IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: motorhead on August 21 2013, 10:29:42 PM
-
Yup, I am now a 100% certified wagon nut. :rofl:
Here are some pics from tonight's delivery all the way from Wichita, KS. And believe it or not there isn't an engine or transmission in this car - damn it is low! Overall it is very clean and should make for a great basis for a new project car: a family war wagon.
The plan as of right now:
Aluminum block LS-something, I want light weight. It could be the LS1/4L60E out of Natasha's Camaro if it doesn't sell soon, or I'd prefer a 6.2L/6L80E combo with much lower mileage. The LS1 would need some parts thrown at it to freshen it up (how much I won't know until I open it up) cam, springs, lifters, rocker arm trunnion upgrade, oil pump, and maybe new better flowing heads. Originally I want to build a high-horsepower blown beast, but have since realized that would miss the purpose of the car - so I am going to exercise some restraint... for now. :icon_madu:
There is an advantage to using the Camaro for parts as it has everything I need to do a complete swap (less the motor mount brackets and some fuel system parts and fittings). Plus, I can snag the disc brakes (front and rear), cruise control, A/C parts and so on. The disadvantage is that I may end up stuck with a rolling chassis until someone comes to buy it.
Another downside is that I will always be limited to a 4LX0E transmission (or a standalone controller for another tranny = mega $$$) or a 6 speed manual conversion (which I truly want); the latter means Natasha has to learn to drive stick - which isn't a bad thing (at least until something doesn't go her way). This also means that the rearend ratio has to remain conservative as I want good mileage out of this car - it currently has 3.73s in a 7.625" 10-bolt.
Currently the car is riding on what looks like a set of 15x7 and 15x5 set of Weld Rod Lites, and worn 255s and 205s respectively. I think I'd like to keep these wheels for now IF I can fit them over the LS1 brakes. I'd also like to go to at least a 275/60R15 in the back (295s would be cooler, but might bulge too much on the 7" wide wheel) and 195s up front for some pseudo big and little action. However, I can still do a big tire and wheel combo if I want, as I have a set of C6 ZO6 wheels sitting in the garage - it just means more cutting in the rear (not that I am shy about cutting up a car to make an impression/point).
Exhaust is currently an aluminized crush bent dual 2.5" system with some Flowmasters, in relatively good condition - it also has some electric cutouts built into it. I figure this will be fine for now, but I am sure I'll end up building a dual stainless 3" system for it down the road.
Suspension is up in the air, and will probably be dictated by the tire and wheel combo.
Other than that it needs some minor cosmetic work (like tinting the rear hatch), and replacing some seals/weather stripping (although much of it is in great condition).
-
A few more.
-
Niceee wagons.are cool. I.had a 93 roadmaster w some.duel.exh and flows :icon_eyes: I.loved that car and I.was single w no.kids.. wagons :icon_kidra: enjoy it and I look.fwd to.updates :cheers:
-
looks good. That's a pretty sweet garage you have too.
-
Looks good, Mike! You will have a lot of fun with that!
-
Mike,
Car looks great, keep us updated on it's progress. :)
-
Nice! I always preferred the Pontiac dash to the Buick one..
-
ya keeping the 8 track? :rock: :rofl:
-
Thanks guys! I think Natasha is more excited than I am... if only because I have to do all of the work. :chin:
That's a pretty sweet garage you have too.
Thanks! It came with the house, I've been kitting it out over the last few years.
-
ya keeping the 8 track? :rock: :rofl:
Um, no. CD/MP3-ready head unit coming right up; and it definitely needs a full audio system.
-
What engine? I am sure I missed that somewhere. :P
-
What engine? I am sure I missed that somewhere. :P
I just updated the first post with a rough plan.
-
Mike,
Is the car currently set up for a manual transmission or is it a console car? I don't see a shifter on the column is why I ask.
-
Mike,
Is the car currently set up for a manual transmission or is it a console car? I don't see a shifter on the column is why I ask.
It has some sort of factory ratchet shifter out of a Firebird tucked under a half console. I do however, have the parts for a g-body manual trans conversion.
-
Couple of quarts of POR-15, a gallon of both Marine Clean and Metal-Prep are on their way from Eastwood. Along with a 33.75 sq/ft kit of their sound deadener.
-
That is gonna be a really nice car when you are done with it.
-
Got the car up in the air yesterday to start poking around... no major surprises at this time, other than having standard thread lug nuts (I think 80-81 was when they started switching over to the metric system) - time to swap to metric studs/lugs. I started sizing it up for a mini-tub/frame notch which I will probably start this week. Wagons look much easier than coupes/sedans because of the lack of trunk hinges to worry about.
Also started looking into coil-over shocks for the car so we can keep it low and still have good suspension travel/ride comfort. It looks like it is going to cost about $800-1000 for the front and $600+ for the rear. I think we'll be using AFCO when this comes to fruition with moderate spring rates and big swaybars.
-
Looks good Mike.
-
any reason not to use the qa1 system from spohn? free shipping over 500 :player:
-
QA1 is junk, or at least it was. It is only popular because it came to market first. The AFCO system uses a larger piston rod/shaft, and believe it or not because it is used in racing is easier to tune to a car via the spring selection.
RideTech claims you have to use their front LCAs or risk failure which is total bullshit as you just have to reinforce the stock arms.
-
Looks good Mike.
Thanks!
I've really gotten into this car and tearing it down to make some rust repairs and modifications - the interior is all out (less the dash).
Rust-free cars rarely ever are - the floor pans are acceptable (mostly pinholes) and a portion of one body mount is smoked (before pics attached). I picked up the steel for the frame notch/mini-tub as well. I've also pulled out a significant amount of weight in the form of insulation padding, dried up seam sealer, and that large metal sheet used to cover up the "bed" area in the back (I think an aluminum sheet is a good replacement over top of the spare tire well, no?).
I am dying to get a chance to put an engine in this thing...
-
Wheel fitment ideas...
305/30R19s would fit nicely on the Vette wheels, and those are 325/45R17s on the 17x9.5s.
-
You plan on painting it?
-
You plan on painting it?
Black? No. Not surprisingly I've been hearing that a lot lately... and really I don't care. I saw this car in direct sunlight and it glows - literally glows. I think this car represents me getting out of my rut, or signature (?), of always going black and doing something different. I will admit when I had them all out in the driveway during the shuffle, the wagon did look very weird amongst the black cars; and should do the same on the highway passing the blacks, silvers and whites of other peoples's mobile appliances.
Truth is this car looks to become the antithesis of everything I've built to date; the colour is just the biggest clue to the change.
Oh and here some pics from yesterday's work!
-
Put some wood paneling on the side for the ultimate sleeper look. :player: :rofl:
-
That's what I was thinking. ^^^
-
Put some wood paneling on the side for the ultimate sleeper look. :player: :rofl:
Yes, Now don't take this the wrong way but-
Make it a Woodie!
:O
-
(http://static.flickr.com/96/241652908_58ad941f2c.jpg?v=0)
Something like this?
-
G-Body Family Truckster - Awesome!
-
Here is yesterday's metal work. The bending jig/metal brake is two sections of 1" square tubing, a couple of flat washers, and some clamps - all stuck in a vice. I used a hammer to help form the ridges.
I am glad to say that I have finally finished fixing the floors of my "rust free" Southern car. Time to mini-tub it!
-
The scary thing about this thread is that car looks mint and the floors still had a little rust spot I'm scared to lift my carpet now.
-
The scary thing about this thread is that car looks mint and the floors still had a little rust spot I'm scared to lift my carpet now.
If you have t-tops you may very well have t-floors.
-
The scary thing about this thread is that car looks mint and the floors still had a little rust spot I'm scared to lift my carpet now.
Take a small welding hammer and *chip* at the floors from below and see what happens.
-
The scary thing about this thread is that car looks mint and the floors still had a little rust spot I'm scared to lift my carpet now.
Take a small welding hammer and *chip* at the floors from below and see what happens.
The funny thing is in my case this method would have been marginally fruitless as the holes were only pinholes after I scrubbed with a hard steel brush and hammered the floor pans from the inside. I don't blame the seller for claiming "rust free" because it technically hadn't shown any indication of a problem until I started poking around - because I am dumb like that.
Oh, and I tested the surrounding metal with a sharp awl and a big hammer... if it doesn't poke through you are good to go. Using an air hammer with a metal shear is a good way to loosen up any problem areas too.
Every large panel shown is a 1" lap welded piece to ensure integrity in the repair, just in case I overlooked a spot near by.
-
Can someone confirm if this proportioning valve is suitable for a g-body?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pv-2/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pv-2/overview/)
The one on the wagon (and Monte for that matter) is the cast iron unit.
-
Can someone confirm if this proportioning valve is suitable for a g-body?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pv-2/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pv-2/overview/)
The one on the wagon (and Monte for that matter) is the cast iron unit.
Hmmmm... this one says it is for 4 wheel disc conversions (which is what I am aiming for): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-pv72/overview/year/1980/make/pontiac/model/lemans (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-pv72/overview/year/1980/make/pontiac/model/lemans)
I wonder if it is the first part with the internal guts removed?
-
Kirban lowered the price on his, its about the same price
-
Someone's already duplicated the truckster and it was on ABC news in the last week or 2 so that idea's been done. Now what would be interesting is to duplicate one of the few Pontiac wagons that I saw years ago. It had an original style GTO hood on it and from what I read there were a few that actually had it from the factory. :rock:
-
Note to file: Dewalt 14 TPI reciprocating saw blades suck.
Milwaukee's Torch blades are a gift from the Gods.
-
Torch blades are the shit!
-
Torch blades are the shit!
No kidding. I used 5 Dewalt blades to do the passenger side of the car, and just ONE Torch blade (with Ice teeth... cryogenicly frozen) to do the entire driver side; plus all the trimming and cutting for the brackets. Amazing product for $2 more for a pack of 5.
-
Done notching the frame... and yes a 19x12 rim does fit in there now. Tee hee!
-
I am beginning to realize that I am an INCREDIBLY difficult person to deal with.
I caught wind that OPG has 3" lowering springs for the back (and front) of a G-body station wagon (along with other G-bodies). This is good news because I plan on installing "NASCAR" style spring jacking bolts/plates in the car to help balance the suspension/ride height in the rear - wagons seem to really suffer from corner lean.
So I call OPG to ask about their springs (http://www.opgi.com/malibu/1980/chassis-suspension/suspension-components/L201329 (http://www.opgi.com/malibu/1980/chassis-suspension/suspension-components/L201329)) and their lb/in ratings.
"Uh duh... we don't have the information..." - they respond
"Okay... who makes them for you?"
"JAMCO." - they say
"Excellent, thank you."
So I call JAMCO (http://www.jamcosuspension.com (http://www.jamcosuspension.com)) and wait to talk to a "tech adviser". Same round of "your question is too complex and I don't want to talk to you, please go away" BS.
Basically it came down to: "Oh they are custom ordered and would be made to that order by the factory which isn't here."
To which I replied: "Great. However, these springs currently exist because they are in OPG's catalog and can be ordered at any time. Now would you please call the factory, ask to talk to engineering and get me the spring rate for the rear 3" lowering springs for a 1980 Pontiac LeMans station wagon?"
End of day they said... I see the same thing developing that I got with Highway Stars and Factory Reproductions: radio silence.
-
I am beginning to realize that I am an INCREDIBLY difficult person to deal with.
NOW you know this?
:rofl:
-
Just go coil overs and be done with it. :P
-
Just go coil overs and be done with it. :P
Coil-overs are not off the table yet. However, going with jacking bolts/plates I can adjust the car from inside, and won't have to climb underneath it. I am weighing the costs vs. benefits of both systems.
-
So onto shocks. After a little research it seems to be beneficial to run a digressive shock vs. a linear unit.
An explanation of the differences: ORW Bilstein Digressive vs. Linear Valving (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMnZTodTCZ0#ws)
http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/139_0307_shock_absorber_tech/viewall.html (http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/139_0307_shock_absorber_tech/viewall.html)
I am a big fan of the Bilstein shocks on both my Buick and TBSS, with the latter have over 100K miles on them. The interesting thing is if you go looking for Bilstein shocks for a G-body you get two choices: HD linear and the standard linear shocks (PNs AK1043 & AK1044). However, if you search for a Chevelle/Malibu (aka an A-Body up to MY 1983) you get a much greater selection: http://cart.bilsteinus.com/pdfs/motorsports.pdf (http://cart.bilsteinus.com/pdfs/motorsports.pdf) - see pages 8 and 9.
Based on my research it seems that the travel rates sec/in for the AK1043 shocks are 358#/219# (compression over rebound) in the front, and 254#/141# out back; these are designed for an iron block SBC in a typical G-body which has a significant front end weight bias as compared to a wagon which is closer to 50/50 especially with low options and plans for an aluminum small block (like ours here, estimated final weight around 3300lbs). So with that thought in mind I am pretty confident that the AK6565F at 325#/220# and AK5030R at 300#/120# should prove pretty suitable, especially once the back of this wagon is loaded with the family's stuff.
I will need to drop the cantilever mount on the differential about 2-3" to compensate for the suspension drop to keep the shock in the middle of its 7" of travel once the back is lowered. The front end has 2" drop spindles, which I am going to keep despite the errors it introduces into the suspension geometry, in order to run a taller spring and maintain (as close to) the 5" of total suspension travel the shocks are designed for
I figure these, plus some stock style springs (thinking stock GN springs up front and the OPG "OEM rate" 3" lowering springs in the back) and the Hellwig Pro-Touring hollow swaybars should prove a suitable combination. The classic small spring/big bar formula.
Total cost new will be about $1000 taxes in - which is about the cost of just two coil-overs.
-
Hellwig 55700 Front 1-5/16" Hollow
Hellwig 55809 Rear 1" Hollow
-
There is a 4-6 week lead time on the OPG springs, and the cost/logistics of getting my hands on them isn't making me "happy".
So after a 45min phone conversation with my personal tech line (aka my brother) we determined that a better option would be fitting another spring for another application to the car.
The stock wagon in its most optioned form came from the factory with 400lb/in springs in the front and 140lb/in in the rear (according the factory spec manual). Unfortunately it (I am certain) wallowed like fat guy running around a race track; and wheezed the same too.
So the determination is that we need about 1.5-1.75 times greater spring rates, in the range of 600-700lb/in the front and 210-250lb/in in the rear to take the slop out of the ride, but not throw ride quality out the window. The rears are going to need to be in the range of 7" installed height (like the OPG springs), given the stock springs installed at 10".
Finding the right solution in here shouldn't be too hard once I figure out the spring pocket size and choose a workable design: http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/MOOG_Coil_Springs_Spec.pdf (http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moog/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/MOOG_Coil_Springs_Spec.pdf)
Going with front springs from the old spring chart takes the guess work out of the front: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm (http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm) (even if the information is contradictory to the MOOG link above, for the F-body springs).
And all for about $50 a pair.
-
You might want to look at my post on the poor mans suspension upgrade. It should give you some of the spring rates ect that might work for you. :icon_smile:
-
You might want to look at my post on the poor mans suspension upgrade. It should give you some of the spring rates ect that might work for you. :icon_smile:
Link me.... as I am lazy. ;)
-
This is the only place I posted it so very few know the info. :icon_smile:
http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=3268.0 (http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=3268.0)
-
This is the only place I posted it so very few know the info. :icon_smile:
http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=3268.0 (http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?topic=3268.0)
Ah yes, I have read that. Good info there... however, I am going to avoid project hell by staying away from replacing the bushings and ball joints which are quite new.
