IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: SuperSix on May 04 2011, 09:16:52 PM
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So - I finally spent some time really looking at the car.
I started by making a list - it's one legal page long already. This is gonna be fun!
I will be asking a lot of questions, how I don't run anyone off. :D
Overall, it's not too bad, just a LOT of small repairs that I know will take time. It looks like he was going to remove the motor and trans - damn near everything is disconnected. I only found a few alarming things, mostly electrical.
First one is some wire damage right behind the RH cylinder head - in the harness that runs around it. I assume it was damaged when they put the motor back on after the rebuild. It had silicone on it, I found it after removing the silicone 'plug' covering it. From what I can tell - the wire isn't completely broken, just damaged. Looks like it would be a PITA to fix.
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/87gn/P1020010.jpg)
What connectors are these?
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/87gn/P1020013.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/87gn/P1020014.jpg)
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Ok, I think, I may know this one..I think in Picture #2, it looks like those connectors go together. Kind of hard to tell...maybe Cam Sensor?
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Ok, I think, I may know this one..I think in Picture #2, it looks like those connectors go together. Kind of hard to tell...maybe Cam Sensor?
No, the one in question is much smaller that the cam sensor plug, seen towards the bottom. I need to park my 87 T next to it and pop both hoods. :D
Honestly, I'm confused where to start.
I am thinking about removing all accessories and getting all of the wiring taken care of, new loom, etc.
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pic 2 looks like the alternator plug
pic 3 appears to be O2 sensor
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Ok, I think, I may know this one..I think in Picture #2, it looks like those connectors go together. Kind of hard to tell...maybe Cam Sensor?
No, the one in question is much smaller that the cam sensor plug, seen towards the bottom. I need to park my 87 T next to it and pop both hoods.
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You start one step at a time...look at the trees, not the forest.
Spending $15 for the shop manual on cd from Jeremy Wood will eliminate your wiring questions as well as give plenty of other help.
Being that you have another car, pull it over and check one against the other.....don't forget the ac compressor has a couple of connectors on the back as well as the clutch connector.
I would disconnect the fusible links from the starter and pull the harness up around the back of the head so you can get to the effed up spot and fix it....
Make sure the ground bundles on the back of the head are in good shape and not pulled loose or corroded. You can relocate them to an intake stud or put them on the firewall with a ground back to the engine....
Clean things up as you go.
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pic 2
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You start one step at a time...look at the trees, not the forest.
Spending $15 for the shop manual on cd from Jeremy Wood will eliminate your wiring questions as well as give plenty of other help.
Being that you have another car, pull it over and check one against the other.....don't forget the ac compressor has a couple of connectors on the back as well as the clutch connector.
I would disconnect the fusible links from the starter and pull the harness up around the back of the head so you can get to the effed up spot and fix it....
Make sure the ground bundles on the back of the head are in good shape and not pulled loose or corroded.
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If the wires are truely missing insulation get them puppies covered . . .
If it is the loom that is not there it serves two purposes, one to protect from chaffing and aesthetics.
AJ___
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the light purple single wire is the o2.
Here is a tip that might save you grief down the line...make sure the wiring harness behind the drivers side valve cover is supported up in the air. Often the "stand off" that bolts to the valve cover breaks and allows the harness to sag.
Inevitably it will find that screw sticking thru the firewall and it will start to saw thru the wiring bundle until it pops something that you don't want popped. As it is hard to see when the harness drops down, it can drive you crazy trying to find out why the fusible links have blown, or some other circuits.
Been down that road twice.
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the light purple single wire is the o2.
Here is a tip that might save you grief down the line...make sure the wiring harness behind the drivers side valve cover is supported up in the air.
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Mark-Did you find your misc body parts, bezels etc?
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Mark-Did
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OK - spent a few hours working on it today.
TO get clearance, I removed the coil back, coil pack bracket, fuel rail, trans/throttle cable assy, heater control valve and hoses. I fixed the exposed red wire - disassembled the wiring harness shrouds that guide the wiring around the back of the motor. The plastic piece is broken at the bend at the rear right - need to see if I can find one of those. I fixed the grounds on the rear left of the intake - 4 wires going into two lugs were missing ~1/2" of insulation. I cut them off, and replaced them. 2 wires > 1 8ga with a huge lug on the end. WAY overkill, but I don't want any ground issues. :D I noticed the fusible link wiring going to the starter was pretty beat up, removed and replaced the old electrical tape, and put a new section of loom on it. It's tucked down behind the head and ready to be installed. I don't have a starter - well get one when I get closer to actually needing one. I puled a shit ton of old nasty loom and tape off of the end of the harness, and the wiring branching out of the end of it - re-taped and replaced the brittle, old loom. Many of the Weatherpak connectors are broken - I used to have a Weatherpak connector kit I got from Casper's - of course I can't find it anywhere.
I remember Sylvan saying the knock sensor needed to be torqued, so I pulled it, cleaned the threads and hole as good as I could, and torqued it to 14ft/lbs.
So many bolts and fasteners are loose on this car. weird shit, like the engine hoist bracket, oil return tube, etc. Almost all of the bolts on and around the doghouse were finger tight or missing - I am going to have to put a socket or wrench on ever bolt I can get to. I really hope it's just the externals. To get in deeper, I took off the IC fan, and the 2 of the 3 internal bolts that hold the plastic to the stamped steel bracket that bolts to the balancer were loose. All of the water pump pulley bolts were cross threaded - looks like the wrong pitch bolts were used. Then I took out the thermostat housing - the housing hold down bracket hole in the manifold was stripped, and an oversized bolt was used. The thermo housing is trash too.So, I need to get a new waterpump, pulley bolts, thermostat housing, Oring, and re-tap the thermostat housing hold down hole in the manifold, unless I decide to replace the intake.
I replaced the Orings i the oil cooler lines, and reinstalled those.
86Natty has my turbo, and won't ship it - seems he can't be bothered to make the effort to ship it to me. Not sure why, not cool at all. Sylvan is working on it.
All in all, a good day - I am most worried about the fasteners. I need to go over EVERY detail and make sure it's all correct.
Is there a resource where I can get bolt sizes, lengths, thread counts, etc for these cars?
All in all, felt good to get something done on it! Fiancee wants to go for a ride. :)
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ungn on tb.com sells a cd with the bolt sizes, etc.
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Ed may have a copy as he always knows what size the bolts are
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ungn on tb.com sells a cd with the bolt sizes, etc.
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ungn on tb.com sells a cd with the bolt sizes, etc.
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I don't know if it has what you require but many pdf's are still on that site. I don't have them here. Dig a bit.
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http://perfauto.tripod.com/indexpage.pdf
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http://perfauto.tripod.com/indexpage.pdf
try using it
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http://perfauto.tripod.com/indexpage.pdf
try using it
It's working for me - I bookmarked it.
Thanks Dave -this will tide me over until I get the disc. I supposed I could download all the pages - PITA though.
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Remind me, i think I did it already...
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strange..gives me an index but no pages with info when you click on a link...guess you all got the touch!
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Got it today - well worth the money.
Has the Illustrated parts catalog, the TR service manual, and some other cool stuff.
:supz:
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Better laid out than Jeremy's CD?
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Better laid out than Jeremy's CD?
Similar - it includes Jeremy's too.
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Started getting in most of the parts I needed.. Wife isn't too tickled about all the boxes in the living room (Mail woman isn't either having to lug all the boxes to the front door). Moved the parts out to the garage and started working. Since I had to get a used lower intake (most of the bolt holes in the old one were stripped), I started working on that. Cleaning sensors, installing them, etc. New PCV grommet was a hoot to get installed. I got a little bonkers with the rattle can, cleaning and painting quite a few things. Autozone had Rustoleum low gloss engine enamel on sale - stocked up on a few cans. Degreased everything I planned to paint, and roughed them up wit some sandpaper and steel wool. GOt a little orange peel, but not an excessive amount. Disassembled almost everything I could, cleaned and reassembled. Reinstalled the RJC power plate with the correct amount of gaskets, used trial and error to get all of the bolt setups correct, I am using as many of the stainless bolts for the Alloy Botlz kit as I can, (Yes, I am using anti seize :p) I like the results so far. Fixed the oil drain tube, most of the work was done on the bench today.
Doghose came out good, I taped the fins on top, cut the excess with a few razor blades, sprayed a few coats, and removed the tape.
Intake with sensors, new thermostat neck, painted retainer, etc. (Tasty Cheez-Its in the background)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020060.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020066.jpg)
Fuel rail and coil pack / ICM bracket freshly painted and installed (Mostly mock up to get the fastener layout correct)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020067.jpg)
Damn near complete, sans injectors and harness - will install those after intake is installed. Painted hard vacuum lines, and I had to install my "Sequential Fuel Injection" V6 medallion on the doghouse - every TR I have owned has has that. :D I get them at the bone yard off of >85 NA FWD Buicks.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020069.jpg)
Not sure why I did this - but painted the new ACDelco water pump.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020070.jpg)
Hard coolant lines and turbo mounting bracket got a few coats...
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020071.jpg)
Sexy.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020072.jpg)
Sprayed the cross member and block, where I could. Cross member,motor mounts, etc were bare steel with slight surface rust - no oil buildup. I don't expect the paint to last - remember, this is going to be far from a show car.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020073.jpg)
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Looks nice...!!
helicoil the bolt holes and avoid a lifetime of misery
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The new intake is fine. It was the old one that had all the stripped holes. Only good for scrap.
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why was it good for scrap? unless it was broken, helicoils would make it better/stronger than new
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I swear, I warned you about not using the factory shop manual torque ratings on the intake...but, I don't see it...instead use 30-35 ft lbs unless you like stripped threads and/or broken bolts
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I swear, I warned you about not using the factory shop manual torque ratings on the intake...but, I don't see it...instead use 30-35 ft lbs unless you like stripped threads and/or broken bolts
:rofl;
You did - in the head gasket thread. Heehee.
One question - I have the stainless intake bolt kit, and would like to use them - how would the use of those bolts and the required ant-seize affect the torque settings?
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it will not have any affect other than they may be a bit softer than the normal...not sure on that...
Just stay close to 30 and it will all be good...
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Tore into the 2 turbos I have - the PT51 with the shaft wobble of death, and the TA49 I bought. I needed the turbo mounting bracket off of the PT51, the TA49 didn't come with one.
I found a lot of rust, flaking rust when I took off the TA49 exhaust housing, anything to be worried about? Can I use the PT51 exhaust housing on the balance of the TA49? Assuming I can get out the bolt I broke. :mad:
Pics of rust in TA49 exhaust housing: (Make sure to scroll down and see the delights of the PT51's exhaust wheel. and how the painting of the valve covers turned out)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020082.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020084.jpg)
PT51 exh housing
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020085.jpg)
Housings side by side:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020086.jpg)
Good thing I got the TA49, and won't be using the PT51:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020081.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020080.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020077.jpg)
Valve covers came out nice!
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020087.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020088.jpg)
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with a stock converter, I would use the 49 exhaust housing..clean it up and see how it goes.
Remember when it was said the 51 was the good turbo? That is the typical problem they had.
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Valve covers look nice. 51 exhaust wheel is toast! Housing should be OK just clean out all of the rust.
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I think I did the valve covers the hard way. I cleaned, sanded, cleaned again - then used painter's tape on the ribs, cut away the excess with a few razor blades, sprayed on 3 coats, then puled of the tape. Saw some guy's thread on TB.com - sprayed all of them, then sanded the new paint off. Oh well - they came out great.
Dropped another $100.00 at RockAuto too. Got a new Reinz intake gasket coming in, rubber valve cover gaskets, etc, so forth.
That reminds me - I need to place that order for the Permatex gasket sealant. :)
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local stores should have it
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Nah - I got it and some other Permatex stuff from Amazon - free shipping, will be here Tuesday.
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FINALLY got shipping confirmation on the DP I bought - 3" THDP - $300.00 shipped.
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that is a good deal
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I made the mistake of making up a spreadsheet of what I have spent so far. Well, not too bad - up to about 6k with the car and transport. Not finished yet, but *most* of the high dollar parts are paid for, and 75% received.
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If you could find a $6K car it would likely still need a few K's to fix.
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Far from over - lots of small parts - spent 200.00 today. :(
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w00t!
THDP finally showed up. 1st shitty seller on TB.com so far.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/2011-07-06094833.jpg)
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<boner>
Motor is OUT. Had to get crafty with the hoist - the boom wasn't near as long as it needed to be to get it out from the front. I was contemplating removing the bumper, header panel, front support, etc - then decided it would be best to do a bit of Googling. I ended up having to take the left front wheel off to get the hoist close enough, then run the chain out of the end of the boom, not out of the bottom. With a tiny bit of persuasion with a pry bar, she popped loose. I had gone to Harbor Freight to get an engine stand - but don't have any bolts long enough to mount the motor to it. I will get some bolts from Home Depot tomorrow.
Got the info I needed from this thread:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/279719-pulling-engine.html#post2452200 (http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/279719-pulling-engine.html#post2452200)
Same hoist, and same engine stand. :)
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Well, got the motor on the stand today.
Pulled the heads and oil pan. Not as bad as I thought it might be, but it was definitely worth me pulling it to check it out.
#3 main bearing is bad, and the crank journal is scratched. The others look OK to me. Crank has been cut .010 already, not sure if it needs a polish or to be cut again. Isn't .020 pushing it? The thrust bearing surface looked great - I guess that's a positive thing. :icon_confused:
I have pulled 3 rod caps, they look OK. I did the fingernail test on them, there's a few scratches in them - so I guess I need to get the crank cut. I need to ask Julio Don who he can recommend for a machine shop around here.
The head gaskets looked OK. A few cylinders had pushed the orings out a bit, doesn't look like any were broken. I am pretty sure it was an RJC HG kit - I see remnants of silicone. I can't tell f the valve springs have been replaced - so I plan to get the machine shop to deck the heads, and I will put new springs in too. Are the LT1 springs good with a 202/202 cam? Apparently it's an older Poston cam.
The cylinder walls look good, #2 (front right) has some rust/pitting, not sure if it's that bad though.
Please take a look at the pics - let me know if you need a hi-res of any of them.
I am kinda bummed - I really hoped the bottom end would be fine, I guess not. :x
Overhead shot (note scratch on #3)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020164.jpg)
Main caps:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020173.jpg)
Main caps again:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020174.jpg)
Thrust bearings:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020176.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020177.jpg)
Scratched #3 Journal:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020195.jpg)
Close up of #3 main bearing cap bearing (I haven't pulled the crank yet to get to the top one)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020199.jpg)
Rear main:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020196.jpg)
Front main:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020197.jpg)
#2:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020198.jpg)
Right Cylinders:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020179.jpg)
Left Cylinders:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020180.jpg)
Cylinder #2:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020184.jpg)
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Looks like stock replacement gaskets like felpro to me. As far as the main bearing, I've seen it on the Buick V6 quite often myself. Even though it's frowned on I still enlarge the oiling holes for the mains some to help out on the number 3 bearing. I've got 1 crank out of a 4.1 that failed on #3 and took both rod bearings out to the point I use the crank for an anchor.
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Not too bad looking from here. Only a machine shop can really tell how round the journals are.
