Topics

31

IHADAV8 Playground / We Still Brake (Break(?)) For Corvettes.

« on: February 12 2014, 07:31:07 PM »

Sinkhole Security Camera Footage

Sinkhole Collapse - Security Footage Video 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5FG9_mGWPo&list=PL5Syfif2eF-PwKw8EkYQ3hW12km1LzacC#t=149

Leaving the scene in a black Buick and wanted in questioning with connection to the event was this man:

32

IHADAV8 Playground / Planning for the End of the World...

« on: November 28 2013, 03:27:32 PM »

With the world getting weirder and weirder I have begun thinking about short term survival.
 
I am considering building a generator out of an internal combustion engine converted to run on natural gas.  The idea here is to have sufficient power to run my household during extended periods (ie. brown/black outs).
 
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of project?

33

General Buick Tech / A Good, Quick Read on VE % vs. Boost Pressure

« on: November 15 2013, 10:08:59 AM »

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37811

34

IHADAV8 Playground / Buick Skylark/GS/GSX Online Communities?

« on: October 16 2013, 08:38:03 AM »

Can anyone suggest a good source/forum for these cars?  Like many I am finding it hard to sell my Turbo Buick, so now I am thinking about potential trades - and I really want something with a 455, 4 speed and a posi (of course it would be a clone/hot rod).

eBay is slim pickings...

35

IHADAV8 Playground / Don't Say I Never Gave You Anything...

« on: September 03 2013, 09:32:54 PM »

http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html

36

IHADAV8 Playground / Further Confirmation Buick Engines Suck (without boost)

« on: September 02 2013, 08:22:31 AM »

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/HP2011-13/building-the-other-350-small-block-engine

350+ cubes, ported heads, big cam, higher compression etc... equals just 300 crank horsepower?

Wow.  That is crap

37

General Buick Tech / The All About My 1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon Thread...

« on: August 21 2013, 10:29:42 PM »

Yup, I am now a 100% certified wagon nut. 

Here are some pics from tonight's delivery all the way from Wichita, KS.  And believe it or not there isn't an engine or transmission in this car - damn it is low!  Overall it is very clean and should make for a great basis for a new project car: a family war wagon.

The plan as of right now:

Aluminum block LS-something, I want light weight.  It could be the LS1/4L60E out of Natasha's Camaro if it doesn't sell soon, or I'd prefer a 6.2L/6L80E combo with much lower mileage.  The LS1 would need some parts thrown at it to freshen it up (how much I won't know until I open it up) cam, springs, lifters, rocker arm trunnion upgrade, oil pump, and maybe new better flowing heads.  Originally I want to build a high-horsepower blown beast, but have since realized that would miss the purpose of the car - so I am going to exercise some restraint... for now. 

There is an advantage to using the Camaro for parts as it has everything I need to do a complete swap (less the motor mount brackets and some fuel system parts and fittings).  Plus, I can snag the disc brakes (front and rear), cruise control, A/C parts and so on.  The disadvantage is that I may end up stuck with a rolling chassis until someone comes to buy it.

Another downside is that I will always be limited to a 4LX0E transmission (or a standalone controller for another tranny = mega $$$) or a 6 speed manual conversion (which I truly want); the latter means Natasha has to learn to drive stick - which isn't a bad thing (at least until something doesn't go her way).  This also means that the rearend ratio has to remain conservative as I want good mileage out of this car - it currently has 3.73s in a 7.625" 10-bolt.

Currently the car is riding on what looks like a set of 15x7 and 15x5 set of Weld Rod Lites, and worn 255s and 205s respectively.  I think I'd like to keep these wheels for now IF I can fit them over the LS1 brakes.  I'd also like to go to at least a 275/60R15 in the back (295s would be cooler, but might bulge too much on the 7" wide wheel) and 195s up front for some pseudo big and little action.  However, I can still do a big tire and wheel combo if I want, as I have a set of C6 ZO6 wheels sitting in the garage - it just means more cutting in the rear (not that I am shy about cutting up a car to make an impression/point).

Exhaust is currently an aluminized crush bent dual 2.5" system with some Flowmasters, in relatively good condition -  it also has some electric cutouts built into it.  I figure this will be fine for now, but I am sure I'll end up building a dual stainless 3" system for it down the road.

Suspension is up in the air, and will probably be dictated by the tire and wheel combo.

Other than that it needs some minor cosmetic work (like tinting the rear hatch), and replacing some seals/weather stripping (although much of it is in great condition).

38

IHADAV8 Playground / John Force...

« on: August 20 2013, 08:11:57 PM »

Man this guy has had a shitty go of it lately: http://blogs.hotrod.com/john-force-losing-castrol-sponsorship-he-should-quit-racing-and-run-nhra-seriously-72493.html

http://blogs.hotrod.com/whats-wrong-with-courtney-forces-naked-photo-shoot-67979.html

Seriously though I think this guy is great.  He is definitely a great father to his daughters and has done everything to involve them in his life.

So I started doing some digging and found this neat thread showcasing his cars over the years: http://randyayersmodeling.com/modelingforum/viewtopic.php?p=627502&sid=fce0320afe374c1d54a63afdfd89ff5e

If this has been his final season it damn sure has been a blast to watch him.

