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Messages - gnonyx
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61
« on: November 09 2021, 05:48:58 PM »
Here are the factory valve spring pressures. 1.727" is the normal installed height with the valve closed. If you reduce that height there will be more tension on the spring and the pressure would be slightly greater depending upon how much shorter the installed height becomes. If a spring spec shows 1.700 as the installed height, and you install it at 1.727", then it will have a bit less tension installed than that shown in the specs for that particular spring.
Steve, I have been reading and doing a lot of research, as this is a learning experience for me. I have been doing my own mechanical work on my GN since day one and that is going on 33 years of owning it. I learned a lot from my father at younger age, but some learning do slip away like trying to learn how to rebuilt a older caddy tranny in the winter on the driveway, and no it was fun trying to learn that. The photo shown; will this comp cam 981-16 spec is okay use? Thanks, Julio
62
« on: November 09 2021, 05:34:43 PM »
Don't believe I said that at all 
Hi Steve, Please understand my last thread was not about you, and trust me I have a great deal of respect to you. 
63
« on: November 09 2021, 01:27:16 PM »
Okay , I'm here to start an war or argument, but need some education on how to install valve springs from start to finish.
Yes, I know Steve you claimed just get the comp cam 981's and install them since I'm not going to 5,000 rpm.
I forgot what were the factory's spec. of the highest rpm?
Someone did mention that #3 exhaust spring has less tension than the others due to the slight misalignment issue between lifter & lobe that is present, because it spins slower because of an engineering flaw in the bore placement and is much more prone to failure. With this one will need to replace the #3 exhaust with a weaker valve spring.
Again This info is new to me as installing valve springs is new to me, but I enjoy learning and listen to others expertise on how to do this type of replacement.
64
« on: November 07 2021, 10:42:54 PM »
Kirban springs have nothing to do with this as you have comp springs.
Hi Steve,
I was reading over the threads again and I was asking about Kirban since I don't have comp as the only two I was thinking of was comp or Kirban.
65
« on: November 07 2021, 02:42:11 PM »
Just stick them in like a million before you. Don't worry about the shims. All the shims will do is make them a bit stiffer but they are already stiffer than factory so there is no need to add shims and add more tension. If you were running 25 lbs of boost and 5800 rpm, I would add the shims or use a different spring but you are not, to my knowledge. Kirban springs have nothing to do with this as you have comp springs.
The engine swap is in the middle of a snag. I think the new torque converter is a bit off spec and appears to not want to go far enuf into the transmission. Needs to go another 1/8" to give me the properly flex plate clearance so it won't take out the pump or thrust bearing. Also the transmission we used does not have a mounting boss to hook the column shifter to. I made a bracket but that was in the way of the cooler lines and the throttle valve cable. then I noticed a cracked tail housing transmission mounting point.
We called time out, got a new transmission and Dusty is putting us in line for another converter in case I am right. If my son ends up making it up for Thanksgiving, we will try to drop the transmission and see if I right in my thought that the converter was mis-welded or not. In other words this friggin' car should have been finished a year ago but life interferes when my son lives 300 miles away and covid has interfered with him getting up since the 4th of July.
It's too bad my wife and I don't live near you, as I would definingly help you out, but not the early in the morning stuff; that's too early for me.  My wife like Texas and was in San Antonio for a while, but she claimed the lightning are just close to the ground, and now we're in South Carolina, previous born and raise in New York.
66
« on: November 07 2021, 01:42:46 PM »
Quote from: Steve Wood on November 06 2021, 08:54:23 PMDid you notice that I said you don't need as much because you are not running high boost, or high rpm?
I would just stick the 981's in without any measuring or shimming and be done with it.
What about the valve springs of dealing with shims , and height measurement.
Okay, the 981 height is 1700, and yet Kirban sells that are rated at 100 psi at 1.727
Don't I need to add some shims to make the differences of height if I use the 981?
By the way, did you finally put the big block engine on your other car? Reply 3, 2nd sentence. I'm gonna go have a beer and calm down.
Hi Scoobum, I thank GOD that Steve has patience's for people like me who asks questions of the unknown to many would thing its minor. When it comes to valve springs, there are many version of installing valve springs, as to using with shims or not, and the type of springs that needs to be shim or not. these questions and many more are things that helps me and others to understand about the valve springs. Especially like myself I like to installed them once and not need to remove the valve cover to add shims after break in or valves springs making loud tapping noise. Again, this may sounds stupid, but like I always say, a stupid question is one not being ask.
