. Never had a failure on a weld yet and haven't popped a breaker yet. You just have to check the load of the unit and the duty cycle so you can get the best one out there. As far as learning how to weld body panels, take your time and it will come out fine. This side took me about 12 hours to get it done right and if you look at it from about 10 feet, you can't tell it's been replaced.
Hi Charlie what 110 volt unit do you have and what the circuit setup is. That would help him to know what to buy. I was just stating what I have seen, I did not look into their wiring, breaker parameters.
Agreed it can be done; with the price difference today is it worth buying a 110 unit?
AJ___
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Hi Charlie what 110 volt unit do you have and what the circuit setup is. That would help him to know what to buy. I was just stating what I have seen, I did not look into their wiring, breaker parameters.
Agreed it can be done; with the price difference today is it worth buying a 110 unit?
AJ___
I didn't set it up AJ. I'd honestly have to look at it because I don't remember what unit it is but I do know it's several years old now. Century is a good one as well as Hobart. The 110 units are very useful and to be honest I'd like to have a 220 unit but this is what we've got right now so it's what we use. I'd also suggest that you get one for gas because you can use flux core in it if you have to do some welding outside. Just disconnect the gas and you're ready to go.
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I didn't set it up AJ. I'd honestly have to look at it because I don't remember what unit it is but I do know it's several years old now. Century is a good one as well as Hobart. The 110 units are very useful and to be honest I'd like to have a 220 unit but this is what we've got right now so it's what we use. I'd also suggest that you get one for gas because you can use flux core in it if you have to do some welding outside. Just disconnect the gas and you're ready to go.
Agree definitely get a gas unit.
AJ___
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Just thought to add something.
A lot of the cheap units leave the wire HOT !
You need to be very careful with that type of unit.
I had one and it was a pain. . .
AJ___
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Just thought to add something.
A lot of the cheap units leave the wire HOT !
You need to be very careful with that type of unit.
I had one and it was a pain. . .
AJ___
Gotta agree 1000% here. My first one was hot all the time and you had to be very careful where you put it or you had sparks fly everywhere. Not fun. :vom:
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best bet to purchase is http://www.weldingmart.com/
we do not do the volume they do so the pricing is great..
get a gas unit..and there are plenty of 110 units that work fine...I have both...for quick jobs such welding a bung into a down pipe I use the gasless with flux coated wire..but for panels and large jobs I use the Argon welder...If I had the extra $$$ I would go Tig...