I have no problem whatsoever going as much as 0.030" under. I have seen more than one ten second car running 30 under cranks..you could make an argument that such is better due to reduced bearing speed. I normally like about .0015" clearance on a street engine both for rods and mains
Oops, I left a zero out...Thanks Dave! Corrected above
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Pistons are .030 over...hopeful ly just a scuff with the "black balls" for the new rings to seat. Have the big ends on the rods checked for size...cuz if they're "tight"...you'll spin a rod bearing on startup...no sense taking a chance. Grumpy has cracked the 9's with a 20/20 crank...and I pound the shit out of my current engine with a 20/30 crank...so no worries there. Have the mains checked for size as well. You don't have to do this...but...h ave the rotating assembly balanced...you won't believe how smooth the engine revs out.
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Looks like stock replacement gaskets like felpro to me. As far as the main bearing, I've seen it on the Buick V6 quite often myself. Even though it's frowned on I still enlarge the oiling holes for the mains some to help out on the number 3 bearing. I've got 1 crank out of a 4.1 that failed on #3 and took both rod bearings out to the point I use the crank for an anchor.
They make be stock or FelPro - but there's silicone holding them on. I pulled a few pieces off. In one of the cylinder pics, you can see some hanging down into a cylinder. Which is odd, because it looks like some of the pressure rings were pushed out a bit. I am starting to think they were new gaskets, and somehow when the head was torqued, it pushed them out a bit. The silicone I did pull out was right along the top of the cylinder wall. No way that would have survived even a few firings. That - and the pistons are too clean to have been fired.
Not too bad looking from here. Only a machine shop can really tell how round the journals are.
I have no problem whatsoever going as much as 0.030" under. I have seen more than one ten second car running 30 under cranks..you could make an argument that such is better due to reduced bearing speed. I normally like about .015" clearance on a street engine both for rods and mains
Good info. I need to find a good machine shop. Turns out Don Cruz is local, and I hear he does that type of work.
Pistons are .030 over...hopeful ly just a scuff with the "black balls" for the new rings to seat. Have the big ends on the rods checked for size...cuz if they're "tight"...you'll spin a rod bearing on startup...no sense taking a chance. Grumpy has cracked the 9's with a 20/20 crank...and I pound the shit out of my current engine with a 20/30 crank...so no worries there. Have the mains checked for size as well. You don't have to do this...but...h ave the rotating assembly balanced...you won't believe how smooth the engine revs out.
More great info. I hadn't planned to pull the pistons and re-ring - but shit - I might as well, right?
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What is the reason for the 2 little notches in the pistons? Is that just to indicate orientation?
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What is the reason for the 2 little notches in the pistons? Is that just to indicate orientation?
Orientation... correct. I'm old and my eyes are just about shot...but I think I can still see crosshatch marks on the cylinder walls...so this engine likely has fairly low miles on it.
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Looks like stock replacement gaskets like felpro to me. As far as the main bearing, I've seen it on the Buick V6 quite often myself. Even though it's frowned on I still eLooks like stock replacement gaskets like felpro to me. As far as the main bearing, I've seen it on the Buick V6 quite often myself. Even though it's frowned on I still enlarge the oiling holes for the mains some to help out on the number 3 bearing. I've got 1 crank out of a 4.1 that failed on #3 and took both rod bearings out to the point I use the crank for an anchor.
They make be stock or FelPro - but there's silicone holding them on. I pulled a few pieces off. In one of the cylinder pics, you can see some hanging down into a cylinder. Which is odd, because it looks like some of the pressure rings were pushed out a bit. I am starting to think they were new gaskets, and somehow when the head was torqued, it pushed them out a bit. The silicone I did pull out was right along the top of the cylinder wall. No way that would have survived even a few firings. That - and the pistons are too clean to have been fired.
Not too bad looking from here. Only a machine shop can really tell how round the journals are.
I have no problem whatsoever going as much as 0.030" under. I have seen more than one ten second car running 30 under cranks..you could make an argument that such is better due to reduced bearing speed. I normally like about .015" clearance on a street engine both for rods and mains
Good info. I need to find a good machine shop. Turns out Don Cruz is local, and I hear he does that type of work.
Pistons are .030 over...hopeful ly just a scuff with the "black balls" for the new rings to seat. Have the big ends on the rods checked for size...cuz if they're "tight"...you'll spin a rod bearing on startup...no sense taking a chance. Grumpy has cracked the 9's with a 20/20 crank...and I pound the shit out of my current engine with a 20/30 crank...so no worries there. Have the mains checked for size as well. You don't have to do this...but...h ave the rotating assembly balanced...you won't believe how smooth the engine revs out.
More great info. I hadn't planned to pull the pistons and re-ring - but shit - I might as well, right?
nlarge the oiling holes for the mains some to help out on the number 3 bearing. I've got 1 crank out of a 4.1 that failed on #3 and took both rod bearings out to the point I use the crank for an anchor.
They make be stock or FelPro - but there's silicone holding them on. I pulled a few pieces off. In one of the cylinder pics, you can see some hanging down into a cylinder. Which is odd, because it looks like some of the pressure rings were pushed out a bit. I am starting to think they were new gaskets, and somehow when the head was torqued, it pushed them out a bit. The silicone I did pull out was right along the top of the cylinder wall. No way that would have survived even a few firings. That - and the pistons are too clean to have been fired.
Not too bad looking from here. Only a machine shop can really tell how round the journals are.
I have no problem whatsoever going as much as 0.030" under. I have seen more than one ten second car running 30 under cranks..you could make an argument that such is better due to reduced bearing speed. I normally like about .015" clearance on a street engine both for rods and mains
Good info. I need to find a good machine shop. Turns out Don Cruz is local, and I hear he does that type of work.
Pistons are .030 over...hopeful ly just a scuff with the "black balls" for the new rings to seat. Have the big ends on the rods checked for size...cuz if they're "tight"...you'll spin a rod bearing on startup...no sense taking a chance. Grumpy has cracked the 9's with a 20/20 crank...and I pound the shit out of my current engine with a 20/30 crank...so no worries there. Have the mains checked for size as well. You don't have to do this...but...h ave the rotating assembly balanced...you won't believe how smooth the engine revs out.
More great info. I hadn't planned to pull the pistons and re-ring - but shit - I might as well, right?
see my correction above... 0.0015" on the rods and mains
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Update - 08/14
Took the rest of the block apart toady - Here's all of the pics:
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/ (http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/)
If you see anything out of whack in the pics - please let me know.
Of course, some questions. :)
All of the lifters looked goo, one or two had some vertical scratches, most showed signs of spinning in the bore, which is good. I didn't see any noticeable wear on the tappets.
Is this a normal lobe wear pattern?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020243.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020242.jpg)
Front cover and timing chain look new - is this basically a stock replacement chain set? Is that a double roller? If so, should the tensioner be used?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020202.jpg)
All of the cylinders look good, I can't see a cross hatch though. #2 is the one that has the rusty area - and the piston looks rough. Looks to *me* like it shouldn't be a huge issue, a hone and cleaning should fix it up. Block is 030 over, don't think I can cut much more...
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020238.jpg)
That lighter area isn't a ridge..
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020228.jpg)
Cam bearings look kind of suspect - Is it normal for the front bearing to get a ridge in the middle where the cam oil channel is? I might have dicked up the others removing the cam. :(
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020235.jpg)
Bottom of #1 crank journal had damage, just like the top. :013:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020211.jpg)
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Yes, that's a double roller. It looks like you can get away with using the tentioner as it's smooth on the outside. That chain has a lot of slack in it too. That means the timing set has "stretched" or the block was incorrectly line bored and the crank moved up too far. I'd really investigate that before going back together.
The front cam bearing is beat up pretty bad and I noticed some smearing on the mains. Does that engine have real stiff valve springs and have you measured the clearances in that chinese front cover yet?
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Yes, that's a double roller. It looks like you can get away with using the tentioner as it's smooth on the outside. That chain has a lot of slack in it too. That means the timing set has "stretched" or the block was incorrectly line bored and the crank moved up too far. I'd really investigate that before going back together.
The front cam bearing is beat up pretty bad and I noticed some smearing on the mains. Does that engine have real stiff valve springs and have you measured the clearances in that chinese front cover yet?
EARL!!!
I'm not sure about the springs yet - I read somewhere that they are aftermarket. They have the stock-looking shrouds on them though. If the crank had oved forward, wouldn't the thrust bearing be beat up?
No, I haven't measured the clearances. Ugh. I was hoping it was just a really clean GM cover. Is it odd to have the marks on the cam button given that it's a roller?
Funny - I was thinking about getting in touch with you to see about getting a front cover from you.
Just took a closer look at the cam - #3 exhaust lobe has damage at the top. Fuck! It's a Poston GN110T cam.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020246.jpg)
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The thrust bearing would have to be beat up to let the crank move forward. I was talking about pic you posted showing the upper main #1. Material has been smeared on the front half and covered that portion on the oil hole.
With clearances tighter than .002 there's no room for material transfer like that and getting away with it.
Hey I see my oral sex smily made it over here too! :tongue
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Hehe. Yep - it sure did. Been here for years. :tongue :tongue
I was referring to your comment about the chain stretching - you said it can happen when the crank walks - If the thrust bearing surfaces show very little wear, then one can assume that the chain just stretched?
Can you still buy factory camshafts? Or am I worrying too much about that mark on the lobe? :shrug:
The previous owner thought he had a GN107T cam, it's stamped GN110T.
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I was talking about the chain slop potentially being a result of improper line boring. If the machinist takes off too much meat, the crank centerline will move up in the block closer to the cam. The solution is to buy a "shorter" timing set.
It could be that the timing set is just worn out though. The only way to know for sure is to measure and see what's been done to that block.
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I was talking about the chain slop potentially being a result of improper line boring. If the machinist takes off too much meat, the crank centerline will move up in the block closer to the cam. The solution is to buy a "shorter" timing set.
It could be that the timing set is just worn out though. The only way to know for sure is to measure and see what's been done to that block.
Got it.
I am considering having someone so the short block for me..
I take it you're not a big fan of the Chinese front covers? ;)
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Looks like a cheap chain to me...there is seldom justification for a double roller on our cars as we simply do not run enuf spring pressure to need one...after all, a well maintained factory engine will generally make well over 100,000 miles on the factory chain and eventually succumbs to heat and age. I bought one car that had the original changed at 168,000 miles. Some posted a link to a TAPerformance single roller that looked good.
As far as the cam goes, I would use the 208 degree cams that Licht sells, or one of the Lunati style cams if they are still available. Seems like they were around 205 degs. And, someone will post the wonders of the Edelbrock or Sealed Power Cams that are about 204 on the intake duration. Nothing magic about cams as long as the duration does not get too long...speakin g of the average street engine.
I am not averse to using Joe Gibbs break in oil for the first 1000 miles.
Earl's cover would be a mandatory purchase if I were to build a new engine....you don't know what you are going to get with a new chinese cover.
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Looks like a cheap chain to me...there is seldom justification for a double roller on our cars as we simply do not run enuf spring pressure to need one...after all, a well maintained factory engine will generally make well over 100,000 miles on the factory chain and eventually succumbs to heat and age. I bought one car that had the original changed at 168,000 miles. Some posted a link to a TAPerformance single roller that looked good.
As far as the cam goes, I would use the 208 degree cams that Licht sells, or one of the Lunati style cams if they are still available. Seems like they were around 205 degs. And, someone will post the wonders of the Edelbrock or Sealed Power Cams that are about 204 on the intake duration. Nothing magic about cams as long as the duration does not get too long...speakin g of the average street engine.
I am not averse to using Joe Gibbs break in oil for the first 1000 miles.
Earl's cover would be a mandatory purchase if I were to build a new engine....you don't know what you are going to get with a new chinese cover.
Am I correct to be concerned with that funky lobe? The one next to it (#4 ex?) has a little damage too)
Ok, so this:
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU208CAM+eq++Tp+ (http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU208CAM+eq++Tp+)
12 of these:
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU969+eq++Tp+ (http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU969+eq++Tp+)
What about springs? Like I said - I think the old ones are aftermarket -
These?
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+105980-12+eq++Tp+ (http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+105980-12+eq++Tp+)
This:
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1521 (http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1521)
Earl - how much for a pimpin' front cover?
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And I have a brand new KB booster plate kit, if that matters.
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List looks good. Those are likely Comp lifters...they can be noisy. I've used 'em...no issues. Same for the springs...used 'em...no issues. Grab one of Earls front covers. Break in is critical for the cam/lifters.
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I thought TA had the best "stock" lifters?
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cam looks like a cheap casting to me...I would be nervous about using it. Noisy lifters often set off the knock sensor...I would not use them
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cam looks like a cheap casting to me...I would be nervous about using it. Noisy lifters often set off the knock sensor...I would not use them
Which cam? mine or the one I linked?
Are these the lifters you are talking about Dave?
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1405 (http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1405)
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Picture of the Postons cam
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Seems this is the closest to the stock cam:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=212866 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=212866)
CS-792 cam, & H969 lifters.
Yet more $$$. Fuck.
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my first choice remains the 208
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Are these the lifters you are talking about Dave?
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1405 (http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1405)
Yes
Can't find the thread I really wanted but here is somebody who uses them
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/97003-comp-cam-lifter-fails-500miles.html (http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/97003-comp-cam-lifter-fails-500miles.html)
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my first choice remains the 208
Ok, so this is the one then.
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU208CAM+eq++Tp+ (http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU208CAM+eq++Tp+)
And the lifters he sells are the Sealed power 969 models I have seen good things about.
Not sure about the TA lifters, still researching.
Thanks.
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Well, found a machine shop with the help of Jack DiLorenzo - Hope to drop the parts off this weekend (or soon)
Here's what I sent as what *I* think I need:
Check/polish/cut crank. It's .010 already.
Check the block, including the cylinders, check head area for flat (Plan on using Victor Reinz stock replacement gaskets)
Check rod ends for true
Line bore if needed
I don't think I need new pistons, maybe not even rings - cheap to replace if need be, I guess.
Heads:
Check and see if valve job is needed.
New springs for basically a stock replacement cam, probably this one:
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU208CAM+eq++Tp (http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+001BU208CAM+eq++Tp)+ with the Sealed Power 969 lifters
New valve seals
Evaluate cost for:
Port the heads
Install larger valves.
assemble short block
Nice run by JD (Jack DiLorenzo)
http://youtu.be/jl1l8ZBh6WU (http://youtu.be/jl1l8ZBh6WU)
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I am dropping the motor parts off at the machine shop on Friday - wish me luck!
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I am dropping the motor parts off at the machine shop on Friday - wish me luck!
Don't believe in luck.
Believe in causality, you will find it is better.
AJ___
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I am dropping the motor parts off at the machine shop on Friday - wish me luck!
Don't believe in luck.
Believe in causality, you will find it is better.
AJ___
Yea, neither do I.. :(
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Dropped the block, crank, piston assemblies and heads today. He said the crank looked pretty good - we shall see. Gave an estimate of ~2 weeks for the work, longer if it needs to be line honed/bored. I have at least a month's worth of shit to get done with the motor out, so it should be just fine.
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Checking the main saddles only takes a few minutes. If the block hasn't been overheated or seen some extreme boost pressures...th en it should be fine.
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Checking the main saddles only takes a few minutes. If the block hasn't been overheated or seen some extreme boost pressures...th en it should be fine.
It looks like the front cam bearing and front crank bearings are the only ones with damage. I think the parts will be OK. Both the block and the heads are going to get milled, I hope I don't have issues with the intake fitting. We will see.
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It should only take a few thou to clean up the heads and block. You shouldn't have an issue with the intake.
