IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Scoobum on November 22 2015, 03:22:20 PM
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Hang on...gotta compose myself for a second. Okay, I'm ready. How long do a set of head gaskets last on a stock 109 with 100,000 miles on it driven and raced at WOT in the 1/4 with a water temperature of 240 degrees...
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I'll bite... Till they pop?
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3/16 of a mile
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He said the engine smells hot...
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That's not right... It's gotta get to at least 245-250 before it should smell hot
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The original gaskets or replacements?
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Several things can make it smell hot at lower temperatures than that :)
Check the coolant for exhaust gas contamination.
Why is it getting hot? Does it only do it under boost or is his radiator clogged or thermostat not opening properly?
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Rad was original and was clogged silly. It was replaced...alo ng with a new water pump. The vacuum lines are a mess...and it has an obvious exhaust leak. Compression numbers vary from 130-150. Engine is out. The plan is to put a pair of freshened stock heads I have from Joe...with new 981's on it...along with a new timing chain and gears. I'm gonna check the lifters on it tomorrow...and then go from there...and get back to you guys with an update.
It has a new fuel pump and hotwire kit...new injectors and chip from Eric...AFPR... RJC downpipe...SM.
Engine is original.
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If you need some stock parts, gimme a shout. I'm dumping the internals on the barn motor and going forged. I shave some stock heads as well as a stock cam. I thought this was a joke thread... My bad
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Thanks Jason. For peace of mind I'd go with forged pistons...at the very least. Make sure you have everything magnufluxed. If you see so much as a heat crack...toss the part and grab another. When I hand Joe an engine I give him several extra rods and an extra crank.
Magnufluxing is cheap. When I was apprenticing I could check a crank and a set of rods in about 10 minutes. It's done with black light...and a mixture of Varsol and metal shavings. When the part is magnetized the cracks show up as yellow lines under black light.
Blocks would be checked with a large hand held electro-magnet. I'd sprinkle metal shavings between the magnets...and if there was a crack the shavings would be drawn into it. Magnafluxing is cheap insurance...an d is likely the reason I haven't broken any internals to date.
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Also have the balanced/polished stock rods, trw forged Pistons .030 over, stock crank. Bunch of stuff. Really I should make a list but that would take me away from other projects.
I've done some NDI before. I use the developer from a dye penetrant kit to find leaks. Works great. We do a lot of eddy current looking for cracks on aircraft.
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I'm reusing the TRW .030 overs and the balanced rotating assembly from the block I cracked a year and a half ago. One piston was damaged...so I grabbed a new one. I found a std bore block from a local...and Joe is gonna bore/hone it to fit the balanced rotating assembly. Gonna keep it as a spare engine.
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Update. Cylinder walls have zero taper. One lifter is 'hollowed' out on the foot...so the cam is gone. Some metal grit on the pickup screen and in the pan...but no gray bearing material or copper. Timing chain has a fair amount of slack in it. Gonna check the bearings on it tomorrow and the end play. Customer says he plans on keeping the car for life. Gonna speak to Joe tonite about freshening up the short block and doing the timing cover mods.
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sounds like a good candidate for freshening up!
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sounds like a good candidate for freshening up!
Rings and bearings and back into service. Steve...sugges tion for a cam? Stock heads, turbo, convertor and actuator.
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if this is going to be basically stock, I would probably go with something like a 208/208 using the Johnson lifters from TA or another source. TA probably has a set of cam and lifters in a package...depe nds on what you can get reasonably priced into Canada.
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Steve...this is the engine that was cutting out under load. You thot it mite be the positive battery cable hitting the new DP...but it was clear of the DP. He said the SES lite would come on...but didn't know the SM would show the code. Also said occasional backfiring under load. The EGR was removed...and it had a fancy cover over it...but with no gasket...and it's leaking air there horribly. Also has an abundance of other small vacuum leaks and noticeable exhaust leak. I have several extra stock MAFS...coil packs and ignition modules and cam sensors. He also said the engine would bog down...but then pick up again. Open to suggestions.
Several of the injector O-rings had cracks in them.
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who knows..too many things wrong..they will barely run at times with an egr leak...and they go very lean under throttle with such leaks.
If the lite came on, that has to be something electrical. will not be the module or coil, tho. Has to be something either throwing a code or screwing up the feed to the ecm...or on the ground side of the equation. mAF could do it...but I kinda doubt it being erratic.
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The bearings are in decent shape...but I'm recommending Joe freshens the shortblock up.
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I think that would be the wise thing to do...:)
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I think that would be the wise thing to do...:)
This is why I quit working on these cars. When I talked to the owner today...he was hinting on just the cam and heads. I gave him Joes number...and I'm taking my leave of this one.
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Man for the cost and time seeing as how it's already out.....
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Some just don't understand. They look at numbers and choose the smallest one. I think of it as the "WalMart" mentality. It is all about the lowest price no matter the quality or quantity. Sadest part is even if they didn't want the lowest price they don't have the knowledge to make an educated decision anyway.
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These heads I have are from my own car...and only had 30,000 miles on them when pulled. I had Joe freshen them up and install new valve springs. I'm giving him the heads for 200 bucks. The springs alone are 100 bucks...and Joe is willing to build the short block for peanuts. I'm not wasting anymore of my time on this one.
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sounds like a good idea to me!