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Messages - wmsonta
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31
« on: November 14 2021, 12:02:46 PM »
back to back 130 MPH passes
I did that with my Vmax in 1990. 10.96 best of 3 tries. Gleason ran 10.2 @131 in 1985.
Obvious conclusion-he and I share no DNA.
32
« on: January 15 2021, 12:07:13 PM »
What does 100% apple juice, Coca-Cola, the fleshy part of some fruits, paw paws, have in common? Answer-they will all test positive for covid using a PCR or RT-PCR test. https://twitter.com/SebRoss4/status/1323986287607631872A rather long video, but it has an interview with the now deceased inventor of PCR tests. PCR tests were designed to find people who would then be blood tested for HIV. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ny9nNFHQsY&feature=youtu.beWithout PCR testing, they could not have sold this 'pandemic' to anyone. At 45 cycles, there 97+% false positives. At 30 cycles, there is 50+% false positives. The last study (about 2wks ago), a well know eastern US college got 300 students that were asymptomatic, PCR positive for covid. They were retested using the other 2 types of tests. The PCR tests were found to be 100% false positive. I can furnish links to probably a dozen such studies over the last 8 mos. Identical results.
33
« on: January 15 2021, 11:41:43 AM »
Another thought, to my knowledge the 2020 census has not been released officially. But, ignoring that, I don't know what it really has to do with Covid per se. Death certificates to death certificates are what my numbers from the CDC refer to and it will be a few more weeks before that becomes a bit more definitive due to the usual civil servant messing around that always drags things out.
The census became available to all 12/31/2020. The census death and birth numbers, by federal law, are the most accurate numbers.
34
« on: January 15 2021, 11:37:01 AM »
12% is the increase of deaths over the prior year...include s all forms of death. Nowhere did it claim covid was killing 12% of the population. Covid kills all year long and not mainly in the "flu season" hence the death rate in general has gone up 12% in comparison to prior years.
Uh-huh, you are now caught where I was. There is no increase in deaths from all causes. There is no statistical difference up or down, in the last decade. None. To make it worse, starting in April 2020, I checked total deaths per month until November in comparison to the same month in the previous 5 yrs. No statistical difference. There was no pandemic except in the apparently bogus covid numbers. Probably, the reason for HR 6435. https://www.congress.gov/bill/116th-congress/house-bill/6435There is an incredible media blackout, but I will eventually find the text. As a guess, it will probably limit liability for politicians, state and local governments. Dunno.
35
« on: January 14 2021, 09:00:04 AM »
Steve, the reason I quoted you to begin, I realized you had run the numbers. As have I. A number of things about the census are certainly true. -There is no statistical difference in fatalities from all causes, between 2020 and the previous 9 years. Just an 0.6-0.7% increase in population on average. -The difference between total deaths in 019 vs 020 is less than the average difference between the other consecutive years. -If you subtract the 350k covid deaths, you have a larger anomaly in total deaths. A 'black swan event' spanning decades. -If covid is 12% of all deaths, that is 1 of every 8. A large number of people would have first hand knowledge of at least one covid death. Not the 2nd and 3rd hand accounts I was personally limited to. The answer-bogus numbers and a bogus brand new way of counting them. https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/94-covid-deaths-had-conditions-110155254.htmlhttps://www.wfla.com/community/health/coronavirus/new-cdc-report-shows-94-of-covid-19-deaths-in-us-had-underlying-medical-conditions/As the average age of covid fatalities (80+) exceeds the average life expectancy (78), I will add it. 2.6 average co-morbidities+death from old age+covid equals 4.6 things average resulting in the 350k deaths Obviously, all were counted as covid. Why? To get direct payments to providers from the Feds though the CARE Act. Widely reported to be $5k-$39k per patient hospitalized. I have no reference for the last single statement. How? Bogus testing. PCR and RT-PCR tests. Polymerase Chain Reaction tests.
36
« on: January 12 2021, 10:44:58 AM »
There are federal penalties for misrepresentin g the census numbers. Less ability to play with the numbers. The references are at the bottom of the attachment.
"If we ignore the cause of death, the number of deaths in 2020 would appear to be about 12% above 2019-for the United States. Ignoring the cause of death tends to address the claims of the doubters that the death rate is normal because people die of the flu every year or the numbers are inflated because someone fell off the ladder and was put down as a covid death initially before being corrected."