-
Ball joints I could understand but define what "new" on the bushings is. Stock rubber bushings start to rot the second they're off the assembly line and if they're 5 years old or older you can start having problems with them.
-
Ball joints I could understand but define what "new" on the bushings is. Stock rubber bushings start to rot the second they're off the assembly line and if they're 5 years old or older you can start having problems with them.
Oddly enough they are about 8 years old with 5000 miles on them according to the previous owner. I am not certain if they are rubber (noting the oxidization) or polyurethane.. . but, they seem to squeak like the latter.
If and when I do get into the control arms on this thing I will be using a combo of johnny/roto joints and polyurethane from UMI - I really like them on the Buick.
-
Decoded the VIN: http://service.gm.com/dealerworld/vincards/ (http://service.gm.com/dealerworld/vincards/)
Turns out our Pontiac was built in Pontiac, MI; and came with a 3.8L 2 barrel from the factory. Definitely a bare-bones machine.
-
Suspension ordered.
The shocks are coming out of Alabama. The only place I could find the AK6565F front and the AK5030R rear shocks under the same roof was a speed shop called Etheridge Race Parts.
Amazon.com is sending me the Hellwig swaybars and MOOG springs. I went with the 5660 (600lb/in) and 80670 (180lb/in) springs. The 80670s are 7" at installed height and are meant for a Pontiac Vibe. They are pig-tailed on one end (opening ID unknown) and "flat" coiled at the other, the diameter is 5.3"; I am taking a bit of a risk here - but it should be workable if the pig-tailed end is at least 2.75" ID. The other 7" installed height spring I was looking at was 80659 (194lb/in) which is the rear spring for a late-model FWD Buick Park Avenue, unfortunately(?) it is a double pig-tailed spring and cannot be modified.
It took a massive amount of self control not to buy the 760+lb/in and 230+lb/in springs. I had to keep telling myself: Family car... Family car... Family car...
-
How did you get amazon.com to ship to canada? The .ca version doesn't have the bars on it. I may be confused though.
-
How did you get amazon.com to ship to canada? The .ca version doesn't have the bars on it. I may be confused though.
I had it sent to a buddy's place in Michigan. He is going to run them across to my brother, my brother will drag them to my Mom's place, and so on...
-
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-Weight-Jack,3386.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-Weight-Jack,3386.html)
(http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91645535_L.jpg)
The plate is 5.5" across the face. Which should work out with the ID of the new springs at 5.3" after some locator tabs are added to the outside.
-
Did you get the coarse or fine thread screws? Reason I ask is that the course ones you can't turn them very much or you'll adjust the height way to much.
-
Not sure. They look coarse... but what do I know? LOL.
Truth is I need about 1" of adjustment to compensate for the corner weight/chassis lean. Or atleast according to the different length springs the previous owner had back there.
-
1980's build quality leaves a lot to be desired; just sayin'...
-
Can anyone recommend a good commercially available automotive seam sealer?
Nevermind... found a Canadian company: http://dominionsureseal.com/ (http://dominionsureseal.com/)
-
Anything crosscanada autoparts ( the big LKQ crash subsidiary) has you can order at partsource.
http://www.crosscanadaparts.com/ (http://www.crosscanadaparts.com/)
Notice all the gbody parts that others like to pretend they only have.
-
Just trundling along...
-
and along...
-
Does anyone know of another source for these hubs? http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i5.html (http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i5.html)
I'd go with the "make your own" approach but there are very few quality machine shops in a government city.
-
There are several places you can get them, but if you want to make it a little easier, I've got a set of B body knuckles for 12" rotors. You're going to use a non stock upper arm anyway so it shouldn't be an issue.
-
There are several places you can get them, but if you want to make it a little easier, I've got a set of B body knuckles for 12" rotors. You're going to use a non stock upper arm anyway so it shouldn't be an issue.
I have the same B-body set up on my Buick, and I'd rather stick with the stock front suspension (plus drop spindles) on this wagon.
Can you tell me what other sources are out there for the hubs? Thanks!
-
This guys site isn't done yet but the contact info is there.
http://www.renzfab.com/products.asp (http://www.renzfab.com/products.asp)
I believe bear (sp) also offers them. I used to have a site that had all the dimensions of all the brake adapters in a PDF format and you could download them as well as how much to cut the hub, but I can't find them any more. :013:
-
I thought people were generally just getting old gbody rotors turned down to a spec that fit?
-
Not always. You can get custom forged aluminum replacements as well. :icon_smile:
-
those sounds pretty sweet
-
I thought people were generally just getting old gbody rotors turned down to a spec that fit?
If I could find a trustworthy machine shop locally I would have gone this route... but, this is Ottawa and no one does anything for themselves.
-
Well I just ordered a shit tonne of parts for this thing from Car Shop Inc (motor mount plates, tools), Speedway Motors (fuel system), Summit (fuel system, prop valve, tools), UMI Performance (roto-joint rear UCAs, LCA relocation brackets, tie rod adjusters), Speedhut (Revolution series gauges 4" tach and speedo; and 2-1/16" voltmeter, oil press, water temp and fuel gauges), Eastwood (paints and seam sealer), Amazon (car audio and fuel tank sending unit from an Astro van), and SDPC (CNC LS2 heads, gaskets and LS7 roller lifters) etc.
-
That's a couple hundred pounds, tops. You aren't even close to a "shit-tonne".
Step up your game, son.
;)
-
That's a couple hundred pounds, tops. You aren't even close to a "shit-tonne".
Step up your game, son.
;)
Working on ordering a built trans/converter for the TBSS, a custom cam (and supporting mods (ie. springs, pushrods, oil pump, etc) for the wagon, and a fuel pump. Getting closer to that tonne.
-
Ordered the cam this morning from Speed Inc and it looks like this:
226/230 .605"/.609" 113+3
Should work very well from off idle (ish) to 6500rpm. I will likely have to run a 3000 converter with it to offset the cam and the 3.08 gears. The LXL lobes I chose from Comp are softer lobes designed for LS7 applications with a 1.8 rocker, using the LS1 1.7s softens them up even more. This made the most sense since the LS7 cam is a good swap into any LS motor, and the added advantage is the powerband is moved lower to be more usuable by advancing it 3 degrees.
"The LXL series is based off the Comp Cams LSL profiles but are optimized with lower acceleration rates and softer closing ramps for less valve train noise and better stability with the high ratio LS rocker arms. Great choice for street/strip applications and engines that see a lot of highway driving with the occasional weekend at the autocross or drag strip. For cathedral style LS heads, Comp recommends using this lobe on the exhaust and an LSL lobe on the intake when using the stock 1.7 rocker ratio. For applications using 1.8 or higher ratios or LS7 style heads, Comp recommends using this series on both the intake and exhaust lobes for applications that demand a quiet valvetrain and proven power increases. These lobe designs provide excellent torque and valvetrain durability for road race, street/strip, and endurance applications. Please consult with the SDPC Professionals to make certain you have the correct valve spring and valvetrain components to match your custom cam selection."
I chose to do the LXL/LXL vs the LSL/LXL combo to save some wear on the springs as the LSL lobes would have been a touch taller at .612" or .614"; the springs chosen are good for .625" lift.
These are the comments from a noted cam spec guru (regarding the LSA supercharged engines): "LXL is a bit slower then LSL and has softer ramp. If using Comp I like the LSL/LXL or LXL/LXL combos on these cars depending on rocker ratio and how the heads flow. Both of those lobes are easier on the valve train then some of the other designs popular in the LSx world (XER, LSK etc..) even though they have a pretty good amount of lift even with a stock rocker. The LXL lobes offer a relatively quiet valve train with proper setup (compared to many other LS lobe designs)."
Hopefully this will get us in the 8lbs/hp range once the car is all said and done.
Fun times.
-
Speed Inc ftw :rock:
I've got their SI5 in my bird. For an old grind with old lobes it does pretty well :)
I'd run no less than 3600 stall behind a stock LS1 - let alone a cammed one :chin:
-
Speed Inc ftw :rock:
I've got their SI5 in my bird. For an old grind with old lobes it does pretty well :)
I'd run no less than 3600 stall behind a stock LS1 - let alone a cammed one :chin:
They did try to sell me a shelf grind and I had to fight to get what I wanted. But, otherwise it was an okay transaction.
I managed to get my credit card frozen today between them and the Level 5 trans we ordered from RPM for the TBSS
-
Their shelf grinds have proven themselves. The thing about LS's it you really can't cam them wrong. They make good power regardless.
You'll be happy with RPM's trans - they are good dudes.
-
Yeah the LS family of engines are cam whores. But, that is because they are all undercammed to begin with. My biggest concerns were where and how this motor would make power; and not just produce a cool guy dyno number. Area under the curve and driveability were key.
-
Spent some time running some quick simulations on the motor and potential combinations of parts. Each of these is running stock exhaust manifolds and mufflers... but, it gives an idea of where and how it should make power. Headers look like they will really wake this thing up (not shown).
-
So while I was running simulations on the probable engine combos I could go with, it kept nagging at me as to how much potential was left on the table with the addition of headers to the mix. The problem was that if I go with headers I would lose the ability to run cats, as I was planning on running stock F-body manifolds and cat-deletes (with the stock cats waiting on the shelf for emissions "issues"). The other issue was noise as I would see a serious increase in cabin noise (NHV) with headers. Also, because there isn't a good stainless G-body swap header on the market, I wasn't inclined to buy a mild steel header (coated or otherwise) regardless of price, or do the same with a small tube eBay F-body header or Pacesetter. Then I saw that Speed Engineering released a set of 1-3/4" primary headers (and look like a knock-off of the Pacesetters) for cheap and got to thinking...
After a lot of research I came to the conclusion that these headers (which I can afford to chop up to suit my application) and some 3" cats should flow/sound similarly to my previous plan of manifolds and delete pipes (not overly loud through a muffler). However, because the kid in me hasn't left the building yet, I figured I should continue with my plan to run electric cutouts so I ordered some stainless ones off eBay.
Catco 6907 flow numbers (365cfm @ 28" H2O): http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1550686662-post3.html (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1550686662-post3.html)
Straight pipe flow numbers (doesn't list test pressure): http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy (http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy)
And a really long paper I read on the way a close-coupled catalytic (ie. a cat mounted on a manifold or header collector) works (hint: having a good cold side (post-cat) is mandatory to reduce any restrictions on flow): http://www.mech.kuleuven.be/en/doctorates/persoons.pdf (http://www.mech.kuleuven.be/en/doctorates/persoons.pdf)
***Bonus reading: http://www.mie.uth.gr/labs/ltte/grk/pubs/exhsysht.pdf (http://www.mie.uth.gr/labs/ltte/grk/pubs/exhsysht.pdf)
I already have some long standing experience running a headered/3" catted car and have done as much as 116mph through generic ceramic core catalysts like the Catcos using a small-shot nitrous Chevy small block. So I know that power can be made with them in place, granted that was a full free-flowing 3" dual exhaust system and not the dual 2.25" crush-bent Flowmaster equipped system I will be attaching this to in the wagon; but, that is what the cut-outs are going to compensate for.
There is a general rule of thumb that 18" header extensions are best for most applications when using open exhaust, so these may have to be integrated into the cut-outs; as well they help prevent having the 02s wash out when the cut-outs are open (very bad for closed loop functionality). An example of the theory: http://www.headersbyed.com/hc_cheapperfgains.htm (http://www.headersbyed.com/hc_cheapperfgains.htm)
Using a "small tube header, open exhaust" the power increase is quite notable over previous iterations (see attached); but, in no way do I expect to see 500hp at the crank - this is just a behavioural indicator. A small single plane intake does some wonderful things too.
-
Cats are only going to kill a few ponies Mike.
When it comes to fbody's the biggest issue is the y-pipe.
I've ran over 130mph in the 1/4 with cheap ebay longtubes (which are comparable to the speed engineering pieces) going through a non smooth 3" to 3" y-pipe - it's closer to a T that an Y.
There is a pile of hp in the y-pipe I just haven't been able to weld much the last couple years.
If you want to take the next step - vband the cats so you can swap them out for test pipes :)
-
Cats are only going to kill a few ponies Mike.
When it comes to fbody's the biggest issue is the y-pipe.
I've ran over 130mph in the 1/4 with cheap ebay longtubes (which are comparable to the speed engineering pieces) going through a non smooth 3" to 3" y-pipe - it's closer to a T that an Y.
There is a pile of hp in the y-pipe I just haven't been able to weld much the last couple years.
If you want to take the next step - vband the cats so you can swap them out for test pipes :)
Oh I know, but I really like an un-muffled exhaust. It was Natasha that insisted that I put cats on the car; so I had to start shopping for a means to keep the power up. To this point I can't "remove" the cats; and I've been told to find a way to put them back on the TBSS. LOL!
I've been out in the garage today working on the wagon for the first time in months when I realized that I'd overlooked that early G-bodies have that odd-ball transmission cross member and lack the frame extension for the later piece. The reason this is important is because of where the cats will ultimately be placed, and the existing cross member: Sits. Right. There. FML... more fabrication.
-
Updates!
Finally got the rear wheel wells finished off - shown in etching primer (seam sealer and top coat is done (no pics), waiting on undercoating). We also got some (actually a lot) parts in the mail and waiting for more to arrive (soon?).
-
Moar pics!
-
And now some "cool guy" parts... including a lil' donkey dick camshaft.
-
how much are you going to have to modify the back seat to get it back in? Or just gonna go with custom stuff instead? Looking good. :cheers:
-
how much are you going to have to modify the back seat to get it back in?
If my measurements and planning works out: none. :D That is why the front of the wheel wells retained the stock tubs (albeit with a 1/2" added to the overall depth and width).
And in case you couldn't read the cam card:
Serial # D 2961-13 Spec Card# 24966813
Part # 54-000-11 CAMSHAFT, LS1 CHEVY LS1/GEN III '97-UP
Core C54-11HH CAMSHAFT BLANK, LS1 1997 UP 5.7 CORVETTE
Grind # LS1 13158 /13159 HR113.0
DURATION @ .050 INTAKE 227 ROCKER ARM RATIO
VALVE ADJ INTAKE .000 DURATION @ .050 EXHAUST 230 INTAKE 1.70
VALVE ADJ EXHAUST .000 LOBE LIFT INTAKE .3560 EXHAUST 1.70
VALVE LIFT INTAKE .605 LOBE LIFT EXHAUST .3580
VALVE LIFT EXHAUST .608 LOBE SEPARATION 113.0
DURATION .006 INTAKE C/L 110.0
TAPPET LIFT INTAKE 278 CAM ADVANCE 3
TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST 282 HYDRAULIC Y
VALVE TIMING .050 OVERHEAD CAM N
VALVE OPEN INTAKE 3 JOURNAL DIAMETER STD 2.165
VALVE OPEN EXHAUST 51 RECOMMENDED VALVE SPRINGS
VALVE CLOSED INTAKE 43 DEPARTMENT P
VALVE CLOSED EXHAUST 1- SPC INSTR FOR CUSTOMER
SERIAL # ONLY ON CAM
And some interesting cam basics: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_9812_secrets_of_camshaft_power/viewall.html (http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_9812_secrets_of_camshaft_power/viewall.html)
-
So I managed to get some work done over the last few days. Dropped out the old 7.5", removed the remainder of the rear suspension and pulled the gas tank. The gas tank was in surprisingly good shape inside and out, it just needed a good cleaning and some paint on the top to deal with some minor surface rust (the bottom is coated in rubberized undercoating).
