jason's education thread

[Steve Wood]

don't think you are moving the fuel too fast.  That would be a first.

Pretty sure the changing fuel pressure is either the regulator or the gauge

[Scoobum]

If it were me I'd try another AFPR. Don't get hung up trying to get the BLM's to 128 at idle. MIne is at 118...engine purrs like a kitten...and has perfect throttle response. Drives like a stocker.

[Steve Wood]

X2

Don't worry about the the blm not being 128 at this point.   118 is well within the correction range of the ecm and means it has been corrected.

If you are using one of those little gauges that screw on the end of the fuel rail to set the fuel pressure with, then there is a 70% chance that it is the problem.  those gauges are basically useless.

If you are using a quality pressure gauge on a hose, then I would suspect that it's about 70% the regulator.

If you can tap on the gauge and the pressure changes, then the gauge probably has some debris in it...

The O2's should be very steady at warmed up idle.  Be sure the scanmaster is showing the correct coolant temp.  If it does not show correctly and is way low, then the ecm will not go into closed  loop....As I said above, after the first start on a reset chip, the idle O2s should bounce around like the car is in closed loop but when you turn it off and restart it, the idle should be a modified open loop and be quite steady.   

Need to get it to do this correctly before doing much else.  O2's should be about 780-800 on a hot engine at idle...I can usually use this as an indicator and set the fuel pressure very close to 43 psi without even using a gauge.

Again, I ask what is the voltage on the scantool when you are cranking the engine to start it?

[good2win22]

X2

Don't worry about the the blm not being 128 at this point.   118 is well within the correction range of the ecm and means it has been corrected.

If you are using one of those little gauges that screw on the end of the fuel rail to set the fuel pressure with, then there is a 70% chance that it is the problem.  those gauges are basically useless.

If you are using a quality pressure gauge on a hose, then I would suspect that it's about 70% the regulator.

If you can tap on the gauge and the pressure changes, then the gauge probably has some debris in it...

The O2's should be very steady at warmed up idle.  Be sure the scanmaster is showing the correct coolant temp.  If it does not show correctly and is way low, then the ecm will not go into closed  loop....As I said above, after the first start on a reset chip, the idle O2s should bounce around like the car is in closed loop but when you turn it off and restart it, the idle should be a modified open loop and be quite steady.   

Need to get it to do this correctly before doing much else.  O2's should be about 780-800 on a hot engine at idle...I can usually use this as an indicator and set the fuel pressure very close to 43 psi without even using a gauge.

Again, I ask what is the voltage on the scantool when you are cranking the engine to start it?

Made it to the salvage yard.  Found an alternator out of a roadmaster. $25 bucks.  Had it tested and then installed it.  Volts have yet to go below 14.2 at the alternator.  Volt meter showing same.  Scanmaster is bouncing between 13.9-13.6 Checked and cleaned the ground strap at the transmission to firewall.  Added a ground strap from the intake to the firewall.  Added a ground strap from the alternator case to the fender next to the fan relay.  Added a ground strap from the tank to the bottom of the trunk.  Voltage at hot wire is 13.8.  Had a .5 drop before adding the grounds and now the drop is .4 volts.

Voltage on scanmaster while starting the engine didn't go below 10.7.  Checked it about 5 different times to confirm.

I have an autometer fuel pressure guage mounted on the hood connected by a steel braided hose. Tapping on the gauge has no effect.  Reset the fuel pressure to 43, went for a drive with engine still in closed loop at idle.  Got back to the house, killed the engine and restarted so chip would go into open loop at idle.  Hoping to attach video, or at least a link to the video ,of O2's on the scanmaster while idling.  I would like to know if you consider the numbers to be steady after watching the video...  Here's the link:   http://youtu.be/jW4aqTZez20

Coolant temp is in the 160's on the scan master.  Scanmaster has a dot that flashes when in open loop and is steady bright when in closed loop.  It functions as it's suppose to at idle when water temp comes up and when after resetting the chip.

[Steve Wood]

99% of that looked as I would expect it.  I saw two or three blips where it fell out for some reason for a frame.

I don't think I would worry about them as long as the car is idling smoothly.  Somewhere, I posted Eric's programmed conditions but I think yours is okay at this point.  I always suggest ohming the coil packs when hot to see if they all read 11-13K ohms...if they don't you are more likely to notice a miss under boost at higher rpm.

Even tho the chip is in open loop at idle, it will still learn and make some adjustment to the fueling to ensure that the open loop is very close to what closed loop would provide as an average.

Have the BLMS moved any?

Damn, I would buy a dozen of those alternators at that price!    Now, go out with the lights on and get on it to see if the bat volts are higher than they were before.  As I had said before, I think, rigging a meter to the back of the alternator and driving it at wot will show if the alternator is holding up as it should...you can also check the voltage on A6 the same way and see how it compares on your meter to what the scantool is showing.  I have seen more than one that would read a higher voltage on the meter than the scantool and I have seen the scantool change the reading when the ecm was swapped while the voltage going in was the same.  I don't get too upset as long as I know the pump is getting good voltage and there is good voltage going to the ecm even if it claims otherwise.

That alternator puts out a lot more current at low rpm than does the factory alt.

[good2win22]

BLMs at idle are now at 133.


I'll check the voltage at the ecm and the coil packs tomorrow and report back.

[Steve Wood]

Sounds like everything is pretty close...One less horse to flog

[good2win22]

Too cold for this Texas boy... haven't check the coils or ECM. 
 
I have been online looking at axles.  Moser part # A102808.  Cheapest I can find is 260 for the pair from Moser.  Anybody have another source?

[Steve Wood]

too cold for me, too.

The posi in mine went out so I replaced it with a 30 spline Eaton unit and used 30 spline Mosers that I bought from someone that had bought them to install but never had...I guess look in all the usual places

[nocooler]

Stock axles should live as long as you don't wheel hop the crap out of it.....

If you are going to drag race it a lot - look into c-clip eliminators, or have ford ends put on the housing. Disc brakes will also keep the axle from ejecting

[Charlief1]

If you decide to go 30 spline tell me before you do Jason. We can work out a trade with the axle I've got torn down and have all new bearings and shims to set it back up.

[TexasT]

The guys on the v8 site seem to like this place. He sells on eBay and from his place. He goes by monzaz on the forums I have seen him on. Seems to be quite knowledgeable.


http://jdrace.com/presta/index.php?id_category=12&controller=category

[motorhead]

I used to buy all my stock replacement axles from Superior Axle... but, they went under. Good value for money too.

Seems Moser (and maybe Strange and Yukon) are the only game in town now.

[good2win22]

I'd like to go with the bigger 30 spline axle but eaton is proud of their posi unit.  Gotta save some dough before going that route. What do you have in mind for a trade Charlie?  Goal is for a 10 second street able car.  How's the noise with that eaton you have Steve? 


Doesn't make any sense building my engine without the supporting driveline and my driving technique isn't exactly repeatable at the lights. What about going the 9 inch route?  Thats a lot of cash too

[Scoobum]

Auburn Pro Series and 28 spline Mosers here. Oh...and custom aluminum driveshaft...t hink it's 4 inch.