37
« on: November 06 2020, 09:09:56 PM »
I sent wmsonta a PM with my number. I am in central Virginia. ----------------------- I get involved with a lot of good mechanics, none in Va. I will get you my contact info also. If I answer the phone, I am setting here looking at it. No cell. The trans builder did say he builds them for factory pressures. Regarding the other rebuild parts it was supposed to be built to handle 400+ HP, but I can only trust it was......so IDK. ---------------------------- The good folks on this board use the R4 far beyond its design parameters. If you paid attention to the TV adjustment in this thread, you will/should be ok. Too tight, it will live some. Too loose and the lifespan is hundreds of miles or less. An oem trans will hold 275 hp easily. FTI offers 1 free re-stall within the first year, so I guess its just shipping. They came highly recommended and that is a nice service. Basically this one but lockup delete: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fti-esrl3082-27
----------------------
Distributor: If you are suggesting that a different than simply HEI distributor is advisable I did see the following option, since the MSD stuff is an arm and a leg (BUt even this one is $$$) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-csum2750 A small diameter like this is nice for the Nova/Firebird/Camaro ......so close to the firewall that the big HEI's are really annoying, I had to dent my firewall some to get access. ----------------------- That looks manufactured by Mallory. If so, it will be easier to re-curve and won't have any spark scatter, etc, inherent in 1/3 of HEI's. Summit will give you the manufacturer. I wouldn't pay that money with out knowing what to expect. If money is an issue, you can investigate the quality of the one you have. It wouldn't take much to see what you are dealing with. I believe you to have the skill and investigation will not require the tenacity of a re-curve. Also, you might could find that 50 hp I keep harping about. I do have a trans cooler.
Even with this lockup delete the 0.67 OD ratio is nice, 60/70mph its rolling at around 2k RPM. -------------------------- The motor is not built well for a 2000 cruise. However, I am not about to start telling owners what to do with their time/sweat/money. With a 3000 stall it is not going to cruise at 2000, except downhill.
38
« on: November 06 2020, 01:37:16 PM »
The tighter cable I mentioned in my post last night did really help when I drove it today. Let me know if these readings sound fairly normal for trans operation.
Idle 700-800RPM it is around 60PSI
When you bury the pedal from a stop is burns some tire and going to 120PSI quickly then climbs to 150PSI
Shifting at 4500RPM into 2nd (~35MPH) at around 150PSI and stays around there while in 2nd.
And then into 3rd also I think 4500RPM not sure speed exactly but I think 60-70MPH and I am not sure what the trans PSI is doing, too busy watching the road at that point.
When it is just before 2nd gear and in early 3rd gear there is a fair amount of needle bouncing, probably +/-25 PSI, so that 150PSI I mentioned above stays around 150 but does bounce +/-25 if I had to guess. Its hard to read the gauge in the shaking video I made, the gauge is taped to the windshield so its got glare and angle to contend with as well.
When just cruising around 2kPRM the PSI is between 60 and 90, when I then punch it will jump to about 150PSI. You will have some amount of longevity. Ed's link is useful info. However, the excellent pressures listed should be considered a high end 'builder' trans. The min pressures listed, IMO, are somewhat above most oem 200/700 R4 trans. Yours APPEARS to be a straight oem rebuild. If you are going to run an OD trans non-lockup with the stall the engine needs (3000), what is the advantage? Its a mechanical Holley Fuel pump and is giving the spec 5-7PSI regulated with a gauge inline shows that it is around 6. IMO, you are done with that. It is a Large Cap OEM style HEI, I think it is one of the cheap ones Summit sells for around $75, came new with the engine. I did try a friends used one and likely factory HEI and no difference, but that was before I had gotten this carb on it and this intake and the 4degree cam change when I tried that distributor. New Taylor wires, new plugs.
I could dial the timing back to total of 35 and see how it does. I refuse to have this complete discussion, if I have to type it. You have a motor that requires a custom distributor curve to be right and the hardest known distributor to custom curve. The following are MY OPINIONS. In my world, to guarantee rational longevity, you have to limit the total advance to Ed's 35 or my 34. No way around this. Without a dist re-curve, you will hate it. Mere mortals will be on suicide watch before a competent HEI re-curve. I stopped doing them 20 yrs ago. I can walk you though it, but not if I have to type it. It sounds like the suggestion is to set idle around 1k instead of the 7-800 i have it at? If I do that it may make the 60PSI go higher at idle, so I my need to loosen the TV? ? Solid rollers and any flat tappet require 1000rpm min idle, in my world. I want all of the lubrication I can get. Once the TV is properly set, idle it where you want. The new converter I got is an FTI and is a 9" dia 2800 stall, need to install it sometime. One in the car is stalling around 2200 (Hughes 12"converter rated 2k)
Probably less than 20% of buyers end up with the stall they bought. If non-lockup and OD trans, you will need a cooler. If you end up close to 3000 stall, you could maybe get away from a re-curve by running locked out timing. 34-35 initial. An HEI will then have rotor phasing issues probably. Any of this can be fixed. How tough are you? It may be time to verify the dyno results. I do not trust some. I own a '72 Nova, it will run about 97mph @ 260hp. The same weight @275 is about 100. 325 is about 105. Use a cell and GPS or a Garmin. God, I hope this helps. I could give you my number. Where do you live?
39
« on: November 05 2020, 03:45:01 PM »
Something's horribly wrong.
It is going to be ignition. Losing that much power. Probably a large cap oem style HEI. It would probably need to be new to the owner. No history. The last serious ignition problem I dealt with lost 200-250 hp. Owner said it ran well but was down on power. After the repair, it went from 12.4 to 10.05. 383 sbc, about 600-640 hp, NA. Car had went 10.35 before. Without access to an inductive KV meter, Ken's easiest test would be to swap to a known good distributor. edit-or the wheel dyno missed by a lot. Not impossible.