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I'm having him assemble the short block (minus putting on the heads)
He's going to go through the heads too. Turns out he has 2 GNs - one is a 10.90 car - hopefully it's in good hands.
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You'll be fine. I drive 5 hours one way to have my engines built...and the gentleman has been using the same machine shop for 25 years...and he's been running 10.30's with his GN forever.
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:icon_super:
It
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Hmmm.. The "new" crank looks to be a bit more oil stained:
Old:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Short%20block%200814/P1020244.jpg)
New:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/Machined%20Block/P1020272.jpg)
Makes me want to pull a main and see what size the bearings are...
Paranoid?
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Leave well enough alone. :icon_smile:
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Looks good. Thanksgiving day off might be a wrenching day?
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Looks good. Thanksgiving day off might be a wrenching day?
I will put in a day or two here soon..
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Looks good...now take it to the track and trash it.
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Got the needed parts ordered. I thought I had everything, I don't.
Ordered a 208/208 cam, lifters and Rollmaster timing chain from Full Throttle SPeed.
Ordered GM head gaskets and front crank seal from NOS4GN
Ordered motor mounts and front cover gasket set from Rock Auto
I had purchased a NOS GM front cover, after Earl told me mine was Chinese shit, I am off to port and prep that today.
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If you ordered the Comp Cam lifters...you mite find 'em a tad noisy. What brand is the 208/208 cam FT sells?
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If you ordered the Comp Cam lifters...you mite find 'em a tad noisy. What brand is the 208/208 cam FT sells?
No idea what brand the cam or lifters are.From what I read - the lifters they sell aren't the "clicky" ones..
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I've got Comp Cam lifters in this current engine between the frame rails...and I've been pounding the snot outta it for 2 years now. When we swapped intakes on it a couple weeks back I checked the lifters...and they appear to be wearing normally.
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Got the needed parts ordered. I thought I had everything, I don't.
Ordered a 208/208 cam, lifters and Rollmaster timing chain from Full Throttle SPeed.
Ordered GM head gaskets and front crank seal from NOS4GN
Ordered motor mounts and front cover gasket set from Rock Auto
I had purchased a NOS GM front cover, after Earl told me mine was Chinese shit, I am off to port and prep that today.
Got the front cover ported - Pics below.
Seems there was some sort of booster plate on the motor - I can't ID it. I don't want to use it, per earl and Steve's recommendation - but that means I now have to source shorter bolts for the housing.
Anyone know who made this?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020326.jpg)
Porting pics:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020291.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020292.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020293.jpg)
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Got the needed parts ordered. I thought I had everything, I don't.
Ordered a 208/208 cam, lifters and Rollmaster timing chain from Full Throttle SPeed.
Ordered GM head gaskets and front crank seal from NOS4GN
Ordered motor mounts and front cover gasket set from Rock Auto
I had purchased a NOS GM front cover, after Earl told me mine was Chinese shit, I am off to port and prep that today.
Got the front cover ported - Pics below.
Seems there was some sort of booster plate on the motor - I can't ID it. I don't want to use it, per earl and Steve's recommendation - but that means I now have to source shorter bolts for the housing.
Anyone know who made this?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020326.jpg)
Porting pics:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020291.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020292.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020293.jpg)
Got the front cover ported - Pics below.
Seems there was some sort of booster plate on the motor - I can't ID it. I don't want to use it, per earl and Steve's recommendation - but that means I now have to source shorter bolts for the housing.
Anyone know who made this?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020326.jpg)
Porting pics:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020291.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020292.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020293.jpg)
Got the needed parts ordered. I thought I had everything, I don't.
Ordered a 208/208 cam, lifters and Rollmaster timing chain from Full Throttle SPeed.
Ordered GM head gaskets and front crank seal from NOS4GN
Ordered motor mounts and front cover gasket set from Rock Auto
I had purchased a NOS GM front cover, after Earl told me mine was Chinese shit, I am off to port and prep that today.
Got the front cover ported - Pics below.
Seems there was some sort of booster plate on the motor - I can't ID it. I don't want to use it, per earl and Steve's recommendation - but that means I now have to source shorter bolts for the housing.
Anyone know who made this?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020326.jpg)
Porting pics:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020291.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020292.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020293.jpg)
The booster plate is probably a Melling.
Home Depot for the bolts.
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Do you know the correct length I need? I would rather not cut the bolts...
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It's a Sealed Power (Melling?) Oil pump repair plate. Not sure why they used it - the cover wasn't scored much at all.
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,8,partnum,224518TP,d,SEALED_POWER_224518TP.html (http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,8,partnum,224518TP,d,SEALED_POWER_224518TP.html)
Wow.. Part image fail: http://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Power-224518TP-Pump-Repair/dp/compatibility-chart/B000CPJKN6 (http://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Power-224518TP-Pump-Repair/dp/compatibility-chart/B000CPJKN6)
5-6 sites have a pic of a brake line. Dumbasses.
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It's used to "repair" the pump when you're to lazy to smooth the adapter. Very common to use them in the industry. Before you go shopping for new bolts see how far they'll screw in. You may not need new ones.
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Got it.
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You need (5) 1/4-20 X 1" and (1) 1/4-20 X 1-1-1/2.
And of course, there's a trick. You'll noticed the long bolts you have are small headed bolts with a built in washer. A normal 1/4 bolt will have a head too big to actuate with a wrench or a socket.
or you could just get one of my pimp ass SS socket head cap screw timing cover kits and be done with it :)
(http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/attachments/buick-v6-turbo-tech/44113d1264303480-day-life-earl-im002580.jpg)
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You need (5) 1/4-20 X 1" and (1) 1/4-20 X 1-1-1/2.
And of course, there's a trick. You'll noticed the long bolts you have are small headed bolts with a built in washer. A normal 1/4 bolt will have a head too big to actuate with a wrench or a socket.
or you could just get one of my pimp ass SS socket head cap screw timing cover kits and be done with it :)
Pimp that ass Earl. :O :icon_lol:
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It's all about the pimp, Charlie
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It's all about the pimp, Charlie
You and my nephew would get along great Earl. LOL :O
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The clearances were good, not great.
Drive gear side clearance - .0035 - good
End clearance - .007 - a bit over
Gear height .871 and .872
Gear pocket diameter - 1.673 - good
The gaskets, as close as I could measure them are:
FelPro - .0075 and the KB booster plate gasket is .008.
I have a new FelPro gasket set coming in today, I assume the gasket will be the same thickness.
What do you recommend I do to get the recommended .002 - .0025 clearance?
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Do you sell the "pimp-ass" cover bolt kits? :D
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You need (5) 1/4-20 X 1" and (1) 1/4-20 X 1-1-1/2.
And of course, there's a trick. You'll noticed the long bolts you have are small headed bolts with a built in washer. A normal 1/4 bolt will have a head too big to actuate with a wrench or a socket....or you could just get one of my pimp ass SS socket head cap screw timing cover kits and be done with it :)
Careful about using SS socket head screws with Aluminum parts.
Galvanic reaction can lock them in so they won't come out.
Maybe some Loctite 240?
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You need (5) 1/4-20 X 1" and (1) 1/4-20 X 1-1-1/2.
And of course, there's a trick. You'll noticed the long bolts you have are small headed bolts with a built in washer. A normal 1/4 bolt will have a head too big to actuate with a wrench or a socket....or you could just get one of my pimp ass SS socket head cap screw timing cover kits and be done with it :)
Careful about using SS socket head screws with Aluminum parts.
Galvanic reaction can lock them in so they won't come out.
Maybe some Loctite 240?
Anti seize won't work? I use it on all dissimilar metal assemblies.
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I do too. Seems good so far.
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Anti seize won't work? I use it on all dissimilar metal assemblies.
*Maybe*.
The problem is you want to avoid any metal to metal contact or at least minimize it.
Most Anti Seize grades use metal in them [Copper,Nickel,etc.].
Liquid Teflon seems to work [Loctite 567].
The GM thread goop seems to be a mix of 567 and 290 [IIRC .. the high strength blue stuff].
It comes out of the bottle baby blue....242,IIRC.
I think the Permatex version is 24240.
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the gasket out of the felpro gasket kit should be .006 to .0065. You need to tighten up that end clearance before putting that unit into service
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the gasket out of the felpro gasket kit should be .006 to .0065. You need to tighten up that end clearance before putting that unit into service
How do I get that clearance down? From what I see, the oly way it taller gears, or getting the cover machined.
What do you think about these gears? The wear on the top, and nicks on the sides concerns me. Looks like some trash may have gone through the pump at one time. Should I replace theses gears? Is the wear causing the high end clearance?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020313-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020318-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020317-1.jpg)
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Your gears are the right height. How are you measuring end clearance (and have you made SURE there are no boogers or dings on the mating surfaces or around the tapped holes)?
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Your gears are the right height. How are you measuring end clearance (and have you made SURE there are no boogers or dings on the mating surfaces or around the tapped holes)?
I am using my caliper as a straightedge - I printed out your instructions and Steve's, and am following them closely.
Using a set of KD Tools feeler gauges, I am putting the straight edge over the top of the gears and measuring that way. I made sure to pull the gears out, clean both them and the gear pockets really good too.
BUT - I am using a Harbor Freight digital caliper...
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how are out of the hole are your gears?
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how are out of the hole are your gears?
I don't understand..
-
how far above the rim are your gears?
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how far above the rim are your gears?
.0007 oops. It's .007
I measured it like in the bottom graphic: (Figure 23)
(http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/oilpump2a.jpg)
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did you mean to type .007"? If so, you're going to be fine. If you're at .0007" your cover might be a goner.
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did you mean to type .007"? If so, you're going to be fine. If you're at .0007" your cover might be a goner.
No.. .007
And it's a brand new AC Delco cover - better not be trash. :)
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Those gears look serviceable to you?
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You need (5) 1/4-20 X 1" and (1) 1/4-20 X 1-1-1/2.
And of course, there's a trick. You'll noticed the long bolts you have are small headed bolts with a built in washer. A normal 1/4 bolt will have a head too big to actuate with a wrench or a socket.
or you could just get one of my pimp ass SS socket head cap screw timing cover kits and be done with it :)
Is the bolt length indicated the total length? Or just the threaded part to the bolt shoulder?
Either way, I'm pretty sure these are the pump repair bolts - the short ones are 1.459" overall, 1,245" from end to shoulder, and the long one is 1.713 overall, 1.493 to the shoulder.
I guess I could cut these - I doubt I will. I will probably get the Allen head SS ones from Alloy Boltz..
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Bolts are measured from the tip of the threaded section to the area where the head and the shaft join together Mark.
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I looked at the alloy boltz webpage. I don't think their kits come with the filter adapter bolts.
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Mark, can you take a pic of the oil pump cover from the side that covers the gears...I don't have that on my site
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Bolts are measured from the tip of the threaded section to the area where the head and the shaft join together Mark.
The ony excepion being flat heads (countersunk) which are measured end to end (dunno why)
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I looked at the alloy boltz webpage. I don't think their kits come with the filter adapter bolts.
I got them at Home Depot this afternoon, of all places - .82c ea. Stainless Allen head.
I have one of the Alloy Boltz kits, and you are correct, it does not have the oil pump bolts.
I picked up some wet or dry 600grit to do some more work on the lower oil pump housing - is that going to be fine enough?
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Mark, can you take a pic of the oil pump cover from the side that covers the gears...I don't have that on my site
Like this?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020306.jpg)
Or this?
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020304.jpg)
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thanks...that will do!
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Those gears look serviceable to you?
New cover, old gears? With the amount of work you are doing, replacing the gears is a good insurance policy. I don't like the wear pattern on the edge of the gears.
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Those gears look serviceable to you?
New cover, old gears? With the amount of work you are doing, replacing the gears is a good insurance policy. I don't like the wear pattern on the edge of the gears.
Those gears are junk.
Get a new set and MAKE SURE you debur the tops and bottoms of the gear teeth.
I believe they're broached and do tend to have a burr due to the cutting process.
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thanks...that will do!
I just spent ~30 minutes with it, a can of WD-40, and 2 sheets of 600 wet/dry sandpaper - it looks much better now.
I realized that the bolts need washers - modified 2 washers for the pocket bolts - used regular ones on the other bolts. After putting it all together for a test fit - the gears wouldn't turn - looks like I will need to find a thicker gasket.
Those gears look serviceable to you?
New cover, old gears? With the amount of work you are doing, replacing the gears is a good insurance policy. I don't like the wear pattern on the edge of the gears.
Those gears look serviceable to you?
New cover, old gears? With the amount of work you are doing, replacing the gears is a good insurance policy. I don't like the wear pattern on the edge of the gears.
Those gears are junk.
Get a new set and MAKE SURE you debur the tops and bottoms of the gear teeth.
I believe they're broached and do tend to have a burr due to the cutting process.
You guys are right. The standard Sealed power kit should work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed+Power/844/224-518/10002/-1# (http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed+Power/844/224-518/10002/-1#)
Odd, Jeg's is almost $5.00 cheaper than Rock Auto...
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looks right to me
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The cooler adapter feels buttery smooth. Surface looks rough when zoomed in though. :)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020331.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020327.jpg)
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Are there reasons you would want to replace that casting?
nos4gn:
(http://www.nos4gn.com/media/07/a20791c12a90c3be7c4fc5_m.JPG)
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I don't see any reason to replace it. I may be wrong though.
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There's no reason to replace the adapter unless you have to.
That being said look VERY closely at the area around the oval hole. From your pictures it looks like your paper might have curled up and took a little extra. That's the pressure feed for the engine. If that's low you might end up with a undercarriage anti-rust agent.
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There's no reason to replace the adapter unless you have to.
That being said look VERY closely at the area around the oval hole. From your pictures it looks like your paper might have curled up and took a little extra. That's the pressure feed for the engine. If that's low you might end up with a undercarriage anti-rust agent.
Hmm.. Not sure how it would have curled, I taped the paper to the glass, used WD-40, etc.
Here's the full size pics - look OK?
http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020327.jpg (http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020327.jpg)
http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020328.jpg (http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020328.jpg)
http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020329.jpg (http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020329.jpg)
http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020330.jpg (http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020330.jpg)
http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020331.jpg (http://www.ihadav8.com/images/P1020331.jpg)
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thanks...that will do!
I just spent ~30 minutes with it, a can of WD-40, and 2 sheets of 600 wet/dry sandpaper - it looks much better now.
I realized that the bolts need washers - modified 2 washers for the pocket bolts - used regular ones on the other bolts. After putting it all together for a test fit - the gears wouldn't turn - looks like I will need to find a thicker gasket.
Those gears look serviceable to you?
New cover, old gears? With the amount of work you are doing, replacing the gears is a good insurance policy. I don't like the wear pattern on the edge of the gears.
Those gears look serviceable to you?
New cover, old gears? With the amount of work you are doing, replacing the gears is a good insurance policy. I don't like the wear pattern on the edge of the gears.
Those gears are junk.
Get a new set and MAKE SURE you debur the tops and bottoms of the gear teeth.
I believe they're broached and do tend to have a burr due to the cutting process.
You guys are right. The standard Sealed power kit should work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed+Power/844/224-518/10002/-1# (http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed+Power/844/224-518/10002/-1#)
Odd, Jeg's is almost $5.00 cheaper than Rock Auto...