39

General Buick Tech / How To: Fit Big Ass Tires & Rims on the Stock Frame

« on: August 09 2013, 06:09:23 PM »

I get asked a lot about how I fit 315/35R17s in the back of my Buick on an 17x11 wheel without modifying the frame. 

So to begin I will quote myself:

For starters I have no idea, or no working memory, of what the backspacing of my rims is (I think it was 5.5").

What I can tell you is the method to fitting the biggest rim possible, using a modular 3-pc rim; because every car is different the final section width of tire/wheel assembly is more important than wheel width alone.
 
 For starters you need to determine if your car's body is offset on the frame, every 1/16" is going to count against the final total.  Next you have to determine if the axle is centred under the frame again a 1/16" counts. You are going to want to measure from the axle to wheel mounting surface in toward the frame (A) and out toward the body at the wheel well (B). You are going to end up with A + B = C, C being the total available space for your tire/wheel combination, or what section width you can fit. You may find that the dimensions are equal, or limited on one side or the other.
 
 You now have to determine what amount of the total section width you want to (or can) fit between the axle flange and the frame. I recommend subtracting 3/8" for axle articulation from the furthest most inside point at the chassis/frame.  This will then translate into the physical backspacing on the wheel. If you have deep offset wheels like I did you can install long wheel studs and use washers to get a workable final dimension.
 
 I can tell you that when I was done I had to have two custom machined wheel spacers made to get the tire/wheel combo to fit just right. I think one was 3/8" and the other 5/16".  This is a painful procedure to go through - I hate math.

And now I will field questions as required in this thread.

40

IHADAV8 Playground / Getting Out of Turbo Buicks... aka Kicking the Habit

« on: June 30 2013, 09:47:25 PM »

I said I was fed up and I guess I meant it?

Earlier today my brother and I were joking about buying mid-70s GM wagons, and while we were doing our quicky web searches I came across something...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEMANS-WAGON-JUDGE-STREET-ROD-Roller-G-Body-Like-Chevy-Malibu-Buick-Olds-/121133511035?_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&forcev4exp=true

Since Tatiana showed up I wanted to have a real family hot rod with AC and lots of storage space (for the little rod I am going to build her).  More over I want something I can get on the road sooner rather than later.  I figure a boosted 6.2L LSX backed by a 6L80 or 90 should be sufficient...

The only stipulation from Natasha was something had to go. 

Well the Monte is a rust bucket (relatively speaking) and I don't have the time to fix it. So I am either going to slap it back together and sell it, or part it out.  The Buick is just not worth it anymore, and Natasha and I want to start a project Porsche so it is time to get out of it too.  Worst case scenario neither leave the house in one piece and I rape them for the best stuff to go under the wagon and cash out the rest of the parts.

The Camaro is also up for sale right now as we are planning on moving into a 2006 GTO.

41

Canada / For Sale: 2002 Camaro B4C

« on: June 28 2013, 12:46:31 PM »

http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=498753263

42

General Buick Tech / Run 10s for $23,000...

« on: June 14 2013, 05:24:32 PM »

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/ghtp_1301_2013_ford_mustang_gt500_killers/lc2_turbo_buick.html

43

IHADAV8 Playground / Riding Lawn Mowers

« on: May 21 2013, 01:11:49 PM »

Well it looks like my 5 year old WalMart special 22" self propelled B&S "Brute" is about to give up the ghost - so I have about a week to find a replacement to mow our flat 3/4 acre lot.
 
We have decided that a riding mower would be the best investment for the sake of time and money vs. replacing what we have with more of the same.
 
From what I have read I don't need a zero-turn unit.
 
What I believe I need is:
a) 42" cut
b) +/-20hp (I like the idea of a V-twin engine)
c) Robust design (which is adapable to a mulcher)
d) A good warranty (more than 1yr is preferred)
e) Ability to pull lawn accessories (ie. a rolling drum); and
f) Maybe the ability to run a snowblower attachment (because my driveway is 150' long).
 
I'd rather not spend more than $2000 (taxes in).

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

44

General Auto Tech / More "Zinc" in Oil Talk...

« on: May 08 2013, 09:09:43 AM »

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35731&start=30
 
I am trying to see if they have any info on the 5w50 "muscle car" and 0w30 "GC" oils.

45

General Auto Tech / Greenish Yellow Discharge... I mean deposit!

« on: April 19 2013, 09:39:20 PM »

What the hell is this green crap on the electrode?

The plugs are 42,000km (26,000 mile) NGK TR6s on the right, they came out of our 160,000km (100,000 mile) LS2, and the stock 118,000km (73,000 mile) Delco Platinums on the left.  Both plugs are out of the same cylinder (#7 - yes, I keep and number my plugs for future reference).  All eight NGKs look the same within a degree of each other.  Clearly something changed in the last two years (yes, there were modifications), I am leaning toward fuel.  We've almost exclusively used a single brand since moving up to Ottawa (some might call it a discount premium (91 octane)) and it may be the source of the discolouration .

There is nothing on these sites that gives me any indication of what I am looking at:

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_spark_plugs.htm
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3063102

The fuel trims are within spec (+/- 5%) and the timing has been adjusted to remove any knock retard.  There is the possibility the O2 sensors will need replacing soon as they are 6 years old (original) and the MAF needs cleaning which could explain the carbon tracing down the insulator; that and the plugs were left in 6,000miles too long so they may have degraded badly.

Thoughts?