Whats your rear susp/ tire setup for track?

[Steve Wood]

I believe the ATR bar that we used so many years as the "trick" bar for drag racing was/is actually 1 3/8" rather than 1 1/8" as I said earlier

[Steve Wood]

So is their a big difference in all the available aftermarket rear sway bars? I see a wide range of pricing. Is a 1" rear bar good or should it be larger? Saw a Spohn 1" bar for $174. Hellwig bar around $200ish.  Sounds like this would be a good investment since my car has stock rear bar on it.

I think the Hellwig is the best of the lot.  Look around for a good price because it is often one of the cheaper ones

$201 on amazon with free two day shipping if you have a Prime account.  It's adjustable so you can use the shortest arm location for the stiffest affect.  It's a lot lighter which is worth something as well.  I think one of the old ATR bars would trap me if I got caught under it these days

[motorhead]

I love my Hellwig Pro-Touring bar.

[Tim Hensley]

I have 5857 and run 11.9 with 1.7 60 using 9X28 slick I change at the track
I loved my MT but our track prep is so bad  the 1/2 up shift I was out of the DHT and all over the track.
The slicks fix that but I dont like the !00mph wobble ,It manageable
I run the Hellwig made my 60 ft consistent.I run it in the middle hole

[trashmechlv]

315/35R17 Nitto NT05R Drag Radials
Auto-X/Road race type suspension
1.7 60'
11.9 @ 112mph
Timeslip is at the end of the video:

1191at112mph

What pressure do you run your Nittos at the track? I have the Nitto NT555R drag radials so not sure the difference between the two. I believe I will be getting the Hellwig Bar for the rear soon. I would like to get my tires to hook since I just bought them and don't want to shell out more $$$$$ for some M/T drag radials or slicks with extra rims. Nice pass in your video!

[Steve Wood]

I used to run around 18 but pressure depends on the track and ambient conditions.  I told you above how to look at the tire patch and adjust the pressure

[motorhead]

Same here... but it took some testing.  Follow the procedure Steve gave you and you'll be in the ballpark; season to taste.

[trashmechlv]

ordered the Hellwig bar from Amazon for $201 shipped. Best price I could find online. Will check my bushings and probably box my lower control arms. After that I will figure out my tire psi and hopefully hook up in the fall when the heat breaks. Going to try to stick with the Nittos (pun intended). Thanks for everyones input. This site is a lot of help.

[Steve Wood]

If you learn to drive it, you should be within about 3 tenths of the better tires on the top end.

the sway bar should help a lot

You need to look at your scan tool data and see why you only turned 101 mp.  It should be closer to 115.  Perhaps the heat killed the air and it was running really rich, or you lifted way earlier.  Hard to say without some data

[Charlief1]

If the track was that hot he may have been loosing mph due to traction Steve. Seen that before here.

[Scoobum]

I'll take a shot at valve springs have gone south.

[Steve Wood]

You need to look at your scan tool data and see why you only turned 101 mp.  It should be closer to 115.  Perhaps the heat killed the air and it was running really rich, or you lifted way earlier.  Hard to say without some data

Like I said 

[trashmechlv]

I did go at it wrong when I went to track. I was rushing to get out there since it was last TnT until end of August. It was WAY to hot that night (well over 100 at 9pm). I slapped my new PTC converter in car Thursday and straight to track Friday night with no drive time. Actually only put a few miles on car since I got it in April since Ive been doing work to it. When I made passes I should have made notes of my Scanmaster data after each pass, but only checked for knock after each pass. Im guessing engine has the original valve springs. My tire spin was bad through first and started up again in second gear. I actually had to pedal car through 60ft. So I believe its a combo of the heat, tire spin and my tune. Im still learning the ropes of tuning this car. Thanks for the support from you guys and next trip to the track in the fall will be better all the way around!

[Steve Wood]

Valve springs were usually worn out by the time the car hit 50k miles and time also plays a major factor.  You can usually tell because the car does not want to accelerate past 4000 rpm or so...not quickly at all. 

It takes time to sort them out and to understand how all the pieces of the puzzle go together.  Save some money for Power Logger because it is invaluable in sorting out a car in just a few passes and makes it easier for others to look at your data and help you.  :}

[Shimy87]

Was trying the burnout test for even strips. They are even in legnth and darkness across but.....it looks like I get alot of wheel hop?  I have the hellwig bar, boxed lower arms and poly bushings. What can I do to stop the hop?