Ordered the oil pump kit from Amazon - Love the Prime shipping. :)
Should be here today..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7NAWG/ref=oh_o00_s02_i00_details (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7NAWG/ref=oh_o00_s02_i00_details)
(http://images.autopartsway.com/productimages/SLP/224-518_ANG.jpg)
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Got a lot done today - took this week off to get some thing knocked out. That - and it's dead-ass slow this time of year for my industry.
First thing I did was re-torque the heads per Steve's recommendation .
I got the front cover installed, made sure to gasket match the gasket - I cut a decent amount of gasket off at the oil ports, the water ports matched up pretty good, and needed minimal trimming. made sure to use thread sealer on all but the two blind bottom bolts. I used as many stainless fasteners as I could from the bolt kit I bought - overall, I would give the kit a c+, there's some bolts missing, and the long bolt on the water pump was too short once I used the flat and locking washer. I had to use the old one. One of the 5 small WP bolts was missing too - you will see in the pics I also used an old one there. I stripped out the very top water pump bolt, luckily I can use a bolt and nut in that location. I may tap it out and use a larger SS bolt. I forgot to put red Loctite on the dam crank bolt until AFTER I hammered it down :x - had to get creative to get the bolt back off so I could put some on it. I used blue Loctite for the bottom pulley bolts.
The intake went on without a hitch - used anti-seize since I used the SS intake manifold bolts that came with the kit. I made sure to put a thin smear of RTV around the water jackets, and used the Permatex aviation gasket sealer around the intake ports. Do I need to re-torque the intake like the heads? :hmm
Got the driveshaft done - replaced the very worn yoke with a new one, and some heavy duty U joints. Took forever to melt that plastic shit out - cleaned up the remains of the plastic, and slammed the cups in. Came out nice. I will take it to get it balanced before I put it in though.
And of course - lots of pics. The valve covers are just sitting on the motor now - I won't install those for good until I get the motor int he car.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000056.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000057.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000058.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000059.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000060.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000061.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000062.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000063.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000064.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000065.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000066.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000067.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000068.jpg)
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Nice.Very pretty.
Looks like a motorized engine stand.(pic 1 and 3)
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I wondered how they sold the bolt kits so cheap... Those long bolts are freakin pricy. I made my kits with SS socket head cap screws and they added up quick! I was starting to feel bad about wanting $100 for mine.
On that top water pump bolt, you're probably OK. It's actually a large metric fastener. It seems like it's 8mm. I'll have to dig out my bolt kit notes to make sure.
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I wondered how they sold the bolt kits so cheap... Those long bolts are freakin pricy. I made my kits with SS socket head cap screws and they added up quick! I was starting to feel bad about wanting $100 for mine.
On that top water pump bolt, you're probably OK. It's actually a large metric fastener. It seems like it's 8mm. I'll have to dig out my bolt kit notes to make sure.
It was only about 1/8" - 1/4" short, just sloppy.
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Worked on it some more yesterday - small pain in the ass problems popping up, I knew it was too easy so far. :p
New PCV grommet kicked my ass - after looking, I had the wrong one - seems Kirban and Gbodysucks.com sells the correct one. I am waiting for a PM core credit from Dennis - I will order it from him. I have the correct PCV, just couldn't get it in the manifold, and tore the Standard parts replacement I had. I should have installed it when I had the manifold out. Hindsight.. etc.so forth.
Went to install the flexplate - three or four of the teeth are buggered - I am ordering a new CAT unit from Full Throttle today.
I forgot to put the turbo drain tube when I had good access - PITA, but it's in now.
Got the accessory bracket and tensioner mounted, temp gauge sender mounted - I need to make a trip to Home Depot to get some brass fittings to get the oil pressure sender mounted.
Pics!
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020366.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020367.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020378.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020364.jpg)
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Looks awesome Mark, but if that is a Suzuki I don't think it can tow it.
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Got quite a bit more done today.
installed:
Throttle cable bracket
Alternator
A/C compressor
Oil pan (After grinding/sanding off 3 layers of really poorly applied paint)
motor mounts
Starter / heat shield
Temporarily installed the fuel rail / FP regulator - not going to install it until i get the new PVC grommet and PCV installed.
The EGR is going bye-bye, I ordered a block off plate when I ordered the new flywheel..
Mocked up the driver's side header to see how SS bolt kit worked - turned out nice. I can't figure how to get the dipstick installed, didn't spend much time trying to figure it out though. I think I have the gasket backwards in the pic.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020388.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020379.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020380.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020381.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020382.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020384.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020385.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020386.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020387.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020389.jpg)
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Thanks for the level of photographic detail.
Got one sitting on a stand I need to address one day....
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While access is easy (giggity) it would be a good time to fab up a starter strap.
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While access is easy (giggity) it would be a good time to fab up a starter strap.
/me is stupid
What's a starter strap?
I am probably going to order a mini starter (NOT a Powerbastard one), I need CHarlie to get me the details.
Rolled her out in the sun for a few pics..
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000073.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000074.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000075.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000076.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000077.jpg)
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Send me an email Mark. I can send you some links or you can get the gear reduction one I've had sitting here for 4 years now. Car's still not back together and I can get another one it's closer to being finished.
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The valve covers are just too cool.
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Thank you sir!
All the black painted items except for the block, heads and oil pan are Rustoleum low gloss black engine enamel. The silver-looking painted parts are Rustoleum flat aluminum high heat engine enamel.
The block and heads are how they came from the builder (In hindsight, I should have painted them with the low gloss too), and I picked up a can of black semi-gloss by accident, so I used that on the oil pan.
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While access is easy (giggity) it would be a good time to fab up a starter strap.
/me is stupid
What's a starter strap?
Looks like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-1957-CHEVY-STARTER-MOTOR-SUPPORT-BRACKET-NEW-/130617689380?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e696bc524 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-1957-CHEVY-STARTER-MOTOR-SUPPORT-BRACKET-NEW-/130617689380?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e696bc524)
Except it's only a strap of metal and doesn't cost $15. It runs from the stud on your starter motor up to the block.
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Ahhh. Got it.
none of you momos can find anything I did wrong? :D
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If you go with one of the mini starters I sent links to you won't need to do that Mark.
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share your links! Might help someone else down the line
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Looks good Mark.
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Here you go Steve. We've been using the 3HP version gear reduction ones and have had only 1 failure in the last 5 or so years. We use them on high compression engines and they work well to spin them over.
http://stores.ebay.com/Gearhead-Enterprises/High-Torque-Starters-/_i.html?_fsub=17336149 (http://stores.ebay.com/Gearhead-Enterprises/High-Torque-Starters-/_i.html?_fsub=17336149)
http://stores.ebay.com/whiteperformance1/Starters-/_i.html?_fsub=1388919017 (http://stores.ebay.com/whiteperformance1/Starters-/_i.html?_fsub=1388919017)
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I am going to pass on the mini starter right now. I can't justify the $$$.
I am now pulling all the brackets/etc from the engine compartment to paint them - plan on pressure washing the engine bay this weekend.
Then it's on to tidying up the wiring harness - and re-rerouting the fusible links away from the starter. I need to place that Casper's order.
I read that you can get rid of the charcoal canister. And avoid gas smells by putting a small gas filter on the end? Is that true? Any other tips?
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why would you want to get rid of the cannister? filters will not stop vapor, they stop larger particulates
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why would you want to get rid of the cannister? filters will not stop vapor, they stop larger particulates
I want it out of the way. I have an old ATR relocation kit on the T, maybe I need to either steal it or fabricate a bracket to relocate it under the fender cover.
here's some pics of it relocated in the 87 T.
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might be time to replace the charcoal?
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Spent a good bit of time on the beast yesterday.
I started cleaning.prepp ing the engine compartment for paint. Tagged, bagged, etc. Soaked it with purple degreaser, then pressure washed everything. Once it was dry, I painted the front frame (and any visible rust) with a rust converting primer.
Ended up replacing the center drag link, Pittman arm, inner and outer tie rod ends, and new sleeves. I will do the bushings and ball joints at a later date. The front sway bar and poly bushings will be later too.
Put in the Jeep steering shaft I had. That was a PITA - it was fully compressed when I got it, probably to save shipping space. For some reason, it didn't want to extend easily, so I had to use a BFH and pry bar - but I got it in, save for some hammer marks on the lower shaft.
I painted the top of the core support, testing blacks. I used semi gloss, not sure if I care for it. Most of the other black parts on the motor and such are low-gloss. In the pics I painted the middle section of the firewall with semi-gloss too for testing purposes.
Prepped/sanded/painted a bunch of brackets. (Cruise control, PS reservoir bracket, shift linkage, PS side relay bracket)
Cleaned/refurbed hood latch.
I noticed quite a few wire/line holes drilled in the firewall under the steering column - I need to address those (pics below)
I need to take out the brake booster - previous owner pinched both the cruise control cable and windshield washer fluid hose behind the booster. Derp. I have a newer booster and master cylinder I will be putting in, I can't trust the installed parts.
I ordered the AN fittings and braided hose so I can fab up transmission cooler lines - should be here this week.
And of course, pics:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020452.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020453.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020454.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020455.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020456.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020457.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020458.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020459.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020460.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020461.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020462.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020463.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020464.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020465.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020466.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020467.jpg)
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Damn! that was a lot of work! I should import you to help me out. My body is in rebellion after taking the winter off to play Skyrim
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So much to do, but damn it felt good to put in a good day on it.
I need to stretch/relocate the fusible links (Need to place that damn order with Caper's I've been putting off) prime/paint the rest of the engine bay, inspect/retape the harness, replace 2-3 weatherpak connectors, etc.
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Damn! that was a lot of work! I should import you to help me out. My body is in rebellion after taking the winter off to play Skyrim
Texas has winter?
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Your AC condenser looks like it went through WWIII.
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Your AC condenser looks like it went through WWIII.
Yeah - not sure why I didn't just take it out, I'm getting a new one anyway.
Hitting it with the pressure washer spray didn't help. :p
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Damn! that was a lot of work! I should import you to help me out. My body is in rebellion after taking the winter off to play Skyrim
Texas has winter?
Not much of one this year, but, I like the shop to be at least 65 before I go out...Yesterda y, it was freakin hot
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Got more done today..
Removed the A/C condenser and old trans cooler. Cleaned a shit ton of leaves off of the front rubber mat/air guide.
Prepped and painted the PS inside fender. I used an adhesion promoter primer, and the low-gloss black engine enamel I have been using on everything else. Ran out of paint. :(
Still kind of a test - but I really like the way the low gloss came out. And I see my garage camera's shutters didn't open all the way. Dammit
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020481.jpg)
Here you can see the sheen difference between the low gloss (fender) and semi gloss (core support).
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020478.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020474.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1020477.jpg)
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Looks good to me...you gonna have that thing come alive, yet!
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Quit being anal...drop the damn engine in.
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You said "Anal"
:tongue
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You said "Anal"
:tongue
Bout time you chimed in.
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lol.
I think that the low gloss looks good!
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Quit being anal...drop the damn engine in.
Yeah - but I'll never have this car this much apart, I'm not in any real hurry, and I like tinkering with it. It won't be too much longer before the motor is in - I have a goal, and I'm kind of on schedule. Fuckin mosquitoes and bugs really suck though. I will have a full, enclosed air conditioned garage next house I move to.
Fiddled with it some more the past few nights..
I had a broken relay, where it mounts to the side rail. Nothing a little silicone can't fix.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000003.jpg)
Painted/cleaned/re-assembled:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000004.jpg)
Old heatshield I have had kicking around the spare parts pile for many years, I figure it can't hurt:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000006.jpg)
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I clean a little bit more of my engine compartment every time I have the engine out. New exhaust studs and bolts...you've got issues. Keep the pics comin'.
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I clean a little bit more of my engine compartment every time I have the engine out. New exhaust studs and bolts...you've got issues. Keep the pics comin'.
Bah - the exhaust hardware was part of that 79.00 stainless bolt kit I bought.
I do wonder though - when I am wire brushing small screws and painting them.. Haha
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Is that what that is supposed to look like? Nice
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000004.jpg)
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Is that what that is supposed to look like? Nice
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000004.jpg)
Yeah - all painted.
Got the fuseable link relocation started - got some marine 10ga wire, snipped off the old fusible links, and extended the wiring. I crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk the connections - should be fine. all 5 power leads will snake around the bottom of the AC/heater box, then to new fusible links, to a junction box, with a master 4ga to the battery.
I need to order the 4ga - may use some to replace the alternator feed too.
I finished up lubing the new front end parts. I threw away both of my Harbor Freight grease guns (they SUCK), picked up a pneumatic Campbell Hausfield for $19.99 shipped. Works like a champ. Still gets air bubbles, but it's easier to bleed the air out.
painted a bunch more crap - it's coming along!
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Got some work done yesterday - PITA stuff, but I need to do it.
Removed brake booster and master cylinder.
I have a new booster/MC assembly I will put back on once I finish painting the engine compartment.
I worked on the wiring harness, wrapped, and covered in loom. Still a lot of work to do, i need to order some replacement connectors - temp sensor, MAF connector, etc. Prior owner wasn't too keen on being careful with the weatherpak connectors. :x
Sanded, and cleaned up the wiper arms - taped them off, painted the rest of the back firewall, i need to put 1-2 more coats on it.
Goddamn garage cam lens didn't open all the way again. Fuck, I need to remember to check that. :x
Disassembled, sanded, and painted firewall:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000009.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000013.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000015.jpg)
Completed HVAC blower and airbox. I used clear engine enamel on it, and semi gloss on the blower - of course, some loom and zip ties added:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000010.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000016.jpg)
Wiring:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000011.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000012.jpg)
Previous owner drilled a bunch of holes for gauge wires, boost/vacuum line, etc. I need to clean this up. I don't have a welder, or know how to weld, so I and thinking of JB Welding a small patch panel over these holes, and drilling one proper, grommeted hole for all wires/lines/etc. (Boost, oil pressure gauge, etc)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000014.jpg)
Any suggestions on how to repair this, short of welding in a patch panel?
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Since you do not have a welder then another way is need.
Ok; so what you need to do is clean the metal up, make your patch panel to cover that area to your liking.
Then go and get some panel adhesive and fasten it. You can put some seam sealer around the edges if you did not make a nice job with the adhesive.
Then prep for paint and carry on.
AJ___
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Wait till ya' blow a head gasket(s)...and all your work will go for not. Looks real purdy to this point tho.
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I'd dimple those holes in a good 1/4"...and then fill 'em...but not quite flush with premixed fiberglass...s hort strand. Use bondo to fill the last 1/16". Paint it...and you'll never know they were there.
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Wait till ya' blow a head gasket(s)...and all your work will go for not. Looks real purdy to this point tho.
I understand that - but this thing really needed to be cleaned. There's this fine SE USA red/brown duct on EVERYTHING. The car spent almost all of it's time in TX / AZ / etc..
I have never had a TR so apart, so I like cleaning, prepping and painting various surfaces. Sure - some will get nicked, etc if/when I pop a head gasket - but until then, it will look great.
I'd dimple those holes in a good 1/4"...and then fill 'em...but not quite flush with premixed fiberglass...s hort strand. Use bondo to fill the last 1/16". Paint it...and you'll never know they were there.
Good idea - I didn't even think of using fiberglass and Bondo. :icon_redface:
Thanks!
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I also want to reseal the factory grommets for the speedo cable, throttle cable, parking brake cable etc..
I guess I should have done that before I painted around them, I assume that whatever sealant i use would be better on an unpainted surface.
Can I just use silicone? Or should I use panel adhesive/seam sealer?
