IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: kjhansen on December 18 2021, 04:16:57 PM
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So I fixed the leak from the passenger side valve cover gasket. But the car is still leaking oil. I got the oil leak detection kit, but it's not much help, other than the fact that I don't see oil coming out from under that valve cover. The leak appears to be coming from somewhere above the front brace that connects the frame rails in front of the deep part of the oil pan. I tried to take a picture through the yellow glasses and with the UV flashlight aimed at the dyed oil, but that didn't work out so well--mostly because I didn't have enough hands and also probably due to the limitations of the telephone camera. I've attached it anyway. The bright yellow is the general area of the leak. It isn't a very good representation as the actual bright yellow is much smaller and mostly on the vertical back of the crossmember. Any thoughts?
Keith
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oil pressure sender, front seal, oil pump itself, front or rear of intake manifold? Have to do some clean up and see with some baby powder in my world.
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Check the turbo drain back line both at the turbo and the block (and cracks in the line). Also be sure the fitting that screws into the block that the drainback line connects to is tight. Then check around the oil pump to see if it is leaking where it joins the oil cooler adapter. Also the oil pressure sender where it screws in....make sure it is not cracked or whatever.... This stuff is on the passenger side so it's all suspect along with the pan gasket LOL...that narrow it down?
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While your list doesn't seem "narrow," it's a lot narrower than "it could be anything." So, thank you. Work to do!
Keith
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Have you tested your PCV valve to verify that it blocks boost pressure from entering crankcase?
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Not yet. Will do.
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Tightned up everything I could see and reach. We'll see what happens.
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Rockers always leaked on my engine. I used every fukn gasket going. Got pissed off and used the Right Stuff on it...no more leaks. Just need a crowbar to get the rockers off.
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Rockers always leaked on my engine. I used every fukn gasket going. Got pissed off and used the Right Stuff on it...no more leaks. Just need a crowbar to get the rockers off.
Have you try Victor VS 39763 TC General Motors V/6 196 231 252 Engine Valve Cover Gasket (EBay)
EBay has them for about $15.66.
I had them on for about 15 years with no leaks, and just recently replaced the value springs I used my same spare set and again no leak when start up.
The only thing using this gasket I had to used a Dremel with a round sanding bit to take off about 1/8" only one side of the gasket holes. This is due to the nature of valve cover gets narrow towards the valve cover mounting hole hear the bolt holes. I then put some RTV on the valve cover place Victor's gasket and NO RTV on the heads.
The heads are not mill flat, and this gasket has a very thin metal sandwich between cork material, and when you tighten the valve cover bolts this gasket will bend just enough compensate the little rounded heads.
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The car is long gone.
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I replaced the PCV valve, which was unexpectedly difficult (the grommet part). This is the PCV valve that was in it and the new one I got from Kirban Performance. The old one, you could blow through it from either side. The new one, you couldn't. This might be part of my oil leak problem. Not sure yet.
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It should change your blms for the better. It might reduce oil consumption. Not sure about a leak.
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If you could blow through both sides that means boost pressure was getting into the engine causing oil to blow out from the pan gasket mostly.
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That's what I feared.
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Boost pressure drops as soon as it emerges from whatever restriction the pcv creates...that is just the way the physics works. If the volume of air coming out of the pcv is large enuf to overwhelm the valve cover breathers, it might eventually build some pressure in the crankcase but this would take prolonged operation under boost which does not happen often.
Pan gasket install is pretty iffy. Too loose bolts are problematic and too tight of bolts cut the gasket like it was made out of a soft material...oh, wait, it is. torque values are very important on the pan install.
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Turns out it's the oil pressure sending unit. HOWEVER, since the car has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (a "Cobalt" by Autometer), I'll have to find someplace that sells the appropriate sending unit. Plus the power steering pump sprang a leak too, and now goes through a reservoir full of fluid in about 30 miles or less.
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If it is an electrical gauge, then you can get one thru Autometer. Someone like Summit may list it without going directly to Autometer. sounds like a new pump is in your future. Old cars, still cheaper than newer ones