67
« on: November 06 2021, 11:09:30 PM »
Did you notice that I said you don't need as much because you are not running high boost, or high rpm?
I would just stick the 981's in without any measuring or shimming and be done with it.
What about the valve springs of dealing with shims , and height measurement. Okay, the 981 height is 1700, and yet Kirban sells that are rated at 100 psi at 1.727 Don't I need to add some shims to make the differences of height if I use the 981? By the way, did you finally put the big block engine on your other car?
68
« on: November 06 2021, 09:47:28 PM »
Go back and read all the valve spring stuff that was in XracerX13's thread. As you are not running high boost, your situation should not be particularly crucial....and you are not running higher than normal rpm's either. I forget what Joe ended up about shimming but he covered everything as I recall.
I read XracerX13's threads, and he wanted to stay under 90# stock pressure, but a lot of TR user claimed the 980's are too soft even for stock cam, and once the break it period, and driving the 980's might even drop 10#'s. Many with stock cam replaced with the 981's, but you have to measure and shims, and that is something I don't have the tools. There are many options of valve spring replacement for stock cam, but what I'm looking for is someone has the talent and experiences in doing these measurements, with attached shims if needed, so all I have to do is install them. If the best option is to go with 981, NAPA springs, or even Kirban. Steve, You wrote about Kirban valve springs: Kirban sells that are rated at 100 psi and I think that is at 1.727. The spring rate is 430 according to Kirban (NOTE, his site says maximum lift is 430 so I am just guessing that is rate but I don't know) so they would be a bit stiffer than the 981s when on the nose of the lobe. I know I can call Kirban and ask him the same question I'm asking you, do think Kirban valve springs are direct replaceable? Do you know or recommend anyone who can measure attached with correct shims per valve springs?
69
« on: November 06 2021, 01:43:03 PM »
Hi All,
I though I was finally able to put my 87 GN on the road after doing a lot of work for so many months, and the only thing that is in my mind and Steve mention to do is to replace the intake manifold gasket. I already did a smoke test during the time of replacing the Throttle body area gaskets, exhaust area and found no leaks.
I did wanted to clean and relocate the ground wires behind the pass. head, and I tried to remove the ground bolt in many different location, but still no good. So I decided to remove the manifold, and valve spring cover to reach the ground wires for easy access.
While the valve cover is remove I'm also going to replace the valve springs, and now I question is which valve springs.
I was reading on the other forum and one Buick member claimed the following:
The 980 is too soft, too soft even for a stock cam. The 981 will be a big improvement. 86lb@1.75 with a 373Lb rate.
The SpeedWay Z28 spring 180671515 is also a good choice. Just Slightly more than the 981, only 5lbs or so. 91Lb@1.75" with 379lb rate.
I already ordered the following:
Manifold valley pan gasket - FEL-PRO MS96033
Premium Valve Stem Seals - FEL-PRO SS72623
Being this will be my first time doing a valve spring replacement, does any member do this type of work doing pre measured for height and compression?
I have an no smoke unopen engine with 92,000 miles, with the following:
87 GN T-Top, ScanMaster, Racetronix hot-wire kit with fuel pump, Commander chips with 60# injectors, adj. fuel pump, triple pod gauges w/ Auto Meter A/F gauge, oil pressure gauge, vac/boost gauge, Kenne Belle rear seat brace, upgraded transmission w/ Art Carr pan cover, Brute Force Universal Joint, RJC stock plenum plate and 3" GM MAF.
Thanks
70
« on: October 01 2021, 09:54:16 AM »
Thank you gnonyx! Ordered it from Amazon and it should arrive tomorrow.
Was installation straight forward - does cable go from trans outer manual lever to shifter or does the steering column come into play?
I didn't want to remove the whole console, and the shifter handle, so I remove the bolts holding down the console lift it high enough and place about 5-7" empty box on the rear of the console. I was able to lift the front of the console to remove the shifter cable clip, and slide off the cable from the shifter. Go underneath the car and remove the clip from the other end of the shifter cable, and pull cable from underneath car, and reverse procedure of installing new shifter cable. You might need the really work on trying to push the new shifter cable through the floor rubber grommet. Worst scenario, you might need to cut rubber grommet on one side, once cable is inside rubber grommet install the rubber grommet back into position as before; don't leave the grommet out.