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Oh, and I tore the shit out of the booster > firewall gasket. i assume I can piece it together if need be - are these still available to buy new?
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I've never looked close enuf to see if the grommets have sealer around 'em. I'd think they'd fit in snugly and wouldn't need any. Not sure if you can get the gasket or not. Mite check with GBODY or Glen at Highway Stars. Could you not use the old gasket as a template to make a new one?
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I've never looked close enuf to see if the grommets have sealer around 'em. I'd think they'd fit in snugly and wouldn't need any. Not sure if you can get the gasket or not. Mite check with GBODY or Glen at Highway Stars. Could you not use the old gasket as a template to make a new one?
Yea - they do have some sort of mastic - it's white.
Thanks
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I also want to reseal the factory grommets for the speedo cable, throttle cable, parking brake cable etc..
I guess I should have done that before I painted around them, I assume that whatever sealant i use would be better on an unpainted surface.
Can I just use silicone? Or should I use panel adhesive/seam sealer?
Silicone should not be used on metal connections as it is corrosive, RTV as most call it uses acetic acid which will eat metals, now having said that I know we use some types to seal mains intake valley's etc but you should be using the correct RTV for that job. The engine has enough pores in the castings to have a film of oil there at all times and reduces the acid action.
On the fire wall, it will eat it away,
Urethane is good and cheap; plus you can warm it up in the tube to be able to make a fine bead out the end of the tube. You do need to prep the metal when using urethane.
Panel adhesive is superior and stronger and non corrosive, would be my first choice. If I did not have a welder.
The best thing to use to seal around the grommets is butyl rubber you can buy it at any auto supply store. Messy to work with but made for metal contact sealing, but remains ply-able over the years. You could use urethane to seal around the grommets, just make super sure they are where you want them and only use as much as need to create a film there.
AJ___
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RTV is Radio-TV silicone which is supposed to be non corrosive to electronics.
The non RTV Silicones you need to watch out for.
Neutral-Cure is best.
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RTV is Radio-TV silicone which is supposed to be non corrosive to electronics.
The non RTV Silicones you need to watch out for.
Neutral-Cure is best.
RTV = room temperature vulcanization
RTV-2 is different stuff again most people have never heard of it and it is a potting etc material.
I am not a chemist and she is busy from what I hear. So anything more than the what the stuff does and is used for is all I know.
Just trying to help out, back to mu hole. :atbeer:
AJ___
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You are correct. RTV-2 is the friendly closer to neutral cure stuff.
I musta pulled that radio-tv urban legend outa my azzz...
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Still chipping away at it - decided to stop being so anal about everything and just get it back together.
I had pulled out the wiper motor to paint behind it, today I got it ready to reinstall. One of the screws holding the black cover on was broken (of course), and it was on near the connector, close to two spring steel tangs that pass a signal from the wiper motor body to the cover, so I had no choice but to drill it out and replace the screw with a nut and bolt. The washer motor was locked up, so I took it apart, fixed it, and put it back together again. Prepped and painted it - it looks great now.
I painted the wiper arm, prepped and painted the replacement brake booster, and bench bled the master cylinder. The booster and M/C should be back in tomorrow.
I installed a new high-pressure power steering line from NOS4GN - great part.
Prepped and painted the radiator hold down - it's ready to go, installed the cruise servo, and power steering reservoir and bracket, and put most of the heater box brackets/parts back in. (All were pulled for paint long ago)
Feels good to be working on her - I plan to keep plugging away!
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Glad to see it Mark. I got my car up off the ground in preperation of changing the frame. I've been dreading that part. :icon_redface:
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I got overwhelmed with all of the work to be done. I am just taking it one day at a time now.
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I got overwhelmed with all of the work to be done. I am just taking it one day at a time now.
I know the feeling. Every time I turn around it's something else. Since the car fell on me I really don't like getting under it at all but it's got to be done one way or another. Now that I can see the under side of the car there's some surface rust that I hadn't expected but no major rust that I ca see with the frame still in her.
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I've been poking around and putting on a few good hours on the car.
The wife is excited - she came out and said "Are you putting things back In?" She was very happy.
More and more cleaning, prepping and painting. Need to find a good location for my homemade fusible link relocation.
New 12ga fuse links
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000039.jpg)
Mock up:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000045.jpg)
Harness is getting there.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000041.jpg)
More harness pics:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000026.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000027.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000033.jpg)
I noticed the cleaned hood latch assy was starting to rust, so I pulled it out, prepped, primed, and painted it.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000042.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000048.jpg)
I noticed that almost all of the nuts and bolts that hold the piece that joins the front clip and radiator support are missing. I have a bag of correct black phosphate replacements. But - the piece looks like shit - seems someone had chemically stripped the car, and let the stripper run down in between the body panels. I can't see a way to get that piece out without taking off the front clip. I may have to, if someone forgot the 5 bolts and 2 nuts where it's easy access, I can't imagine that the rest of the fasteners are there, or correct. Many of the hood hinge bolts are missing, and the hood is completely out of alignment, like someone just slapped the hood on with a few bolts for transport. Hmmm.. Again, I have replacements, but that means I get to adjust/position the hood. Bleah..
Front edge of hood:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000040.jpg)
Where do these clips go? I know the larger on is for a wiring harness..
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000035.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000034.jpg)
New overall pic (All painted - just dirty)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000046.jpg)
Wiper motor rebuilt, painted, installed.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000044.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000043.jpg)
This is the stupid shit I do that takes time. I even painted the driver's side relays. :icon_evil:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000036.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000037.jpg)
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Dug into the front suspension today. I expect to have the motor in relatively soon, so I needed to get the front suspension done while I still have great access.
It was relatively uneventful - one thing I noticed was that the right-hand inboard brake pad was installed wrong, and only about 70% of the pad was contacting the rotor. :rolleyes;
How does one install a brake pad wrong? Anyway...
Car has ~135k on it, and the stock ball joints are still in there, and I think the stock upper control arm bushings, definitely needed to be done.
I read up on how to get the old ones out, drilling, burning, then collapsing the shell, but decided to see if I could rent/borrow the correct tool. I checked out HarborFreight. com - and based on the shitty reviews, decided against buying the tools they had. I went to Autozone to check into renting some tools to get the bushings out, and the lower ball joint out - they only had a tool for lower ball joint, nothing for the upper control arm bushings. While I was at AZ - he mentioned taking it to a shop, so I did. They wanted $50 to replace both upper control arm bushings, both lower control arm bushings, and both lower ball joints - I provided the parts, all Moog Problem Solver. I went back home, took apart the other side, went back and dropped them off, they said they should be done tomorrow. $50 well spent, methinks.
I should have it back together in the next few days, tomorrow is pretty hectic.
Chipping away!
I already replaced the center drag link, inner and outer tie rods, and the Pittman idler arm.
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think I paid more than $50 on ebay for some bushing tools so I guess you did alright :)
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Yea... years ago I redid the bushings on my first TR.. Didn't have the right tools. I got it done, but it was a PITA, and took me hours and hours.
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Yea... years ago I redid the bushings on my first TR.. Didn't have the right tools. I got it done, but it was a PITA, and took me hours and hours.
IIRC I paid ~300 for mine. Was well worth the price as it will do more than bushings.
So the 50 bux was well spent !
AJ___
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I thought about getting a cheap press from Harbor Freight, and fiddle-fucking my way though it, but I don't expect to be doing many more bushing/ball joint jobs...
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Good job Mark.
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On the uppers you could've gotten a pair of tubular ones for about $100 plus shipping Mark. The nice thing is you never have to replace the bushings again. :rock: Taller ball joints would've been a great upgrade as well to help with some of the steering issues the G bodys have. :hmm
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I remember you posting about that. Speedway motors, right?
I already had all the replacement parts, and I am trying to stop spending money on this car.. :D
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I remember you posting about that. Speedway motors, right?
I already had all the replacement parts, and I am trying to stop spending money on this car.. :D
Amen!
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btw, How is the tranny mount...while staring at the broken cat hanger on my GN, I noticed the tranny mount was cracked as well
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I remember you posting about that. Speedway motors, right?
I already had all the replacement parts, and I am trying to stop spending money on this car.. :D
You remember well Mark. I listed all the parts for a "poor mans" suspension upgrade in the tech section. This is the only site that I put it on so that only members would know about it. :rock:
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I have a new tranny mount...
So - the show said that if they couldn't get them done last night, they would "get them done first thing this morning." the wife and I went to breakfast then to Dade City to visit some antique shops. ~12:30PM, no phone call, so i stopped by on my way home. Of course, they are still fucking sitting there. "My tech will get them done once he finishes the car that was here yesterday before you dropped off the parts."..
Fuck him, he said first thing this morning, and now I have to make another trip out to get the parts.
I had been looking for a shop to handle tires, alignments, etc, and even discussed that with him yesterday. I have a spare set of tires I need mounted and balanced on the Caddy, all 4 cars need alignments...
Now, he gets no more business, and I plan on letting him know that - I will follow up with a complaint to the main office.
Why is it it that all repair shops either rape you in charges or don't do what they say they will?
They had 3 of 6 bays with cars, they aren't busy either.
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bring them over, I will do them for you :D
I never believe anyone on these kinda deals
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Still no call. I am gonna raise some hell.
It's not a "deal", it's 10 minutes of work for someone half-competent with a press.
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I did not mean deal as in bargain :)
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They finally called at 4:14 to tell me they still didn't have them done, and wanted to now if I wanted to wait until tomorrow or pick them up. I think I will let them do them, and then dispute the charges. Cocksuckers.
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They finally called at 4:14 to tell me they still didn't have them done, and wanted to now if I wanted to wait until tomorrow or pick them up. I think I will let them do them, and then dispute the charges.
So who is this place; a chain?
If so let us know who it is.
AJ___
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Yes. "The Tire Choice & Total Car Care Store":
http://www.thetirechoice.com/find-a-tire-choice-location/tampa-bay/store/land-o-lakes-27.aspx (http://www.thetirechoice.com/find-a-tire-choice-location/tampa-bay/store/land-o-lakes-27.aspx)
I guess I should have read the Google reviews:
https://plus.google.com/103314222461580381225/about?hl=en (https://plus.google.com/103314222461580381225/about?hl=en)
Or the Yahoo reviews..
http://local.yahoo.com/details?id=44750217&stx=the+tire+choice+%26+total+car+care&csz=Land+O+Lakes+FL (http://local.yahoo.com/details?id=44750217&stx=the+tire+choice+%26+total+car+care&csz=Land+O+Lakes+FL)
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I dislike this trend which attempts to put a glossy franchised face on smaller mechanic shops. Putting more layers and overhead between me and the actual mechanics does nothing to increase my confidence.
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$50 is a pretty good deal if they actually would have done it.....
....on the other hand I did every replaced every bushing in my car and did it with a framing hammer and no press.
so it is possible to do it in a driveway.
huh huh
"do it"
huh huh
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I just called them to tell them I just wanted to pick them up..
He tells me "you spoke to the most inexperienced guy here, those ball joints are riveted in, I can't do it for that price,". (I reminded him that I REPEATEDLY told them I didn't want the upper ball joints done, that *I* would do those, I didn't even drop off the Moog upper ball joints and I spoke with the floor manager, who then went and conferred with the service manager before quoting me a price)
He then said "We were extremely busy Saturday when you brought them in." (I asked him why then weren't they done Sunday? That the floor manager I spoke with said that if they couldn't get to them Saturday, they would be done "first thing" Sunday morning when they opened at 9)
He said he would look at the work order and "Call me right back". this was at 10:30AM EST, let's see how long it takes for him to call back.
I'll bet they thought they had to do the upper ball joints, and balked at the quoted price, so they didn't do any work on them.
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The comedically inept shop called me to tell me the job as done. Well, what they could do.
They couldn't get the lower ball joints out, and forgot they were supposed to replace the bushings on the LCA.
So - they are charging me $20 for what work they did do, which was replace the UCA bushings.
They gave me some sob story that the district manager came by and bitched at them for working on customer's parts, and recommended next time I bring the entire car to them, then they could do the LCA bushings, but not the lower ball joints.
Idiots.
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Went to pick the parts about 3:30. All the got done was the upper control arm bushings, they couldn't figure out how to get the lower control arm ball joints off, or the LCA bushings.
While they were getting the parts together, they noticed they lost one of the bolts on the end of an upper control arm - as seen in this pic:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/GM-Metric-Upper-Control-Arms-A-Frames-G-Body-Type-Cars-/18/!B6!zY,gB2k~$(KGrHqF,!ikEyeL!m2lYBMv1G2Czs!~~_35.JPG)
He said since they lost the bolt there was no charge for replacing the upper control arm bushings, and I should go to Home Depot to get a replacement bolt. I laughed in his face - and told him I seriously doubted they sold swedged, suspension grade bolts. He said he had a buddy with a salvage yard and would ask him to send me a bolt - I told him not to bother, just give me my shit so I could get out of there before I made a scene. He said I needed to sign something saying they did the work, and I picked the parts up. He startled mumbling about how much work it was, and how he had to comp the labor - I told him to fuckin zip it and get me out of there.
I went to the other shop, they flat out said "No, we're not a machine shop."
The lady was nice, the owner that I talked to was a dick about it.
Oh well, looks like I a doing the replacement myself, at least I will know it's done right.
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wow
Sounds like a monkey and a manager could setup shop down there and make some serious coinage . . .
AJ___
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It's pretty damn pathetic.. What concerns me more is those "mechanics" repairing anything.
A customer of mine who is a gearhead too told me to check Advance Auto - sure enough, they have a really nice ball joint press kit on their loaner program - $159 deposit, I get it all back when I return it though.
No loaner tool for the lower control arm bushings, I will just cut/burn/beat the old ones out, and then use a large socket and a vise to get the new ones in.
I'll get them done tomorrow..
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Finally got them done today, after making a trip to the junkyard to get a replacement A-Arm bolt.
Lower ball joints were a breeze with the very nice loaner tool kit from Advance Auto.
http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog/rental-loaner-tools/416-648602-ball-joint-u-joint-service-kit.html (http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog/rental-loaner-tools/416-648602-ball-joint-u-joint-service-kit.html)
Using that tool, and some old sockets - I got out the lower control arm bushings, even though the dickheads at the "shop" had tried to hammer one out.
Ground off rivets and removed the old upper ball joints, and cleaned the lowers. One side had about 1.4" or hardened grease on it - that was a joy to get off, using a putty knife, screwdrivers, and finally a wire wheel. Used a grinder to smooth the edges too.
Spindles are degunked too, I must have scrapped/cleaned a good 2-3 pounds of crud off of them. Previous owner dicked up the threads on one spindle - I had to repair the threads a bit with a die - I am not surprised.
Today I plan to clean the uppers, and paint both the uppers and lowers with some undercoating.
Left degunked, prior to degreasing with purple stuff
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000049.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000050.jpg)
Uppers with ball joints removed, pile of old bushings. They were really bad - cracked, dry, etc.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000051.jpg)
Lowers after all cleaning and degreasing:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000052.jpg)
Finally, cleaned spindles.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000054.jpg)
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Looks like you need this http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_extend_spray/directions/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer-Spray.htm (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_extend_spray/directions/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer-Spray.htm)
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Yep. I was at Autozone yesterday, and forgot to get some rust primer. I have some of that brush-on rust converter.. Don't care for it though.
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Finally got the suspension parts done.
