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Messages - ULYCYC

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1
To add to what Steve said. Torque values were based on hardware made years ago. The garbage around today regardless of grade will fail if over tightened. If the original hardware is still good, clean it up and use it. Much better then what came with the new parts.

2
IHADAV8 Playground / Re: Covid 19 in Texas
« on: April 17 2021, 03:49:54 PM »
After the 1st and 2nd Moderna shot I had bacon and eggs for breakfast, Grilled cheese and tomato sandwich for lunch and bbq  burgers and sausage for dinner. I feel this is the reason I had zero reactions to the shots.

3
General Buick Tech / Re: Shipping my Buick
« on: April 10 2021, 10:48:53 AM »
If the car needs to be driven on/off any type of ramps you may have issues with low rpm limits. Just a thought.

4
General Buick Tech / Re: Legroom
« on: March 30 2021, 05:27:43 PM »
Yes it's quiet easy. Best to find a a used  power G-body seat complete.Some junk yards sell just the lower cushion. Just unbolt from cushion and bolt to your seat. All holes and mountings are the same. You will have to supply fused power to the seat.  Also cut the fabric and foam on the side of your cushion to mount the switch assembly.

5
General Buick Tech / Re: Legroom
« on: March 30 2021, 04:36:23 PM »
Years ago when I converter mine to a power seat I gained about 2 inches over the standard track

6
Tool works most of the time but many are stubborn and need sawzall or impact chisel.  If your car spent most of the time garaged and didn't see much bad weather  then above tool should work 

7
With the body on jacks and rear end supported with a floor jack. Disconnect the shocks and lower. The spring should just fall out unless they are after market load levelers. Remove them or they will find your head and it hurts.  The hardest problem is removing the upper bushings from the rear end housing. You will need a press or I find it easier cutting it out with a sawzall. Some upper arms come without the housing bushings so check what you  ordered.

8
You could slide a grade 8 carriage bolt in there with a star washer or tack it in and make it a stud.

9
General Buick Tech / Re: ZDDP in Oil
« on: March 16 2021, 02:25:53 PM »
Extra zinc suppose to be great for hair loss. It hasn't worked for Steve or me.  It also applies for motor oil.

10
Thread starter Tufbuick  Ron Mooney died a few months after this thread

11
General Buick Tech / Re: Turbo clicking when running
« on: March 04 2021, 08:56:28 PM »
Also take off the serpentine drive belt and run engine without it. They are known to make ticking sound when worn, too tight or loose.

12
General Buick Tech / Re: Turbo question
« on: February 13 2021, 03:56:24 PM »
Dont  have to pull the intake. Pull off rocker arm assemblies and and check with a dial indicator. Put a pushrod on the shoulder of the lifter and measure total lift of each int and ext. If any are out of wack with the others that's your problem. It could be a lifter, lobe or valve problem. At that point you would have to pull the intake and inspect.

13
General Buick Tech / Re: Turbo question
« on: February 13 2021, 02:59:04 PM »
Missing 100hp or $100 for makeup for a 60yr old women.  Spending it in the kitchen would get better results...
new springs, converter and chips won't find the missing 100hp if basic issues aren't  found and repaired as Steve mentioned

14
General Buick Tech / Re: Turbo question
« on: February 12 2021, 07:17:58 AM »
A 35yr old stock tired intercooler as Steve mentioned could be half your problem. New one could knock off 4-5 tenths off your et.

15
General Buick Tech / Re: Turbo question
« on: February 11 2021, 09:21:09 AM »
What stall speed is the converter advertised at?  What is you footbrake stall rpm's. But before you blame the converter, the engine has to be running correct.  A weak cylinder won't allow good converter test results.

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