The hanger is from a 1994 Astro with MFI/TBI. It fits very nicely into the wagon's tank which is sort of baffled, it is really just too deep and narrow to matter in my opinion. As such I didn't make a fuel bucket... but, was considering it.
I slightly modified the hanger to ensure good flow from the Walbro 340 pump and an easy return from the Corvette regulator/filter unit. The hanger was modified by chopping off the feed nipple to insure that it was a full 3/8" ID from the pump outlet to the regulator/filter. The return line was opened up above the max fuel line to allow unrestricted fuel drain back. I have had issues in the past where this becomes a problem in higher performance applications as the low pressure return has to overcome the pressure of a full tank of gas (the original return was/is at the base of the pump). There are also two tabs that have to be cut off the top of the sender to allow it to orient in the right direction.
The sender Ohm'd out at ~92 ohms full, and ~2 ohms empty; which I believe is well within spec.
The lines coming off the sender are the factory fuel lines from a 1991 TPI F-body and are 3/8" and 5/16" ID respectively.. . perfect for this application... and also why I bought the Astro sender shown. The fittings on the end are these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220009b/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220009b/overview/) and will allow me to run -6 AN feed return lines to the filter/regulator (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fuel-Regulator-Kit,41791.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fuel-Regulator-Kit,41791.html)).
Oh and there is an epic amount of wiring harness attached to the sender to make connecting this to the ECM a breeze.
-
purty- gas tank looks really nice
Playing Jenga in the garage?
(http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4210.0;attach=3007;image)
-
And then there is the rear suspension.
I've had a set of these sitting around for years: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-Weight-Jack,3386.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-Weight-Jack,3386.html) and finally got around to putting them out back in something.
The hole for the nut was opened up to 1.75" to allow it to slide up and in, the top of the nut sits flush with the 1/8" thick (4.25" OD) plates/washers that I cut. The idea here is to ensure that the nut remains in compression so as to not pull out of the old spring perch locator. The top plate and washer are there to stabilize the nut and support any transferred load. The washer is also going to provide a clean/flat surface for a second project I am working on to tandem onto this work.
Other than that it is all burned in.
I am going to have new top hats cut for the Vibe springs which are almost 6.5" in OD at the top. The old top hats will be modified to serve as new lower spring perches at the axle since they are larger there too.
And the best part? If I don't like it I can just go back to running regular springs... no harm, no foul.
-
Last pics.
-
purty- gas tank looks really nice
Playing Jenga in the garage?
Feels more like Tetris as the parts keep rolling in... FML.
-
I was thinking about getting a set of these too: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wehrs-Machine-WM4910S-Weight-Jack-Steel-Jam-Nuts-1-Inch-Coarse-Set-4,65240.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wehrs-Machine-WM4910S-Weight-Jack-Steel-Jam-Nuts-1-Inch-Coarse-Set-4,65240.html)
-
Be careful when you start adjusting them. The course thread ones adjust fast so you need to only turn them 1/8 turn to do the adjustments in most cases. The jam nut may be a good idea but we never had an issue with them moving even on the worst tracks, and some of them were really bad.
-
Be careful when you start adjusting them. The course thread ones adjust fast so you need to only turn them 1/8 turn to do the adjustments in most cases. The jam nut may be a good idea but we never had an issue with them moving even on the worst tracks, and some of them were really bad.
Thanks for the advice. See my next post for my rationale on where the jam nuts come into play.
-
Built a little fuel pressure regulator/filter mount with some mounts for isolator clamps.
-
And then it was time to make a harness bar.
The reason for this is most every car built before 1990-something doesn't have provisions for today's modern car seats (ie. tether straps and anchors); and who knows the wagon might even end up being auto-crossed from time to time. ;)
It is integrated into the weight jacks and doubles as a chassis stiffening brace (bolted into the wheel tubs).
-
When is a vacation not a vacation? When you are perpetually working on your project, and it starts to feel more like a job and less like a hobby.
I am actually looking forward to going back to my comfy office chair and sipping coffee for 7 hours a day (the eighth hour is spent at the gym... seriously... I get paid to work out - it is pretty awesome).
There is a desperate need to hit the "reset" button here.
-
when it reaches a appoint of hours worked in a day, on said hobby, that if was a job, the govt wouldn't have allowed you to work that many hours in a day, because it would be close to slavery?
-
when it reaches a appoint of hours worked in a day, on said hobby, that if was a job, the govt wouldn't have allowed you to work that many hours in a day, because it would be close to slavery?
And they'd tax me for the labour too...
Picked up a tonne of parts today, pics to follow soon.
-
Ordered up a couple of large servos for the 4L60E and some rubber fuel tank straps...
Sonnax Super 4th Servo 4l60e 700r4 77767k
Sonnax Super Servo 2nd 4l60e 700r4 77911-03k
-
Fired in some bucket seat mounts (came from Mike's Montes - good quality parts) and POR-15'd the floor.
Rant time:
POR-15 has to be the biggest disappointment I have ever had... one of my cans had the pigment separating from the epoxy(?)/solvent and the paint laid down poorly; and despite following the directions to the letter (bought all the cleaners and prep, and scrubbed it all down with a HD Scotchbrite pad) I still got some fisheyes.
-
What kind of temp was the shop at? That has a lot to do with it as well. I went with a different product that removes rust and leaves clean metal that you can prep and prime rather than "encapsulate" the rust so it can come back later.
-
What kind of temp was the shop at? That has a lot to do with it as well. I went with a different product that removes rust and leaves clean metal that you can prep and prime rather than "encapsulate" the rust so it can come back later.
The radiant floor heating was set for 65*F, but the air temp was 69*F with the windows open (note that it was snowing (91% humidity) and colder than a witch's tit outside) - I was wearing a t-shirt. So I doubt temperature was the issue.
-
Well it is official... the wagon is "rust-free"! Or at least as rust-free as I care to make it; and it only took 6 months to get there. :roll: Finally seam sealed and under-coated the last of my repairs under the car and now its time to prep this thing to get a heart transplant.
Last night (while waiting for some paint to dry) I started pulling all of the previous owners wiring out of the car (gauges and sending units, power seat, electric cut-outs, electric fans, etc) so that I could identify what circuits were in the car, and more importantly what was missing or had been molested. All and all the car is pretty sound for having a 34 year old electrical system, and in it life only a few circuits were screwed with - still working on identifying some of the unknown wires. The true advantage of working on a car of this vintage with very few options is that it is easy to get your head around what is required and where... plus it cuts down on the need to delete or integrate systems (especially when I pull the wiring out of the Camaro for the LS swap).
My next major undertaking will be removing and adapting the steering column (with delay wipers and cruise control stalk) from my 87 Monte Carlo to this ancient beast. I am thinking that I will need to make a bespoke harness to the cruise control and wiper assembly vs. trying to repin the 1980 wiring. Good thing that I have a complete donor car to rape for parts
-
Ran State-side (again) this morning to pick up a pretty large order of parts: more stereo equipment, more sound deadener, more engine crap (fittings, air filter, 4 aluminum intake piping, 3" v-bands, etc), transmission cooler, LS1 front brake conversion parts, and some dress-up parts.
-
Damn, that is a lot of work! Should be really nice once you're done. :rock:
-
Damn, that is a lot of work! Should be really nice once you're done. :rock:
Funny I just went back and looked at it all... and now I am astonished how far its come; and upset knowing what I still have left to do. :rolleyes; :icon_eyes: :O :hmm :chin:
-
It has taken me nearly two days to methodically cover the interior with sound deadener (GT Mat "Onyx" in the front and Eastwood brand in the back; The GT Mat "Onyx" is far superior in both quality and ease of installation IMO). I still have a few details to go over as well as the inside of the doors and the tailgate.
Oh, and here is the new spare tire hatch cover (I still need to laminate two pieces of 1/2" MDF together - that is the top curing its Tremclad top coat)... I have big plans for this thing.
-
Finally got the damn thing back together for the last time... and this was on top of wiring the whole car for sound. A picture is worth a thousand words, see attached.
We still need to upholster the hatch before final installation. And if I am right I have left just enough room for a 10lb bottle of button induced fun (which is also why there is a power and ground distribution block back there); please don't tell my wife. :chin:
I've also cut my templates and started fabbing up the "cubbie hole" MDF mounts for the rear woofers. Making surprisingly good time on this despite that I hate working with wood (*cough*MDF*cough*). I should have pics soon for those who are interested.
-
Yes, calling MDF wood is like calling hamburger - steak. Sadly it has that low resonance deadening property we want for audio, at least dry audio. And you get strong from lifting sheets of it.
-
Yes, calling MDF wood is like calling hamburger - steak. Sadly it has that low resonance deadening property we want for audio, at least dry audio. And you get strong from lifting sheets of it.
MDF does feel like iron-light.
The reason that the hatch is made out of MDF vs. something far lighter is because I am considering adding a shallow-mount sub in the future if I don't get the lows I want from the component 6x9s - RE Audio's XXX-6.9C system (http://reaudio.com/products/components_xxx.php (http://reaudio.com/products/components_xxx.php)).
Also bought a set of Polk Audio DB351 3.5" coaxials for the front... now I have to figure out how to wire in bass blockers (read: really a simple capacitor) post amp; or if I even want to (gotta see if the head unit can limit frequency to the front channel - concept is here: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?54573-Bass-blockers-with-DB-series-drivers&s=ba954eb41dd7c168c31a6da9f5b4de51&p=661369&viewfull=1#post661369 (http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?54573-Bass-blockers-with-DB-series-drivers&s=ba954eb41dd7c168c31a6da9f5b4de51&p=661369&viewfull=1#post661369)
).
-
Okay so my head unit (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X8500BH_OwnersManual100212.pdf (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X8500BH_OwnersManual100212.pdf) - page 17 English) has both a tunable high and low pass filter function (50Hz — 63Hz — 80Hz — 100Hz — 125Hz for both front and rear channels and is tunable +6 to –24Hz); now the front speakers have an effective range of 90-22kHz which doesn't exactly line up with high/low pass filter options as Hz isn't equal to kHz.
My best educated guess is to simply set the high pass filter to 125Hz and call it a day because the included "bass blocker" is rated at 200Hz; and close is good enough in this regard. Plus if I start getting distortion from too much bass I can just solder the "bass blockers" in later.
Sound about right?
-
If the blocker is just a cap then it is single pole filter with a gentle 6db slope.
-
You're just trucking along with this project. Looks good :cheers:
-
When you are on a roll you go with it... Tada! cubbie hole speaker plates.
They are made out of 5/8" MDF and came out rather well all things considered. They are getting prep'd for paint and upholstery as I write this; and obviously the interior panels will need some cutting to fit.
I am thinking that, other than some sound deadener on the inside of the quarter panels, I may try my hand at using some polyfill (aka synthetic pillow stuffing) to tighten up the sound. The passive cross-overs for the component speakers will be mounted on the backside of the cubbie speaker plates.
-
If the blocker is just a cap then it is single pole filter with a gentle 6db slope.
Yup, just a big fat capacitor. So I am going to go with my plan and leave the contingencies on the shelf.
You're just trucking along with this project. Looks good :cheers:
Thanks! I have to keep it moving, I have set a semi-realistic goal of having it running for the first of May.
-
Spent the weekend working on a sick baby, sick wife and incredibly sick self... so there was no progress with the project.
However, today I did order up a pair of Toyo Proxes TQs in their 345/40R17 size for an outstanding price (with free shipping) from TiresDirect.ne t. TireRack was useless as usual.
The Mustangs below are on a 10.5" (the black one may be an 11") wide rim and the Vette is on 11" wide rims out back.
I'll be trying these on an 11" wide rim, and have already fit a 315 under a stock frame G-body so this should be very possible with the notch and mini-tub.
-
It's coming along very well Mike, I need to paint my floors and put new sound deadener in this spring. How much for all the new sound deadener and where do you get it? :rock:
-
It's coming along very well Mike, I need to paint my floors and put new sound deadener in this spring. How much for all the new sound deadener and where do you get it? :rock:
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-thermocoustic-material.html (http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-thermocoustic-material.html)
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_7?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gtmat%20onyx&sprefix=gtmat+o%2Caps%2C300&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Agtmat%20onyx (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_7?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gtmat%20onyx&sprefix=gtmat+o%2Caps%2C300&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Agtmat%20onyx)
-
Are any of those mats fire retardant?
-
Are any of those mats fire retardant?
Based on a quick search - no. The asphalt-based products would probably be the worst when exposed to a direct flame (shit... the Eastwood stuff gets runny over 90*F - read the reviews). The butyl rubber product from GTMat is probably a better performing product... but again likely offers no protection.
-
Slowly making some progress again after being away on business much of last week. The pictures are pretty self explanatory: nitrous and amps. LOL!
For those with wagons you probably have noticed that the spare tire well is significantly more shallow toward the rear of the car... as such I had to make a 1x2x4.5 pedestal for the forward bottle bracket to ensure the proper angle for the siphon tube in the bottle.
And I have started wrapping some of the interior panels due to them becoming extremely chalky from UV exposure. I will say that if you were less inclined to vinyl wrap your parts, you could simply drag a razor blade 90* to the surface of the panel until you reached fresh/clean plastic. I did this to prep the surface for adhesive (3M Hi-Tac 76), before lightly sanding the surface with 100 grit to provide some tooth to the adhesive.
-
Looking nice, find a good source for the vinyl?
-
Looking nice, find a good source for the vinyl?
Fabricland... seriously nice selection. They are starting to recognize me - mostly because I am the only man who willingly comes into the store (and shops).
Oh those boomin' grannies be eyeballing me...
-
The new plates came in today...
-
Cute- I may have to adopt you to get some grandkids
-
Cute- I may have to adopt you to get some grandkids
Natasha makes them cute, I just make them. ;)
-
Tires came in... 345/40R17s.
-
Just about done with this arts and crafts nonsense...
-
That's one rare and cool wagon! :rock:
-
That's one rare and cool wagon! :rock:
Thanks, and I am finally going to get back to building it after a month of life getting in the way. Heh.
-
Well I should have more to report, and actually have been making some steady progress on things like: re-installing the interior (big whoop), pulling the dash to repair cracks and recover, cleaning out the HVAC system (so very dirty - thanks to the State of Kansas), mocking up the Speed Hut gauges, pulling the steering column to install a cruise control/delay wiper column (wiring pending), and modifying the heater/A/C box for the coil pack clearance...
Oh and this new beater/parts car (350 SBC/TH350 combo w/a Flowmaster)... it'll get some wheels and maybe a 4 barrel carb swap. Have to make sure not to turn it into a project car - Natasha will have my head.
Seriously though we need it for the streamlined fascia (my personal preference), inner fenders and fender liners (the ones in the wagon are all cut up and broken), and some other odds and sods.
-
Nice ride.
-
I like it.
-
Thanks! I've been told that it is pretty solid.
-
You are switching "header panels"? got another representative front shot of the wagon?
-
You are switching "header panels"? got another representative front shot of the wagon?
The new front end is on the left...