I cant see putting back in the stock 135k/25 year old front springs, or reusing the questionable shocks or front brake calipers - ordered replacements last night (Shit, just remembered I didn't order bearings. :013:) - should be able to get it all bolted back up next weekend. I have some more paint on the way too - I need to decrud the front frame rails, and paint the inner fenders. I even cleaned and painted the brake shields, I want to mouth kiss whoever invented flap wheel sanding discs. I was going to use undercoating spray for these parts, but I did a test spray on some trash parts, and didn't like the color. So, they parts are all primed with 2 coats of rusty metal primer (after very thorough cleaning) and then 2 coats of low gloss engine enamel.
What a PITA - but I got it done, returned the rental tool - what a great resource for the DIY mechanic.
Uppers and lowers done, ready to install (I will touch up the paint when I get more, I ran out)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000057-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000058-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000059-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000060-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000061-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000062-1.jpg)
turns out the grease boots for the lower ball joints mount to the ball joint body via a friction fit. :x
I found this out AFTER I returned the rental kit that had the right sized sleeve I needed to whack the grease boots into position. I saw an old brake caliper and had an idea.. Basically, I used shop air to pop out the piston, drilled a 3/4" hole in it, and used it, plus a socket over the ball joint stud to whack the grease boot on. :hullah:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000065-1.jpg)
Spindles ready to go in:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000066-1.jpg)
Disc brake shields:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000063-1.jpg)
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Looks nice...be too nice to drive
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That's the thing. I won't be entering any car shows, and an not really concerned about how it looks. BUT.. It's the "while I'm in there" mentality, I can't see putting back together greasy, nasty parts. I will admit, I do go a bit overboard on the prep and paint. (Even though I nicked up the paint on most of the parts handling them after being painted.)
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looks really nice!
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Spent another long day finishing up the front suspension Saturday.. All of this work is on the left-hand side, I got the right-hand side cleaned, prepped and primed - will finish that side soon.
Last night I took apart, cleaned, and re-greased the front wheel bearings. I was going to replace them, but only ordered outer bearings, and said fuck it, I didn't want to wait (or pay) for the outers, the old ones looked fine, I also didn't want to fsck with replacing the bearing races.
Assembled the spindles, mounted the new brake calipers to check fitment:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P10000672.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000069.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000085.jpg)
Then I started prepping the frame and fender wells for paint. I didn't really have to paint the plastic fender wells, but they were rough, and I had extra paint. :P. I made sure to spray the plastic bits with a few coats of adhesion promoter too.
After degreasing/cleaning:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000070.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000071.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000072.jpg)
After a few coats of rusty-metal primer:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P10000732.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P10000742.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P10000752.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P10000762.jpg)
After a few coats of my favorite low-gloss black:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P10000772.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000078.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000079.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000080.jpg)
Pic from inside engine compartment after left control arms installed:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000081.jpg)
Right side - I touched up the paint in the engine compartment as well
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000082.jpg)
Height comparison of stock 135k springs vs brand new ones (I probably didn't need to buy new ones. Oh well)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000083.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000084.jpg)
Spindle mostly assembled and mounted:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000086.jpg)
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Looks really nice!
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I am toying with the idea of restoring/flipping cars when i get older, so this is kind of practice. :)
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which brings to mind the question I have everytime I watch Wheeler Dealers.
Why doesn't Edd clean up the engine compartment when he is pulling stuff off to replace it? Why not paint that rusty pulley when changing a water pump? Seems like a little time spent detailing stuff might add to the sales price?
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I have thought that often as well. There has to be a line between what he does, and me going bonkers with silly shit.
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has had some really interesting cars on there lately
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You're doing a helluva job Mark. Don't worry about the static spring height, the spring steel quality is what wears out and doesn't necessarily affect it without a load. With the extensive work you are doing, it would be hard to verify ride height due to spring exchange anyway.
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You're doing a helluva job Mark. Don't worry about the static spring height, the spring steel quality is what wears out and doesn't necessarily affect it without a load. With the extensive work you are doing, it would be hard to verify ride height due to spring exchange anyway.
Thanks!
Thanks for the confirmation on the springs, I thought about the wear/fatigue aspect too.
I found two new brake lines in the trunk when I bought the car (Attached to the calipers in the pics) - I thought "Score"! Well, turns out they were the wrong ones, I have to order new ones anyway. Hehe.
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wish my car was touched by your grace!! suspension looks great, paint looks great. im a long way from that point but at least I see what hard work looks like!!
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wish my car was touched by your grace!! suspension looks great, paint looks great. im a long way from that point but at least I see what hard work looks like!!
Thanks Phil.
Take a lot of wasted time, paint, and sweat - add a dash of stupidity, you too can have a good looking suspension like mine. :D
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Got the front suspension done Saturday.. Sans the sway bar. I need to sand/prep/paint it first.
New calipers, lines, pads, etc.. I actually read the instructions, and honestly I never knew you were supposed to crimp/pinch the outboard pads. :icon_redface:
It has to be done with some pressure, I will do so once I get the brake booster and M/C installed. (Next project)
I got the goddamn spring compressor stuck in the spring when I put together the left hand side. I figured this out AFTER I had it all back together, cotter pins and all. So, I figured I needed to relieve some of the spring pressure to get the tool out. (Very nice compressor - tool rental from Autozone http://www.amazon.com/OEM-27035-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B003A18KCQ (http://www.amazon.com/OEM-27035-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B003A18KCQ) )
I put the jack under the LCA, and slowly lowered it. It got about 1.2 way down, then, due to the angle of the agm, the jack slid left (facing car) and the arm came all the way down, with the spindle (still loosely bolted to the bottom ball joint) holding it up enough to where the spring didn't pop out.
I gingerly fiddled with , and removed the coil spring tool. Then - The angle of the LCA was too extreme to get a jack under it to jack it back up. I went and got a ratchet strap and used it to lift the LCA enough so I could get a jack underneath it.
Also - putting the spindles back on when there's no engine/trans in is a joy too. There's not enough weight to get the spindle bolts started, and I have new upper poly bump stops which limits the UCA travel too. Again, I rigged a ratchet strap under the LCA to lift it enough so I could get the bolts started on the upper and lower ball joints.
<EddChina>Top tip - Align the cotter pin holes in the ball joints BEFORE assembling. </EddChina> :013:
Should I wait until i have the motor/trans in, and there's a full load on the front suspension before I tighten the LCA > frame and UCA > shaft bolts?
I noticed that the wheel weight on the inner right-hand wheel was scrubbed off. Turns out these are REAR TTA rims, that explains the spacers and longer wheel studs that are on the car. I would bet the previous owner installed them w/o spacers, and the tie rod end ate up the wheel weight and slightly dicked up the rim. With the spacer and longer wheel studs, I guess these wheels are OK.
And - Pics of course: (Shocking, yes - I didn't buy new rotors)
Completed RH side:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000088.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000089.jpg)
Primed/painted LH Side, ready for the guts:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000090.jpg)
LH parts waiting to go in:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000091.jpg)
Dicked-up RH inner rim/wheel weight:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000093.jpg)
Completed LH side:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000095.jpg)
Front shot (I was way too tired to worry about cleaning off the grease nipples. :p)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000099.jpg)
RH inner shot:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000100.jpg)
LH inner shot:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000101.jpg)
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think I would wait for the weight
sometimes you can avoid the compressor by loosely connecting the outside of the control arm to the ball joint, pop the spring into place and then jack the lower arm up with a floor jack until you are able to insert the bolts thru the ears of the arm.
Only do this with the engine in the car and with a good safety chain thru the spring and control arm so nothing can fly out
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Looks good Mark!!! When you have the extra energy though, clean the red grease. Like you said, it is on "nipples" which should eliminate the "chore" portion of the task.
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I will do so lovingly.. :player:
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I think I will wait to do the rear suspension (new springs, shocks, wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, pinion seal, etc until after I get the damn thing running.
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If you want to crimp/pinch the outboard pads, pry up on the center of the outboard pad and tap on the tabs until it doesn't rock in the caliper. When I'm doing a brake job with this style of caliper, I crimp the outboard pad tabs in a vice until I have to snap the pad in the caliper with a pliers. I have what I call a water pump pliers and it doesn't have any serrations. If you don't have the pad in tightly, it rattles going over bumps and washboard type roads, isn't really a safety issue. You can tell when this happens by gently applying the brake and the noise usually goes away.
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water pump pliers..musta gone to the same school I did
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Mark, you are doing a great job.
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If you want to crimp/pinch the outboard pads, pry up on the center of the outboard pad and tap on the tabs until it doesn't rock in the caliper. When I'm doing a brake job with this style of caliper, I crimp the outboard pad tabs in a vice until I have to snap the pad in the caliper with a pliers. I have what I call a water pump pliers and it doesn't have any serrations. If you don't have the pad in tightly, it rattles going over bumps and washboard type roads, isn't really a safety issue. You can tell when this happens by gently applying the brake and the noise usually goes away.
thanks for the tips.
I have done many a G-body brake job, but never remember the outer pad being so loose. These are premium AC Delco Durastop pads too.
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UPDATE!
Yes, I am still alive, and still wrenching on the GN.
I decided to get the fuse link relocation done.
I staggered the crimps so that section wouldn't be bulky when covered with loom. I didn't solder the crimped connectors, just a serious crimp, heat shrink, and loom over it.
Took an old battery cable I had laying around and made it into a positive feed cable for the junction box. A bit overkill, but I had it laying around. I did solder the copper ends on though - using a propane torch. :) I am very happy with the results.
Here's some pics.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000102_zps9fb8e467.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000103_zpsb495e7c2.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000106_zpsd7203ca6.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000107_zpse0bd34b9.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000114_zps994e05c9.jpg)
Then I decided to get the master cylinder area prepped for the MC/Booster.
I cut off and terminated the Powermaster wiring, and re-wrapped the harness below the booster.
I decided to run all new gauge/etc wires through the firewall - I can't trust anything with this car, and I have a bunch of wire anyway. Someone had drilled multiple holes just to the left of the cruise control vacuum line grommet. I found it interesting that even though all these holes were drilled - the old gauge wires was still run through the cruise control vacuum line grommet. Duh. Only the boost gauge tube was going through the extremely rough, ghetto holes. I pulled all of the non factory wiring out and will replace with new. The inside wiring for the gauge lights, senders, etc was a joke.
Pic after I took a Dremel and ground down the flash.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000117_zps206b3953.jpg)
I know I should have welded a repair cover plate, but not HAVING a welder poses an issue. :chin: I had some flat aluminum bar stock, fabricated a cover plate and adhered it with a large glob of RTV. I am thinking of drilling it top and bottom and bolting it in, but I think the RTV should be fine.
I drilled out out ONE hole in it, and used a grommet. It has since been painted to match the firewall since these pics, I *should* be able to get 3-4 sender wires and the boost signal tube through there.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000118_zpse0da4f75.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000119_zps3cf793e9.jpg)
I did some other piddling around - found out Amazon sent me the wrong accumulator - they say it's correct, it's not. Factory has the main A/C lines at a 45 degree angle, this unit has them at ~60 degrees. I don't think I can return it, I bought it in September. :(
Nice - Rock Auto has it listed as compatible too, looks like AC/Delco PN 15-1681 is the correct part number.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog-/raframecatalog.php?tab=search&mfr=ACDELCO&partnum=%2015-1681 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog-/raframecatalog.php?tab=search&mfr=ACDELCO&partnum=%2015-1681)
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Dude... all that effort and you didn't paint the calipers or rotor hats?
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Dude... all that effort and you didn't paint the calipers or rotor hats?
Seen that coming. :068:
AJ___
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Dude... all that effort and you didn't paint the calipers or rotor hats?
I don't plan on keeping the front brakes for too long (or the rims, for that matter) - didn't care to spend the time painting those parts.
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Worked some more on it yesterday.
I dropped the tank - thankfully, there was VERY little gas in the tank, and no rust. There's some crap in baffle area, but not too bad.
I removed the hokey hot wire that was installed, I will be using a Racetronix hot wire kit.
I rigged up an old pump, and a hose to the fuel feed. then I put a section of hose on the other end of the feed line under the hood - with a hose in a bucket. Then I put ~3 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank, swished it around, and pumped it through the system. I saw a little bit of surface rust in the bucket. I will run a few more gallons through once I get the new pump installed. Afterward, I replaced the fuel filter too. Is there some sort of solvent or something I can flush the system with that's better that straight gasoline?
The fuel strainer I ordered for the used GSS340M I planned to use, it didn't fit of course. :013:
I tested the fuel level sender, and I didn't like what I saw. (very erratic readings, using both a DVOM and analog meter) The in tank fuel line had been clamped WAY too hard, so i made a trip to NAPA and got the correct, submersible hose.
So.... I needed a "Ramchargers" dual fan harness, so when I ordered that from Racetronix, I went ahead and got a whole new hangar, sending unit and pump kit. It was on sale, and I want to do it once, and do it right.
That should be fine for what I plan to use the car with.
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPS-G7W255 (http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FPS-G7W255)
(http://racetronix.com/images/FPSG7/FPS-G7W.jpg)
Pics of ghetto hot wire setup, and wonderful monkey welding on the exhaust tip. :rolleyes;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000123_zps4f847ac5.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000124_zps68a7d9b0.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000125_zps69ff6367.jpg)
Only decent shot of inner tank wall I could get:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000128_zps6c743de4.jpg)
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Sigh.... This car is indeed possessed.
I spent a ton of time cleaning and prepping the gas tank. Wire wheel, Scotchbrite pad, degreased, etc.
I noticed some pitting on the bottom, where the tank had rusted when moisture got in between the rubber tank strap isolator and the tank.
I sprayed it with 2 coats of rusty metal primer, ~2 coats Rustoleum Flat black and installed the new Racetronix hanger, fuel pump and harness.
Pics:
Close up of corrosion damage before primer:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000132.jpg)
Tank cleaned, and ready for paint:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000134.jpg)
Primed rust area:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000136.jpg)
Completed tank:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000139.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000145.jpg)
After installing the new intermediary flexible fuel sections, trying to install the tank, trimming the other replacement fuel lines I noticed the goddamn tank started leaking.
Seems scraping it barely on the concrete under the car broke open a leak in the damaged section. :013:
I should have posted pics of the pitting and seen if I should have just gotten a new tank.
/me is a dumbass.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000148.jpg)
Sooo.. I ordered a new tank today - I should have it Wednesday.
I also found out the dual Intrepid fans that came with the car are defective, only one of the fans works. I will need to replace that too, especially since I already bought the Racetronix dual fan wiring kit.
Not much left to replace! :)
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You did replace the old harness with this setup...right?
http://www.racetronix.com/RX-G7-INJ-AB.html (http://www.racetronix.com/RX-G7-INJ-AB.html)
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You did replace the old harness with this setup...right?
http://www.racetronix.com/RX-G7-INJ-AB.html (http://www.racetronix.com/RX-G7-INJ-AB.html)
An injector harness? No.
I have the Ractronix FP Hotwire kit too.
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Update...
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Meh - none really.
I finally got the gas tank done and ready to put in.
Finished tank..
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000199.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000200.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000201.jpg)
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That's a lot of work! It's looking really nice. Can't wait to see the final product. :rock:
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That's a lot of work! It's looking really nice. Can't wait to see the final product. :rock:
Thank you sir!
I never promised a pretty car - but she'll be a-ok. ;)
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Lets go dad, get on it! :rofl: Waiting for more updates!
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Lets go dad, get on it! :rofl: Waiting for more updates!
