This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - bryes
196
« on: March 05 2012, 11:08:02 PM »
A stock shortblock will easily run well into the elevens..
Be sure you check the pin areas of all pistons for cracks. Hopefully, luck will be smiling on you 
That's good to know about the stock block, they sound tough. I just have a phobia with cast cranks, I had one (Ford) crack in half a few years back. No problem, I'll hold off. To really check the bores correctly...cy linders and saddles...it's best to use a telescopic dial indicator. I recommend taking it to a machine shop for this...they should do it for free knowing that they're gonna get your business. A competent machinist can go thorough these procedures in a short period of time. The rod big ends are best checked on the Sunnen rod machine...as you can do a 360 degree sweep of the bore.
Hoping for the best, but planning for the worst (I have already bought jack stands and a creeper)! I've been trying to find a machine shop. I heard good reviews about one in Augusta, GA that is only a 2.5 hour drive who has experience with turbo buicks. You must have had different experiences with machine shops than I have because if I remember right, the one I went to wouldn't even touch anything until it had been tanked  Thanks again for all your help, I'll be sure to post updates.
197
« on: March 05 2012, 08:56:40 PM »
Hey guys, thanks for replying. OK I think this is the plan now. I'm working on having some mics and maybe even a dial bore gauge sent down here, which should take about a week I think. Then I'll be able to check the bores and crank journal myself, and see where we are. If they are too far out of spec, then it's a complete rebuild. But if not, then I'll try to use Scobum's piston if he hasn't thought better of it at that point  So Scobum, I don't want to inconvenience you just to wind up not using your piston. If it would be better for you to hold off on sending it until we see what path we're taking, then that suits me just fine. Or, if you want to just send it to a complete stranger, I'll be sure to return it if I don't use it so it doesn't go to waste! I now know how precious these stock pistons are! Thanks for bearing with me on this one everyone. Normally I might not be leaning so much in the direction of doing the minimum, I am in a very bad position right now because: 1. I am working a glorified temporary job down here and therefore only have very limited hand tools (I don't even have a jack), live in a rental and could be laid off at any time without warning. The quicker I can get it in one piece and running the better! 2. I haven't had the car long enough to decide what I really want to do with it. I think I want stock now, but am on the fence and find myself drooling at boost pressure. I might later on regret whatever I do now and would rather put off the decision until after I've had a chance to drive the car awhile and learn a lot more. Probably less money = less regrets right now if I choose the wrong route! Thanks everyone!
198
« on: March 04 2012, 07:21:20 PM »
If you wouldn't mind doing that Scoobum, I'd really appreciate it. I'd sure like to keep the option of not doing a full rebuild for a number of reasons. The motor supposedly has low miles, and to me everything else looks OK that I have seen so far. It's not a rececar and want to get out of this situation as easy as possible right now
199
« on: March 04 2012, 12:08:26 PM »
RUN FOREST RUN!!
Is that outside the Savannah Theater?
I think my wife saw that same show with her brother while I on a trip in South Dakota last fall.
Savannah is a nice place to live. We're just here temporarily on a business trip right now, but under the right circumstances we'd consider moving here permanently.
200
« on: March 03 2012, 10:07:03 PM »
Thanks everyone, I think the path forward is relatively clear now. Especially since I can't get a matching piston, the decision to rebuild the engine has really been made for me. I'll try to talk to earl about a machine shop near Savannah. Tomorrow I'll shift my focus to getting the motor out. Does anyone have any pointers? Is it best to pull with or without the trans?
Savannah GA? I LOVE it there!
Savannah is a nice place to live! While I am from NE Ohio where I own a home, I can't seem to stay employed there. At least I have been fortunate enough to find work in Savannah and San Diego 
201
« on: March 03 2012, 08:40:20 PM »
Well thanks for keeping me real then, I guess it really hasn't quite sunk in yet. I was really hoping to get out of this without pulling the motor!
Thanks for the advice everyone and if anyone thinks of other ideas, knows a good machinist in Savannah or has a decent motor, let me know.
202
« on: March 03 2012, 08:11:56 PM »
Sorry that was just plain bad writing. I should have said, hone out the cylinder and then install a new piston
203
« on: March 03 2012, 08:08:20 PM »
Wouldn't a crank being torn up be obvious when the rod was removed? I once had an engine that was run dry on oil, and it was obvious
204
« on: March 03 2012, 07:57:25 PM »
Oh, I think that's just debris from the head gasket and dirt. It does look like pitting in the picture now that I look at it, but I think it will clean up!
You don't think there is any chance of honing it out with a new piston?
I thought I might give it a shot.
205
« on: March 03 2012, 07:42:31 PM »
Ouch, that looks painful!
I'm assuming mine is standard bore, I don't think it's ever been apart before.
What makes you say my #2 looks bad?
It might be the way the picture was taken picture, because I think it looked about the same as #6 from what I remember. I could feel a small ridge at the top with some carbon buildup, but I think I could get the piston out without a ridge reamer.
206
« on: March 03 2012, 07:14:28 PM »
Well I have some good news and some bad news. The good news is that I have an excuse to buy some more tools! The bad news is that, as you can see below, I have a melted piston.
