Nice. I had thought about buying that panel Mark makes at one point. Its a nice piece. I am still using a kenne bell 6 switch plate that's been working just fine but the stock dash look is a lot nicer. In the switch plate I have a prime/test switch for the alky and a gauge on the cowl for pressure and a bunch of lights all over. (in dash and on switch plate). its better explained on my web page. I was at one point thinking of getting Julio's controller PAC and a 3 bar MAP to switch mine over to progressive hence the panel you bought, but my kit is working just fine the way it is for now running straight meth. In the future to come...we'll see.
I remember those Chlupsa kits. the first in car spray amount controller kit. A good concept tuning wise at the time. Steve Yaklin wanted me to create an in car controller to control the amount of alky being sprayed in and I just never did. Then Chlupsa's kit came out with one. I am still to this day using my style dual deadhead kit just different nozzles and pump than whats shown on my website.
My original pumps would seize up after a few years mainly from sitting and so I got tired of removing it and running CLR through it in a loop to clean it so I changed it for an E2000 style but then ran only M1 meth and no more seize after that. The nozzles got changed out also for full cone misting types used in a home heating furnace. I also made my own meth filter since I use a steel tank and there was some rust happening in there I got concerned so hence the filter. Obviously I cleaned out the tank before putting the filter inline to the pump and running straight meth. Guess what? no more rust happening. The rust was caused by the 91% alcohol and even the denatured alcohol had some water content I'm sure. Also another reason the original pump was starting to bind more often.
What changed in my setup is since 1998:
Pump - Global Automotive GA2000 inline puller pump that makes about 110psi.
Check valve - inline 40psi. My 10psi ones failed after time, viton or nitrile seals or not. We don't want meth sucked in when not in use do we? and since mine is not progressive the 40psi crack pressure is OK. Julio's 10 PSI check valves per nozzle are the way to go for progressive if you use 1 or 2 nozzles.
Misting nozzles - Hago Full Cone misting M5 and M10 from mcmaster carr around the year 2000 maybe 2001. Notice they add up to an M15.
So between 4psi and 13psi the M5 is on only. then at 14psi the M10 kicks in. All around 110psi pump pressure. OLD SCHOOL.
A little history follows:
A lot of people might know this but my original single kit was actually an original Jay Carter design using NOS fan spray nozzles with jets for tuning as seen on my website minus the pump brand/pressure/internals and added check valve. Jay had sold kits to some select people back in 97-98 including ME,and had told me at the first 1998 Buicks at Bristol that he was done putting the kits together to sell and told me I should continue selling them as he would not mind because it was a worth while concept that needed to continue. So I did. BUT, as everyone else has done, I improved on it and more so as the years went by. I always admired the fact that a steel under hood tank was the best way to go and safer. So the new nozzles, pump, higher 40psi check valve and tank float level did not got incorporated into my kits for sale because everyone was now buying the Chlupsa kit because of the in-car controller. If I had listened to Steve Yaklin I would have also been the first to sell an in-car controller kit, and continued to sell kits, but life goes on.
Who copied who?
I have a feeling the following company was inspired and may have collaborated with Steve.... and why I think it is.. Steve kept asking me for the solenoid part numbers so I caved and gave them to him since I wasn't selling kits any more. The solenoids were made by PeterPaul with Nitrile seals. Then all of a sudden I noticed a company making similar kits like mine and Chlupsa's with both our parts mixed in to make their kit. One was a deadhead staged kit with a 2nd nozzle and solenoid.
The following is not a vendor bashing statement nor am I upset in any way so here goes...
There is a kit out there by Snow Performance that to this day uses the same 50/50 meth to water mix Steve Yaklin used (I never did),misting nozzles, solenoids for a staged kit, and also the Chlupsa type pump and similar style in car controller, and the same plastic lines Steve Yaklin suggested I change to. Heck they even have a MAP progressive kit too like Julio's. And they might be selling those kits a lot but we all know Julio's are the best in today's times and a quality product.
Think about this for example: Plastic lines with push on connectors vs. Stainless braided line? well call me late for dinner..... I choose stainless braided line all day long!
So as you can see, Julio, Steve Chlupsa, and myself tried to improve on things and that is a good thing.
Most important is this lovely learning curve:
91% alcohol = worked decent at the time of alky kits inception
Denatured alcohol = worked better until they changed the mix to 48% meth 52% grain alcohol from 98/2%
VP M1 Methanol = pure race meth works the best and makes the most power
Don't ask how long it took to write this and re-read and make changes.
I'm blind and can't see straight.
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rattle when its closed before I go batty.