(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2798/821/31992910003_large.jpg?v=19031981)
-
Here it is on a wagon from the brochure...
(http://hooniverse.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/1981-Pontiac-20.jpg)
-
Must. Not. Paint. It. Black.
(http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/9009895/0610phr_08_z+super_chevy_show+1981_pontiac_lemans_safari_wagon.jpg)
-
Last one...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSsf-pjIypU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSsf-pjIypU)
-
Something more honest and blue collar about the blunt nose.
What would it take to rework a GN headerpanel?.....
-
Something more honest and blue collar about the blunt nose.
What would it take to rework a GN headerpanel?.....
I really like the sleek nose for many reasons including "aerodynamics"... and that in my mind a GTO has four headlights.
As for the GN wagon: fit the fenders and go.
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325 (http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BLXZxYY6_v0/TShST5TEPoI/AAAAAAAAFQ8/6_PthvrMoF4/s1600/gn.jpg)
-
Okay I got the floating couch of death home yesterday and currently have it torn apart for a variety of reasons:
1. I am an idiot;
2. My wife allows me to be an idiot (I think it secretly amuses her);
3. It scared the shit out of me on the drive home when the slightest twitch of the steering wheel at speed would introduce an unintended lane change; and
4. Vibrates horribly over 90km/h.
The current plan includes adding a set of KYB shocks (because the ones it came with are blown), a larger (28mm) front sway bar and new endlinks, an actual rear sway bar, rebushed rear control arms, MCSS steering box, 3.73 posi diff - because proper burnouts, a Performer intake and a 650 double pumper (because the stock intake/carb set up is pretty gutless), 14" open element K&N filter, BeCool rad and electric fans, and either a set of Weld Rod Lites or staggered 17"/18" C5 Corvette Y2K (and really wide adapters) "wagon wheels"; and, tint.
Humourously (unless you ask Natasha) I have most of this sitting on the shelf (or will cannibalize the other cars).
-
Are the bee-cools worth all those dineros? I expected something more creative from your fertile mind?
-
Are the bee-cools worth all those dineros? I expected something more creative from your fertile mind?
The BeCool came in the wagon, although I did order a Griffin to replace it... so it might be?
I am taking the K.I.S.S. approach to this beater for good reason - Natasha will make me bleed.
-
Hey look! An actual wagon update!!!
The updates have been a little slow due to a variety of reasons, some of which have been documented here, but the main reason is the HVAC system redo. I had noticed during the chassis work just how dusty/dirty the inside of the dash was, which meant that the inside of the HVAC system was bad too. A good indicator of this was the socks/rags/paper towel shoved up in the vents which when removed a boat load of crap fell out. Since I have effectively Re & Re'd the entire HVAC system, modified the heater box for set-back engine mounts, scrubbed (and nearly vomited during) every inch of ABS duct work, and started putting it back together with foam-backed HVAC insulation (on the inside of the firewall and the duct work). There is also the issue of the rubber gasket that I had to glue in place with black RTV to get it to stay put, and replacing all of the factory foam with foam rubber. I managed to get the duct work to seal up with just a few pin holes; sure beats the sloppy factory fit and finish (or lack thereof).
And then it was on to retrofitting the electrical system because I want (demand?) cruise control and delay wipers - so my MCSS was cannibalized. The Monte Carlo is giving up its steering column, cruise control module, the fuse block (and underhood wiring - noting that I am doing a four headlight conversion), and some other stuff later on (wiper motor, master cylinder, etc).
So far I am deleting what isn't required inside the car (ECM, ALDL, VSS circuit, etc), and tracing back what either goes under the hood or to the Pontiac gauge cluster so the re-pinning can begin (because the Monte only has one gauge cluster input vs. two in the LeMans); and I still have to modified the donor car's harness - oh joy.
The funny thing is there is what looks like TPS sensor on the wagon's gas pedal mount... does anyone know what it is and what it did?
-
Few moar...
-
That Custom Ceiling Hung Harness looks like a real Bundle of Fun! :icon_eyes:
Your finished project will certainly be well worth the time invested! :cheers:
-
That Custom Ceiling Hung Harness looks like a real Bundle of Fun! :icon_eyes:
Your finished project will certainly be well worth the time invested! :cheers:
It seemed like the best way to get it up off the table.
And I hope you are right about the payoff in the investment...
-
Great work..
That rheostat on the gas pedal assy does look odd...
-
electric choke set?
-
Great work..
That rheostat on the gas pedal assy does look odd...
Thanks!
The most interesting thing is that it is factory, or at least it fits in a provision on the factory bracket. I should measure the progressive resistance (N/O or N/C?) across the wires to see what it could be good for.
What I do know is that it appeared to be connected to the electric cutouts that came with the car; maybe it allowed them to be opened progressively with the throttle position? That would be pretty creative.
-
Looks like a factory switch/setup, spliced into the electric cutout? Very interesting. :)
-
What kind of motor would be on the cutouts that it would allow partial opening?
-
What kind of motor would be on the cutouts that it would allow partial opening?
Stepper?
-
What kind of motor would be on the cutouts that it would allow partial opening?
When I had my electric dump pipe the switch acted just like the Power window switch so it could be open 5%-100%
But it sure was a heck of a lot faster than my tired old window motors. :013:
I've had a brand new set of motors in the shop for 5+ years so one day I'll get them installed.
-
I have spent much of the weekend in the garage with my butane torch, alternative rock, wiring schematics from four different cars, some flux and solder, and a lot of electrical tape - building an interior harness that is as much 1980 LeMans (gauge cluster, HVAC, and under-dash lighting), as it is 1987 Monte Carlo (main harness, under-hood power/lights, and interior accessories), 1991 Camaro (map light rearview mirror and remote power mirrors (because my wife is 5'-5" and I am not)), and 2002 Camaro (the LS1 and BCM swap).
The only things I am still working on integrating are six Speed Hut gauges, the MSD window switch for the nitrous (and the circuits for arming, heater, purge and firing the system), and the remote starter. Too easy.
Pulled the trigger on some more parts.***sigh*** It never ends...
My shifter options for the 4L60E were a cobbled up 1970s Firebird 3 speed shifter or the stock shifter from our donor Camaro... yeah... umm... no. Or something shiny and new!
Oh, and I elected that I didn't want to live with a shitty 2.25" dual exhaust system (even with the complications of running electric cut outs) - so here comes 3" duals with an X-pipe and Violator (seriously) mufflers; the price couldn't be beat.
-
Frankenstein!
-
Frankenstein!
Hey! I don't call you names...
-
Frankenstein!
http://tinyurl.com/frunkenstein
-
I think I might have a problem...
The weather pack connector pack is for under-hood/under-chassis wiring efforts. The rebuilt calipers are to replace the used units that I had planned on using. And the coil-over springs are a new direction from the original plan to use Matrix springs; being perfectly flat on the base will make things assemble more positively, and they are smaller and lighter.
-
If you know the specific weatherpack/metripacks you want mouser.ca will ship free over $200 total
You have to build up the connectors via part numbers from components tho, terminals, seals etc...
-
If you know the specific weatherpack/metripacks you want mouser.ca will ship free over $200 total
You have to build up the connectors via part numbers from components tho, terminals, seals etc...
Do you mean: http://ca.mouser.com/ (http://ca.mouser.com/) ?
Because, if so, holy crap that is one seriously detailed site! I just needed a simple solution to my situation and I have enough GM stuff around that this is a good fit for the toolbox. I actually have bags of Gen 2 weatherpack connectors on the shelf for the Camaro and TBSS clipped from engine harnesses.
-
Yep, they finally matched Digikey for canadian orders $200 and free shipping.
Digikey are $8.00 for smaller orders :) but don't really have those connectors.
Digikey ship overnight.
-
Ran State-side yesterday morning to fetch my Summit orders. Everything seems to be in order except some sketchy build quality in one of the Pypes mufflers, which has incomplete welds inside it (this should qualify for an exchange based on their Limited Lifetime warranty...).
Another slightly disappointing thing with these Violator mufflers is that they aren't built as advertised.
Here they show very few louvers:
(http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4210.0;attach=3404)
Yet when they come out of the box they look like this inside (not my picture... I hate instagram):
(http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4210.0;attach=3406)
For those not in the know "chambered" mufflers like the Violators (http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/faq.html (http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/faq.html)) flow very poorly compared to a perforated muffler like this (ie. Magnaflow):
(http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4210.0;attach=3408)
But, I knew what I was getting myself into - I was just hoping for fewer louvers inside. Regardless this 3" exhaust will still flow as well as a 2.5" system with a perforated muffler; I have large-body Magnaflow perforated mufflers on body my Buick and TBSS and love them. I simply wanted a different/classic sound with the Violators and have run a chambered exhaust (3" single glasspack) in the past on my now long-dead '91 Z28 (305, ported heads/TPI intake, big roller cam, headers...).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSXiNpl-FEg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSXiNpl-FEg)
Other than that the craftsmanship of the Pypes system is fair-to-good overall; but does not include quality clamps or the necessary hangers to install an MCSS exhaust on a car without the rear frame rail hangers - those you will have to source yourself. The good news is that I just still happen to have a pair in my MCSS. I don't know where else you are going to find a 3" stainless steel exhaust system with an X-pipe for $480 shipped?
Add in dual 3" cats and an X-pipe (and all the sound deadener), and this should prove to be very livable.
-
Been up to a lot lately...
Repainting our truck's bumper, laying sod, building a play set for our daughter, and adding A/C to the garage. Plus, some vacation.
-
But wait! There's more...
Got my LEDs from China. And the fun part was figuring which end was up... or negative; so I made a little test fixture. Once I was done there it was time to start filling the gauge clusters.
-
Had a pretty busy weekend doing wiring... yeah, not exciting. But, the payoff should be worth it.
I moved the main harness off the bench and into the car. From there I had a great time running the wires and laying them out in their correct locations. One of the challenges I faced was what to do with all the extra wire I added to the harness; about a 30% increase in wiring from the stock '80 harness. The work around, and one of my side goals was wire management, in this case it was how not to reattach any wires to the dash itself. You can see in the photos the nylon clamps used to tie everything to the firewall, HVAC box or other accessories.
The nitrous is all wired in inside the cabin (switches (the panel shown is temporary) and the window switch), the under hood hook-ups are pending things like an engine. The remote starter is in, just need an engine to take advantage of it (see a theme developing here?); as well, the car is now fitted for remote power mirrors.
The wiring for the gauges is in but not connected to anything (pesky lack of an engine again), as is a junction box for some of the LS1 ECM wiring that needs an interface inside the cabin.
Hopefully I will have the column cleaned up and back in this week, and tear down and clean up the under hood harnesses. After that I'll be repairing and recovering the dash.
-
Looking at buying a Strange S60 for this thing - I was originally going to steal the 8.5" out of my Buick (which is again for sale) and try living with the 3.08s with an OD trans which may or may not work with the cam at low RPMs while cruising (plus it has the LS1 brakes already installed). The other option was to take the 8.5" out of the Monte and fit it with LS1 brakes and 3.73s in place of the 4.56s currently in there - but, that just sounds like a lot of work and money sunk into a used rearend of questionable condition. Or as mentioned: get an all new S60 with 35 spline axles, relocation brackets, new guts, and the brakes already set up ready to go - ready to handle 700+hp. Might even narrow it .5-1.0" per side to improve my wheel selection options...
http://www.strangeengineering.net/high-performance-street/complete-rear-end-assemblies/s60/s60-rear-end-g-body-trac-lock-35-s-t-axles-coil-spring-mounts.html (http://www.strangeengineering.net/high-performance-street/complete-rear-end-assemblies/s60/s60-rear-end-g-body-trac-lock-35-s-t-axles-coil-spring-mounts.html)
Total damage less shipping is $2000 (half of what I paid for the car).
Here is an article I used to weigh my options:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1009_bolt_in_rearend_buyers_guide/viewall.html (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1009_bolt_in_rearend_buyers_guide/viewall.html)
Any thoughts on this?
-
In other news: we have POWA!
I went through and managed to test nearly every system in the car:
Interior
- Gauges (back lighting and main power);
- Dash accessory lighting (turn signals, hi-beam, seat belt etc.; still pending cruise control and SES);
- HVAC (all speeds of blower motor (A/C compressor engagement pending);
- Radio (Amps and speakers (F+R) - hit pretty hard on normal settings and the gains not turned up);
- Accessory lighting (under dash LEDs, lighted rearview mirror, dome light; LED third brake light still pending fabrication);
- Power door mirrors (currently fitted for and not equipped - but they work); and
- Nitrous (main power, purge, MSD window switch, and bottle heater).
Exterior
- Starter (purple wire (remote car starter pending);
- Underhood light (orange wire... need the mercury switch/light assembly);
- Delay wipers (working, pisser pump too);
- Headlights, turn signals and running/parking lamps;
- Brake lights;
- Reverse lights (pending validation);
- Shifter (neutral safety switch - pending requirement if the mechanical lock in the column doesn't work with the remote car starter); and
- Fuel pump (power and signal still pending - might build a hotwire to bump up the Walbro 340).
Here you can see the difference in the holes for the delay wiper motor vs. the two speed unit. I purposely knocked out the outermost upper nut to make room for a larger nut/bolt combo. Reason being that the early cars use smaller bolts, and that just didn't sit right with me - the bottommost bolt remains to ease installation; however, I believe this small bolt/nut could be retained if so desired.
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-iZrrODheM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-iZrrODheM)
-
I keep forgetting you're selling your Buick. Why don't you just take mine and give me yours. Lmao!!!! It's a WH1 so it must be worth something. And that's pretty detailed work. Very smart to label the wires the way that you did. :rock:
-
I keep forgetting you're selling your Buick. Why don't you just take mine and give me yours. Lmao!!!! It's a WH1 so it must be worth something. And that's pretty detailed work. Very smart to label the wires the way that you did. :rock:
Unfortunately Natasha wouldn't be impressed with that trade.
And thanks, but it is easier to label everything now then remember which service manual is for what wiring when something goes wrong.
-
She's a smart lady!!!!!!!!!!! Lol
-
Rather than spend $400+ dollars on another used dash, and since there are no aftermarket dash caps available, I dove head first into a shallow pond and decided to repair ours. If you are familiar with these dashes you'll notice how much expanding foam has been removed from the backside of the dash, and the whole dash has been trimmed back to make room for any repairs and for general clean up (again very dirty/dusty back there).
The gashes and warps were ground down, picked and beveled out, small holes drilled out around the perimeter of the gash to make for fingers to allow the fibreglass/filler (50/50 mix of short strand and plastic body filler) to hold it together, and finally a coat of straight filler. There is also a small piece of MDF added to strengthen a very well shrunken/swollen section of the middle dash.
The speaker holes are filled to be drilled out with a hole saw to fit the new taller coaxial Polk 3.5" speakers; there are some screens on order from China to hide them. This will be done after the top of the dash is done being capped with fibreglass sheet (currently curing) to prevent future splitting.
And then more filler... I hate doing body work.
It will be finished with Duplicolor Truckbed coating and some Duplicolor black vinyl paint.
-
Yeah... so... about all that work you did yesterday? You need to start over.
So I peeled it all off, which is alarming how easy it was to do; but, in retrospect it was a blessing.
