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Messages - GavinHunyady
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31
« on: June 14 2016, 09:50:20 AM »
I've never run anything but pure 100% Meth in Julio's kit (1 pump rebuild in 8 yrs) Akycontrol is the best kit hands down for our Buicks IMO
I wouldn't be so sure of that, lots of people are successful with lots of different kits and builds. I also don't like the upsell when I talked to him on the phone, "you need to replace this and that... and we don't trust those controllers anymore." I get it, better safe than sorry, but I didn't appreciate the tone of the discussion. He consistently said he couldn't stand behind his own product unless I spent more money. On the other hand, it just seemed slippery to me to imply that if I updated everything to his specs I would somehow be "protected"... yeah right, no matter what happens to my car its my fault in the end! He's not going to pay for anything that gets damaged if the kit fails regardless of how much money I spend! I'll start my own thread if you think it is warranted but I have some alcohol questions. DO NOT PUMP FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS DO NOT PUMP MORE THAN 50/50 MIX OF ALCOHOL AND WATER MORE THAN 50% ALCOHOL IS A FLAMMABLE LIQUIDThis is prominently posted at the devils own site in the link above. I was under the impression that the alcohol injected in the kits sold for our cars squirted straight alcohol. Am I mistaken? Those warnings are just to make their lawyers and the DOT happy... its polyethylene, the same material as the other tanks and the coolant jug, works just fine with straight methanol. They use a "safe" mixture with 50% water because that's non-flammable. I carry 30gallons around in my race trailer in jugs made from the same stuff... never had a jug melt due to chemical corrosion. Just like this fuel jugs that are used for "automotive fluid" http://www.ruralking.com/5-gallon-polyethylene-fluid-container.html?fee=2&fep=93903&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KEQjw1v66BRCV-6rh6s-Biu8BEiQAelpui2K77m6ElBkfmwle1xGFng-tzxELA1YKxVbHKJWNW6AaAgkC8P8HAQPolyethylene has very good chemical resistance to methanol, nothing to worry about. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/peh-chemical-resistance-d_329.html
32
« on: June 13 2016, 02:22:23 PM »
It's been over a year since I've been in there... but don't think I touch those plugs, shortblock stayed together. I did put a new set of pump gears in and resurface the oil filter adapter. I forget the measured clearance. I dont recall the pressure relief spring setting either... so I might have to look into that.
Yeah sender is right at the block near the pump, on the T to the turbo. I'm going to pull the sender out and screw in a fitting to run a mechanical gauge. I'll run it with a drill motor and check pressure before I fire it back up.
33
« on: June 13 2016, 10:18:14 AM »
Where are you guys mounting the tank? I was planning to go back to the stock coolant reservoir (using it for the actual coolant overflow) and re-plumb my alkycontrol kit to use a tank like this one: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/tanks/256-3-quart-tank.htm maybe mounted behind the driver's side headlight in the faux battery tray. Then move my pump to the driver's side bumper bracket... which I intend to make a nicer bracket for anyhow.
34
« on: June 13 2016, 09:58:17 AM »
I'm guessing the pump was packed with vaseline or something to get it to prime. I don't know how long it sat but I soak lifters in some stp treatment after disassembly, cleanout and reassembly of the lifter . Some break in lube on the cam . I know you have your own "tricks" with your race engines. The lifters might just be dry. Have you broken in the cam? Maybe pull the cam sensor and spin it with the drill with a vc off to make sure it is pulling oil up. If not repack the pump and try again. It at least that's what I would do.
Lifters and cam are all new, and were soaked, also primed the engine with a drill motor, checked at the turbo line for oil pumping. That's not in the upper end circuit though. I hadnt run it with a valve cover off to see if oil is coming up through the pushrods, thats an idea. Also hadn't broken in the cam yet, between the noise and the oil light I wasnt going to let it run for 30minutes until I verified that I have oil pressure.
35
« on: June 13 2016, 09:05:37 AM »
Usually loctite 577 is what I use, but I'm not afraid to use tape.
