A list of questions.

[Turbo Regal Toad]

OK. So. I posted this on another site with no responses other than a "Thanks Anyway" I put up there. So here goes...

I recently started working on my 84 T-Type (87 GN drive train).
 I was pretty sure the fuel tank was low when I had parked it years ago.
 I put 2-3 gallons of premium in it. Hooked a battery up to it and cycled the fuel pumps (it's a old school setup). Anyway. No fuel came out the fuel rail. I was able get it to fire for a few seconds on a starting fluid. Oil light stayed on.
 
 Ok. So. now I know....
 #1. Fuel pump inline works. But I hear nothing from the 1 in the tank. Even with a direct hookup to a battery. So. I'll change that 1 out as I had planned on getting rid of both of them and going with a walbro 340.
 But before I drop the new pump into the tank I will drain the tank and clean it as well.
 Questions... As I siphoned the gas out. I noticed a white residue on the siphon hose when retracted from the tank.
 What could the white residue be?
 What is the best way to clean the tank?
 What chemicals or special stuff would I need?
 Any special tricks to installing the walbro pump?
 Any special stuff needed to clean the fuel lines to and from the tanks?
 Should I clean the vent line as well?
 What about the fuel rail?
 
 I was going to reverse flush the fuel lines from the point of the line going into the fuel rail to where the inline pump is. Then from that point to the hoses on top of the tank.
 This sound ok?
 What kind of cleaner should I use?
 
 I should point out.... I don't know who put the inline fuel pump on there. But... From what I can see. It was put inline where the fuel filter should be.
 About 1-2 foot in front of the driver side rear wheel.
 That about right?
 If so. I will have to find a way to repair the line so I can put a filter back on it.
 Also.
 Exactly what connectors are used to active the "fuel pump prime"?
 I found a green connector behind the alternator. I also found another connector that has 2 wires going to it behind the alt. They do fit together.
 Are these the 2 connectors that are used to cycle the in tank pump?
 Where do they lead to?
 
 The thing is that connector with the 2 wires currently has a wire hooked to it that runs the inline pump.
 
 Ok. Onto the next issue.
 
 #2. I pulled the ecm wire. Removed the oil filter and cranked it over. Just a couple drops visible when it has been cranked for a few seconds.
 So. I have to re-prime the oil pump to get pressure back.
 From what I have heard. I can remove a oil cooler hose, and dump oil into the hose to help prime it. Then I am suppose to remove the cam sensor. Insert a oil pump primer tool. turn it counterclockwi se to pull the oil from the hose into the pump. Then turn it clockwise to make the pump spin the right direction and go until the drill bogs down from when the oil pump starts pumping. I then run it for a few seconds. Stop. Then rotate the crank 90* and run it some more. I am suppose to do this till I get back to where I started.
 
 Questions....
 Is the above steps correct?
 Am I missing anything?
 Should I change the oil and filter to start with fresh or would it be ok to get it started on the oil that's in there and change it after she fires and runs?
 
 I know in my heart it should be changed. But. I'd like opinions on it.
 
 I am sure I will have many other questions on trying to get it going.
 If any of you have something to add, or other tips on these issues. I would gladly appreciate them. Thank you all in advance and have a nice weekend.

[Steve Wood]

Matt, too many questions for one old brain

I think the white powder is what results when gasoline with ethanol separates after sitting for awhile and the ethanol then combines with water and finally evaporates...t he white crap is left behind as the alcohol and water corrode the surfaces the mix was touching..  Note, I said "think".  I have seen it before in carbs and such.

As far cleaning it up, I have not seen anything advertised for the problem.  I guess I would start with fresh gas and see if it will lift it.  In the old days, radiator shops had stuff to clean out as gas tanks.  I know you can buy coatings that you pour in and slosh around to seal rust, etc. in the tank but I have never used one.   A new Spectra tank is about $150 from Rock Auto and a new, or a better used tank might be the best solution.

I would suggest reverse flushing all the lines.  Ed may have a better suggestion than gas.   The injectors are going to need cleaning for sure and even more so if there was no filter on the car...some times things are just unbelievable.  Blow some gas thru the rail and hope you get the rust, etc out of it.  You might talk to Chuck Leeper (The Ol Buzzard) and see what he thinks about cleaning stuff out since he is the injector cleaner and a lot smarter than me. Drop him a pm and ask him his thoughts

Yes, the filter is in front of the rear tire, drivers side  http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/fuelfilter.html

You will probably have to buy the Dorman fuel line repair kit which comes with 3/8" tubing to fix the hack job.

No, the two connectors do not plug together....Th e one with the green connector (was thinking it had two white wires) is the tach test connector.  You can connect a tach to it.  The other connector should have a gray wire on it and if you put 12 volts to it, the pump should run.  Normally it would run the pump in the tank.  Given someone butchered this one, it may, or may not.   The green tach connector has a tach signal on it and should not run anything.

If you can get the oil cooler line off, take the one that is marked "To oil cooler" in the third picture down on this page  http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm

Pour oil down it back into the adapter until it will not hold any more.  This should fill up the oil pump so it is primed.  Take all the spark plugs out, squirt some oil in every cylinder to try to lube the cylinder walls a bit.  Disconnect the orange ecm memory connector before you crank it.  Also, take a new oil filter, pour as much oil in it as you can, and then spin it on so you have a full oil filter.  Do all this before you crank the engine over without the plugs in it.  This should start the pump pumping and get oil going thru the engine again.   If you don't quickly see oil pressure, do it again. The reason you disconnect the orange ecm memory wire is to keep from hurting the ignition module which can happen if the plug wires are not connected to the plugs which have to be grounded as well....Normal ly there is no need to mess with the cam sensor altho some might say it was a good idea on an engine that has not run in years....being you have already cranked it over, I am not sure it makes any difference.  Your technique sounds right to me if you go that route

Reconnect the orange wire when you are finished.

I would change the oil...no sense pumping oil contaminated with water thru the engine.  I might even put a can of EOS in the oil to try to give the lifters a break to minimize scrubbing on a dry start.

[Steve Wood]

Beyond taking the tank to a radiator place to have it "dunked", something like acetone will clean out gum, goo, etc....

[earlbrown]

Be prepared for a rusty fuel tank. Been there, done that.

When you get your fuel lines fixed, buy a bunch of fuel filters as you'll be changing them often.  Muriatic acid seemed to work pretty good on the rust and it gets along with the plastic tank baffles.
  Try and get a hold of some bad ass rare earth magnets (old hard drives will do in a pinch) and stick them on the bottom of the pump holder. Any rust that sticks to the magnet won't be clogging the sock, the filter or going through the pump.

I'd just replace the injectors with new ones. The cost of cleaning plus shipping X2 is so close to new injectors it's almost a no brainer.

[Steve Wood]

a modern chip and matching injectors is a good investment if you have a chip that is a few years old-lotsa improvements