My 1986 Grand National (re) Build Thread

[GavinHunyady]

Finally got around to watching the video log. Car sounds and looks good!

Got your grill spring in there too... 

[Steve Wood]

Nope, Brad, you are right.  The cooler would probably be beneficial in the conditions that Gavin mentioned, or if you were continually hot lapping the car, but about all it does for the average guy is making the coolant run about ten degrees hotter.

[Scoobum]

Gavin...nice work in the glovebox.

[GavinHunyady]

Nope, Brad, you are right.  The cooler would probably be beneficial in the conditions that Gavin mentioned, or if you were continually hot lapping the car, but about all it does for the average guy is making the coolant run about ten degrees hotter.

Since you probably use your car about the same as I do and in texas, I'll consider the oil cooler not required... and I've already deleted it. Tired of chasing oil puddles around already.


New problem is that I realized why the under hood light wasnt working, same reason the radio and dome lights werent working. Now to track down the short that is causing the blown fuse.

[Steve Wood]

Cig-Clk    Antenna relay, AC control head, radio capacitor, security indicator, chime module, instrument cluster (digital), radio, cigar lighter, glove box lite, engine compartment lite, footwell courtesy lites, power door locks, dome lights, trunk lites, vanity mirror lites, BAT terminal.  These circuits used an orange wire for power supply.


I'm getting old...but wasn't that usually the cigarette lighter socket that always caused that fuse to blow?

[daveismissing]

Best thing I ever did was put a self resetting cct breaker in that fuse slot

[GavinHunyady]

here's what I found, I've been unplugging things and poking around to look for the issue. So it looks like the headliner needs to come down to find the short. I forget, where is the harness that goes up to the roof with the dome light in it? I might unplug it as a field fix, I'll unplug the cig lighter also to see if that fixes it. I have continuity to ground at the vanity mirror plug also, so I fear the whole wiring up there is shorted to ground.

[Steve Wood]

I think it was the socket, itself, that was the problem on the lighter...mayb e not.  Should be some posts on the forums about blowing this fuse

[Scoobum]

There's a knack for getting that headliner out. Take your time...the backer board snaps real easy.

[GavinHunyady]

yup, had to do it when the fabric got replaced.


EDIT: turns out the vanity mirror is shorting, took it apart and couldnt see any obvious arcing or anything. So we'll roll without any lights in that for now.

[GavinHunyady]

Does anyone have an autometer electric fuel pressure gauge plumbed into your powerlogger? I want to make sure I'm doing this right. Watching the gauge I seem to be keeping up with boost, but in my data log it looks like I'm about 15psi fuel per 20psi boost. I'll change the fuel filter this weekend to play it safe, but I figured I better make sure that the data logger is set up correctly.


I didnt think to have the wife record video of the gauges with her phone, but just from watching I would guess its close.


AFRs in the 10-12 range, bringing the alky on around 5psi, and I have it set to run full pump current at 20psi. No KR, but I've got the timing pulled way back, only 15* at WOT. I'm trying to be conservative. 


I'm not really stumped or anything, but I'd be happy to take a second opinion on some logs just to make sure I'm not missing anything. Admittedly I've driven the car more in the last week than I had in the previous 7years. Man it feels good to have the car back out on the road!
 

[Steve Wood]

Lately, I have seen a few good comments about the autometer gauge, but, I remember quite a few negative comments a few years ago.

Is it in agreement at idle?

Attach your logs and we can look at them

[motorhead]

Look at the offset voltage in the PL, you may need to adjust it.  I always zeroed out my pressure transducers using the offset voltage; meaning you may have to bleed pressure off at the rail after going key-on.  After that you can easily determine if pressure is going up 1:1.

[TexasT]

How does the power logger hook up to the autometer gauge? I'm guessing the gauge has a transducer and the powerlogger just piggybacks on that same transducer.  Does it(the transducer) just screw into the end of the rail? Any pix of the setup? Thanx

[Steve Wood]

You run the signal wire from the transducer that screws into the end of the rail to the appropriate PL terminal.   The transducer also has power and ground connections