IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => A/C, Heating and Cooling => Topic started by: gordyzx9r on October 29 2014, 06:16:57 PM
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So:
The AC & Heater system.
I haven't used the AC in years. It was converted to 134 awhile ago.
I charged the system.
When I turn the AC on maximum, I hear a click sound, the RPMs alter slightly, and air blows through the vents...but it doesn't get cold.
When I set the controls to heat, heat blows out through the floor vents only, it doesn't come out the console vents. If I set it to vent and set it to hot, I get hot air. When I set it to defrost, it seems to be working correctly.
When you set it to heat, should it blow air out the console vents, or just the floor vents?
Where do I start?
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first check the end of this cable behind the glove box http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/heater_cable.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/heater_cable.htm)
and if that is actuating the door properly, check this http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/acvacuumswitch.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/acvacuumswitch.htm)
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Believe Kirban has now cloned the discontinued lever.
otherwise my hack?:
http://dtekk.com/automotive/heater/heater.html (http://dtekk.com/automotive/heater/heater.html)
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first check the end of this cable behind the glove box http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/heater_cable.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/heater_cable.htm)
and if that is actuating the door properly, check this http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/acvacuumswitch.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/acvacuumswitch.htm)
Thanks, I'll check those out.
FYI...on http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/acvacuumswitch.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/acvacuumswitch.htm) the instructions/text between pics doesn't show up unless you highlight it. I checked in FF and IE.
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Thanks.... I will fix it
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that should do it
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I'll look at it once I get off work today.
So, I take it that when I set the control to "heat" I should have something coming out of the dash vents and not just the floor vents?
What about the AC not blowing cold air?
Gordy
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cold air is stuck if that lever can't move the door, so start there
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You said you heard the compressor click...look at the front of the compressor to see if the entire pulley and not just the outer clutch part is turning.
If it is, put your hand on top of the "can" and see if it is cold.
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You said you heard the compressor click...look at the front of the compressor to see if the entire pulley and not just the outer clutch part is turning.
If it is, put your hand on top of the "can" and see if it is cold.
The pulley turns, but I don't see anything else turning. I took a video and posted it on my FB just in case so we can be sure we're talking about the same thing.
Everything behind the control head looked fine as well as behind the glove coompartment.
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if the pulley is rotating but the center hub is not, then the compressor shaft is not turning and you will have no cooling.
Pull the connector off the can and jump the two terminals in the connector together with a piece of wire..you should hear a click and the hear/feel the engine load down a bit. Then, looking at the front of the clutch should show it turning as an unit and not just the outer pulley
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if the pulley is rotating but the center hub is not, then the compressor shaft is not turning and you will have no cooling.
Pull the connector off the can and jump the two terminals in the connector together with a piece of wire..you should hear a click and the hear/feel the engine load down a bit. Then, looking at the front of the clutch should show it turning as an unit and not just the outer pulley
I know I'm slow...
Okay, so when I jumped the terminals in the connector the clutch started turning and there was a load on the engine.
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So, low on Freon or the low pressure switch is bad?
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that would be a good starting place....need to put a gauge on the low pressure side and see what it reads...You can use one of those cheap gauges they sell with the 12 oz cans of freon if you like...connect it to the low pressure fitting on the system, jump the switch and see if the pressure is in the green on gauge..or above say 25 psi if it is not marked...if it is not, then it would appear to be low...
If the car started to cool (put your hand on the line going into the evaporator) when you jumped the switch...then you know the switch was bad.
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that would be a good starting place....need to put a gauge on the low pressure side and see what it reads...You can use one of those cheap gauges they sell with the 12 oz cans of freon if you like...connect it to the low pressure fitting on the system, jump the switch and see if the pressure is in the green on gauge..or above say 25 psi if it is not marked...if it is not, then it would appear to be low...
If the car started to cool (put your hand on the line going into the evaporator) when you jumped the switch...then you know the switch was bad.
No, it did not cool. I'll get the pressure level checked.
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Well, it was just about empty apparently.
Had it recharged and everything works again and blows cold. I guess almost 2-3 years of having the motor ripped out multiple times it lost it's charge somehow? Hopefully it's not leaking.
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the clutch seals will usually leak after sitting for awhile. Many will turn the ac on once a month during the winter for a few minutes to try to avoid this. I would have it checked for leaks altho they should have pulled a vacuum on the system before charging it and let it sit to see if it held it. They may have just put freon in it, tho. If it is leaking slowly, it may be cheaper to put one or two cans in it every year than pay a fortune to have it fixed....:D
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I have a good used AC compressor out of a 87 GN if you need one.
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They may have just put freon in it, tho. If it is leaking slowly, it may be cheaper to put one or two cans in it every year than pay a fortune to have it fixed....:D
I agree with Steve. When I got my 04 Denali the air wasn't that cold. Freon was down but they couldn't find the leak?
So I topped it up & all was fine until a year later & it wasn't cold enuf again. Added a can of the Leak Sealer with a can of Freon & it's been good for 5 years now. I figure the leak was somewhere in the roof since the 2nd lines go to all the back seat vents & that would have been a major PITA or lot's of $$ to pay a shop!
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the clutch seals will usually leak after sitting for awhile. Many will turn the ac on once a month during the winter for a few minutes to try to avoid this. I would have it checked for leaks altho they should have pulled a vacuum on the system before charging it and let it sit to see if it held it. They may have just put freon in it, tho. If it is leaking slowly, it may be cheaper to put one or two cans in it every year than pay a fortune to have it fixed.... :D
Yeah, they leaked checked it. I watched them do it and they talked me through what they were doing. I primarily did that just because as soon as the shop foreman pulled the car into the bay all 10 of their techs came running over, whipped out their cameras and started taking pics. I kinda felt bad for their other customers because the mechanics stopped working on the other cars and just kept drooling over the GN the entire time it was there.
And I got some of the usual TR cliches like "my brother had one, but put in a 400 to make it fast", "why don't you take out that six and put a 400 in it...". I was kinda surprised they said 400...and not 350.