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Messages - IL KIM
31
« on: December 03 2020, 10:44:14 PM »
Thanks Earl! Then I’m done with the conversion:) Now to swap out the rubber Flex hoses with steel lines and bleed the corners.
32
« on: December 03 2020, 08:04:46 PM »
Does anyone know what the torque spec is for the brake pedal to bracket is? I’ve googled and search to no avail. Part of me says just snug up the pinch nut but thought I’d ask to be sure. Thanks.
33
« on: December 02 2020, 09:02:11 AM »
Thanks Earl. I did install an 86 engine assembly into my 85 GN around 1990 so it’s quite possible the EGR hose is not stock although I always thought it was OEM with the plastic union connecting the right angle to straight tube.
With the Repeated cycles of vacuum pulling through the PVC hose and boost conditions I was thinking some residual oil could end up eventually in the booster hose.
I will just get some 11/32 straight vacuum lines and put the tee up high basically replacing the 90 rubber bend, and then in the future get an aluminum vacuum block with extra port.
If anyone has a used vacuum block they want to sell, please let me know. I may post on TB site but can’t seem to be able to reset my password over there. Keeps saying an email was sent to me and I don’t get the mail.
Thanks all!
34
« on: December 01 2020, 07:47:19 PM »
Fuel rail shown.
Yes I share your thoughts Scoobum. I may look for that vacuum block but trying use the parts that came with the kit and understand where the tee was meant to go.
35
« on: December 01 2020, 07:39:22 PM »
Ha ha.
I measured and remeasured, as I like working upside down with my head in the carpet, while it snows outside. The booster rod has some play and gravity also pulls it down but the exact measurement I came up with for my exact cove-free car Is 1.0000” below the OEM pin! Actually I think It could be +/- a half inch and be ok.
Thanks for the help. Now where to put the frigging vacuum tee in the exact spot in the PVC line with the fuel rail being in the way of the perfect location, is next. The tee wants be be tight above the pvc but I’m not sure I want the booster source so low and close to the pvc valve (and not where I placed it in these 2 pics). I’ll figure it out.
36
« on: November 30 2020, 08:30:49 AM »
Thanks Steve. Great stuff from a software/electrical guru. Between this and recommendation from Earl’s PM to preinstall the pedal to verify hole location I think I will be good. Will report out afterwards. Love the knowledge this community has.
Interesting pics - the Pedal in GBody pic slightly different then my 85 GN pedal.
Did you mean to add article links on 1.25 to 1.5” distance or just show the jpg attached? I’d like to maintain pedal height if vacuum booster travel allows relative to Powermaster travel.
Thanks again.
37
« on: November 29 2020, 04:07:38 PM »
My motor is intermittent; sometimes the pump doesn’t suck the fluid down. I have the grey pressure switch so it ok. I think the wiring in the PM is acting up. Thanks though.
It’s a warm day into the 50’s here in Michigan so I finally started the conversion. I have the brake pedal out and not sure where to drill the new hole the the pin. 1-1/4” down but far from the edge of the Pedal and which edge? I can’t see any pics from the TurboBuick site to go with the directions. Anyone know or I’ll wait on pm sent to Earl...
I have the new booster installed and can work on bench bleeding the master cylinder For now.
Cheers and hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving given this pandemic.
38
« on: November 29 2020, 03:57:38 PM »
Happy belated birthday Steve. Thank’s for your help through the years!
39
« on: September 13 2020, 04:08:04 PM »
Received parts. Thanks for the fast shipment Earl. Now I have to git er done.
40
« on: September 08 2020, 09:01:46 AM »
Thanks Earl. I found your store and see you have some nice stuff including 1 remaining vacuum booster conversion kit. I will order both the lines and conversion kit please.
41
« on: September 06 2020, 11:58:05 AM »
Nice videos. You are going to town Scoobum. That foundation will be there a hundred years from now. 
42
« on: September 05 2020, 11:18:13 PM »
Sorry for delayed response. Been a little busy with moving kids into college. Hopefully won’t be moving them back home anytime soon.
Thanks Steve. I’ll look again or call Russell’s but did not see RWD Regals or our years on the link.
Earlbrown; no that was not me but what is your eBay seller name? I can peruse your store!
Thanks all.
43
« on: August 31 2020, 07:38:23 PM »
Thanks guys. Who is “Russell” please? The hydroboost system looked pretty straight forward but if there with no backup when a hose or steering pump goes, then potential disaster.
I’ll start looking into vacuum system now with all the input above before giving up on the Powermaster system that worked for me for 35 years. It would cost me $750 to get it rebuilt with little labor on my end.
Thanks everyone for your advice.
44
« on: August 26 2020, 03:03:03 PM »
Hey, another Avatar I recognize from the past. Thanks for your input Steve and Ed. I thought it might be the pressure switch but when I had the issue and I jiggled the connector and tried removing/reinserting, the motor still did not start up. Per diagnostics flow chart, if you disconnect the pressure switch and the light comes on, the system should be good. Intermittent electrical issues are the worst.
Is the vacuum or hydro-boost better (pros and cons) for reliability and function? I read the vacuum conversions may have issues with turbo cars running roller cams/rockers or more pedal apply is needed? Have not read up on what a hydro-boost system is.
45
« on: August 25 2020, 03:50:16 PM »
Hello. Trying to get 2 remaining issues resolved so I can enjoy driving my 85 GN again and looking for advise. One issue is the brakes. I searched through the Powermaster topics and don’t really want to go to vacuum brakes, but to get the PM system working.
Issue I am having is intermittentLy the PM motor will not turn on leaving the inboard reservoir full and hard brakes with brake light. I went through the PM Diagnostics from GNTYPE.org and ended up on step 2 where it took 13 seconds of motor running till brake light went off, I bought and replaced the accumulator ball as recommended. This did not solve my intermittent issue. The diag chart basically says if the ball didn’t work the get a now PM.
When the issue happened, I tried disconnecting the main harness connector and jiggling with no luck. I also tried jiggling the pressure switch connector and the motor did not turn on. However tapping the motor with an 8mm wrench made the motor turn on and suck the fluid down. Any advise out there before I buy a remanufactured one from Kirbans or from GBody where I got the accumulator ball?
I don’t know if I can take the black box apart to look at electrical connectors on the motor housing.
Thank you.
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