Oh shit. Called out by my own son.
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:tongue
Get your arse in gear, the boys waitin' for his own ride!
:045:
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Haha. He has one.. I'm giving him the 87 T in a few years. :)
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Lets go dad, get on it! :rofl: Waiting for more updates!
I think this is called, Outa sight, outa mind! he does not seem motivated by Buicks anymore!
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Haha. He has one.. I'm giving him the 87 T in a few years. :)
And He'll probably never get it if you don't finish your Jalopy first.
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Haha. He has one.. I'm giving him the 87 T in a few years. :)
And He'll probably never get it if you don't finish your Jalopy first.
Please dont say that. Im going crazy waiting. Having to see them everyday and knowing their not mine or that i dont have one of my own...kills me :( :)
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Patience grasshopper. :)
Ok, here's the lastest updates on the GN:
I finished putting AN fittings on the trans cooler lines - they are ready.
Removed chrome rear end cover, cleaned off the rust with steel wool and a wire wheel. I spray painted it with clear engine enamel to stop/slow the rust from coming back. Replaced rear end fluid with Lucas synthetic and 1 bottle GM posi additive.
But the DAY I finished servicing the diff - I see the aluminum Buick cover TB3 was selling and buy it. (Thanks man - FAST shipping, great communication!)
I decided to paint it similar to the "theme" of the motor, low gloss black with sanded aluminum ribs.
As received:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000244.jpg)
Painted (Before sanding/Dremel)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000247.jpg)
After sanding - done. Casting isn't the greatest - the rib width is screwey down by the bottom.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000267.jpg)
This is with the old cover on, I just finished the aluminum cover last night. I replaced the shocks too. I was told they were "newer", but remember this car has been sitting for ~6 years. They needed to be replaced. This is as I was putting the gas tank back in. And if you need to remove tanks/etc on a regular basis. go buy a Harbor Freight transmission jack. It makes dropping the tank a breeze.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/transmission-jacks/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/transmission-jacks/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000225.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000227.jpg)
New Racetronix sender/hanger, fuel pump, and hot wire kit. (Not installed yet)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000228.jpg)
Installed:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000229.jpg)
Next up is rebuilding the rear brakes - I am replacing everything but the backing plates.
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Same jack I've got Mark. One other nice thing about it is you can use it as an adjustable seat and move around on it to do things like the brakes you're going to do. Much better than squatting or resting on your knees. :rock:
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Mice? ??? ? Charlie??? Mark, your kid's gotta sit back and watch the snail's progress of GN work? That's just brutal :powersix: I might be in the middle of a brain fart, isn't he in the Air Force?
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Heehee.. He loves it. If he is smart about it, he's watch and learn. Like I said in another post - I learn something new about these cars every time I work on them, to this day.
Yes - he's in the Air Force - currently at Davis-Monthan AFB outside of Tucson AZ. He said a few guys on base have GN's, that makes it even harder for him. Although - I AM wrenching on the car that will be his, maybe that's his plan?
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You've had all day to get the brakes done...so what's next?
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You've had all day to get the brakes done...so what's next?
Meh - just goofed off today - napped.. :P
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Same jack I've got Mark. One other mice thing about it is you can use it as an adjustable seat and move around on it to do things like the brakes you're going to do. Much better than squatting or resting on your knees. :rock:
One bad thing about that jack..
If you are using an impact to raise/lower it (Yeah, I know, it says NOT to use an impact. Whatevs.;)) be VERY careful lowering it with one if there's a trans on the jack. it will come down in a millisecond (or so it seems). I only used a 1/2 ratchet and wobble extension to lower it after that.
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Had the same issue when I let it down. :013: Stripped out the set screw and had to modify the shaft (no I'm not Aaron) to fix it. :rofl: Used it today to take the tank out of an 07 F-150 and it worked just fine. :rock:
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My positive battery cable sucks - all beat up, red cover is ripped, etc. I looked at some vendor replacements, but I thought since I had relocated the fuse links and installed the + terminal box - I could come up with something better, for much less money.
I measured the old OEM cable, and the battery > starter cable is ~32", the alternator feed wire is ~67". I'm not sure what gauge the OEM cables are.
I spent much too much time cruising Amazon's ACDelco cable replacement selection. I figured out how to roughly decode ACDelco's replacement battery part number system, on MOST of them, the first number is the wire gauge, and the length is in their too.
I ended up with the cable pictured below. The starter ring terminal that came on it was too small to fit on the TR starter, so I pulled the old OEM lug off of the old cable (desoldered, wire cleaned, etc) and put it on the end of the new cable. One issue is the new cable is 2GA, seems the OEM is 4GA? The lug wasn't quite big enough for the 2GA wire, but a LOT of solder, a propane torch, and some heat shrink tubing fixed that.
My alternator feed will be a 4GA or 6GA cable, routed from the + terminal block, around the back of the engine to the alternator.
I also found really cheap ground posts. I bought on, and will use it on the firewall for all of the grounds, including ~2 more home made braided ground straps. One pictured below, I installed that on the 87T though.
$4.84 Bussmann BP/JB3816-2 Junction Block http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYN6QK/ (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYN6QK/)
Cable
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0232.jpg)
Cable end:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0233.jpg)
Ground strap:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Regal%20Turbo%20T/2013-06-21131207.jpg)
Here's a repost of the + relocation terminal pics.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000102_zps9fb8e467.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000103_zpsb495e7c2.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000106_zpsd7203ca6.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000110_zps73b4e335.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000113_zps6f826fdd.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/P1000114_zps994e05c9.jpg)
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Nice Job!
You really don't need groundstraps that are wider than a half inch and I think that is over kill. A quarter inch to 3/8" should be fine. Sometimes hard to find the smaller copper ones.
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I,know the wiring may be overkill - but I love doing custom wiring, building them, etc, and I figure you can't have too many grounds. :D
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I will be extending the battery wiring on the Racetronix fan harness too, to use the terminal block for +, and hid the ground wire behind the large ground strap I will be running from the battery to the body. I really dislike having multiple taps on a sidepost batter terminal.
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I've got a positive cable off a combine I worked on years ago and I think it's 2/0 cable. It's at least 6' long and I'll be adapting it for my positive cable. The stock wiring on most cars is minimal for cost and weight so going with a larger one will usually solve some of the electrical issues that happen over time. You've got some good ideas Mark and I may just be incorporating some of them myself. :cheers:
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The cable above was $30.00, I love that it's covered in that heat-resistant wrap. PM me of you want the P/N, I am toying with the idea of making a few custom cable assemblies to sell, at a bit more reasonable pricing.
I also found a source for name brand braided ground straps - but MUCH less than others charge.
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TickTock!
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TickTock!
Need to kick your Dad's ass!
:icon_smile:
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:x
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looks like youre going to have a killer stereo system :rofl:
all jokes aside i love improving and cleaning up the engine bay[size=78%]/harness. sometimes it can be a rats nest..[/size] :cheers:
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Yep - I hate having the fuse links down by the starter.
We have been wrenching, just not on the GN. :D
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We did get a lot done. we replaced the upper control arms, brakes, colipack, cleaned up and painted the valve cover, and compounded the outside of the car. im sure i lkeft something out but we got a lot of work in.
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Supersix has been called out! I told him that he has to have the car at least driveable by march. The reason for this is I am in the air force and I have gotten orders to Yokota Japan and I leave at the end of march. I won't be back in the state's for at least 2vyears and I really want to drive to some car meets with me in my turbo t and him in his gn. :)
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Yep - called out indeed,
So I have been doing some work on it, getting the last things done before I put the motor in.
Completing the ground assembly block for the firewall, got the negative batt cable in.
I still need to order the converter.
I replaced the possibly cracked oil drain pipe with an aftermarket piece I bought. Tough to get it in right without dissembling the front of the engine. I got it in there, not sure if it will leak though.
I may just pull a few more parts off and reinstall it to make sure it is done right. I don't want a leak after I get the motor installed.
I rebuilt the rear brakes last Saturday. Everything is new - wheel cylinders, shoes, most hardware..
They looked like they were in good shape, the shoes were fine - but I just can't trust anything on this car, much less the brakes.
Old shoes:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00104.jpg)
Finished brakes:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00101.jpg)
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Woohooooooooo lol
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He also has a new pair of jegs fender covers to use :)
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More updates:
Did some work a few weeks ago..
Installed Racetronix hot wire kit
Installed firewall ground lug I built, worked on positive batt cable/supply routing.
Laid out trans cooler lines.
Then yesterday, I decided I would drop the motor in.
I pulled off the oil cooler sandwich plate – since I am using an FBody radiator, I will go without an oil cooler. With the FBody rad, dual fans, and a Racetronix fan harness - I don’t think oil temp will be an issue.
I hooked up an oil pressure gauge and made sure the motor still had prime – it did.
While I had the crank sensor out, I made sure the motor was at TDC (Both Cyl 1 valves were closed, balancer at “0”) and set the crank sensor (I hope) I am using a Casper’s LED cap, so I made sure to use the instructions on his site.
I finally got my new converter from PTC.. It took over two weeks, not sure what the holdup was. I drilled out one of the flexplate bolt holes to 7/16” per the included instructions, it’s ready to go in. FYI – It seems Pat’s is out of business..
While I was under the car I noticed the shift cable is trashed – have to replace that before I put the trans in, I have one on the way from Amazon.
I was amazed how easy the motor went in, it literally took 5 minutes to drop it in. These are worth their weight in gold:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html)
I still need to put a ground lug on the fender near the battery, install a few extra ground straps (Adding one from body to frame as well), install and reroute a new alternator > battery charging cable, and a million other things.
But at least I am making progress! :D
I only took a few pics..
Laying out the braided trans cooler lines:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00381.jpg)
Closeup of homemade firewall ground lug:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00382.jpg)
Fuel pump hotwire:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00384.jpg)
BWM PS reservoir I am adapting to the Buick – Only needed a ˝ > 3/8 barb adapter to get it to work, I will mount it to the existing PS bracket with a huge hose clamp:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00385.jpg)
Motor pics:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00445.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00446.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00447.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00449.jpg)
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looks good. This should kick you into gear to finish it up....good feeling to drive one after it's been parked forever...so I hear
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looks good. This should kick you into gear to finish it up....good feeling to drive one after it's been parked forever...so I hear
Good and bad..
Good that it's finally in, bad that there's a bewildering amount of work left to do. :(
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Worked a bit on it tonight..
Hooked up fuel lines - after spending 30 minutes looking for the replacement orings I bought 2+ years ago.
Plumbed new replacement BWM PS reservoir. I used a Dremel to cut slits in the factory mounting bracket, so I could use a huge hose clamp to hold it. Pics of the bracket below are before I painted them. $18 for the reservoir, and $12 for the 1/2" > 3/8" barbed adapter. Damn sight better than the $100 people want for a used stocker.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00450.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00451.jpg)
Installed:
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00452.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/CAM00453.jpg)
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saved some money there!
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I think it even looks better!
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Actually got my ass out there an got a bunch of shit done today. I'm over making it look pristine, I just want to get it on the road.
cleaned the used PS reservoir I bought - I had to use the one above to save the kid at Pep Boys when he was getting tires mounted. Long story..
Cleaned and painted PC res bracket, then installed and plumbed it all.
Ran alternator charge wire - 6ga stuff I bought online. I don't like the way it looks, so I just ran it along the back of the motor and connected it to the + dist block. I will move it later, if need be.
Installed a ground lug in the fender near the battery, and connected the 4ga GND portion of my new - BAT cable. The portion from the BAT to the block is 2ga. Makes a nice spot to connect the relay GND for the Racetronix dual fan harness I also installed today.
I had ordered a new condenser from Amazon, and as my luck would have it, they sent the worn one. After a nit of web surfing, and a nice coupon, I found one local for ~$2 more than Amazon. Went, grabbed that, and after I mounted the trans cooler (I need to buy some cooler line) installed it in the car. A decent looking parallel flow unit made in China. Not the best fit. Should work fine.
Shortened the ECU + feed wire - it now connects to the + distribution block I installed.
Connected rear engine ground straps, I added 1 that goes to the passenger side head.
Added a ground strap from the body to the frame. Cant hurt, I have a few spares.
Installed stock intercooler (For now)
Went to install some of the intercooler hoses - and realized I have none. Derp! I must have thrown them away or something.
Next thing is the driveshaft loop - all 4 bolts were crossthreaded when I removed it, so I need to retap / thread the holes and get that done. After that - transmission goes in.
I am at the point now that I spend a lot of time looking for the right bolts, etc. Remember kids - bag-n-tag!
It's coming along.. :P
**EDIT** More I forgot:
Replaced the orifice tube with one of the red Ford units.
Installed new orings on condenser > drier line
Installed new TV cable.
Installed/router cruise control cable. (missing a clip. Can't find it anywhere. Grrr)
installed throttle cable.
Snipped off the charcoal canister purge plug.
oops - forgot the pics
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0040.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0041.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0042.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0043.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0044.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0045.jpg)
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ground strap to the frame cannot hurt? Ground loop in the making!
Sounds like you made some progress!
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ground strap to the frame cannot hurt? Ground loop in the making!
Sounds like you made some progress!
I thought it would help provide GND for the frame? That's wrong?
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The frame is not a ground on a G body
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The frame is not a ground on a G body
Well then - OK.
Thanks. :)
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Getting more and more done.
I have a few rolls of vacuum line coming in today - I will run all new lines this weekend.
Got the FBody radiator installed. I will be surprised if it doesn't leak - looks a bit beat up. I'm not running an engine oil cooler, so I should be good.
I have the transmission cooler line coming in today too (I had a lot less hose/line than I thought I did - thanks Amazon!)
using that, I will plumb both the internal radiator and external coolers.
I am spending a good amount of time just rounding up loose ends, small parts, fasteners, etc. I guess this happens when you are a bit unorganized, and the work takes longer than you initially expected.
Are Grade8 bolts good enough for the 6 bellhousing bolts?
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yep, they should work just fine
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Yep..
Coming along...
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0048.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0047.jpg)
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Looks good S6!
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Looking nice under that hood!
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Customized Intrepid fan wiring harness for Racetronix dual fan harness.
Completed trans fluid piping. Trans out > filer > radiator > external cooler > trans in
Enclosed and routed + ALT cable, HVAC vac lines, routed gauge harness under manifold (For the most part)
Connected and routed tach lead for 4" (I think) VDO tach I have. I still need to wire the internal gauges, I haven't touched the interior yet, except to replace.repair the existing horn ring - someone got happy with JB Weld and Super Glue, it was all that was holding it together.
Connected and routed nylon boost signal tube, going through a single grommet in the firewall, with the 4 gauges wires.
Verified the engine is at TDC, (Thanks, Steve & Vortexbuicks.c om) checked cam sensor, window is where it should be. I weighed using a standard sensor cap and using the Casper's LED tool I have, or to use the Casper's LED cap I have. It looks like the LED cap is easier to set correctly,so I went with that.
I took the time to clean the timing mark out, and fill it with white crayon wax. I wonder if I should have used paint, and why I didn't do that for the ~2 years the engine was on a stand, but I digress..
I noticed the crank sensor needs adjustment and tightening, and that I hadn't plugged it in.
Prepared, painted, and prepped the sway bar for installation. I will complete it once I have it up in the air for the transmission install. right now, the rear of the engine is being supported by wood blocks.
I need to figure out what size hardware I need to install the Gran Prix braces and front bar I have. Those aren't a great priority though. Anyone have an idea? I haven;t started searching yet..