40
« on: November 05 2020, 10:11:15 AM »
I did use a degree wheel and piston stop when I reset the timing/crank gear and I think it checks out. .............. .............. Is the split-overlap method redundant to what I did or is it testing something else? Completely redundant. I would move on. Regarding HP/Torque low at around 275, with this intake I put on it is up on one or both of those some for sure but I am not sure its worth the $ for a dyno check/tune just to post a number, but I am curious. I would not dyno again. Just me. Pump gas is 91 or 93, I can set the timing to something else easily enough, this is what one fella suggested. The engine guy said advance it until it pings and back it off some. I prefer a number to set to, but I understand the keep advancing it tactic can get you to peak power. I am with ED. I disagree any modern pump gas street car should have total advance greater than 35. Not counting vacuum advance. You should, IMO, pay attention to Ed's views on gas pressure. In my world, no Holley should be ran above 6#. A pair of the smallest Holley n/s (.097) will support 390 hp @ 6#. reading somewhere that I need to see if the trans PSI instantly started to rise with pedal application... .............. .......... going from low to high really fast, If I had to guess down to 100 up to 200. This seems odd, but I am not sure what the PSI is suppose do to under accelerating load This is what I want to see. Low pressure at idle. With perceptible throttle, it JUMPS to 90# min. Adjust the TV to this. Street/strip trans should continue to rise to about 190# or slightly more. Anything close. At least you have measured pressure. I like constant 200-240# for dedicated race. About wiped flat tappets...... Is there a way to verify if lobes are wiped, What I would do. Set idle with curb idle screw to about 1200 rpm. Put a vacuum gauge and check for bounce. Check again in 1k miles. No bounce does not mean you are not wiping lobe(s). It will mean that this is not the missing power. Vacuum at 1k RPM is 12-13 inHg and ISKY indicated that was about right for the cam. They said they want to know vacuum at 1k, the 9-10 inHg is at 7-800RPM which is where I have the idle set.
I agree with all. With that info, I would not have got involved with cam timing. I would not allow idle below 1000. Aftermarket flat tappet. I did not read your lengthy post on the other board and will have limited time to respond here.....I would be looking for 50+ hp, good luck.
41
« on: November 04 2020, 05:03:06 PM »
KenBean- if you would like to check true cam timing, it can be done without any disassembly or pulling the engine. The split overlap method. Widely used method until about the late '60's. You would need a piston stop to verify true TDC. I can walk you though it. It involves pulling one valve cover.
I have read more of the Nova board post, because of the election and have no fault with some of the advise there.
The cam is apparently 232*/232* @ .050 on a 112 CL. With your exhaust this is large enough to disguise wiped flat tappet lobes on startup. Not uncommon.
At 275 hp, something is wrong. I have an all GM smog 350 (7.8 to 1, 194*/202* on a 112) that makes 260. Aftermarket dist, intake, headers, exhaust. Almost 20 in vacuum.
42
« on: November 04 2020, 02:24:35 PM »
with the cams retarded.
Another discussion of generic cars on a turbo Buick board. I have been involved with a number of dedicated race motors that required retarded cam timing to keep from bending all of the exh valves. If you do not know valve to piston clearance, where the cam is timed or what the cam is, you probably should not arbitrarily advance the camshaft. Especially with borderline high street compression. If your timing set is reliable enough to trust and you advance it 4*, was the cam cut 4* advanced? A lot are. You are now 8* advanced and need .080 min exhaust to piston clearance for race. Street, I want .100" Brag incoming. The 360 in that picture is 100% pump gas/street. In a half ton Dodge, it went 11.85 @112. It now has 80k and its second set of valve springs. NA.
43
« on: November 04 2020, 12:30:05 PM »
KenBean-
Changing cam timing w/o verification? I may post picture related.
44
« on: November 04 2020, 11:41:12 AM »
KenBean-I read part of your thread on the Nova forum. IMO, you have more issues than trans.
Apparently, 175-180# compression @ 9-10 in vacuum with initial+mechanical advance = 40*? Changing cam timing w/o verification? I may post picture related.
The trans pressure is close enough to have some longevity. Time to work though some of this.
If pump gas, you should reduce total advance yesterday. JMHO.
45
« on: September 13 2020, 02:44:40 PM »
As I mentioned, I am going to wire a GM HEI ignition system.
If you get as deep into distributors as I, I would advise you to at least look into the MSD E Street dist. The days of Sun dist machines and simple re curves are long over. If you are talking the large coil in cap HEI, they are hard and labor intensive to properly curve. Even with nearly 50 years experience, GM HEI is a number of compromises. I advised and recently helped with the second one. A 454 ton trk w/dump bed. The owner expects to gain half the cost from mileage increase over OEM. They are expensive. Single coil, no box, no additional wiring. A custom curve in 2 minutes. I consider these to be the best answer at any cost from ton trks to 600 hp/7000rpm STREET. looking is free.
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