Then I drilled a billion 1/16" holes to promote mechanical adhesion so that the cap shouldn't lift, shift, and/or warp. Also, failure of the first attempt can also be attributed to trying to do it with a single sheet of fibreglass sheet, this time it was put together with about a dozen pieces; and I reduced the amount of activator/hardener I used in the epoxy to increase my working time from 15 minutes to about 30 minutes (a big stress reducer).
Let's hope it works out tomorrow upon review.
-
A couple of thin coats of body filler, a lot of sanding, a little hole saw action, and some filler primer. More sanding and primer tomorrow... oh joy.
-
Did you wrap around the perimeter lip w the glass?
(http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4210.0;attach=3612;image)
-
Did you wrap around the perimeter lip w the glass?
Nope. I tried that with the first go around and it looked awful. So I took it right to the edge at the top and trimmed/blended it on the first radius. The truck bed coating should help protect that leading edge from minor impacts and offer some good UV protection under the trim paint.
-
Wet sanded it all last night with 220 grit before heading to bed... had a bitch of a time falling asleep due to the anticipation of spraying it (in my younger years I would work for days straight without sleep to complete a project (think Friday afternoon to Sunday night because I had to drive a car to work on Monday morning)).
I pre-heated the coating in hot water for about half an hour to get the flow rate up (same theory as Plastidip) due to the high solids in the can. The stuff sprayed well but would start to sputter around the 1/4 to 1/2 can mark, which created a few small globs of coating - I poked at them with a dental pick to try and break them up. Hopefully they settle down some more as the solvents flash off. Also, the can say explicitly not to use on a humid day, but doesn't offer a range on the RH%; it is raining here and has been all week humidity is showing 75% outside. The garage is also around 21-22*C and feels very dry inside. We'll just have to wait and see...
-
And the dash is back in... finally. Now to build a shifter mount.
-
Wow - came out nice
-
Wow - came out nice
Thanks, I am content with the results. If anything goes wonky with it I have a spare dash waiting. ;)
-
I'll just leave this here...
-
I like. The red clashes, pull some braid over the cable.
I guess they won't let you put a baby seat there anymore anyways...
-
I like. The red clashes, pull some braid over the cable.
I guess they won't let you put a baby seat there anymore anyways...
I am actually using red as an accent colour in this car being a Pontiac and all; but, I do have black nylon braid if needed.
A car seat was never going to fit up front anyway... maybe with a booster. Not certain about the law with lap belts and being impaled on a shifter?
-
Used to put a car seat in the middle of the ranger's bench.Cozy.
The young'un had to shift over when I went into 4'th.
I was thinkin' more stainless braid?
-
Nice work, looks good! :rock:
-
Well done!!!
-
Thanks gents!
-
Gauge holder for my MTX-L wideband...
-
Looks like I found a good deal on an 8.5" posi out of a Turbo Buick... more to follow.
-
Looks like I found a good deal on an 8.5" posi out of a Turbo Buick... more to follow.
Yup. I did.
-
Finally got the shifter mounted painted (about 2 months ago), all assembled and mounted up, and installed yesterday. Wired up the WB02 too (the loose yellow wire is the lead from the gauge to the HP Tuners interface for datalogging/tuning). I am pretty pleased with the way this project turned out. Our 19 month-old daughter was having a blast slapping the shifter between gears: 1-2-1-2-1-2-1... heh.
-
Dash and gauges look great!!
-
When will the rear end go in? Stock gears? Posi freshen, or going to give it a whirl as is came?
-
Dash and gauges look great!!
Thanks! I am really looking forward to them being run by something other than my imagination.
-
When will the rear end go in? Stock gears? Posi freshen, or going to give it a whirl as is came?
I am not sure yet? If you look closely you can see that it has FUBAR tooth on the ring gear and rust from sitting. I still have to price out a set of 3.73 gears, a full rebuild kit (and possible some new posi clutches), and a set of axles; and if that number (plus the aggravation of doing the work) is greater than or near equal too the cost of buying an S60 I will go that route instead. Black Friday sales on S60s are on now.
-
The quotes on the S60s are coming in... it is very tempting.
I also pulled off the majority of the front suspension today for modification, and to start chopping up the K-member/engine cradle to fit the LS motor.
And... from talking to Natasha we may just end up boosting a stockish LS motor vice building a more "rowdy" LS1. Uh-oh.
-
S60, hadn't thought about that route....
-
How much power do you intend to make? Slicks? Lots of track? Hard street miles?
Gears, posi, rebuild could get you to a grand real fast. If it went that way I'd go to 30 spline and get a new posi and axles to go with the new gears, bearings and seals. But if you are going for more than 600hp I think the s60 is money ahead.
-
How much power do you intend to make? Slicks? Lots of track? Hard street miles?
Gears, posi, rebuild could get you to a grand real fast. If it went that way I'd go to 30 spline and get a new posi and axles to go with the new gears, bearings and seals. But if you are going for more than 600hp I think the s60 is money ahead.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/high-performance-street/complete-rear-end-assemblies/s60/s60-rear-end-g-body-trac-lock-35-s-t-axles-coil-spring-mounts.html (http://www.strangeengineering.net/high-performance-street/complete-rear-end-assemblies/s60/s60-rear-end-g-body-trac-lock-35-s-t-axles-coil-spring-mounts.html)
Yes, All of that. Remember this thing is being fitted for a 450+hp LS1 plus nitrous; and if I do a turbo 5.3L that is 500-600rwhp all day long. The fact that this thing is getting that kind of power justifies not sinking good money into an old questionable differential.
-
I wouldnt call an 8.5 10bolt questionable, but it has its limits. If it were me I wouldnt goof with it at your intended hp level. I also think if you go ls you need 6.0 liters but I'm not bankrolling it either. One of our locals has an orange mustang(nick named orange juice) running one with a n 88 turbo, big front mount and a powerglide running deep in the 5s (eighth mile) while driving it to/from track.
Keep up the good work.
-
Well the S60 was ordered with 3.73s and LS1 housing ends (for LS1 brakes) in a stock width - we got an amazing deal. So the 8.5" and 7.625" are up for sale.
In other news we are LS-ready! 10" x 2" oil pan notch is done with two 1" x 1" x 1/8" square tubes stacked; and the A/C compressor notch is about 1.5" deep into the pocket, you can see how much the PS motor mount is modified compared to the DS unit.
-
Now, turn it into a panel wagon and you will be unique!
-
This is an idea that I have been kicking around for a few years for a couple of reasons:
1. Not everyone wants to pull the body to box the frame (I have the means, just not the interest for this car) or add a rollbar/cage;
2. Improved chassis stiffness between the C-channel sections of the perimeter frame (linking the front and rear sub-frames);
3. Ease of installation (not drilling a single hole in the stock frame) and removal (if the body mounts ever need to be serviced);
4. Improved jacking points (ever seen a collapsed transmission cross member mount because a dumb monkey didn't look where he put the jack?);
5. Enhance the ladder frame design combined with the G-Force trans cross member and the other tweaks/cross bars I have already added to this build.
The tubing is 1 x 2 x 1/8" square, 1" x 1/8" round, and 1/8" plate. The goal is to put a little pre-load into the frame/SFCs when bolted in.
Any who these will probably be the first ever bolt-in sub-frame connectors (SFCs) built for a G-body.
-
Before I boxed my frame I toyed with the idea of putting rectangular tubing inside the C channel. That would make it "class" legal because the frame hadn't been boxed, but I think this may be easier in the long run Mike. :cheers:
-
One down... one to go.
-
In other news... these are done - just waiting for the paint to dry.
-
Jason likes!
-
Managed to earn myself a trip to the ER and ophthalmologis t this weekend while working on this. Nothing like having debris picked, scraped, and ground out of your eye (twice)... but, big brakes are coming - LOL!
-
The S60 has arrived! And luckily I sold off all of my extra rearends to (help) offset the cost of entry...
This thing is an amazing piece of of artwork - shame I am going to paint it. The 175lb/in coil-over springs sit on the perches perfectly, and is going to work great with the adjustable perches from what I can tell. It also comes with multiple shock mounting points as well (I didn't know that when ordering) and is fitted for LS1 brakes.
That is a stock 8.5" axle next to the Strange 35 spline bad-boy.
Sexy!
-
Like them axles standing at attention, I got a boner looking at all that sexiness!
-
Well since everybody was out of the house I snuck outside and started to do a little confirmatory mockup with the S60 rearend and Hellwig swaybar. My first concern was if the supplied u-bolts would fit over the 3" axle tubes - check! Next was how would the bar work with the significantly larger pumpkin - sort of does... As you can see in the pictures it is absolutely fine when level and when drooping - but quickly becomes and issue under compression. The quick fix seems to be to rotate the axle tube mounts to the rear which opens up a lot of room for compression travel. The other option will be to make some spacers/shims to lower the axle tube mounts (Spohn does this for S60 equipped 4th Gen F-bodies). Chances are it will be a combination of both. That and a piece of heater hose on the swaybar for when it does contact... LOL!
-
Actual progress! I am trying to make the wagon a roller again... hopefully before it has been here for two full years!
The spindles have been modified, stress relieved and deburred, rust converted, and polished... justawaitin' on paint. Yes, I know I started on these at the beginning of January.
-
I was a busy boy this weekend. Finally got the control arms, spindles, and differential POR-15'd. The gloss black looks really nice (right now). The front of the rusty brake booster got the same treatment. The front sub-frame got scraped, scrubbed, degreased, and painted with Tremclad gloss because this part of the chassis takes the biggest beating and needs to be touched up easily... I think I even painted over some dirt. LOL.
But, I am getting closer to making it a roller again.
PS. I have a little POR-15 in my hair.
-
Wow looks good
-
Thanks! I am trying to decide between putting a silver pontiac arrowhead crest sticker off ebay, or pinstriping it myself, on the diff cover to finish it off visually. Oh and ignore the untouched upper control arms - I am shopping for some lightly used Global West arms (or some decent roundy-round tubular arms from Speedway or the like).
-
I like the diff cover painted up like that. Engine bay is looking nice too! Did you Por15 the brake booster?
-
I like the diff cover painted up like that. Engine bay is looking nice too! Did you Por15 the brake booster?
Thanks! Yes the front half of the booster is POR-15'd... it was a bit of an afterthought. The iron master cylinder that was on there made a rusty mess of it. I should have taken it out and painted it completely when I had the pedal assembly out last year. Oh well.
-
I forgot to mention that I rolled the pinch weld in the trans tunnel - with a 12lb sledge - to make some more room for the tranny and the tools to install it.
-
Wow-You didn't work the buick over near this much?
-
Wow-You didn't work the buick over near this much?
I was thinking about that the other day - the attention to detail in my previous builds. The MCSS was a 60% build; meaning anything that was done to it, was done about as well as it could be 60% of the time. There was a lot of quality left out of that car. The Buick was a 60% build that turned into a 75% build. A lot of this was due to being very resource limited (money, tools, and skills) when those cars were bought and built. This wagon is probably an 85% or better solution; but, far from a 100% build because it would never be finished and I would miss the aim of the project.
The redo of the Monte will be closer to 100%. Lots of ideas spinning around in my head for that one.
The Camaro and TBSS were/are a lot easier to build because of their newness. I am picking up the Procharger for the TBSS this weekend. ;)
-
Well here is an update: brakes and stuff.
Started fitting the new LS1 brakes to the car, not a complete bolt-on - but very little work was required to get it all on. The biggest issue was opening up the wheel stud (1/2" studs) and centre bore holes in the mock-up rotor. The whole thing came apart about 5 times trying to get the caliper bracket centred. I settled with a .078' outside to .090" inside offset, using a .053" shim (I had a .066" shim as well) between the adapter bracket and spindle mount. The adapter bracket was torqued down to 70ft/lbs using #271 red Loctite. I do imagine the rotor will get drawn in a bit more when the wheel is mounted and torqued down. I have to pull the pads and rotors off of the donor Camaro for the final install. But it is a start.
I also went through a huge ordeal trying to get my hands on quality steel caged wheel bearings (A34 outer, A6 inner); note to self Timken uses plastic cages in their Set/A 34 outers. Booo. At least Timken's seals went in nicely. The dust caps came from Dorman.
You can also see the Hellwig bar, UMI tie rod adjusters, XH steering box, shocks and springs are all in. None of which is torqued to spec yet.
The most annoying thing happened tonight when I was trying to install the master cylinder I stole from my MCSS; I learned that not all dual diaphragm brake booster are alike. No, in fact the early ones (like my wagon) have a 1.5" bore, and the later ones (like my MCSS) have a 1.75" bore. So now I may have to re&re the dash in the wagon to switch out the booster. FML.
Oh I cleaned and painted the brake lines too.
-
MCSS master and booster in. Cleaned up brake lines and a new disc brake prop valve. Added a bracket to do a little fuel line and wiring organization. Out back the tank is all plumbed in with -6 AN lines, including the burp line from the Astro hanger. You'll notice I chose to not reuse the old fuel lines from the '91 Z28, it feels better using new parts. The filter/regulator is hung on another quickie bracket, and all the lines are wrapped in hydraulic hose shielding because I have had some bad experiences with braided lines rubbing through.
-
Few more.
-
Last of 'em...
-
Disgustingly clean build...and that car is gonna be worth more than my house when you're done. :)
-
Thanks, Brad. Originally it was just supposed to be an engine and transmission swap... the girls better get scholarships.
-
Thanks, Brad. Originally it was just supposed to be an engine and transmission swap... the girls better get scholarships.
I got a mischievous smile when reading that. I am able to transfer some of my education benefits to my children. I told the wife, "I got one of em paid for. What are you going to do about the other?"
Looking good my friend
-
Thanks, Brad. Originally it was just supposed to be an engine and transmission swap... the girls better get scholarships.
I got a mischievous smile when reading that. I am able to transfer some of my education benefits to my children. I told the wife, "I got one of em paid for. What are you going to do about the other?"
Looking good my friend
Meh. Mine was paid for with cash and student loans - I have no sympathy; and thanks!
-
And away we go! I was doing fine until the damn power steering pulley decided to not budge.
-
Took yesterday off to take Natasha to dinner and a movie.
But this is where we are now with the tear down; engine and trans are sitting on the engine mounts ready to be plucked. The really good news is that the engine is based on an LS6 block (better bank to bank breathing blah blah blah) - which might explain why the Camaro was abnormally quick - but more importantly it means that the LS6 valley cover I bought will fit like a glove.
-
Last night I had the total displeasure of having someone attempt to manipulate me into supporting their personal agenda. Seems a prospective buyer for the Camaro chassis doesn't believe me capable of reworking the electrical harnesses out of this donor and I should sell him the car whole, and not bother with it all; saving him the difficulty of replacing everything I am looking to pull out. Nah. Fuck it. He is going to take what he is given and like it; or pay handsomely for it. Selfish prick.
-
What are you doing to the camaro Mike? is the engine going in the Lemans?
-
What are you doing to the camaro Mike? is the engine going in the Lemans?
Exactly. Engine, trans, wiring, A/C, cruise control, and the rear brakes. Easy stuff.
-
Is this the camaro you had all along? I loose track of your fleet
-
Is this the camaro you had all along? I loose track of your fleet
If you didn't have 2 hands you'd loose track of your ass Dave. :rofl:
-
Yep, same car. It was Natasha's and will now be reborn into the wagon. Waste not, want not.
-
Is this the camaro you had all along? I loose track of your fleet
If you didn't have 2 hands you'd loose track of your ass Dave. :rofl:
Dunno, seems to follow me everywhere...