36
« on: June 13 2016, 08:57:29 AM »
its definitely leaking between the case and the adapter, not between the line and the adapter.
37
« on: June 13 2016, 07:47:13 AM »
Yup, cam sensor was off, I must have put my mark at 25* BTDC instead of ATDC. Fired right up.
Now on to the next problems, trans cooler line adapter leaks at the trans case, and low oil pressure light is on.
I'll rig up a gauge to see what the actual oil pressure is. I did prime it with a drill, though that was some time ago. As a result (I hope) the lifters are SUPER noisy, that has me really concerned.
I took apart the trans cooler lines, and the brass adapter looks ok, I wasnt sure what to expect. It doesnt look like it seals on the threads but rather the slightly conical shape of the seat. Anyone have advise for these things? Is there supposed to be a crush washer?
38
« on: June 03 2016, 09:57:14 AM »
ok, got the fuel pressure set by running the pump of the diag wire...
but something is off time, it chugs and stumbles... I'll check the cam and crank sensors..
39
« on: June 01 2016, 03:20:49 PM »
yup  Already printed it out to take it home. 
40
« on: June 01 2016, 01:28:48 PM »
oh man, I'm finally done with the wiring... connected the WB02, PL and all the interior is back together. I finally got the brakes to bleed, I had a collapsed hose on the RF, I also put new drums on the rear because I didnt have a good way to measure the aluminum drums that I had. I figure if they are still good they wont go bad sitting on the shelf. Anyhow, in the most anti-climactic way possible... I got a no start once I finished up last night. Fuel pressure looks a little low <30psi, I hadnt set the regulator yet. I also noticed the fuel pump wasnt as loud as I expected/remembered. I did get injector pulse on the noid light while cranking and I did spark... so I'm thinking its fuel related but ran out of time (energy) for more trouble shooting last night. (also didnt check batt voltage, but had the charger on it for a while) It did sound like it stumbled or popped a little while cranking, maybe as if it was off time. Its been a long time since I put the cam sensor in, I'm pretty sure I got it in correctly, but I've made bigger mistakes. Anyhow, I've got some troubleshootin g to do: - double check plug wires
- check battery voltage
- check voltage at fuel pump (hotwire fuse maybe?)
- set fuel pressure regulator with fuel pump running by hotwiring the test plug (is there a better way?)
- replace fuel filter if 43psi cant be met (not sure what else to do)
- check cam sensor timing
- anything else I'm missing other than the obvious grounds and connections (though the pulse and spark makes me think I'm OK)
41
« on: May 25 2016, 12:28:57 PM »
I see they have "steering quickiner" boxes that increase 2:1 for $100. Anyone try these? Seems like a great solution to the sluggish response of our steering. For the price I think I gotta give these a shot
I've ran these a lot, they are good for a racecar, but I suspect the lack of feel and increased ratio would cause a high speed "wander" on the highway that would get very annoying. I think I have one of these laying around too, you'd need to find a solid chassis mount for it somewhere and need to cut a section out your steering column to replace with it. overall its not real practical on a street car.
42
« on: May 25 2016, 12:26:11 PM »
I run them in roundy round cars, they work well. I think there are a lot more than 2 ratios.
I'm not sure what feel you are looking for, but I also have a newer style 600 box that is 8:1 ratio from Turn One, which does a lot of high end racing boxes. They are over $2000 new, I'd sell this one for $1000 if you are interested.
Aluminum or iron case?
Iron with an aluminum top plate.
43
« on: May 12 2016, 09:23:26 AM »
I run them in roundy round cars, they work well. I think there are a lot more than 2 ratios.
I'm not sure what feel you are looking for, but I also have a newer style 600 box that is 8:1 ratio from Turn One, which does a lot of high end racing boxes. They are over $2000 new, I'd sell this one for $1000 if you are interested.
44
« on: February 15 2016, 10:20:07 AM »
thats not a bad idea! I've already loomed up a harness and extended all the wires, it just needs to find a home.
45
« on: February 13 2016, 09:54:15 PM »
BTW, does anyone know where to find the connector for the turn signal stalk?
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