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Messages - slojim
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« on: Today at 10:32:26 AM »
for all my plans of limiting $ until I can get it started, looks like I'm headed down that road. I took a hard look at the hanger/sender - it's serviceable, but there's rust up in the tube that I can't get to. So I'll be replacing that - looking like the racetronix 255 G7 sender assembly. My bigger problem is the tank. RockAuto has them for $165 shipped - but they have confirmed to me that they can't confirm I'll get what I order, and I'll be responsible for shipping back EVEN IF it isn't properly baffled. Lot's of people have them for $240 plus shipping. It looks like O-Reilly can get one today but it's in a warehouse so I can't look at it, Autozone has one an hour away, and PartCatalog in Austin has 10 on the shelf - and I may be driving to Austin in a few weeks anyway. I'm calling OReilly
For posterity sake - I'll note this here about fuel lines. I considered whether I should replace the rubber lines over the tank with SS braided teflon since the rubbers are out of stock currently, or even upsize the return line - and saw a lot of discussion on conductive vs non-conductive liners, and a lot of opinions on whether it was worth it or not based on experience or risk tolerance. But I looked up the manufacturer spec sheet, and they suggested it for applications over 2 meters/sec flow of flammable liquids. In a 5/16 ID line like AN6 sized, that is a hair over 340LPH - that explains to me why there are different experiences - most folks are not flowing that much, but many are.
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« on: April 23 2024, 04:53:07 PM »
and the results - look a lot like the before pics. as I said, the orange stain is gone, and I dumped out a lot of rust - covered the bottom easily of a 5 gallon bucket.
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« on: April 23 2024, 04:51:08 PM »
here's a pic of my electrolysis rig. My wife was super uncomfortable I'd electrocute the dog, so I only ran it 8 hours while I could keep an eye on it. I think I used a cup and a half of washing soda in the full gas tank. I did get orange goo coming up, and I did have to replace a little bit of water.
You can't see it, but I used an old steel edger blade, due for replacement, as my sacrificial anode.
I read about flash rust - holy cow - the edger blade rusted up in like 2 minutes, well before I even had the fuel tank drained. Anyway, once I emptied it, I fogged it with WD40.
It was a neat experiment/learning - but I can't call it succesful - I probably needed to go for 2 days.
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« on: April 23 2024, 04:42:04 PM »
here are some before pictures of my gas tank - the phone is upside down in the hole, facing 4 different directions - so your seeing the inner roof of the tank above the plastic baffle.
The last picture is looking down in - note, this orange baffle rust stain came out during electrolysis.
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« on: April 23 2024, 04:33:03 PM »
I've no intention right now of running E85 - I just figured the encapsulated windings would be a little more robust and the overall construction maybe a little more corrosion-resistant to regular gas. I considered a 340, and maybe the whole sender, but I'd have to run a return line, and I don't have injectors to take advantage of the extra gas. So for now, I'm probably just going to get the walbro 255, probably the kit off of FTS. The kit is 2x the bare pump, but all those little parts fell apart when I pulled the pump. It appears the correct gas tank is at rockauto, SPECTRA PREMIUM GM307C. My electrolysis experiment took out a lot of rust, but it visually looks the same with plenty of scale, so for <$230, I guess it's time for a new one.
I am sorely tempted to get a cheap fuel pump off of rockauto - they run from $11 to $50 generally with a full install kit minus the $5 sock - I just want to start the car and see what else is needed, and when highway stars has the short rubber fuel lines in stock I''ll want to drop the tank again and replace mine - but I wouldn't be comfortable driving with an under-rated pump.
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« on: April 18 2024, 04:36:59 PM »
Thanks. That place is on the north end, a pretty long haul for me, and considering I can get a new tank for $200 give or take, not the choice I'm making today. I called around me, no one seems to be interested in cleaning. That is ok, I'm excited to try hydrolysis and all I'm trying to do is get it started before I make bigger decisions.
Yep, I've got a pump from full throttle and from racetronix pulled up. I note the racetronix ones say they are e85 friendly, while the tpi/walbro ones do not. Seems likely they would be, but they call it out on their bigger models
I'll take some pictures. Finding tsp took 3 stops
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« on: April 17 2024, 09:56:23 PM »
Haven't started the gn in too long. I tried this week, but I didn't get any fuel. My tank has a little rust inside, not too bad. It's the original tank with the plastic baffle. I'm thinking of trying electrolysis inside the tank while I have it out. Anybody ever try that?
I need a new fuel pump. The old one was a walbro gss242, 190lph. They seem to be obsolete, I can upsize to a gss340gen3 or a racetronix 255lph. I have an fpr and a hot wire kit long installed. I've never touched the return line and I didn't think the 255lph size needs that. The sender is ok and I don't plan to replace anything extra until I know the car starts. Am I missing anything?
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« on: May 23 2012, 04:57:17 PM »
that was your bad rocker arm, right? Any chance something is still not right there and your exhaust valve isn't cycling in sequence?
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« on: May 20 2012, 09:15:31 PM »
well, I don't know why, but the brake light is coming on now like it should. I flushed the MC a few times and re-ran the PM motor, so I think I have clean fluid in there. I flushed only one brake line before the storms rolled in - rear passenger. I still have a motor that won't shut off and weak brakes, so I ordered rebuild service from rock-auto. It was right at $230 with master cyclinder, but they only had one left at that price - it was marked wholesale closeout. We'll see.
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« on: May 19 2012, 07:27:10 PM »
too late to help, but when you did your compression checks - did you remove just the plug for the cylinder you were working, or did you remove all 6? I wonder if pulling all 6 for the check might have isolated this sooner.
I posted a different question, so I figured I'd better keep things even try to help someone. So far, I can't. But since my car has sat as long as yours, a little empathy for your problem is as close as I can get.
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« on: May 19 2012, 07:11:55 PM »
GN's been sitting for 4 years since I moved to Indiana, and now I'm moving to Houston. (I just realized I'm 10 minutes from PTE, oh well). It started up fine and seems to run ok, but the powermaster won't shut off unless I unplug the motor, or unplug the grey brake switch. Both shut the motor down. The troubleshootin g guides I could find reference special GM tools. My brake light is not on. The pump pumps fluid out of the reservoir, and the levels seem to hold (or at least change slowly) when off. The switch seems to always read ~2.4ohms across all 3 pins, any combination. I would think if it were the switch, I'd get a brake light, so maybe its the motor. Before I do that, the fluid looks like crap, so I will flush it out. Any input? I need the brakes to work well enough to stop the car when I load it on the truck.
On second thought, I'm going to check the brake light also. That might explain why I don't line up with the troubleshootin g guides.
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