:jive:
-
A few process pics. Thank God it was 7*C out today and I didn't freeze my nuts off doing this. Learned that the transmission was rebuilt/replaced in 2005, and that is the original engine to the car.
-
Sweet!
-
Nice!
-
Ordered this bitch today...
(https://dpbfm6h358sh7.cloudfront.net/images/6674054/270036112.jpg)
We all know that I am pretty anti-billet. But, a plastic power steering pump pulley spinning at a zillion RPM just doesn't work for me. Plus, I butchered the stock one getting it off; and it was ugly before I got to it.
-
Why did you take the pulley off? It's a pain but you can remove the pump from the engine with the pulley on.
That pulley looks nice.
-
Why did you take the pulley off? It's a pain but you can remove the pump from the engine with the pulley on.
That pulley looks nice.
It was chipped and old. Plus, I think I wanted an excuse to buy the pulley. Just dropped another $550 at Summit - key purchase: ARP head studs.
-
I have no clue why arp ls1 headstuds are so damn expensive.
Are you planning on boost?
-
I have no clue why arp ls1 headstuds are so damn expensive.
Are you planning on boost?
Well I got them, with 12pt nuts, for $310 and the Summit sales rep had a shit-fit when I found that price on Amazon from ARP-proper. Felt better doing these than the $100 China studs; and the length of the bolts just scream failure point. I used OEM head bolts in the TBSS with the Procharger because it is low boost; I am planning on building a high boost 5.3L for it on the side and will stud it.
As for boosting the wagon. Maybe. ;) But, if this does make it to Drag Week and we have to do a repair I don't want to risk damaging the threads in the block re & reing a head/lifter/whatever.
-
Found this by accident... interesting to see how ASC did the GNX bits: http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/78151-gm-gnx-part-number-bullentin.html (http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/78151-gm-gnx-part-number-bullentin.html)
-
I love wiring. Spent most of the day rechecking my old notes on what circuits are what. The BCM is the worst.
-
I would rather go to the dentist than trace wires
-
I am done tracing wires... for now. I just have to figure out how to get them into the cabin - as the fuse block is under hood and a bunch of connectors need to pass through the firewall and there isn't a spare 3"x2" pass through. Hmm... might just have to cut and splice. Again.
I am going to have to re-loom it after it is all laid out.
I still have to breakdown and clean up the PCM/engine/trans harness. Yippie.
This picture is from a few days ago... it looks better now.
-
Looks like fun....
-
It isn't.
-
My worst nightmare!
-
I use some nice mil spec connectors for work but I know I couldn't afford them on my car. The AMP connector Bob uses on the TR6 might be more reasonable. How little space do you have?
-
I use some nice mil spec connectors for work but I know I couldn't afford them on my car. The AMP connector Bob uses on the TR6 might be more reasonable. How little space do you have?
I am reusing the speedo cable pass through and grommet for wiring on that side; I've already cut the wires that I needed to go through on the driver's side. I might try and source some square Type 2 weather pack connectors. Might.
Then I drilled a 1.5" hole on the passenger floor where the radio antenna would normally pass through and reusing the grommet from a '91 Z28. Which made me wonder how the radio worked if the fender antenna was run. It isn't. Just a snipped wire dangling inside the fender. FML I thought. Then I noticed that it has a windshield antenna - go figure. But, then again I haven't touched this car for months.
Here is how the harness look before it got cut and stuffed under the dash.
-
Could buy a Metri-pack kit to go with my Weather Pack kit... because money.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELPHI-PACKARD-METRIPACK-150-KIT-771-PCS-/330812752820?hash=item4d05fa03b4:m:maoMX6tVSKKRhO iwkqD9WAQ&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELPHI-PACKARD-METRIPACK-150-KIT-771-PCS-/330812752820?hash=item4d05fa03b4:m:maoMX6tVSKKRhOiwkqD9WAQ&vxp=mtr)
I will look to something like this for the Monte Carlo build: http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Cavity-Weatherpack-Bulkhead-Connector-Firewall-Street-Rat-Hot-Rod-Race-Car-/252079344475?hash=item3ab1198b5b:g:wlQAAOSwQJhUfv aC&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Cavity-Weatherpack-Bulkhead-Connector-Firewall-Street-Rat-Hot-Rod-Race-Car-/252079344475?hash=item3ab1198b5b:g:wlQAAOSwQJhUfvaC&vxp=mtr)
I wonder how their prices are: http://www.picocanada.com/en/index.php?p=products (http://www.picocanada.com/en/index.php?p=products)
-
ca.mouser.com have weatherpack/metripack and AMP but you have to know the component part numbers, they are more of a mfg's supplier
-
And if you are serious about building a race car:
http://www.lemo.com/en/application/automotive-connector (http://www.lemo.com/en/application/automotive-connector)
:)
-
Amazon.com has a bunch of Pico stuff
-
And if you are serious about building a race car:
http://www.lemo.com/en/application/automotive-connector (http://www.lemo.com/en/application/automotive-connector)
:)
So serious they even have their CAD drawings available. http://www.tracepartsonline.net/%28S%28bbv44alxjagjrntwjv01r0u0%29%29/content.aspx?fwsid=GLOBALV3&class=LEMO (http://www.tracepartsonline.net/%28S%28bbv44alxjagjrntwjv01r0u0%29%29/content.aspx?fwsid=GLOBALV3&class=LEMO)
O.o
Maybe in another life...
-
Here is where I am at. Ran the harness under the dash, the BCM is in the kick panel and all the spare "future consideration" wires are in the plastic run under the sill plate, the neutral safety switch wires are lined up with the shifter, the ALDL and brake wires are in place. I do need to remove the stock cruise control box as it won't be needed.
I also laid out the fuse blocks and the PCM/ECM wiring; and if you can't tell I need to extend the wires for the cruise control and friends about 30" or so. Then I grabbed the cruise control module and gave it a trial fit. And finally since I was in such a good mood I decided to treat myself to running the throttle cable - I hooked a spring to the engine side and sat in the car making vroom vroom noises and rowing through the notional gears.
And that pile of wires is the aftermath of a month's worth of evenings and weekends.
-
Bonus.
-
Oh... and if you ever wanted to know how wiring in the BCM could be beneficial here is a great little article: http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/BCM.html (http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/BCM.html)
-
Duplicate post.
-
Duplicate post.
-
Duplicate post.
-
I've seen your work before... This will all be in some protective loom and somewhat hidden if not seen at all.
That dude who wrote the BCM article is thorough. Holy Cow! Yep. Still have no desire to do that
-
I've seen your work before... This will all be in some protective loom and somewhat hidden if not seen at all.
That dude who wrote the BCM article is thorough. Holy Cow! Yep. Still have no desire to do that
-
I've seen your work before... This will all be in some protective loom and somewhat hidden if not seen at all.
That dude who wrote the BCM article is thorough. Holy Cow! Yep. Still have no desire to do that
-
Thanks; and evidently the site was acting up for you too. Duplicate post. Duplicate post. Duplicate post. Duplicate post. Haha...
-
I didn't realize it till this morning. Thought it didn't even post at all. I ain't going back to edit
-
I am enjoying my much inflated post count too.
-
Its alive!
Electronically at least. I got the PCM to talk to me, scanned it and wrote to it. I was making sure that VATS was turned off, had to set it to "P/N" for the neutral safety switch on the shifter, and turned off the "shifter lock" function (just in case).
I also finished extending the wires - so very un-engaging. Now I just have to finish routing the wires, wire in the Boost-A-Pump/hot wire to the fuel pump, terminate the SpeedHutgauge leads, connect the cruise control and AC wires, securely mount the underhood fuse blocks and the PCM, and finish looming it up. Ugh.
-
I decided to splurge on something for the wagon: Hooker 1-7/8" LS swap headers... in stainless.
-
Cool, will they fit the cross member?
Do they come with ball flanges?
-
Cool, will they fit the cross member?
Do they come with ball flanges?
Slip fit out of the box, I am probably going to weld on V-bands. And they work really well with a G-Force cross member: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1733542-new-hooker-g-body-ls-swap-system-preview-34.html#post19206155 (http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1733542-new-hooker-g-body-ls-swap-system-preview-34.html#post19206155)
I bought these because I want a direct fit header that should support the OEM trans to column linkages.
-
I decided to splurge on something for the wagon: Hooker 1-7/8" LS swap headers... in stainless.
Those will look really nice in stainless
-
I decided to splurge on something for the wagon: Hooker 1-7/8" LS swap headers... in stainless.
Those will look really nice in stainless
Until they rust. LOL. I think I was feeling guilty about selling the Buick, had the extra cash, and did not want to modify the 4th Gen F-body headers I already have. I will still have to weld in a WBO2 and make the connection for cats and cutouts.
-
Been battling a serious cold so progress was slow this weekend. That being said I did manage to connect all of the main circuits to the spare/unused Maxi fuses at the LS1 fuse-blocks - eliminating the need for fusible links; including the BCM. I also wired up the Boost-A-Pump with a dedicated relay and 10ga wires for the power. Because sending 16 volts down a 0.5mm wire just didn't make much sense; I am still undecided if it will be a 10ga or 8ga wire going back to the tank. Either way it sure beats using just a hotwire. The BAP will be triggered by the nitrous kit when activated - I just have to decide if it is going to be on the hit or when the system is armed.
-
Been battling a serious cold so progress was slow this weekend. That being said I did manage to connect all of the main circuits to the spare/unused Maxi fuses at the LS1 fuse-blocks - eliminating the need for fusible links; including the BCM. I also wired up the Boost-A-Pump with a dedicated relay and 10ga wires for the power. Because sending 16 volts down a 0.5mm wire just didn't make much sense; I am still undecided if it will be a 10ga or 8ga wire going back to the tank. Either way it sure beats using just a hotwire. The BAP will be triggered by the nitrous kit when activated - I just have to decide if it is going to be on the hit or when the system is armed.
I feel your pain. Mother in law was diagnosed with pneumonia on Wednesday. She is drugged up but still going.
Wiring decisions are best made before a short or a hot wire causes a fire
-
Been battling a serious cold so progress was slow this weekend. That being said I did manage to connect all of the main circuits to the spare/unused Maxi fuses at the LS1 fuse-blocks - eliminating the need for fusible links; including the BCM. I also wired up the Boost-A-Pump with a dedicated relay and 10ga wires for the power. Because sending 16 volts down a 0.5mm wire just didn't make much sense; I am still undecided if it will be a 10ga or 8ga wire going back to the tank. Either way it sure beats using just a hotwire. The BAP will be triggered by the nitrous kit when activated - I just have to decide if it is going to be on the hit or when the system is armed.
I feel your pain. Mother in law was diagnosed with pneumonia on Wednesday. She is drugged up but still going.
Wiring decisions are best made before a short or a hot wire causes a fire
She sounds tough.
That is pretty much my thought process on this, the last thing I want to do is have an issue after the fact which could lead to a catastrophic event. So, I am slowing the project down (again) to get it right the first time.
-
10Ga drops about 0.5v more vs 8Ga on a car length, no room at the back for the step-up?
-
And don't spare the poly loom wire wrap
-
10Ga drops about 0.5v more vs 8Ga on a car length, no room at the back for the step-up?
I think I could afford the 0.5V when it goes from 12 to 16.36V when the BAP kicks on; that being said it may be better to carry the benefits of the additional voltage vs. fighting it with amps and a smaller wire for the sake of the wiring and pump itself. Also adding the 8ga could aid in powering multiple pumps down the line. I would like to measure the resistance of each wire before deciding, not all wires are made equal.
As for room at the back. I am certain there is. However, it is my understanding that you want to keep this stuff as close to the power source as possible. Push vs. pull?
And don't spare the poly loom wire wrap
That and anti-chafing electrical tape.
-
You might try some stereo 10 ga since it's got super fine wire in it. It may be the best of both worlds. :hmm
-
You might try some stereo 10 ga since it's got super fine wire in it. It may be the best of both worlds. :hmm
I already have a 0ga wire going to the back for the stereo, and originally was going to tap into that (I think). I may even have left an open spot on the junction block I installed back there - I cannot even recall it has been so long. My memory is fading...
-
executive summary:
Fresh mind this morning says leave the booster where it is, probably need 40% more ampacity on the input side and would need heavier gauges anyways.
late nite ruminations:
Could be argued both ways
Watts in = Watts out X efficiency.
>HMM
>MAYBE THATS Watts in/Efficiency = Watts out
So on the 12v side you are drawing more current so greater losses per foot in the cable so there is some logic in what you stated.
However also to be considered is that unless the boost power supply has remote sensing it is outputting the selected voltage at the output terminal and your pump is experiencing voltage losses along the output side cabling.
If you put the boost supply beside the pump it will deliver the preset voltage to the pump with next to zero cable losses. What it will do is suck as much current as it needs to make that top equation true on the input side, your wire gets warm so the insulation's ratings needs to be considered.
When you are designing a system, its all about the tradeoffs.
In an aircraft weight is everything, they would use teflon or kapton insulated wire and run it way beyond (for example) house wiring current limits per gauge. Cables get warm.
-
In an aircraft weight is everything, they would use teflon or kapton insulated wire and run it way beyond (for example) house wiring current limits per gauge. Cables get warm.
I've seen this a time or two. Do you remember the aircraft fires of the late 90's? There was a recall on a specific manufacturer's wire due to the insulation properties.
-
executive summary:
Fresh mind this morning says leave the booster where it is, probably need 40% more ampacity on the input side and would need heavier gauges anyways.
late nite ruminations:
Could be argued both ways
Watts in = Watts out X efficiency.
>HMM
>MAYBE THATS Watts in/Efficiency = Watts out
So on the 12v side you are drawing more current so greater losses per foot in the cable so there is some logic in what you stated.
However also to be considered is that unless the boost power supply has remote sensing it is outputting the selected voltage at the output terminal and your pump is experiencing voltage losses along the output side cabling.
If you put the boost supply beside the pump it will deliver the preset voltage to the pump with next to zero cable losses. What it will do is suck as much current as it needs to make that top equation true on the input side, your wire gets warm so the insulation's ratings needs to be considered.
When you are designing a system, its all about the tradeoffs.
Interesting.
I actually reworked the power feed wires going in/out the 30A relay for this very reason, they were 14ga and I bumped them up to 10ga. This means that there are 10ga wires from the alternator all the way to the output of the BAP. It is the last 15 feet I am still on the fence about - 10ga of heavy strand or 8ga of heavy strand.
Energy management and heat are the things that concern me most. But, I am gaining a real appreciation for Ohm's Law.
-
In an aircraft weight is everything, they would use teflon or kapton insulated wire and run it way beyond (for example) house wiring current limits per gauge. Cables get warm.
I've seen this a time or two. Do you remember the aircraft fires of the late 90's? There was a recall on a specific manufacturer's wire due to the insulation properties.
Kapton alone IIRC - kapton seems the perfect material at first then it can abrade and get small cracks.
Newest specs are composites. One is TKT, teflon-kapton-teflon, the three layers are together half the thickness of the insulation on your car wires, appearance is of a wire two gauges smaller.
Teflons are still acceptable in the air. They tend to flow a bit so its usually thicker than the TKT etc.
