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Messages - blown1
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46
« on: March 30 2017, 12:31:12 PM »
yup, using support saddles on the roller rockers, but not on the stock rockers,
breaking bolts on the rollers,
putting pushrods thru the rocker on the stockers.
OH, I'm looking for ONE HD rocker shaft, the thick one, as I managed to break one,
today I'll be carefully taking the motor apart, to see where the screw up is. ( besides me)
I didn't think about the grade 8 bolts being fake, came from the local tru value hardware,
most of my bolts are from co called "Bolt Depot" online, now you have me thinking...... ...
going back to 206 hyd flat tappet cam from elgin.
I'll post up my results on disassembly .
47
« on: March 29 2017, 10:38:47 PM »
well. round 2 ( or 3 or4) pulled the motor today,
will slowly dissect it tomorrow,
but. ... new cam/lifters, springs will be here in 2 days,
cam is hyd ,flat tappet, ( quiet)
no idea why hyd roller is so noisy, but not any more! LOL
if you read this all post all the way to this end........... .
in 3-4 weeks I will have in my possession some highly desired wheels.
in 18x8 18x9 19x9.5 I not supposed to be letting the cat out of the bag.
but this is over 2yrs working and struggling to manufacture these.
they will not be cheap, as we have over $100k invested in these,
stay tuned for more info, LOL
48
« on: March 27 2017, 11:34:02 PM »
49
« on: March 27 2017, 07:08:27 PM »
I give up.
still noisier than I like, have to run valve cover spacers, and fiddle with them so rockers don't hit,
then bang! it breaks a rocker arm hold down bolt,
it gets better........ ..
fix that, start it, another bolt breaks,
these are grade 8 bolts,
so. I have decided its going back to hyd flat tappet, new springs,
I have no idea what going on, but don;t care at this point,
its close to being pushed into the corner and ignored for few months,
so.. I'm looking for 206 flat tappet cam , after this experience, I'd prefer NOT a comp cam,
cam, lifters, springs. head gaskets, Heck I'll even go back to stock type timing chain!
I get so pissed, then I go start the skyhawk ( same eng, 206 hyd flat tappet, ) and its quiet,
start instantly, idles perfectly,
screw this roller noisy crap!! why are these so noisy? GM makes a roller cam 3.8 that silent, are we,
the buick community, so ignorant , we can't make these quiet?
wow, I guess I'd better just shut up and go find a cold beer.
50
« on: March 22 2017, 11:23:20 PM »
still puzzled about all the breakage, rocker shaft, 3 push rods thru rocker arms.
could being loose valve adj cause all that?
had to go out and start it again, just to listen to the LACK of noise! LOL
now, if nothing breaks !!!!!!!!!
51
« on: March 22 2017, 05:08:40 PM »
well. been in the garage all morning and part of afternoon,
checking everything,
AND..... adjusted the valves. but this time I backed them off until they had clearance,
then added 1 & 1/2 turns!
when I started it up rattled until lifters pumped up, then got stupid quiet, (valve cover is OFF)
I started to laugh,
then did the other side, kinda feel dumb., but it would of been nice if T/A would of mentioned this.
I called a buddy (no names) who builds Buick motors, has a 8 sec turbo buick, and generally is upto date on
buicks. he was very surprised, and added he usually builds solid roller cam motors.
SO. I guess I'll cancel the new flat tappet cam and lifters , LOL
now. if it'll not breal anything , I'll be happy!
52
« on: March 22 2017, 11:59:13 AM »
sad part is, I was over board in checking proper alignment on the tip, adjusted the shaft spacers,
used blue dykem , and checked for spring to rocker interference.
alot of good that did,
53
« on: March 22 2017, 10:30:02 AM »
1st, many thanks for the input!!!
well, sounds like I should of cleaned the new lifter PRIOR to install,
oh well, whats "another " intake gasket, LOL
odd part is, after running total time of maybe 30 min, 2 or 3 lifters still have not pumped up,
in that I can depress the rocker with my finger, and feel the lifter depress,
but... what is causing the damage, (push rods thru the rocker, and rocker shaft to break)
54
« on: March 21 2017, 10:43:01 PM »
T/A -morel lifters, no didn't dissassemble em, using 10-30 dino oil, 60psi cold, 25 warm,
top end is well lubed, in that oil is pumping thru all rockers.
TT chip, and car fired with in 3 revolutions,
SO......... your telling me T/A lifters require alot of preload? I've been setting them at 1/2 turn
after rolling the push rod,and it gets tight.
oil sender is in brass block , by oil pump.
talk about frustrating!
55
« on: March 21 2017, 04:06:19 PM »
so I built and installed new engine in my 87 T,, basic 3.8, 30 over, forged pistons, oil pump blue print, TA grooved cam bearings, comp 206 roller, T/A lifters, and pushrods, pac springs (same specs as comp cams spec'd) shim head gaskets,
( GM orig ) ARP head bolts,
and......... started with stock rockers,, broke a shaft, up graded to HD rocker shafts, put a push rod thru a rocker.
alot of valve train noise!
installed T&D roller rockers, WOW is this thing noisy!,
I thought possibly coil bind, retainer bottoming out, valve hitting piston, so off came the heads, and installed lighter springs.
and checked every thing, no valve contact, no coil bind, no retainer hitting, .
so I installed them, and same noise.
I adjusted the valves again,
is it possible the lifters collapsed? or not pumped up? as I found I could push the rocker down by hand, (on some)
top end is getting plenty of oil,
I'm ready to walk away for a while,
56
« on: March 08 2017, 12:46:56 PM »
I have a Buick Motorsports crank, stock stroke,
it has been turned 10-10, mag'd /polished. internal balance.
ready to run,
residing in AZ.
$500, plus shipping.
cruzn57@yahoo.com
57
« on: February 03 2017, 05:05:45 PM »
old, like me!  and brittle, broke when touching them, all original, I bought the car from my neighbor, who bought it new, and that was about 20+ yrs ago, my we4 finally used more oil than it leaked, so it was time for new motor, problem was, took it apart, and can't remember where stuff goes, its together and running (after 6 mos) but still have some small issues, have brand new ac comp, dryer, recrimped the old ac lines at factory crimp , as they were so loose , they had to leak, went with 206 roller, (wow are TA hyd rollers noisy!) big intake valves, etc,etc, found a 911 converter (new in the box) stashed away in the garage, so in it went, haven't driven it yet ,as still hooking up scanmaster, exh temp gauge, and all the gauges I installed years ago , and never got working,LOL T60, alky, 009's, walbro, hot wire, moser axles, UMI lowers, and the list goes on............ .. so where are you now, Robert? what are you doing, I see Len frequently, and chat on facebook all the time with him,
58
« on: February 03 2017, 09:08:01 AM »
vac lines.... they do come out side by side,
ck valve, I have that one, and wondered where it went.
also have a single in/out ck valve, both on the bench, LOL
it the "map" sensor vac line just a direct connection? (intake to map sensor)
thanks for your help, been messing with these things for along time, but never got into
making heat/air things right, LOL
59
« on: February 02 2017, 10:42:28 PM »
mine are broken off by the a/c box, so.. what I under stand is.
one is a feed line, and the other is only under vac when the heat control is turned on.
don't have a fire wall mounted ck valve
( the three way one?)
60
« on: February 02 2017, 10:20:15 AM »
I have that diagram.
I have deleted egr, and fuel vapor canister.
my issue is two small hard lines from under the heater / fan housing.
and what line goes to heater water temp control? ( from where)
should any ck valves be in line to interior, either boost gauge or heater controls?
also , not using waste gate solenoid, using RJC valve,
Thanks
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