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Topics - dyermullet
16
« on: October 20 2014, 09:54:39 AM »
Any good options?
Mine broke yesterday. I went to advance auto parts and bought one (doorman) it doesn't fit. The length of the inner cable is too short so when connected to the shifter it is too short to reach the trans. I then compaired it to my old one and confirmed it was incorrect. Next I tried oreily they had pioneer brand and it was incorrect also. Then I did a search on tb.com lots of people had my issue, and even if they get a cable that is correct it just fails within a few days of service.
Is there any alternatives? I guess I could try a universal cable. I was also thinking I could try to find a shop that makes custom cables. We have a company car show this saturday and I have busted my ass for last 2 weeks getting the car reassembled.
17
« on: August 29 2014, 01:32:30 PM »
My engine needs rebuilt. I have so many other issues with the car to work through and want to get it back on the road (but mostly out of the garage and out of the way). I am looking for a serviceable short block (with cam) or long block that was running with oil pressure etc. So that way I can drop it in and move onto all the other issues with the car. I plan to do a quality performance rebuild on my engine later when I am not in a rush for time or money. I am in Houston Texas area, but am willing to travel or pay shipping. I also have friends that can pickup for me in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota.
Thanks
Scott
18
« on: February 27 2014, 10:17:51 AM »
All,
I need help with some common no start things to check on my car. I just moved and am still unpacking my stuff (manuals wiring diagrams and tools), don't have internet access at home yet, and have not had much chance to troubleshoot the car yet.
87 TR
factory ecu, TT chip (does not have no start feature), all stock style setup maf etc.
Car started fine drove onto trailer, towed it to my new place, started fine drove off the trailer and parked it next to my garage. I put enough things away in the garage the next day to make room for the car and now it will not start.
The battery is good, starter is good engine cranks over, and can tell it has compression from the sound. When I turn the key on the fuel pump does not run, so I thought maybe pump or relay was bad so I hot wired the pump. With the pump hot wired it runs and I can hear the fuel flowing through the fuel rails. Then when I tried to start still nothing. So either the injectors are not firing or no spark or both. I checked the fuse labeled ECM (with a meter)it is good. The ground to the fuel pump is good I only had to hot wire the positive side.
When I get my timing light unpacked I will attach it to a plug wire and see if I have spark or not. I have not had time to use my meter to start checking for power everywhere.
So with that back story I need some common causes to look for that would prevent the fuel pump from running and either no spark or no injectors firing. My gut feeling is either positive power supplied to the ECU or a ground that is common to fuel pump relay and computer, ignition etc.
Thanks in advance for any help.
19
« on: November 22 2013, 11:04:58 PM »
My transmission needs a rebuild, I plan on doing it myself this coming spring. I have nothing invested in the 2004r yet, mine is bone stock.
My car is stock engine, TA49 turbo, 60lb injectors running E85 (will be switching back to gas now that I moved to Houston), stock intercooler, stock maf etc. I do not plan on anymore engine mods, I want to max out the current combo and stop there. I am more interested in drag racing with a stick.
I want to go with something that I build once and will be happy for years with just fluid changes. In the past I know guys were trying the AOD. I don't know what happened with that experiment. I have friends that drag race with the 4R70W(newer version of AOD), it handles lots of power without breaking a sweat, and they are cheap to build.
I am just looking for some opinions on anything better just trying to think outside of the box a little bit. I have been out of the buick game for ~5 years while my car has been sitting. I am here looking for opinions from the guys that actually know these cars. I am sure if i post on tb.com I would get a bunch of suggestions to install a 4L80, which I am not making enough power to need.
20
« on: October 14 2013, 10:26:28 PM »
1998 Suburban 4L60E with ~70,000 miles on the rebuild. The PO had the trans rebuild by a trans shop I have the receipts somewhere. I will have to double check but I think the converter was replaced at that time.
Last sunday I was towing my mustang home from Bowling Green to Houston. About 7 hours into the trip after stopping for gas their was a horrible high pitched screeching sound from the transmission in 1st and 2nd with the engine above 3200 rpm (accelerating up to highway speed). I know these 4L60's are fragile so I just towed the whole way in 3rd gear no OD used. When the screeching sound happens it also felt like the truck stopped pulling/accelerating as hard. I don't know if it would make the screeching noise in 3rd because I did not drive that fast I didn't run more than 3000 rpm in 3rd. I wasn't hammering on the truck just between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle while accelerating up to highway speed but once the noise started I would just let out and the trans would up-shift noise would go away and I would continue to accelerate. This continued for the rest of the trip.
After the trip driving around town empty no trailer I can run the engine all way to the redline in 1st and 2nd and up to 4,000 in 3rd no abnormal noises and the truck accelerates the whole time. I drive it to work daily and have not had a bad shift, or a slip or anything strange.
While towing when the truck stopped pulling it did not feel like the transmission was slipping, the engine rpm did not change just stopped pulling.
When hearing the noise while towing my initial thought was noise coming from the converter. After noticing that the truck stopped accelerating but it wasn't trans slippage also made me feel like it might be converter.
Any ideas? I probably won't be towing anything for a few months and then it will just be local.
Scott
21
« on: September 19 2013, 08:11:03 PM »
I know there are a lot of members from Texas.
Anyone know of a place with good prices? I am looking for a budget (yes cheap) open trailer.
I had a real nice Sure Track steel deck trailer that i sold to a friend when I sold my 3/4 ton truck. The trailer was a beast tube frame and very heavy. I only have a half ton truck now and I am looking for a lighter trailer, something cheaper just to move some cars around. Eventually I want to buy a nice aluminum trailer but for now I don't have the $$ since I am saving for a house down payment. I called a few places here in Houston today and the best price on a wood deck trailer I found was $2400 and $3000 for a steel deck.
