IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: phil_long on December 21 2017, 08:56:25 AM
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So i think I mentioned that I got the turbo and converter installed in another thread on here. I had some time to finally drive the car again and I noticed that the boost would go to 11 lbs, which is cool because I had it set super low. So, I get on the highway and notice the slow spool and the struggle to maintain any boost. Fast forward three days later(last night), I had some time to check some shit out. I looked at the WG rod and it was adjusted too far. No biggie, I'll shorten it. First test pull, boost shoots up fast as shit, I let up(on it's way passed 20). I re-adjust the wg rod again, lengthening it almost back to where it was, but not too far to where it wont build boost, and I think the lowest it was spiking to was 18-19 lbs in first gear. Needless to say, I conclude that the turbo needs to be ported (THANKS SCOOBUM) seeing that I have a low boost actuator and my rjc boost controller backed all the way out. This turbo and converter pairing is incredible!! Spools just as fast if not faster than the stock setup for sure.
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Sorry, the reason I conclude that it needs to be ported is because the boost settles back down to around 13 lbs or so after the initial hit. Car pulls insane for sure though.
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Sounds like it to me. But before you start that process, why don't you just disconnect everything from the turbo and simply run a hose straight from the port on the turbo compressor housing to the port on the actuator. That way, the only adjustment you will have is the wastegate rod length. Start with about an 1/8" pull on the rod to connect it to the wastegate arm.
See what happens
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Phil...porting isn't an exact science. Take a little at a time...and go out and try it. I know it's time consuming...bu t be patient. Take too much...and it won't boost. Steves referring to tuner style for the vacuum hose setup. Now...read carefully. Buy REINFORCED vacuum line...and zip tie the hell out of it. I got stupid years ago...and used regular vacuum hose. The shit collapsed...ov erboosted it...and I sent a pair of headgaskets into orbit around the space station. I overboosted it so horribly...tha t it twisted the drivers side head.
Quick vid on setting the actuator rod...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTxI66ha3z0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTxI66ha3z0)
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Damn scoobum!!! That's wild as hell man! I think I will adjust the WG arm one more time. I have the rjc backed all the way out at this point so it's def at it's minimal setting. Keep you posted
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I also plan to install this alky kit I have laying around. It's non progressive but it's safer and better than just pure 93. I can't afford the progressive kit at the moment after the purchase of this turbo and converter. :hmm
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I also plan to install this alky kit I have laying around. It's non progressive but it's safer and better than just pure 93. I can't afford the progressive kit at the moment after the purchase of this turbo and converter. :hmm
Sitting around. I'd be worried the pump might be weak. I'm sure Steve will read this. He should have a link for a new pump...they're inexpensive... compared to head gaskets. Is the pump internal or external? Is the pump in the alky tank...or outside of it?
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I know my roll but imho get the cah right before you go adding anything. And if I'm not mistaken there's a pretty good thread around here about porting.
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I have a low boost actuator and my rjc boost controller backed all the way out. This turbo and converter pairing is incredible!! Spools just as fast if not faster than the stock setup for sure.
Backing out lowers boost level. Tightening down on the spring raises the cracking point of the MBC so boost goes up.
You never want to have the wastegate arm pulled banjo tight, that will limit the amount the puck can open before your run out of throw.
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I think I would leave the alky off and run it at 17 psi with a turbotweak chip until you can afford the current alky systems
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it's only for safety. I dont plan to turn boost up(unless it allows for it), but buying a pump is cheaper than these test runs risking something else. I got a link to a replacement pump and plan to do the swap soon. I'm not as anal about my car as some are, as I'll take what i can get. The kit is a dual nozzle with the internal pump. I was never able to achieve any success running WOT at any boost level in third gear and the O2's reflect what they should. FP was always good, raising 1 to 1 as it should, but the O2's never went up. That's for another thread though, in the meantime, I'm dealing with setting the WG rod again and replacing this pump.
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I'll keep you guys posted on my success. I doubt I purchase a "modern" day kit any time soon, if ever. I hate hearing the threats of people motors blowing up if they don't get blah blah blah. The shit in the past worked just as well(in it's hay day) as this new stuff. The only issues I could find with the older non progressive shit is the difficulty of tuning (spray too early the bogging happens, spray too late you're screwed lol) and the strength of the pump. I don't plan on running anything crazy like most, as I want a fix for potential shitty gas that I might be getting here in STL. I'll take whatever risks come with it, which I really don't see any. I see more of a risk trying to tune on 93 alone. That's just my opinion though. I always value you guys' opinion, as you've taught me everything I know. I'll be in touch! :cheers:
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Phil, I didn't realize you were in STL. I'm there at least once a year in July/August.
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Yes sir, this is where I am! Do you travel here for work?
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Yes sir, this is where I am! Do you travel here for work?
Yes sir. Once a year it's back to O'Fallon for recurrent training. We fly out of Spirit
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Wasn't there a problem with dual nozzles "ponding"?
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I ran the single nozzle SMC into the low 11's. Norbs dyno'd a single nozzle SMC and said it ran into KR at the 500 HP mark...which would point to a dual being overkill at anything below that. Dan and I would see guys bring cars at the shop with dual setups. None of them raced their cars...but they could tell all their friends at Timmies they needed it.
One of the locals called me about a year ago boasting his car dyno'd 460ish HP and then proceeded to tell me it would run X for an ET. I told him without hitting the track and producing a time slip then it retains Timmies turd status shoulda woulda coulda car. Hasn't called me since.
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racing dynos, hahaha now that is cool. I know i've taken money from guys who thought their car would run after it was on a dyno. Like shooting fish in a barrel, "oh, since yours car makes such pah, I'll need a length or two."
The good old days.
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Spirit is a cool place. I like it out there in that area a lot.
I bought a known good working kit years ago and it happened to be dual. I can't imagine this kit being overkill seeing as the single nozzle now a days are spraying more. I doubt it's overkill...
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And by known good working kit, I'm referring to it as used. It popped up in the for sale section and I bought it. This was of course back before I started reading and learning about these cars.
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Phil if you have the round bottle SMC kit the gent on reply 5 has the part number. Slide down to reply 8 and Paul (PACECARTA) has the writeup on how to replace it.
https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/need-a-part-for-smc-old-style-in-bottle-pump.260325/#post-3792761 (https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/need-a-part-for-smc-old-style-in-bottle-pump.260325/#post-3792761)
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Thanks Scoobum. I came across this during my research! I'm excited