Author Topic: Turbo question  (Read 10570 times)

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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #45 on: February 14 2021, 09:41:04 AM »
I didnt change anything with tranny
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #46 on: February 14 2021, 09:58:52 AM »
so that is about 105 mph at a lower rpm than we saw on the track runs....
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #47 on: February 14 2021, 10:53:38 AM »
would that be because I cant leave as hard on the street as at the track?

Is it giving us any info about converter? at least how its performing at the shifts?
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #48 on: February 14 2021, 11:39:51 AM »
It looked okay on the shifts to me....  it only gains about 400 or so rpm after each shift and looks somewhat flat on the rpm curve as a result.

Not enuf information or data to really make a call in my opinion.

Did you buy this converter from ck or did you buy it used?
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #49 on: February 14 2021, 11:43:54 AM »
from CK
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #50 on: February 14 2021, 11:46:09 AM »
This looks more normal to me.  I think it is one of Tim's from the name of the file.
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #51 on: February 14 2021, 12:20:03 PM »
Trying to learn how to read these, looks like he puts it to the floor, when it hits 3000 rpm he let's it go, spins a bit then hooks and pulls down rpm a bit. Looks like it drops 1400 rpm on first shift that over reved to 6000 and 1000 on second shift.

Was this a trans break car?
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #52 on: February 14 2021, 12:29:28 PM »
He is picking up rpm after each shift rather than being as flat as your curve is

I think he has a bigger cam capable of more rpm and that is just where it shifted out of first normally.
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #53 on: February 14 2021, 12:36:10 PM »
So potentially that's caused by a compression issue with mine? So that's why I need the leakdown test and valve train check to find or eliminate that variable?
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #54 on: February 14 2021, 12:53:37 PM »
At this point, I have no idea.  A weak cylinder could cause it or it may be a bad converter, a mismatched converter, or a combination of all of the above.  I assume the transmission fluid does not smell burned which would indicate a bad transmission.. .

With a small diameter lock up converter, you need to lock it to get it to be more efficient and that might have increased it quite a bit.  There are plenty of variables and you have to narrow it down.  It is not easy to go fast but having a grip on the data and interpreting it correctly helps.
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #55 on: February 14 2021, 01:12:27 PM »
Thanks Steve,  I will check all that stuff next week and let you know what I find.

Hope your water hasn't given you any troubles!!
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Steve Wood

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #56 on: February 14 2021, 01:21:40 PM »
The problem with most cars I have come across lies within owners who bought parts to make them go faster without being sure there were no inherent problems in the drive train to begin with.

I know of at least three cars that ran 10.4 on a factory stock original cam. Most have no trouble running low 11's on a stock cam if it is in good condition with good valve springs and lifters.  Yet, the number one engine mod most guys want to make is a bigger cam because they are used to non boosted engines and think a cam will make more power on a turbo car.

Others buy a big azz turbo and stick it on a engine with factory, unported heads and wonder why they did not double their power.

Then they put a loose converter on it trying to make it spool faster and the car does not get faster, it gets more unstreetable and they have a hard time getting away from a light without suddenly nailing the car in front of them.

Quoting Lawrence Conley again.  There are no magic parts.  The faster you want to go, the more it costs and the faster you go, the more you will have to work on it.  It's all about combination no matter how much money you want to spend.

A solid foundation is what it is all about.  Then well matched parts will work optimally. 
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Offline Tim Hensley

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #57 on: February 14 2021, 02:33:13 PM »
Steve posted a log from my car, that’s running 28 in tires. It’s a solid 11.5 car. And very street able.
I can understand your frustration, but remember it’s a 3.8 liter not 6 liter V8 and a little bit of discrepancy is big. 25 lb boost is up there on a 100 lb spring. I have not done the math but on 1.7 valve it is trying to push through. I have not crunched your the numbers on the Wallace calculator, it a good tool. I like the one that breaks the entire 1/4 down to speed and time. It has taken me 10 years and around a 100 passes to get to 11.5 you can’t hit it hard this year skip a few and expect to start off where you left off. Scooby was at It every weekend for several years to get his car to ET and be on the number every time. I’m convinced these cars need total dedication and attention to detail. I’m up to it because I truly like this car. This is just a pep talk you can do it.
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Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #58 on: February 14 2021, 02:59:49 PM »
Thanks Tim, ya I love these cars and I love to tinker so that's a good thing. I will get it one way or another :)
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

Offline Shimy87

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Re: Turbo question
« Reply #59 on: March 13 2021, 03:25:41 PM »
Snow melted so I can't snowmobile anymore so I got the buick out. Need to do the leakdown test and check cams health. I did do the test for rpm when boost starts.....nee dle just starts to show boost at 3100. This was with car up to temp but no heat in tranny if that matters.
87 GN, K&N cold air, gutted cat, TT 5.7 chip, AFPR, 340 Walbro w/ hotwire, 60 LBS injectors, 981 valve springs, 206/206 Cam, RJC Powerplate, LS1 MAF & translator, Vacuum brakes, Hellwig rear sway bar, Energy suspension poly bushings, Razors Alky, Pypes exhaust, 5931 turbo, CK9.5 converter

 

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