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Messages - dyermullet
16
« on: August 18 2015, 01:39:17 PM »
Try changing the hoses first.
17
« on: August 18 2015, 01:38:00 PM »
Do a search on tb.com I read there are two companies making them now, I don't remember the details.
I bought one on ebay that was a leftover of the original group buy. The stock metal pulley rubs on the body of the tensioner, not enough clearance. I compared it to 2 factory ones to confirm. I marked the interference area and I plan to use a die grinder to clearance. Just haven't had time to finish working on it.
Moral of the story don't expect it to just be a bolt on.
18
« on: July 08 2015, 12:14:06 PM »
First thing get rid of the off delay relay. When it fails it drains your battery dead. Just unplug it it will not interfear with low or high speed fan operation.
From reviewing the drawing, the off delay relay could be causing your fan to be on, the high pressure AC switch could be stuck closed, the high temp switch on the intake could be stuck closed, any of the three relays could be stuck closed, or you have a ground signal to a relay coil that is shorted to ground causing the relay to close.
Unplug the off delay relay first and then test.
If still have problem unplug AC high pressure switch
If still have problem unplug one at a time high speed relay, then low speed relay. Findout which one is causing the fan to run then you can test further.
19
« on: July 08 2015, 12:01:10 PM »
20
« on: June 08 2015, 04:29:52 PM »
Where do i buy black caulking strips.
Mine fell apart and was full of mouse shit so it was disposed.
21
« on: June 08 2015, 08:55:17 AM »
Lowes or home depot kind of item?
22
« on: June 07 2015, 11:37:53 PM »
sorry
delete this one also
23
« on: June 07 2015, 11:31:43 PM »
delete please
24
« on: June 07 2015, 11:25:41 PM »
pressure PSI is generated by the MC and is constant no matter what the calipers are. The amount of force applied at the caliper is the result of its total piston area. I want to replicate the pedal force and travel of the OEM g-bod system. But as a comparison can calculate the blazer system, but it won't be apples to apples since different boosters.
So far if the numbers I have found are correct should be very little effect on the pedal. Maybe my increase in felt pedal pressure is from swapping to stainless lines from rubber.
I also want to see how the factory system compares to the recommended working pressures of the aftermarket companies.
26
« on: June 07 2015, 10:10:24 PM »
I want to put together some good brake system numbers. Possibly when this is complete can re-post to the knowledge base.
For now I am just going to focus on the factory GM g-body vacuum brake system.
I have converted my car to the blazer front brakes, and S-10 rear wheel cylinders. I want to put the numbers together for the OEM setup as a baseline, and then compare to the blazer brake and S-10 wheel cylinders. I didn't notice a pedal feel difference going to s-10 wheel cylinders but after the blazer brakes I now have more pedal effort. The exercise is to calculate the different in pedal effort and travel before and after, with the moving the system closer to the feel of the original.
Here is the equations I have put together so far.
Line pressure (psi) = Leg Force (LB) X Pedal Ratio / MC Area (in^2)
MC volume displaced (in^3) = MC stoke (in) X MC area (in^2)
Force at Caliper (lb) = line pressure (psi) X caliper piston area (in^2)
MC stroke (in) = caliper stroke (in) * caliper area (in^2) / MC area (in^2)
I am not concerned with the amount of force added by the vacuum booster because it is a constant/unchanged between both system.
Average leg pressure applied to pedal is between 100-150 lb. I will use 100 in the equations
Pedal ratio is a constant between the systems, but I will enter the actual value.
I searched for over an hour on tb.com and could not find where anyone has posted the pedal ratio of the factory vacuum brake pedal. Does anyone know if not I will try to measure mine this week.
G-bodyMC bore is 15/16" - Someone please confirm and it is a single bore 15/16" for both halfs or is the MC dual bore?
Stock calipers piston 2 1/2"
Blazer calipers 46mm piston X2
This is only a 4% increase in area so that equals a 4% increase in pressure on the caliper to the pad.
g-body rear wheel cylinder 3/4"
S-10 rear wheel cylinder 7/8"
I will start searching and filling in the values as I find them.
G-body vacuum disk brake system front:
Line pressure (psi) = 100 (LB) X Pedal Ratio / 0.6899 (in^2)
MC volume displaced (in^3) = MC stoke (in) X 0.6899 (in^2)
Force at Caliper (lb) = line pressure (psi) X 4.906 (in^2)
MC stroke (in) = caliper stroke (in) * 9.812 (in^2) / 0.6899 (in^2)
Blazer disk brake conversion front:
Line pressure (psi) = 100 (LB) X Pedal Ratio / MC Area (in^2)
MC volume displaced (in^3) = MC stoke (in) X MC area (in^2)
Force at Caliper (lb) = line pressure (psi) X 5.14 (in^2)
MC stroke (in) = caliper stroke (in) * 10.28 (in^2) / 0.6899 (in^2)
G-body vacuum drum brake system rear:
Line pressure (psi) = 100 (LB) X Pedal Ratio / MC Area (in^2)
MC volume displaced (in^3) = MC stoke (in) X MC area (in^2)
Force at drum (lb) = line pressure (psi) X .8224 (in^2)
MC stroke (in) = caliper stroke (in) * caliper area (in^2) / MC area (in^2)
S-10 wheel cylinder conversion rear:
Line pressure (psi) = 100 (LB) X Pedal Ratio / MC Area (in^2)
MC volume displaced (in^3) = MC stoke (in) X MC area (in^2)
Force at drum (lb) = line pressure (psi) X 1.202 (in^2)
MC stroke (in) = caliper stroke (in) * caliper area (in^2) / MC area (in^2)
27
« on: June 07 2015, 01:46:23 PM »
Are you coming up to temple? Id love to see it run and meet you.
My goal was to start going to the track again this summer, but car is still not ready. Hopefully in the next month or so I will be ready to hit a test and tune, then go one from there.
28
« on: June 07 2015, 10:34:14 AM »
On the exhaust parts use a thin smear of ultra high temp gold/copper color rtv, not the red.
If you do use gaskets on the exhaust manfold give them a smear also. My car only needs the gasket on the ds. No gasket on ps side, no gasket at turbo flange.
29
« on: June 07 2015, 10:17:56 AM »
Sorry the heater core and evaperator core box.
I am trying to avoid just silicone glueing it down. I dont want it to break sometime when i remove.
30
« on: June 06 2015, 01:25:45 PM »
The gasket between the two halfs was destroyed when I took the top off the air box. Any ideas of what I can use to replace it?
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