71
« on: September 30 2021, 06:45:37 PM »
Well I finally got tired of shifting with the column and took the floor console off to see what's going on. The shifter cable came apart. See pic.
Is there a repair procedure you guys have used? I cut some of the plastic sheathing off and the steel cable sheathing does fits back into the plastic retainer. Was thinking I could clamp the retainer over the cable or run a set-screw in through the retainer to hold the steel sheathing? Or is best bet to find a new cable? Thanks!
I just replaced this cable and it fits great Amazon has them or you can check with EBay for better price, if you can find it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8TB3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
72
« on: September 17 2021, 08:58:48 PM »
Hi Steve, Well I finally installed the cam sensor, and I also replaced the shifter cable since the existing one was about 1/2" too long and that cable came from of the Buick Vendor. The replacement I got from Amazon - ATP Y-651 Transhift Cable and fitted pretty good. MAF translator settings as follow: sw1-on, sw2-on, sw3-on, sw4-off, maf base#3 scanmaster readings: 02-675 AF-05 LB-35 BAT-13.4 INT-124 BL-124 NPH-0 CLT-176 ATS-121 R-725 TPS-.42 IAC-25 CC-140-249 NAL-0 OIL PRES-26 VAC-15.5 A/F-15.1-15.6 I drove it down the block, and it felted really good, but I didn't go WOT. Washed the car and place it inside the garage as it started to rain, and this rain will continue until next week. I will post in a couple of weeks of results I really do appreciated all of your help
73
« on: September 14 2021, 06:43:41 PM »
I will stop by and put a bullet hole in the engine so you can find a leak! Nothing less than that will convince you!
My wife and I was LOL when I read what you wrote. You're welcome anytime, just leave the ammo home We have plenty of beers, and I'll even make you my home town drink called "Long Island Ice Tea"
74
« on: September 14 2021, 04:33:28 PM »
That is the best course of action. One thing at a time...
Yes, one thing at a time, and as you can see in the photo the GN is up in the air again I wanted to make sure when I use the smoke machine, by removing both front tires I can see headers crossover pipes flanges for no leaks. The reason for this I was hearing a small ticking noise and I though possibly an exhaust leaks, the other could be the cam sensor. I did replaced the cam sensor, checked for oil pressure (10#) was good enough to start the engine. Nearly scare shit out of me when the engine started It sound like I had no oil and every bearings was singing I immediate shut down, took a while to compose myself, and only thing I did was replaced the cam sensor. I removed the cam sensor and installed the brand new backup cam sensor. I removed the #1 spark plug and place a wine cork to find TDC, and let me tell you trying to move that little fan is no joke. Finally set the new cam sensor, rechecked the oil pressure again (#12) and the engine started with no problem and no noise. The existing cam sensor that I removed and took apart, what I found the lower brass bearing closes to the worm gear was spinning freely. After this is complete I will check again for vacuum leaks
75
« on: September 14 2021, 11:22:36 AM »
oh, well I will quit telling you how to adjust the chip then LOL
I always tune by how the car runs. After looking at what seems like zillions of run on PowerLogger that people have sent me, I came to the conclusion that if the engine was in good condition, tuning was not critical at all in 11 and 12 second cars with regard to performance. Once in the ballpark, engine tuning was hard to make better by tweaking things. Driving skills and suspension were more important.
I have also learned to put more belief into the factory O2 than widebands in the general sense on cars in the same range. These cheap widebands are often flaky and the calibration is often wrong. Of course in your case, I will never have much faith in yours due to the sensor location LOL
One thing I never, never do is stop accepting advise especially someone as yourself; whether I know it or not. Trust me I do understand about your judgement of the wideband location, but I'm only going what the manual claimed for the type of wideband I have. Before I started to do the repair to the headers, and vacuum leaks, I always got the wideband to read 14.7 with the original MAF. I the got a Delphi AF10056 - 3.5" MAF to which I think might been out of calibration; spec. numbers all over the place. Once I finished tuning with the GM 3"MAF, I will write down the spec. configuration numbers, I will reinstall the Delphi AF10056 and go from there for tuning; as I'm doing this for spare MAF. Yes I also do understand wideband is not the main coarse, but listening from you and Jeremy advises has given me the positive flow of tuning, and preventing from me doing head gasket. I have WOT but yet to see if I need to do valve spring replacement; one thing at a time.
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