Author Topic: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build  (Read 7483 times)

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Offline Scoobum

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #15 on: October 22 2014, 05:25:08 PM »
looks like between a 981 and a 941 in comp

6:05 am correction from Joe this morning...lol. 130 lbs at 1.750
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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #16 on: October 22 2014, 05:31:39 PM »
Are you running a stock intercooler as well?  Also, your're using the stock nylon timing gear?

Cam gear is steel...and I honestly can't remember the brand. FMIC Super Extreme from TR Custom. Fit like a glove. I ran a 6.90 last year with a stretched SLIC. Only reason I swapped out to a FMIC is to keep the car more consistent for back to back runs. Keep your eyeballs peeled for a Precision stretched SLIC.
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Offline larrym

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Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #17 on: October 22 2014, 05:35:06 PM »
Or a CAS V4 SLIC
86 white T type with t tops and blackout trim. 60lb injectors Gen 2 with Extender Chip TR6 ignition 212/206 roller cam Turbonetics BB CPT 61 CAS V4 Intercooler Cobbled together Alky Injection 4 inch MAF pipe with integral sensor
2800 stall lots of fun with a little 6 banger!
Best ET 11.36

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #18 on: October 22 2014, 06:46:47 PM »
Dan was using a V4.  I have one too.  But, they flow nothing like the PTE stock location.  It just shows that most people over buy stuff because they think it takes a lot more to run a number than it actually does in many cases
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A lot of broken parts does not make you a racer; it makes you a slow learner.

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #19 on: October 22 2014, 06:59:35 PM »
brad, are you using a stock wastegate?
Steve Wood

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #20 on: October 22 2014, 11:33:35 PM »
brad, are you using a stock wastegate?

RJC 3" internally gated DP...with Jasons biggie puck...with the exhaust housing ported as far as I could take it. If Grumpy could do it with a 67...then I could do it with a 62. :) Exhaust is handled with an original ATR 3" SS dual setup with Pitbulls.
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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #21 on: October 23 2014, 12:04:35 AM »
I tried to pattern the car after Grumpys as much as possible. Russ Merritt is Grumpys son in law...and those are Russ' wires on my car in the pic...availabl e thru RJC. :)
Hard work pays off, dreams come true. Bad times don't last, but BAD GUYS do!

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Offline larrym

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Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #22 on: October 23 2014, 02:31:09 AM »
Ahhhh the Grumpy KISS method
86 white T type with t tops and blackout trim. 60lb injectors Gen 2 with Extender Chip TR6 ignition 212/206 roller cam Turbonetics BB CPT 61 CAS V4 Intercooler Cobbled together Alky Injection 4 inch MAF pipe with integral sensor
2800 stall lots of fun with a little 6 banger!
Best ET 11.36

Offline good2win22

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #23 on: October 23 2014, 11:06:03 AM »
Are you running a stock intercooler as well?  Also, your're using the stock nylon timing gear?

Cam gear is steel...and I honestly can't remember the brand. FMIC Super Extreme from TR Custom. Fit like a glove. I ran a 6.90 last year with a stretched SLIC. Only reason I swapped out to a FMIC is to keep the car more consistent for back to back runs. Keep your eyeballs peeled for a Precision stretched SLIC.
Picked up a PTE SLIC second hand off the TB board about a year ago.  Installed it in the car as soon as I got it.
 
The reason I asked about the cam gear and intercooler is that there is a laundry list of stock items that folks change out.  Has someone made a checklist of all the stock items that should be replaced just for reliability? The spring cleaning thread helped me tremedously in the beginning.   I know it's taken me a few years to get my car where it's at now and that involved quite a bit of time reading and searching threads.  And then there's everyone's differing opinions on what is needed and what you can get by with.  Then you have to make a judgement call on who to believe and who is just full of bull and who is trying to sell you something. 
 
I do believe it's all worth it in the end... Nothing like hammering down the road in a car that you dreamed of owning when your were 16
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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #24 on: October 23 2014, 05:08:00 PM »
The stock pistons will crack across the top following the line of the wrist pin in the low 10's with repeated high boost runs from the pressure. Bison had a pic in his avatar a while back of one that was cracked...with "wink" written below it. :) He also ran that 9 with the 6265 a couple weeks back...with a stock bottom end. The stock engines are durable...with no KR.
« Last Edit: October 23 2014, 10:12:27 PM by Scoobum »
Hard work pays off, dreams come true. Bad times don't last, but BAD GUYS do!

RIP Scott Hall AKA Razor Ramon

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #25 on: October 23 2014, 10:52:06 PM »
Jason...nothin g is indestructible . I recall Grumpy saying he broke a crank driving to the corner store...and I cracked two cylinders with moderate boost. You also have to take into consideration the parts we're using have been around since 1987...from God knows how may owners...and have likely had the living shit kicked out of them. I have everything magnufluxed... but I also know the parts are on borrowed time.

Oh, I also cracked a rocker...score d up a cylinder from a piston pin coming loose...and I also set off a sonic boom that broke windows in a 10 mile radius when I severely overboosted an engine. :)
« Last Edit: October 23 2014, 11:04:55 PM by Scoobum »
Hard work pays off, dreams come true. Bad times don't last, but BAD GUYS do!

RIP Scott Hall AKA Razor Ramon

Offline TexasT

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #26 on: October 24 2014, 11:12:07 AM »
If you are that worried about breaking parts, drag racing is not for you.
Rich

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #27 on: October 24 2014, 11:45:39 AM »
No one wants to break parts.  My idea is to put together a mid to high 10 second streetable engine that can handle the abuse of daily driving and trips to the track.  I've had my TR for a little over 2 years now.  It's a higher mileage engine that I've put almost 14K miles and around 30 passes at the track.  This is how I would be using the vehicle but I don't have that 1o second time slip yet
Jason

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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Cheapass Mid 10 Engine Build
« Reply #28 on: October 24 2014, 12:14:08 PM »
I would say real street cars ( 8 to 10,000 miles a year) that run 10's are rare. Just my opinion :cheers:
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

 

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