I am willing to drive for a deal.
Thanks.
22
« on: August 18 2013, 10:04:28 PM »
The insulator fell apart on my alternator when removing the battery cable. These are not available from any parts stores, the only source is online. $6 part does not meet min order price + additional shipping. http://store.alternatorparts.com/part-491503-10si-battery-terminal-kit.aspxI had my local advance auto parts order the alternator battery stud kit for an 85 amp alternator. , since it looked close in the picture. BWD Part #SC562 $2.79 Most auto parts stores have this available, Napa, oreiley carquest etc. The stud and one nut is incorrect for our alternator, but I took a sharp knife and cut the "nipple" off the black insulator and it fits perfectly. You can also reuse the insulator cap that covers the battery cable. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_alternator-connector-bwd_20430080-p?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999 I took some pictures showing the mod before I assembled the alternator but had to reset my phone and lost the pictures.
23
« on: August 10 2013, 03:57:56 PM »
The ear is broke off mine. Is their any options to get one new? I searched all the auto parts stores and have came up empty.
24
« on: May 26 2013, 12:32:34 PM »
I have been out of the buick game for a few years and am just getting back to working on my car.
Has anyone converted their TB to a newer factory computer? One that lets you just flash the tune and use the software that all the big shops know like HPtuners, or EFI Live?
I know that the GM 411 computer has turned into a popular swap for 3rd gen camaros and for vortec 350 trucks.
The wiring harness is my car is falling apart, so before I replace it I wanted to explore all options for upgrading. I don't want to go with an aftermarket ecu right now. But if I could use a late model GM computer then I could use the same software for cars other than just my Buick.
Thanks
Scott
25
« on: December 11 2012, 01:40:44 AM »
Car is a 87 WE4, with TA49 injectors and tune.
I am about 6 months away from getting back to working on my car, I need to buy a house first. This question is more thinking out loud and looking to hear the options from everyone who has been there before.
The car has been parked for over 2 years due to a bad trans, I have drove it a few times recently after swapping the trans but right now the car is in the garage with a cover over it. From sitting for so long the car has developed some leaks from the engine. Once I get a place to work on the car I am going to pull the engine so that way I can replace all the gaskets, cleanup under the hood, paint, etc. My wiring harness is falling apart so I will need to replace it also.
My engine has ~119,000 original miles all stock, still has the original head gaskets, but has had the timing chain and valve springs replaced, and has the wearplate deal installed in the oil pump. It runs strong but it gets significant gas dilution in the oil. This car has been ran hard taken to the track plenty of times, but it has always had the oil changed and been taken care of, careful with the tune etc. It consumes a little bit of oil, and also a tiny amount of coolant. The coolant and oil consumption is very slight after a month of driving the car 3 or 4 times a week I will notice the coolant level somewhat low and ~ 1/2 quart low on oil (this was before it developed the leaks the engine used to be done dry).
When I get the engine out and on a stand I will know more of its internal condition. I will inspect all the bottom end bearings. I know I will be able to see the bottom side of the cylinders, but since I have this small coolant consumption I think I might as well just break the factory head gasket seal and replace them (I am assuming they are letting a small amount of coolant by, nothing is showing on any plugs but the loss is so slow it wouldn't show).
Here is where the questions start:
Should I break the sacred factory head gasket seal?
How well do these engines wear, is there a good chance that when I open it up that I will be able install new rings on the stock pistons? Or am i more likely to find that I will need to bore the engine?
How about the bottom end with this many miles what should I be expecting? The car does not have an oil pressure gauge so I don't know how many pounds it holds currently.
I don't really care to go any faster with this car and don't have any plans for more mods(I have a stick shift car with a blue oval for that), I just want a solid street car that I could drive everyday if i wanted to. Before the car got parked it used to be dead reliable, I just plan to get it back to that condition and enjoy it.
Thanks ahead of time for any replies. I have some pictures of my trans cooler install from a question I asked a few months ago I need to dig them out and post them up to that thread.
Scott
26
« on: August 27 2012, 12:52:52 PM »
I was always under the impression that it did not. When I removed my transmission yesterday I found a drain plug in my converter. I had thought that it was a stock D5 this whole time.
27
« on: August 27 2012, 12:23:00 AM »
Once I got my replacement trans up in the car I dropped the pan and found this.  Their are no wires connected to the solenoids. I am going to pull out my factory manual tomorrow but I need some help. The trans is a 84-85 and my car is a 87. It looks like it has the two pressure switches that I need. I labeled them 1 and 2 in the picture can someone tell me which one is 3rd gear and which one is 4th? I need to buy the connector for those switches, and I need the 4 pin connector that passes through the case. Where can I get those, does anyone have part numbers or a source?
28
« on: August 11 2012, 12:53:16 PM »
I am sitting working on cleaning up my 87 WE4 from the mice that moved in. I am on to the seats. My front seats needed recovered before I parked the car, the rear seat was is ok condition. I have been trying to clean the seats but the foam smells like mouse real bad and the covers are only coming somewhere clean.
Any ideas how to clean the foam?
Where can I buy new foam and new covers?
29
« on: August 05 2012, 01:42:12 AM »
I need to install a trans cooler, and I am looking for pictures of other guys setups for ideas how to mount. I am going to buy a bar and plate style cooler, and want to install it in front of my condenser. I am not going to use the zip ties that go through the condensor so I am just looking for ideas for how to mount it. I am thinking about making some kind of brackets maybe out of aluminum strap.
I should also add I have seen pictures of where guys have installed them under the car and under the battery tray and such. I don't have a front mount and don't want to deal with wiring a fan right now, so I just want to put it up front.
Thanks
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