It might be harder to tell, but the buildup on the side of the cylinder is the aluminum melted from the piston. It's also splattered on the valves and head as well. It's hard to say how badly the cylinder is scored with the aluminum buildup there though, I'm just not sure. Nothing that makes me think it would be impossible to hone out.
Looks like the exhaust valve is torched pretty good also. The other two cylinders look to be normal to me. I'll have to work on getting the other head off tomorrow, but I don't think they are bad. Like the other 2 cylinders here, their spark plugs looked normal.
What does everyone think about my options at this point and what they would do??
Thanks!
207
« on: March 03 2012, 10:37:36 AM »
Thanks for the info everyone. Looks like I have more to consider than just whether to replace my valve springs or not!
Ok, I have an update on the oil situation. I stated before that there was no oil on either side of the turbo compressor, well as it turns out I was wrong. In the pictures below I indicated where I did see oil. I think I missed it before because it was dark and the oil had time to drain away. Also, I did find oil in the pipe to the throttle body (also pictured below).
I am hoping that this is a good indication that the seal in the turbo is bad, and could be the primary source of my oil control issues (and not broken rings or piston!!). Let me know what you think.
It is supposed to start raining here soon today so I received orders to get a few things done outside before working on the car. I'll hopefully still be able to get the head off later today and maybe post another update.
208
« on: March 01 2012, 10:17:43 PM »
Wow, thanks to everyone for their replies. This is some very helpful information. I'll be working on it more this weekend so we should know a lot more then. I've been taking pictures all along so I'll try and post some when I get a chance. Hopefully it'll be a chronicle for a successful repair, and maybe someone can keep me from doing something stupid.  Thanks to Guess and everyone for the information on the vendors and needed upgrades. A timing chain, (ARP?) head studs and water pump are definitely in my future. I'll be sure to order a VR 3797 head gasket too. Right now I'm about 80% power-logger and 20% scanmaster, I'll have to research it more to decide. As far as the fuel system goes, I'll definitely be buying a gauge and adjustable regulator. I think I'll take the advice and upgrade the injectors while I have the intake off. I have been reading that a 40 psi injector should be fine for a mild street car. I'd like to ask why a valve spring upgrade is needed, are the stock springs too light? After all I'm not planning on running 10's any time soon! ... Check to see if all the valves are closed properly.
...
Check each lifter base to make sure one is not scrubbed indicating that it lost a cam lobe as well.
...
Look in the up pipe to the throttlebody for oil from the turbo which is usually the case if the seal is gone. Smoke might be a result of a blown hg.
...
The valves look like they are properly closed to me (I have the VC off). I didn't t get the lifter out yet but I took a peek in there and the cam lobes looked normal from what I could see through the lifter valley holes. I'll be sure to check lifter bottoms though this weekend. Oh yeah, I should mention that I looked for head gasket damage in the lifter valley and couldn't see any. Hopefully it will be obvious once I get that last bolt out and take off the head. I forgot to look at the up-pipe while I was out there, but I did look at the compressor side of the turbo. Both inlet and outlet and everything in between seemed completely oil free. The exhaust /turbine side was noticeably coated with oil though. Maybe the oil I saw in the intake was, as sugested by earlbrown, coming through the stock pcv?? Welcome aboard.  Now that you're here where are you located? One of us may be near you and can help you out.
Thanks and I'm glad to be aboard! I'm in Savannah, GA .
209
« on: February 29 2012, 10:36:58 PM »
Hello everyone, A couple weeks ago I bought an '87 GN project (it turned out to be more of one then I was hoping for!), and now I a few questions. Any replies or reading suggestions would be much appreciated. I have begun reading Steve Wood's excellent tech section, but it looks like it will take a few reads through before it really sinks in.  In the meantime I would like to ask a few questions about my particular situation if someone wouldn't mind answering some newbie questions. The GN that I bought had been setting for the last decade. To get the car running again, the previous owner said that he changed plugs and wires, and I think the fuel pump. However, whoever did the work hooked up the plug wires in the wrong order. Thinking the problem was a "dirty" injector he proceeded to "clean out the injectors" , by driving the car. During this "cleaning", the car started smoking what I am judging to be blue oil smoke. When I started working on the motor I discovered that the middle PS cylinder had 0 compression. I also noticed that the spark plug electrode was burnt maybe halfway off. Since then, I have started to remove the head to repair what I am hoping is a burnt Ex. valve. Additionally, I think the turbo might have a blown seal. I noticed that it was weeping oil right above the oil return line and there is oil residue in the intake Manifold (Before pcv inlet, so I think it could only be from the turbo). When I get it fixed I intend to use the car just to cruise with. I am open to some performance upgrades that wont hurt driveability / reliability if anyone has suggestions. My questions are as follows: 1: Any ideas, suggestions, similar experiences, etc..?? 2. Now that I will soon have the heads off, what other components should I look into replacing and suggestions on where and what to buy? As it stands right now I will also be replacing the timing chain and water pump. Any additional pointers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Bryes '87 GN, 51k miles (not verified)
|
Show Posts