-
Does anyone know if it is normal to have about 10.3 volts at the Lt Blue wire (next to Org, and Wht) coming off the brake switch harness with the key on? My diagrams show that this is for the 3rd/High brake light. I get the full 12 volts across the switch when the pedal is pressed. This 10.3 volt thing is driving me crazy!
Okay so here is the deal with the Lt Blu wire:
Key Off = 0V
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed = 12V
Key On = 10.5V (settles in at around 9.5V)
Key On & Brake pedal depressed = 12V
The diagram attached (straight out of the 1986 Buick service manual) does not indicate a constant voltage of any kind on that Lt Blu wire. So either I have a short, a crossed circuit getting fed from a Key On source, or maybe a bad or disconnected ground? All wild ass guesses here. The funny thing is that I have no real need for that circuit as the main harness is from my Monte Carlo - as wagons do not require/have provisions for the third brake light (aka High Level Stop Light) normally - and could just clip the wire and call it a day. Because what I do need is to be putting 12V to the piggybacked Lt Blu wire when the brake pedal is depressed for the Camaro's cruise control module.
I've attached photos of the brake switches I am using for reference. The top one is OEM to a '02 Camaro and the bottom one is OEM to an '87 MCSS; the wires in the rear portion of the bottom switch are from the '02 Camaro cruise control.
So if anyone can take a moment and check the following voltages for the Lt Blu wire I would really appreciate it.
Key Off =
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed =
Key On =
Key On & Brake pedal depressed =
Oh and here is how the wiring is laying down from the Camaro fuse blocks back - getting there slowly; cruise control is wired up. Even hooked up the SES light feed from the BCM to the dash too.
-
Another diagram showing the switch:
(http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/05/5e/ed/large/0900c15280055eed.gif)
-
So on Dave's advice I tried to light a light with the ~10V present in the circuit. And...
Using a 194 bulb-sized socket, and a 194-sized LED and a standard 194 incandescent bulb I get the following results:
1. Key On & Using the LED = the faintest of illumination;
2. Key On & Using the standard bulb = no illumination;
3. Brake pedal pressed & Using the LED = blinded Mike; and
4. Brake pedal pressed & Using the standard bulb = the sweet warm glow of a generation lost.
Looks like it is a possible ground issue. I am going to try a jumper from the frame to the body to see if that aids the situation.
In other news I can now run a lead for a third brake light - wagons need all the help they can get.
-
How are you mounting the third brake light? Just thinking that the tailgate may not be the best conduit for grounding the circuit to the rest of the body/frame. Perhaps a complete separate ground wire running back to the body/frame
-
How are you mounting the third brake light? Just thinking that the tailgate may not be the best conduit for grounding the circuit to the rest of the body/frame. Perhaps a complete separate ground wire running back to the body/frame
I was actually going to mount an LED strip along the roofline trim behind the hatch glass. Other guys have adapted third brake lights from other wagons (like Volvo) here in an inside mount fashion.
-
How are you mounting the third brake light? Just thinking that the tailgate may not be the best conduit for grounding the circuit to the rest of the body/frame. Perhaps a complete separate ground wire running back to the body/frame
I was actually going to mount an LED strip along the roofline trim behind the hatch glass. Other guys have adapted third brake lights from other wagons (like Volvo) here in an inside mount fashion.
That should look nice. I haven't done anything LED yet. Not familiar with the ins and outs of it
-
Finally got the fuel pump hooked up. I had to create a breakout harness for the fuel level sender signal and low reference wires which go back to C230 for the ECM (which runs back to the sending unit). Totally unnecessary for a swap, but I do want to ensure total functionality wherever possible. I also elected to run an 8 gauge wire from the BAP to the pump to carry the 16+ volts and whatever amperage is drawn. To the credit of Spectra they used some pretty hefty wiring in the harness on the sending unit.
I also had to create a tach lead off of C105 (pin G) so that I could feed my tach, N20 window switch, and the remote starter. This wire does not exist when using a non-traction control harness.
(http://static1.gamespot.com/uploads/original/692/6927882/2995297-stewie+more+you+know+meme.png)
-
As always, super nice work!
I've been contemplating both a power and ground buss somewhere in the interior. Multiple gauges, alky, tach.... too many wires and looks are unsightly
-
Nice Work Mike!! :cheers:
"I've been contemplating both a power and ground buss somewhere in the interior. Multiple gauges, alky, tach.... too many wires and looks are unsightly"
Flip my glove box all the way down & I have board mounted to the back of it with 10 fused + - pins for all the added gauges etc. There is quite a bit of room back there as the Alky Control box as well with Audible Knock unit sit there as well.
-
Thanks gents. I am still not as good at wiring as I would like to be...
-
So the Hookers showed up; and who doesn't love Hookers?
I wired in a micro-relay to ground the "CHOKE" light when the cruise control is activated. There is a diode on the signal wire to the relay to ensure that it is only listening and cannot back feed any interference into the ECM (you know, just in case).
-
Good grief, hookers, and wife that brings a new pussy into the house. You got it made dude. :cheers: :rofl:
-
Can't wait to see that speedo pegged at 160 MPH
-
You can run a wire from the "Windah Terrbow" beside the fuel pump to your power windows.
You don't race and operate the windows at the same time?
-
Manual windows... for now. Yeah, this thing should honk when it is finished.
-
Finished up the engine harness, and finished looming the rest of the wiring (less the stuff along the fire wall. Next I need to pull the inner fenders/fender liners out of the donor car. Once I am done that I should be able to move along to the mechanicals again very soon.
-
Nice progress
-
Nice progress
Thanks! I am scheming to see what the minimum amount of work I would have to do to get this thing to Drag Week. I am even considering dropping in the SBC/200-4R/4.56s from the MCSS... I could make it all run on one wire essentially.
-
Well I pulled the brown turd '81 Lemans parts car into the garage today and got to tearing into it. I got both virgin plastic fender liners out. They looked like they had been Rhino-lined the grime was so thick, it actually chipped off it was that old. I soaked them both in WD-40 (because mineral spirits) and set them out in the sun for an hour; and then went at them with the pressure washer and a scraper. After they had dried it time for more scrapping and more WD-40 - using my old wool Army socks really helped work the last of the goo off.
I will say this: I am glad I bought a complete unmolested parts car.
Because I have no idea what car the fender liners that came in the wagon were out of... but, it sure wasn't a Lemans. Anyway, it looks like wire and accessory management will be much improved with these non-hacked up liners in place - plus the amount of crap tossed up in the fenders will be greatly reduced.
-
Almost done! Just needs a drivetrain (and exhaust, cooling system, pads, rotors, wheels, tires).
-
Looking good! The rest of that stuff that your missing is the minor shit... You got the difficult part out of the way
-
Thanks! And I tried to tuck the wires as best I could for you, Jason.
-
Hung the tailpipes... getting the MCSS hangers off my Monte and onto the wagon was a long and frustrating process. The Pypes exhaust seems to fit the wagon really well around the gas tank and the spare tire well.
Then the UMI Roto-joint control arms went in, followed by the Bilsteins, and finally the S60. I will put the backing plates on the axles soon and load it all up. I will need to set up the e-brake cables and run the solid brake lines to the flex hoses.
I am just grateful for the freed-up floor and shelf space.
-
Wow looks really good like it was meant to be there.
-
Thanks; and for the money I paid for all of that crap it damn sure better look and fit correct.
Wow! It looks like I took that last picture with an overexposed potato... but, then again it was after 2300hrs, I wanted to go to bed, and didn't care to check the quality before posting.
-
Mike...is this the car you're taking to Dragweek?
-
Mike...is this the car you're taking to Dragweek?
Ideally, yes. However, if it isn't running and driving by 30 July we are ordering drag wheels/tires for the TBSS and taking that. Reason being I will need a month to get the car registered, insured, aligned, tuned up, and the kinks worked out.
-
that's quite the collection of jack stands you have there too lol
-
That is only about half of them... I can never seem to have enough jack stands. Currently looking at a new 3 tonne jack as my old ones are wearing out.
-
I've read and heard lots of positives on that pypes exhaust. Sounds like you were equally impressed.
I like the rjc 3 inch single to dual crossover but man does it take up a lot of real estate between the rear diff cover and gas tank
-
I would have preferred if they shipped the kit with slash-cut tips; because now I get to solve that issue.
-
Well, let's just say that I have a "Strange" issue that is likely the nail in the coffin for this car making Drag Week - I'll know for certain on Monday. In the meantime I kept plugging along on other things - like the exhaust.
-
That exhaust is pretty. :055:
-
The pipes are definitely too long for the car on the right.
-
That exhaust is pretty. :055:
Thanks! It should be pretty loud too. ;)
The pipes are definitely too long for the car on the right.
No kidding, but that Lil' Red Corvette has a pretty mean rumble already.
-
Made a little more progress on the wagon's S60 install (nothing ever truly bolts in: http://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1838550-strange-s60-assembly-questions.html (http://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1838550-strange-s60-assembly-questions.html)) but, the wedding rings got pressed on today - which means that I can stab the axles in. In the meantime I have been working on the brackets for the e-brake cables and caliper hard/flex lines. As well, I figured out how to get the front Matrix/Vibe springs to work using the upper strut mounts from a TrailBlazer (just happened to have a spare pair), stock G-body pigtail insulators, and a little bit of heater hose. The picture is the new springs compared to a stock cut spring from my MCSS (28" ride height); both are at 13" free height. Installed and the weight of the wagon on the springs it is right in the middle of the suspension travel. Works for me. As for the weight jacker setup, I will put in coil-over springs as helpers later on.
-
Somebody needs to take this project off of pause.
The rear wheels, the Ronal R15s, are in Windsor with my brother ready to go to WeldCraft in Michigan for widening. Aiming for a final size of 17x11 for mounting the 345/40R17 Toyo TQ drag radials on.
-
Managed to get this idea out of my head and into reality. -6AN bulkheads, and a cantilever bracket using factory holes in the core support to get that pesky B&M transcooler mounted.
-
My brother just picked up my wheels from Weldcraft. These might be (?) the only set of 17x11 R15s in the world. The only reason these could be widened to the outside is because they are a "reverse mount" style wheel and have a non-stepped lip. I kind of want to polish/powdercoat the lips now vs. respraying them all black. Cost is a factor, as is time - I should probably just work toward getting the 345s mounted and the wagon on the ground and running.
-
Those look fat!
-
Those look fat!
Almost 4" of fat lip.
-
As I continue to chronically avoid finishing this project mechanically - I present my latest distraction: bling!
Plasti-dipped the grille and bezels to hide 30 years of weathered chrome and pitted pot-metal a few weeks ago; did the same to the knackered Pontiac emblem and text tonight. Made a quick bracket and added a GTO emblem, and topped off the million different type-fonts with a set of RAM AIR decals. Nothing says Poncho performance like copious amounts of stickers and badges.
-
This might just tip the scales on certification for an official red neck jerry-rigging hot rodder. I like it!
-
Oh it is still pretty shade-tree. But, thanks!
-
That GTO badge looks good I like it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
That GTO badge looks good I like it.
Thanks!
After cleaning up the garage I decided to make it messy again by building a driveshaft loop (out of one of those Summit universal kits) with integrated exhaust hanger locations. Funny the projects you forget about until you start to tidy up... welding 1/4" plate is so much fun with the right welder.
-
Here is a quick comparison between the first driveshaft loop I ever bought, and the one I just built. Much more clearance with the new one near the yoke and in terms of driveshaft droop.
-
Time to start putting the LS1 in this LS1 swap! Over the last week I have swapped a set of BTR dual valve springs (polished springs and tool steel retainers) onto the PRC Stage 1 LS2/6 (CNC'd 799 castings) heads, stabbed in a Straub trunnion kit, and (today) I got into the internals with a cam swap (CamMotion 228/234 .627"/.612" 112+3, should fit with non-milled heads and stock 5.7L MLS headgasket) and started mocking up the N-Motion single roller chain (which won't work with the TFS damper - FML another aborted idea).
I will get back to fitting parts tomorrow.
-
Double post.
-
How do you like the trunnions? I'd like to replace my comps with bushings.
That cam should clear fine. My 231/237 .589/.595 112+4 does
-
My inexperience my show here but damn that's a lot of lift on those valves. Father in law has something similar in his engine build but with solid lifters.
-
My inexperience my show here but damn that's a lot of lift on those valves. Father in law has something similar in his engine build but with solid lifters.
Are you talking about:
a. Total lift/duration causing PTV issues;
b. Valve train weight causing instability/float; and/or
c. Valve train stability issues stemming from ramp rates?
-
My inexperience my show here but damn that's a lot of lift on those valves. Father in law has something similar in his engine build but with solid lifters.
Are you talking about:
a. Total lift/duration causing PTV issues;
b. Valve train weight causing instability/float; and/or
c. Valve train stability issues stemming from ramp rates?
I was looking at the total lift and ramp rate on the 1.7 rockers. Looks like a fair amount of stress on hydraulic lifters not to mention the rest of the valve train. What kind of rpm is this thing capable of?
-
I am running slow leak down rate lifters, the springs are 380# open, and I am planning on running tapered thick wall pushrods (from Manton). The cam also has very smooth lobes which should prevent the jerking motion of getting the valve off the seat. Max revs will be about 6800-7000rpm, peak power should be at 6500rpm.
Also the tool steel retainers and stock sized valves should help with total weight.
-
How do you like the trunnions? I'd like to replace my comps with bushings.
That cam should clear fine. My 231/237 .589/.595 112+4 does
Good to hear I am not insane with my cam choice.
Posted this on LS1Tech the other day:
For my approach to the assembly I took advantage of our current cold snap of about -30*C (-20*F) and left the bushings and trunnion shafts outside for a day. This dropped the OD of the bushings from .813" down to about .810" (+/- .0005), which reduced the interference fit in the rocker bodies from about .003-5" down to about .001-.003". Some almost went together with hand pressure. Although I did used a Summit bench vice installation to ensure accurate installation.
Pretty much the easiest thing I have assembled in recent memory.
-
Been fighting a bit of a cold lately, and felt Sunday was better spent with the girls baking and decorating cookies.
Anyway, this engine continues to fight me in one small way or another...
Started off by degreasing the sludge filled oil pan (165K miles and countless hours idling in a cop car will do that), and the front and rear covers. Then it was time to get the oil pump drive on, I left a heat gun set on high pointed at it for a while and then slid it on (melted my neoprene glove it was that hot). Then on went the oil pump centered with a SacCityCorvett e Align-It tool. I used a combo of the Kent Moore and SacCityCorvett e tools to get the oil pan, and front and rear covers installed - all with new gaskets and seals. Popped on the LS6 valley cover - which went on really easy given this engine is based on an LS6 block. Next the BTR SLR lifters went in with new LS2 lifter trays and bolts, I had to polish one of them up with some 2000 grit sandpaper to get it into the lifter bore - no big deal.
The fun really began when I went to put the heads on and the 11mm (.4331" diameter ) ARP studs wouldn't thread (M11x2.0) into the block without binding/galling - whereby the stock bolts go in without issue. Yes, the threads were chased (6 times per hole) and blown out (with compressed air and solvent). Measured the stock bolts (.423") and the ARP studs (.430") to find a .007" difference. The basic pitch matches in both the bolt and stud, and each measures out at 2.0 with a gauge. ARP's tech line basically said they aspire to a "higher class of bolt" (let's say a Class 3) which may be causing the problem where a regular production class threaded hole (let's say a Class 2), thus the variance in tolerance from one to the next is the root issue of the interference fit. Another possibility is the block is sitting around 10-13*C (~50-55*F) causing the tolerances to close up - but that is a bit of a stretch (bolt pun fully intended).
