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Messages - deathraider6996
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31
« on: June 08 2016, 02:33:42 PM »
Well, I got tired of dealing with that stupid roll pin and gave in to a rebuild/machining through Steve monroe. Crazy that a 1$ pin costed me 150$ but at least I'll know the seals will be new and it will flow better.
Deciding if I'm going to port match the doghouse. I was too cheap to send it to him to do and I've never ported anything. I know it'll affect the flow but fuck it. I'll do it another time.
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32
« on: June 04 2016, 03:54:08 PM »
Guys I need some guidance, I have tried getting this damn roll pin out of the throttle body that controls the tps and I can't do it. I've tried punches and drilling with no avail. I'm about to just buy a used throttlebody because I'm tired of dealing with this
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33
« on: June 04 2016, 02:14:19 PM »
Looks good! Be sure to use a good break in oil like Joe Gibbs break in oil and not just an additive
Check   Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
34
« on: June 04 2016, 04:04:29 AM »
Long overdue update. Motor is back. Slowly putting stuff back together. 
35
« on: April 29 2016, 10:57:04 PM »
Thanks!
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36
« on: April 29 2016, 07:30:36 PM »
The first one's ok and the second one is the one I've been using Mark. It'll work fine and it will also work on small and big block buicks as well. If I remember right the V6 and V8 all have the same tooth count. 162 if I remember right.
Forgot to add that the first is a PMG starter and the second one is a gear reduction type so it usually spins faster.
Is this the one Charlie? Seems, wrong haha. I used the part number from the first post and it came up with this one. TIA
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37
« on: April 29 2016, 04:35:54 PM »
The first one's ok and the second one is the one I've been using Mark. It'll work fine and it will also work on small and big block buicks as well. If I remember right the V6 and V8 all have the same tooth count. 162 if I remember right.
Forgot to add that the first is a PMG starter and the second one is a gear reduction type so it usually spins faster.
Is this the one Charlie? Seems, wrong haha. I used the part number from the first post and it came up with this one. TIA
38
« on: April 27 2016, 12:19:33 AM »
Should I have brought my heads up to the builder? Don't they have to machine the mating surface to ensure proper seal around the head gaskets?
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39
« on: April 26 2016, 11:32:44 PM »
Some times, I think I have more faith in the original parts than I do in the current production that is supposed to be exactly the same except made overseas ?
Original number was 10456287
I'll do a little research then. I know there was a possibility of the crank sensor being bad. Where can I find a good one of those? Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
40
« on: April 26 2016, 04:56:06 PM »
no....caspers is selling NOS sensors, I think... whereas the current stuff is supposed to be the same as the old...hopefull y it is. Why are you replacing yours?
I don't want to leave a fresh rebuild in the hands of a old knock sensor. Do you happen to have the part number? Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
41
« on: April 26 2016, 01:44:23 AM »
Is there anything special about knock sensors where I should pay 40ish from caspers compared to less than 20 at autozone or even an acdelco unit?
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42
« on: April 26 2016, 01:41:08 AM »
Stumbled upon someone on facebook who is going to try these out. Kind of cool and can't beat the price. Wonder if it would wreak havoc on the knock sensor.  Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
43
« on: April 26 2016, 01:38:15 AM »
It seems we often get sold things that are imaginary when we look. All we can do is remember and not make the same mistake twice I have a few of those t shirts.
Should be really nice when you get thru!
I'm really hoping so Steve. I hope I've made the correct decisions thus far. I'm probably going to take a week off when I get the motor back and dedicate my time to it. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
44
« on: April 26 2016, 01:36:58 AM »
Grinding the crank just means that they need to be cleaned up to get a good surface for the bearings to ride on. You can bet on at least a .010 over sized bearing, possibly a bit bigger depending on how much material has to be removed.
Builder say maybe even. 020. I hope not. I would have to replace it down the road if I were to put some serious power down. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
45
« on: April 24 2016, 02:53:59 PM »
Little update:
Dropped the motor off at Zimmerman racing engines in Phoenix. Says the crank will need to be grinded(?) in three weeks it'll be ready with a 1700 price tag. Forgot my front cover, they will open up the oil passages, blueprint, and rebuild the oil pump. He didn't mention the heads witch I forgot to bring up. Pretty sure I should bring them up and just have him install them.
Just noticed that the heads didn't have arp bolts, let alone studs, which I was told it did from someone. They were the stock tty sps bolts. So either the headgasket had been replaced and the old bolts were reused or they had never been off.
I'm a indecisive fucker. I eventually went with a 212/212 comp flat tappet cam. Lifters, chain, gears, pushrods, valve Springs, valve seals, retainer caps, and retainers.
I need to find a place to buy all the vacuum hoses so I can replace all of them.
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