Freshen up a motor

[YGspider]

Ok so my question to you engine tech guys is what is my best options to make a reliable strong block with good internals. Basically this fall the motor is coming out and I want to go roller cam but I'm going to leave the hydraulic lifters. My goals for this motor are to make use of a TE44 turbo full potential lets say to a 600plus HP capability and beyond in terms of reliabilities I want a good motor. What are some things I will need I'm very new to engine builds.
Forged pistons?
Studded block?
New crank?
All new bearings all around.
Would there be a lot of benefit in going with roller lifters?     
Any links to parts and parts numbers as well as little advice from your own finds would be welcome.
 

[Charlief1]

A TE-44 won't make 600 HP by itself. You'd need another power adder like nitrous to get there. Here's some links that should give you some idea of what it's capable of.


http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/turboguide/turboguide.html


http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/turboguide/turbos.html


http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboupdate.html

[YGspider]

In terms of the 600 HP I just want a overly done motor for the horses I want to kick out. So lets say my car makes 500 HP I don't want the block to be maxed out if its only able to take a 500 HP beating? If that makes sense? Like I said I'm pretty new when it comes to engine builds but I basically want a very reliable street motor that wont need a tear down every season... 
 
I think I'm going to go with these items on the rebuild
 
Roller Cam , High volume oil pump, deep sump oil pan? what else would be needed?
 

[Steve Wood]

Note that if you use a roller cam you have to use roller lifters and proper associated springs, push rods etc.   I don't see any need for a hv oil pump, deep oil pan, girdle, etc. for a te 44 set up

[Charlief1]

Billet mains or girdle, forged crank and rods, good pistons with a 9:1 compression ratio, and anything bigger than a stock cam. What you don't quite understand is the turbo is what will get you to the magic number you want as long as you build the short block to hold up. Saying you want a 600 HP engine is one thing and you can get there with a stock block engine, if you tune it right and have the right turbo ect.


What I think you want is a solid performing engine that will hold up to a lot of abuse and allow you to update it later with a larger turbo, right?

[YGspider]

I'm looking for a motor that has the means to last me a few good years of abuse. I may upgrade the TE44 and it would be nice to have a block that can handle a bigger power source. I do understand my turbo is basically good to 450 HP or something like that. But the point I'm trying to make is wouldn't it be better to go with better then stock parts for longevity of the block?
For my combo basically I'm going to be running this. TE44 , AlkyControl, RJC boost controller , 2800 10" stall , 42.5lb injectors, 3 inch downpipe , PTE stock stretch intercooler,
Roller cam kit from  Revolution X Roller Cam Kit Comp Lifters new bearings and stud the block ? would that be a pretty decent combo?

I cant think of anything else I'm missing.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i agree on your approach but from lots of reading on these buick boards most like to go just enough then max that out and upgrade again. i feel that backwards thinking as its usually more expensive to buy parts twice but then again i don't know shit.
I would Go for your over build and not worry about making the power later. thats what i will be doing this winter.   

I'm looking for a motor that has the means to last me a few good years of abuse. I may upgrade the TE44 and it would be nice to have a block that can handle a bigger power source. I do understand my turbo is basically good to 450 HP or something like that. But the point I'm trying to make is wouldn't it be better to go with better then stock parts for longevity of the block?
For my combo basically I'm going to be running this. TE44 , AlkyControl, RJC boost controller , 2800 10" stall , 42.5lb injectors, 3 inch downpipe , PTE stock stretch intercooler,
Roller cam kit from  Revolution X Roller Cam Kit Comp Lifters new bearings and stud the block ? would that be a pretty decent combo?

I cant think of anything else I'm missing.

[Jeff]

If your over building I would change those 42lbs to 60lbs injectors..

[YGspider]

If your over building I would change those 42lbs to 60lbs injectors..

Yea I've thought about that for quite a while now. I just might do that. my car already has the hotwire kit as well but I'm not sure how old it is and I feel like I should just buy a whole new kit with a high end in tank fuel pump.

[Just a Six?]

I'll bet Mac will give you a good price on this one I sold a few years ago.
Keep yours for a spare & use this one that will take a lickin & keep on Tickin! 
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-racers-toronto-surrounding-areas/107914-things-i-still-have-sale-engine-turbo-ecu-etc.html

[Steve Wood]

damn sure cannot build one for anywhere close to that

[Charlief1]

One thing to think about is building it like you want and using the TE-44 ect. If you think at a later date you're going to go with a bigger turbo then 60 lb injectors are a good idea, but when you upgrade to a larger turbo you'll need to upgrade the tranny, converter, and at least the chip.


Build the engine to hold up to low 10's and the injectors and fuel system at the same time, then put all the stuff you've got now. Get a full billet tranny built at the same time so you know it will hold up if you go bigger. The parts and labor isn't going to get less expensive later and if all you've got to do for an upgrade is to change a few things you're better off in the end.

[YGspider]

The whole goal with my plans is to basically refinish the whole car. after the engine is out I'm going to pull the interior as well and paint the floor with POR 15, all new sound deadening as well a new steering wheel. After that the car is getting a complete body job and repaint so I'm guessing the car will be down for at least 2 seasons so I have time to gather money and build parts up the way I want. Should I redo the car in the original color? Burgundy?
 
If I go with that engine you talk of Dave I would need at least a 3200 10" convertor for that cam? And to be honest noob question is that a roller cam? And are stock heads good for the 10's or would GN1's be needed? what's the big deal with them.

[Charlief1]

You can run posted stock iron heads into the 9's but it will be pushing things some.


Since you're planning on doing the body and interior don't do anything to the engine until you get that done. The reason I say that is because body work will take longer and having an engine sitting around not only takes up room but also can rust. Do the body/chassis work and then do the engine/tranny you can worry about the interior once everything else id sone.

[YGspider]

You can run posted stock iron heads into the 9's but it will be pushing things some.


Since you're planning on doing the body and interior don't do anything to the engine until you get that done. The reason I say that is because body work will take longer and having an engine sitting around not only takes up room but also can rust. Do the body/chassis work and then do the engine/tranny you can worry about the interior once everything else id sone.

Good advise about the body work, don't think I'll be seeing the 9's so I guess my iron heads will fair well.