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Messages - Joel Russo
31
« on: November 15 2013, 07:31:56 PM »
how much vacuum is the car making when idling?
I don't have a vacuums gauge, so how would I measure it?
32
« on: November 15 2013, 09:06:52 AM »
43-44 psi is where most (I think all) chips see static fuel pressure (idle rpm vacuum bias) around 700 rpm. 46 psi is static fuel pressure adjustment error (+2 psi) maybe. Your short term integrator should be driving learns closer to 128. With the static fuel pressure set to 44, pull the vacuum line off the regulator and your fuel pressure should be 38-39 psi. I wonder if you have a tear in the regulator diaphram or the spring is snagged/stuck. I wonder if a messed up return line could cause this?? 52 psi with the line off is not correct. The old KENNE BELL regulators seemed to work well and are meant to be rebuilt as necessary. If I sound like a nut case it's cause I am. Long day at work.
Had some time yesterday so I ran the car a bit. Rail mounted gauge reads 46 psi with vac line off, and only drops to 45 with the vac line on. Hood mounted gauge reads 52.5 psi with vac line off, and only drops to 52 with the vac line on. My scanmaster mil vols read 780-800 under boost in third gear. I have an old Kenne Bell fpr that was working fine when I took it off. Should I buy a new Pro Comp fuel gauge for the hood and see what it reads, or replace the Accufab with the Kenne Bell and see what gives. I'm thinking I'm in the correct range according to the scanmaster numbers, and probably have a bad gauge or two...
33
« on: November 14 2013, 10:33:27 PM »
I recently did the 980 springs on my engine that had original springs with cups. One of the best and cheapest mods I have done to car.
Assuming you have stock heads, where did you see improvement with the new springs?
34
« on: November 13 2013, 09:46:15 PM »
Thanks guys.
35
« on: November 13 2013, 03:37:52 PM »
I took a look at the inside of an accufab regulator and I'd be amazed if any of them work correctly.
You're the second person in two days that told me that about the Accufab...
So what regulator is the one to use?
36
« on: November 13 2013, 12:52:20 PM »
So I dug out an extra Auto Meter liquid filled Pro Comp fuel pressure gauge out of the extra race car crap, and decided to mount it on the hood to monitor the pressure under boost. I mocked up a plate, used some Pro Flo hose and Earl's fittings and made sure it didn't leak. I have a small gauge on the rail that I have been using for years to set the pressure....Ap pears as though I have a discrepency between the two. The rail mounted gauge reads 46 psi with the vac line off of the Accufab regulator. At idle with the vac line on and me sitting in the car, the hood mounted gauge reads 52 lbs. I ran the car a bit to make sure my pressure raises 1:1 under boost, and it does. At 10 psi boost, pressure is 62 lbs. Scanmaster tells me I'm at 780-800.. So, What gives?? 
37
« on: November 13 2013, 10:08:25 AM »
If you were to change valve springs on a stock motor with stock heads and cam.... would you use the Comp 980 or the Comp 981 springs?
980's are rated at 92lbs at 1.700 and the 981's are rated at 105lbs at 1.700"
When you change the springs, and eliminate the stock spring cup, do you need to use shims?
38
« on: November 12 2013, 06:38:24 AM »
Happy birthday, and thanks for all your help!
39
« on: November 06 2013, 06:14:42 AM »
Joel I'm nearly finished a pump gas motor with a few little twists. The secret to a pump gas engine is reducing heat, burn efficient and be cautious with spark. A pump gas engine that hauls is a little more interesting to do with the original LC2 cylinder heads.If your combo is listed correctly it appears like you are short on fuel pump volume.
Thanks for the detailed information. I am running the Walbro 255 w/Hotwire. I just updated my profile.... Would I still be short on fuel? Would new heads be a better choice to get the TE60 in it's range? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to understand and want to spend the money on the right parts...
40
« on: November 05 2013, 09:35:12 PM »
So it sounds like I need to turn up the boost in order to maximize what I already have as opposed to installing a new IC.
Apears as though the safest way to do that is to run alky??
41
« on: November 05 2013, 08:29:35 PM »
Don't want to run race gas or E85, just plain old 93. Used to run a different chip with race gas, and that was a pain in the ass. Trying to keep it simple these days.
So with the turbo I have, should I do the IC and the Alky ? Sounds like in order to turn up the boost, I should have either Alky or race gas. Since I don't want to run race gas, then is Alky in order?
Am I utilizing my turbo with only running 15-17 lbs of boost?
42
« on: November 05 2013, 11:53:40 AM »
43
« on: November 05 2013, 09:24:21 AM »
Gents~
I value your experience and opinions...Hel p me on this one.
I know it's all about combinations with these cars, so I have tried to put together a good combination thus far. Wanting to take the next step, and I think it may be the intercooler, thus my new thread. If I go with the intercooler, I want the stock location one.
I have read, and re-read the Intercooler section of the Combination Synergy page that Steve posted.
This is a 13K car that sees little to no track time. Stopped that years ago when the kids came into the picture.
TE-60, Walbro 255/hotwire, 60# injectors, TT5.7 chip, Accufab FP reg, RJC DP, Pypes 2.5" w/Race Pro mufflers, 2600 10" NL, built trans. The motor has not been opened up, stock heads, cam, valve springs....
Looking for that killer street combo with good driveability.
I have researched the GN1 and the PTE. Seems like two good pieces but the PTE is twice the price. I don't mind spending the money, but want to realize some gain over the cheaper priced one.
So where do I go from here? Is the intercooler the next logical step without opening up the motor? If not, then what next?
44
« on: November 03 2013, 09:13:23 PM »
Thanks gents.
45
« on: November 03 2013, 08:21:00 PM »
I've got a dealer replacement here and that's not one Steve. I've got several like that I bought off evilbay and never tried to check the pressure so they may be the same as stock but it's not a GM replacement.
So what the heck did the dealer install? Probably a cheap replacement that is adjustable. Don't plan on running boost over 20 lbs, so would a new HD unit benefit me?
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