I think I will do a very detailed check before I fire this thing-It's been so long, I am sure there's a fastener or three I need to tighten/adjust.
I like having the freedom to do what I want with the car, not worry about keeping it pure. I am rerouting, drilling, mounting, and moving shit- having a lot of fun with it too.
Wait until I paint it pepper gray metallic. :P
Some pics coming soon.
Trans hoses/filter - messy, but functional. I put slices of a bike tire tube in most places to insulate from vibration. A used bike tube can be very handy!
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0053.jpg)
Trans piping with new ($59!) FBody radiator - those stupid little fittings were $12 ea. Sheesh. ;)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0056.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0054.jpg)
Intrepid fan after harness mod - Love doing shit like this. Used the ample parts from the Racetronix fan kit - nice new weatherpak connection. The old harness I cut out is on the upper left.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/87%20Grand%20National/Repair%20pics/IMAG0057.jpg)
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I like the color! You are making a lot of progress :)
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Be careful of that dual fan setup. Walked by the front of my car one day...and it kicked on and pinned me to the grill. :)
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Lol lol!
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:)
I had hoped to get it started this weekend, but I had way too much shit to get done.
Maybe this week, but it's coming!!
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:)
I had hoped to get it started this weekend, but I had way too much shit to get done.
Maybe this week, but it's coming!!
Take your time. Rushing is never a good idea.
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You're right. That's been nagging me too.
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Get it on video! I want to see it :)
Hey maybe this means my cars not needed as a template anymore and it can come out here to a nice dry hot desert climate :D
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GET ON WITH IT! :)
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My motor better not be rebuilt/running before yours.
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Got tired of looking at the car, decided to get some work done.
Removed throttle body and Installed Idle Air Control Valve Angle Boss
Replaced digital fuel pressure sender with a glycerin-filled mechanical for now, installed 45, gauge points up now to clear IAC relocation
Mounted cooling fans, attached high current harness - will probably re-do, looks wonky now.
Filled power steering (no leaks yet)
Installed coil pack / ignition module
Installed driver's side exhaust header, and both alternator and A/C > header bolt support brackets.
Re-installed oil dip stick tube.
Finalized intercooler > charge piping arrangement/orientation.. up pipe had water pool in it, need to treat the rust or replace.
Finalized intake piping / MAF sensor / air filter location.
Installed MAF translator, loomed/routed wiring.
Pics of progress, first three are "before".
(http://ihadav8.com/images/20170716_112106_HDR.jpg)
(http://ihadav8.com/images/20170716_112110.jpg)
(http://ihadav8.com/images/20170716_112116.jpg)
(http://ihadav8.com/images/20170716_175606.jpg)
(http://ihadav8.com/images/20170716_175610.jpg)
(http://ihadav8.com/images/20170716_175618.jpg)
(http://ihadav8.com/images/engine4.jpg)
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Not sure why it inverted the pics. Grrrrr
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Keep at 'er!
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Nice work!
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Thanks..
I'm tired of looking at it, talking about it, and not doing anything about it.
I can't bring myself mentally to take the loss I would if I sold it as-is (a bit over 20k in it), and future owners wouldn't respect the work done like I do. Not to mention the hours and hours I have into rebuilding damn near every system in this car.
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These are cars. You ain't getting back anywhere near what you put In. You need to get it running and driving and drive that thing and get the enjoyment out of what you have in it. I get someone trying to make an offer on mine at least once a month. But I love driving it and mine is a beater. But it is mine.
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These are cars. You ain't getting back anywhere near what you put In. You need to get it running and driving and drive that thing and get the enjoyment out of what you have in it. I get someone trying to make an offer on mine at least once a month. But I love driving it and mine is a beater. But it is mine.
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
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Not sure why it inverted the pics. Grrrrr
I figured I'd have a few beers than they'd look OK
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Pics fixed! Seems if they are too big, the board flips the images. Doh.
Got a little done this weekend. Waste gate controller and vac hoses installed, checked all vacuum lines, found a vac cap and MAF vacuum connector that was rotten, replaced them. Installed upper rad hose, filled with water/water wetter/antifreeze - no leaks yet.
I'm at the point where I spend way too much time looking for small things, bolts, etc - but it's almost 99% done.
This is what I need to get done to fire it up:
Attach last braided trans cooling line. (I broke the last AN fitting)
Attach shift cable bracket.
Install trans dipstick, tube, and fill trans with fluid.
Verify kick-down cable is installed correctly.
Reinstall crossover pipe.
Install downpipe.
Install exhaust.
Flush/fill fuel system.
Install motor mount nuts.
Wire important gauges. (Oil pressure, coolant)
Bleed brake system.
Install new A/C lines.
Not too bad!
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Lotsa progress! Did you check all the check valves to see if they still function? The hose that goes to the vacuum ball under the canister always worries me
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Think my retirement plan is to go around to TR's owners homes like our boss' here and get their TR's up and running. I'll sleep on their couch...raid their fridge of beer and food...whiz on their front lawn between beers...throw wrenches and yell obscenities... and have Molly Hatchet Flirtin' With Disaster screaming from the stereo in my truck.
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Now that is an ambitious plan that I can approve of!
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Lotsa progress! Did you check all the check valves to see if they still function? The hose that goes to the vacuum ball under the canister always worries me
Like most of the car, they are new. :)
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Think my retirement plan is to go around to TR's owners homes like our boss' here and get their TR's up and running. I'll sleep on their couch...raid their fridge of beer and food...whiz on their front lawn between beers...throw wrenches and yell obscenities... and have Molly Hatchet Flirtin' With Disaster screaming from the stereo in my truck.
That's a solid goddamn plan there.
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Kinda like a "Turbo Buick personal trainer"
I like. Or is that *like*?
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Got more stuff done this weekend.
Installed last driver's side header bolt.
Installed/tightened crossover.
Installed motor mount bolts (After looking for them for 30 minutes, and another 45 minutes for a trip to Lowe's)
Installed new A/N trans line fitting, broke that fucker too, I need to read up on how to tighten A/N fittings without breaking them. :013: :013: Yet another one on order from Summit.
Mocked up/test fit 3" single shot exhaust, ordered stainless Wagner band exhaust clamps.
Inspected muffler (DynoMax UltraFlow 3" offset), decided it's trash, previous owner used old-style clamps, and must have use an impact to install them. He also decided to use a chop saw to remove the old muffler from the end pipe that goes over the differential, so I ended up ordering a new muffler (same one) and an extension piece so I can fab it up to replace the section cut out, and still stuck in the old muffler. You can see the hammer marks on the old muffler where he tried to beat it off of the pipe.
Spent 30 minutes grinding off slag from the horrible welds on the Y test pipe.
Used my beloved brass hammer and banged/hammered on both the downpipe exit (TH 3") and forepipe so they fit. Looks like someone used the forepipe to hammer a nail.
Couldn't find the front sway bar bolts, pretty sure it was removed when I bought the car. I researched it, and decided to use Rivnuts in the frame, and bought steel hex socket head cap bolts because of the allowed/limited bolt head size.
Spent most of Sunday looking for parts and gaskets - lots of Amazon and other packages coming.
Parts I am missing:
1. Shift cable trans mount clip
2. Factory front sway bar bolts (being upgraded/replaced)
3. Many more to come.
Remaining/Updated list:
Attach last braided trans cooling line. (Still - broke ANOTHER fitting)
Attach shift cable bracket. (Found it, on an old trans I had)
Install trans dipstick, tube, and fill trans with fluid.
Verify kick-down cable is installed correctly.
Install downpipe.
Install exhaust. (Mocked up, waiting for parts)
Flush/fill fuel system.
Wire important gauges. (Oil pressure, coolant)
Bleed brake system.
Install new A/C lines.
Finish installing front sway bar.
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Steves site has the proper adjustment procedure. Barely snug up the AN fitting...fire the car up and check for it leaking...and snug it from there. You can't gorilla those fittings.
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Steves site has the proper adjustment procedure. Barely snug up the AN fitting...fire the car up and check for it leaking...and snug it from there. You can't gorilla those fittings.
Wish I had read it before breaking the 2nd one, and this one broke off inside the hose, so i will have to cut off the end and replace it. Grrrr
It's the last fluid (except gas) I need to fill before I fire it up.
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That shift cable clip is the same as the brake hose clip. If ya need one send me an address and ill get one in the mail. I bought what I thought was one and it came as a five pack I think
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Thanks - I'll check my spare brake assemblies and let you know - thanks
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Think my retirement plan is to go around to TR's owners homes like our boss' here and get their TR's up and running. I'll sleep on their couch...raid their fridge of beer and food...whiz on their front lawn between beers...throw wrenches and yell obscenities... and have Molly Hatchet Flirtin' With Disaster screaming from the stereo in my truck.
That's a solid goddamn plan there.
What he said
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Didn't get a ton done this weekend, but I did get the swaybar mounted. A lot of the paint and prep I did was for naught, there's a lot of surface rust. It used to look so good! :icon_neutral:
The suspension is DONE.
I used 10 x 1.5 x 25MM all cap-head socket bolts - grade 12.9 and rivet nuts. Those things are badass!
Bought these items on Amazon:
Astro 1427 Hand Rivet Nut Kit - $38.00
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTGLUSZ/ (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTGLUSZ/)
175PCS Metric M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 Mixed Zinc Plated Carbon Steel Rivet Nut Threaded Insert Nutsert Assortment Kit - $12.99
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073H6CSXY/ (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073H6CSXY/)
iExcell Total 20-Pack Black M10 x 20mm/25mm/30mm/35mm Thread Pitch 1.5mm 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws - $6.98
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTGLUSZ/ (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTGLUSZ/)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/SBRight.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/SBLeft.jpg)
Right and left suspension pic
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/rightsusp.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/leftsusp.jpg)
Peeking up at the engine..
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/bottomofengine.jpg)
Shot down the frame..
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/downshot.jpg)
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Lookin' good boss.
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Nice day wrenching today, got some important stuff done, and some trivial as well.
Test fitted the downpipe - it fits perfectly. I will pull it off once more to apply some copper silicone sealant.
Gave the turbo shield three coats of 2000 degree flat aluminum engine enamel - same stuff I used on the rest of the aluminum-colored items in the engine bay. This was after spraying it with regular temp primer.. Probably a bad idea - we'll see if it boils/burns/bubbles.
Used more rivet nuts - this time to get a better grip for the grounds to the firewall, no worry about it pulling out, coming loose, etc. Used an M8 rivet nut, bolt and serrated washers. Someone got drill happy on the firewall, I need to plug those holes somehow.
I also used two small M5 rivet nuts / cap head screws / serrated washers to affix the underhood light - the factory holes were demolished. Reattached the bulb positive lead.
Cleaned up and reinstalled charcoal canister. I don't have the solenoid, and I remember clipping the sensor wires and tucking them into the loom. If nothing else, it will absorb/diffuse the vapors. If I start smelling fuel, I'll address it. Not a priority now.
Refurbished the A/C line clips I bought, then I won an eBay auction for more, so now I have two sets. one pair is all clean, primed and painted.
Still need to address the fan situation - I have some ideas.. I want to box in the radiator, and box in the fans too using sheet aluminum and, you guessed it - rivet nuts to attach. I saw some old ATR ones, shouldn't be too hard to replicate with some cardboard a sharpy and a utility knife. I could go bonkers and get a cheap sheet metal brake from HF..
Not sure who I bought this intercooler from, but the paint job is done... Paint was flaking off using a hose on the "Jet" position.
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/20170812_164956.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/20170812_165008.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/20170812_165026.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/20170812_165037.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/20170812_165051.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/20170812_165109_HDR.jpg)
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/20170812_165208.jpg)
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Looking good!
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Holy shit! Is that a stock turbo?!
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Holy shit! Is that a stock turbo?!
TA49....
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Okay, I was worried there for a second.
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Once I get this one dialed in, a d get myself familiar with PowerLogger, and the Scanmaster G I just ordered, I plan on upgrading the turbo and intercooler first. That's a ways away.
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The 200's won't take much abuse over stock HP levels. Be prepared to throw money at the trans when you upgrade the IC and turbo.
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Its a Cruz or White trans already IIRC
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Yes - it's fully rebuilt.
(http://www.ihadav8.com/images/TransRebuild.JPG)
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Yer' good to go...put the boost to 'er!
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Did I read that tranny invoice correctly? $11k for a rebuild?
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Typo, sorry. All in, Scott McCClay drum, etc - $1750...
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What convertor is in the car? What size exhaust housing on the turbo? I'll assume .63 Garrett. I'm to lazy to go through this post.
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What convertor is in the car? What size exhaust housing on the turbo? I'll assume .63 Garrett. I'm to lazy to go through this post.
PTC 2800 10" lock up.. Not sure on the exhaust housing.
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It'll spool well with that convertor with a .63 Garrett.
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For a cheap instant upgrade I'd weld a Dutt neck to the stock IC.
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For a cheap instant upgrade I'd weld a Dutt neck to the stock IC.
Thanks, good idea...
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Did I read that tranny invoice correctly? $11k for a rebuild?
Yah, nearly sh*t myself reading that. :O
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Good and bad wrenching day yesterday.
Used yet more rivet nuts, this time for the chassis ground next to the battery. Replaced a through-bolt I had installed for grounds. (Fan harness, and battery > chassis ground) Finalized battery cable routing. Used another rivet nut for the battery hold down, no more body clip/retainer. Had to re-tap the shitty side post extender I need for the Ramchargers fan, and power tap.. I may need to rethink that approach, or buy a better post extender.
Decided to install the new Highway Stars A/C lines, close up the A/C system, and put a vacuum on it. Removed the seal from the back of my new compressor, it still had a vacuum, that's a good thing.
Glen's lines include a small aluminum adapter/bushing that has to be used with the new-style A/C compressors. I read that, read up on it, says it's required, but not how or where to install it. Process of elimination brought me to the thought that it fit in the outer discharge port.
I went to see if it fit, so I could understand the item's use. I wasn't paying attention, and tried to put it in the suction port, and it quickly fell into the bowels of the R4 compressor. Yay.
Used my borescope, couldn't see the part.. Soooo time to take the compressor out. Lots of fun.
Long story short, after a lot of shaking, more borescope use, brass hammer taps, smacks, etc - the adapter is stuck in the compressor, there goes $250.00 down the tube, the ruined unit was a brand new ACDelco too. I could hear it rattling around once, but couldn't get it to where I could grab it. :013: :013:
Ordered a new compressor, another adapter, and a new high pressure switch from Highway Stars...
This is the item that fell in the compressor, and yes - I am indeed a dumbass.
(http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-iehmm/products/1350/images/1975/AC4345_Insert__62948.1437074374.386.513.jpg)
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that sounds like my usual luck!
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hang some pictures when you get it figured out
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Call Glen and plead insanity. Sorry...couldn't resist. On a serious note...is there no way of disassembling that thing?
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Call Glen and plead insanity. Sorry...couldn't resist. On a serious note...is there no way of disassembling that thing?
Possibly, but I watched a few disassembly videos, and I would rather buy a new one. I don't have the tools, a seal kit (I for sure will rip a few taking it apart) and A/C is terribly important to me. I don't want to take a chance.
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I think I'd be calling highways stars and ask for an installation video of the said required part.
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I think I'd be calling highways stars and ask for an installation video of the said required part.
I will email them before I install, for sure.
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So where are you with this car?