Thread class article:
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Screw%20Threads%20Design.pdf (https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Screw%20Threads%20Design.pdf)
Rather than mope - I just cleaned the orange sealant/thread-locker goop off the threads of a set of new GM bolts, coated them with ARP Ultralube, and torqued them down. A pretty easy process by comparison - except that I am out $200+ on the ARP studs. Using this process these bolts were good enough to hold the heads down on my Procharged LS2, and they will hold this thing together.
At this rate it is going to take a week to build this thing...
-
Updates are overdue... this thing called Christmas got in the way. Go figure.
First up... I decided to port the LS6 intake. I couldn't think of a better way to devalue a nice speed part. Long story short the ports are now closer to 1.10" wide (up from .980" stock) to better compliment the PRC heads (1.20" wide), the throat is now a solid 75mm behind the throttle body, and blended corners and deburred what I could. After that was done I decided to re-port (is that a thing?) the throttle body as it wasn't done very when I first did it 10 years ago. So out came the carbides and 80 grit drum rolls... finished it off with some 220 wet/dry sand paper.
-
Next up: Making things fit or finding homes for the Speed Hut gauge sensors.
I almost turned a stock coolant temp sensor into an adapter. But, snapped it when I took the tap too deep. FML. The next one was steel and already tapped for 1/8" NPT, I just had to grind down the OD and run a M12x1.5 die over it. It sucked, but worked out okay. The washer? Just a bango bolt copper washer from a brake line.
Then it was just a matter of drilling and tapping for the oil pressure gauge. Pretty cut and dry until the headers went on... FML. Time to find another solution/relocation method.
-
Jammed in a couple of new knock sensors, and added a rear steam pipe (which will get tied into the one at the front) for cheap four corner venting. I did the same thing on our TBSS.
Then the intake was washed out in the kitchen sink (because my wife was out and I needed the deep sink and goose-neck faucet. LOL.) and set in place with some FAST intake port gaskets. Popped in some 40something lb/hr injectors (Racetronix sells them as 37s @ 3 bar) which should provide more than enough fuel for this thing.
Jammed in some TR6s gapped at .040" - because there is a nitrous tank in the back which I haven't forgotten about. For giggles I tried indexing them.
Installed the Carshop Inc adapter plates and Moroso solid mounts. Had a small interference issue on the DS near the pan rail. Nothing a little grinding couldn't fix.
Popped on the Hookers, tweaked the stock dipstick tube a hair, and everything went together very smooth. The fit and finish is really worth the extra money.
Last thing I managed to install today was the Hughes SFI flexplate with some ARP bolts (amazingly they fit!) - need something to hold up to those nitrous hits.
-
Bonus: Wheels!
For Christmas my brother had the modified wheels stripped. Saves me a lot of work! FWIW, there is a 1.25" or 1.5" adapter behind the wheel - should fit great without those in there.
-
So when you say, "tweaked the dipstick tube" , do you just insert a Phillips screw driver and bend it where you want it?
-
So when you say, "tweaked the dipstick tube" , do you just insert a Phillips screw driver and bend it where you want it?
I used my knee and a vice. But, yes.
-
It's coming along!
-
Mike - fwiw if anything, I prefer 6's for N/A and 7s for N2o.
-
Mike - fwiw if anything, I prefer 6's for N/A and 7s for N2o.
Are we talking a 100 shot or a 200-300 shot? I am hoping I don't need more than a 100 shot to get this car where I want it to be (10.999 @ whogivesashit), that and I don't feel like investing a lot of money into more than the single wet fogger I have now.
I will boost this thing before I start bottle feeding it like a madman.
-
100-150shot the 6s are good for stock compression, just showed more heat than I liked at 100 shot. I like to keep as much heat out of the chamber as possible with the stock pistons.
-
Really, huh?! Good to learn from a guy who knows. Would you use 7s with projected or non-projected tips?
And this is a stock compression build, which will be run on 94 octane.
-
Non projected - ngk bre7f
-
Cool, thanks. I have a set on the shelf.
-
If you couldn't tell in the pics the garage was turning into a pig-sty. So I spent the afternoon cleaning up... after I installed the freshly painted balancer and pinned the crank. I really appreciated the pneumatic drill I picked up before Christmas which helped make short work of the job. Added a drop of red Loctite to the pin, and set it flush with the hub (because if this ever needs to come apart I want some material to work with/weld to).
Because you never know when you might want to supercharge something.
Then I ran in the ARP balancer bolt and torqued it down. Tried torquing downward to get the 235ft/lb spec, but that lifted me off the ground. Went the other way and did a healthy deadlift to get it done.
-
...and this is why we mock things up before attempting to install them in the car. The AC compressor bracket interfered with the PS mount and adapter plate. So a little chopping, drilling, grinding, and swearing and we have some much needed room. I opened the mount up to accept a 3/4" bolt which should work out just fine. I may or may not add another bolt to the mount/adapter, as this is the compression side of the engine it is unlikely that it will be necessary.
Also got the rest of the accessories test fitted, the steam line run (requires paint and clamps), 160* thermostat in, Turnone pulley on, and the nitrous install started.
-
And that is pretty much it - the engine is built; except that I have to measure for and order some pushrods. The last thing I had to finish up was the nitrous kit. The goal here was to install all of the components on the intake itself (short of a few relays); just in case I need to remove it from the engine (to say install it into the car).
Unfortunately the old dishwasher I salvaged the micro-switch from didn't have a lever arm installed... so I made one and integrated it into the bracket. The WOT micro-switch is connected to a fuel pressure safety switch, which is connected to an RPM window switch - because safety first.
I would really like to set the purge up to bleed out of the unused antenna hole in the fender.
-
Tore into the trans (out of 2002 Tahoe - go figure) and started to install some parts from Sonnax:
Performance Pack (HP-4l60E-01)
2nd and 4th Gear Super Servos (779911-03K and 77767)
2-3 Shift Valve (77754-41)
The instructions are pretty straight forward, but still leave a little bit to be desire from a clarity stand point if you have never done this before. The most I have ever done with a transmission to this point was install them, swap a converter, and change out a servo. So this was new territory for me. To help anyone along here are a bunch of photos to augment the instructions.
I disabled the PWM function of the TCC, so now it should work just like an ON/OFF switch (like an old school TCC trans).
Plus, there is a Coan 3200 stall, single disc, converter waiting to go on.
-
More.
-
Last of them.
-
Be sure and measure the clearance on the 2-4 servo when you put it in. When I did ours on the 2004r we put it together without the seals n springs to get a .060 feeler between the cover and the retaining ring. Not sure what clearance yours calls for. We pulled it a couple times to grind down the pin to get where we wanted. If it was too short you could build it with the wire feed welder. Too much and it slips, too little and you burn a band and possibly a drum. Also make sure then band pin in the case is a snug fit. A rocking pin is a recipe for a broken pin or case.
Loving the pix. Keep em coming.
-
Upon looking back through you are way more technical than me with the mag post and dial indicator. Nice work
-
LOL, yeah - I am like that (now). Specs called for .075-.125"; it is set at .073" and seems to have passed the "drag test". When I did the Super Servo on of my 200-4Rs I just slammed it in there... then it popped out on the road test. So I slammed it right back in again.
-
Spent most of the day shoveling heavy wet snow.
But, I did manage to get the tranny pan stripped and painted. Somewhere down the line a goon threw black paint on the pan and it was flaking off at the slightest touch. I scuffed it up, grabbed some primer and some gunmetal wheel paint; but, man is it still ugly.
And I finally put on my man-pants and cut the exhaust tips. A long sawzall blade and slight touch-up with a hand-file later, and I could breathe a sigh of relief. Done. Once the engine and trans goes in I can start laying out the whole system - for some reason I love building/fitting exhaust systems.
You know you have a good wife when she runs to the transmission parts to store to pick up your order. But, then mentions how "two gaskets" and a "little thing" don't look like they are "worth $70". She's a keeper.
-
Not a lot was accomplished but, a BIG box in the project was ticked:
The trans was buttoned up today with the Sonnax 2-3 Shift valve being the last piece. I used the Sonnax "plastic" balls in all of the case and VB locations. I saturated the filter element with some fluid to avoid a dry start up (do the same thing with an oil change). Hopefully this thing works well for a while. Just have to top it off with some Amsoil ATL.
For reference the details on the internal tweaking of the 4L60E is documented here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1856669-4l60e-shift-kit-advice-needed.html (http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/1856669-4l60e-shift-kit-advice-needed.html)
-
Speaking of jobs that require manning up, and a lot of manpower: Today I rolled the rear inner fender lips. Which is much preferred method to chopping them out to avoid cutting side walls. It also preserves the stock spot welds, and strength and integrity of the sheet metal.
It will tuck (squeeze) the 345s now.
I also mocked up the 17x11s to suit. Added a 1/8" spacer behind them to see how far out I can safely bring the wheels and still have full engagement on the studs/lugs. There is 1.5" minimum clear around the rim on the inside - and by my calculations for mounted section width I only need 1.25" to the inside and outside.
Next up: paint the hoops and mount the buns.
-
It's moving along. You'll be enjoying it this summer if not earlier. How did you roll the lip? Do you have the tool or some other method?
-
Mike,
It looks like you are moving right along. Some very impressive work done already, I hope to see it in person some day!!!
-
It's moving along. You'll be enjoying it this summer if not earlier. How did you roll the lip? Do you have the tool or some other method?
Eastwood fender roller. I actually broke it finishing the PS because the car had a quarter skin hung on it at some point in its life... which made it much more rigid than the DS that flexed like crazy by comparison. When I fit the 315s (stock frame) on my Buick I actually flared the wheel arches out because the spot welds were cut. When I if the ZO6 325s on Natasha Camaro I reformed the arches completely and created flares, it was a thing of beauty.
-
Mike,
It looks like you are moving right along. Some very impressive work done already, I hope to see it in person some day!!!
Thanks, Paul! There is a good chance you will see it at some point, we plan on driving it a lot.
I should be dropping the wheels off for paint tomorrow - decided not to make a mess out of the garage (again) for such a little project. When I painted the wheels for the TBSS it was awful... but, the bumper cover wasn't that bad. Go figure.
-
Dropped the wheels off for refinishing today, should have them back in early-Feb.
-
This weekend was about doing a bunch of little things as time allowed. Ran the nitrous main line from the back to front, and for some reason I felt compelled to build the adapters for the inner coils for the weight-jacker setup. I will post pics after they are painted, currently they are sitting in some Evaporust getting cleaned up.
-
Still chipping away at things little by little. Got back to fitting the Pypes exhaust, and I am using that term loosely. While definitely not the worst kit on the market, it darn sure isn't the best. The general fitment is being a bit of a chore finding acceptable clearances around critical parts (things that move, things that aid stopping, and things that go boom if they get too hot) and the lack of predetermined hangers provides little guidance for the installation process. Then there is the issue of fitting the mid-pipes and the x-pipe which is a complete and total debacle, especially as it relates to the pipes running under the floorboards; I am going to have to get some adjustability into the hangers (which I also have to build, another nice bonus) to lower them as necessary. About the only positives are the front pipes are centred under the G-force cross member, and the QTP cutouts fit snugly into the pockets under the rear seats.
After picking metal slivers out of my raw back (I really need to get a hoist), I decided that I should remain upright and measured for the pushrods. Picked up an 8" caliper and a Comp Cams adjustable pushrod - a few hours later (lots of triple checking) the numbers are in. Time to order some sticks.
-
Get you some wood and make some risers to go under the wheels. Then you can teach the little ones how cool a creaper is under a car. Mine loved the creaper and the seat on wheels. They wanted to goof with the floor jack but I thought one might loose a finger when the thing came down.
-
Get you some wood and make some risers to go under the wheels. Then you can teach the little ones how cool a creaper is under a car. Mine loved the creaper and the seat on wheels. They wanted to goof with the floor jack but I thought one might loose a finger when the thing came down.
This thing will be on wheel cribs as soon as the wheels come back. Tatiana isn't quite 4 years old yet, but she keeps telling me about all the cars she is going to build for me; and that is a good feeling. We are going to start by restoring some old Hot Wheels together.
-
Nice, do it now. Mine are 23, 18 and 13 and the eldest is the only one with interest. And that is for her car maintenance. The middle one is away at college and the young one is in Jr high and going to Hs this fall. No way she is goofing with dad in the driveway.
-
The cat back portion of the exhaust is fitted and hung. I swear I will never buy another Pypes exhaust - the lack of hangers has left a lot to be desired thus far. Next time - Hooker all the way. At any rate it is in and solid now thanks to some backyard engineering and sheer ignorance.
-
Looking good! Liking the exhaust hangers. You have a heat shield in mind? Looks a bit close on that third pic
-
Thanks, and if you are referring to the fuel filter/line I'll have to double check.
-
I have the flu, and that gave me the time to finish this.
I figured since the car is just a "what if" I figured it should have a back story.
The dealership I used as a start was a high-performance Pontiac group from West Vancouver, BC that made its own line of specialty models (think, a Canadian Yenko) called Royal (Conroy) Pontiac (http://www.ic.gc.ca/app/opic-cipo/trdmrks/srch/vwTrdmrk.do;jsessionid=0001veSGF2mJFaC5ByJYu7CwDML:HJ1UVGRBO?lang=eng&status=OK&fileNumber=0287547&extension=0 (http://www.ic.gc.ca/app/opic-cipo/trdmrks/srch/vwTrdmrk.do;jsessionid=0001veSGF2mJFaC5ByJYu7CwDML:HJ1UVGRBO?lang=eng&status=OK&fileNumber=0287547&extension=0)) which shut down in 1981. The time line fits the age of the car. Royal used Beaumonts (aka Chevelles) and dubbed them Cheetahs. So why not a Judge, right? The interesting thing about most Canadian Ponchos is that they used Chevy power.
I dug through lots of resources looking for regular and GTO/Judge RPOs to create a believable (passable?) window sticker. In truth, it is a giant rectal pluck (albeit an accurate one), but if I age the paper and laminate it should make for a nice conversation piece at the local car show.
-
That's awesome! All that for less than $13k! WOW!
-
That's awesome! All that for less than $13k! WOW!
Thanks.
Well it was 1980, a GN in '87 was $15k, so it seemed reasonable given a base Lemans wagon was around $6,350. Almost all of the options prices came from one resource or another, except the GTO/Judge thing those are mostly made up.
-
... a GN in '87 was $15k, ....
The hell it was
-
Base Regal $14,290
Grand Nat pkg $ 5,212
6 way seat $302
G80 $130
T Top $1172
Pwr Lock $197
Windows $283
Concert sound $133
just to list a few
-
A stripper GN might have been had for 15 USD Mine was 22210 cad in nov 87.
1 in Beaver Falls OHIO THEN at 17 and change US
-
Hey... hey... calm down. I just went off of this: http://www.gnttype.org/numbers/rpo.html (http://www.gnttype.org/numbers/rpo.html)
$11,562 (base regal) + $3,574 (WE2) = $15,136
I wasn't trying to offend anybody.
-
Don't think you offended any one, at least not me. This is the internet after all.
-
Dave, used the word "hell" and I got my purse strap in a knot... because we all know how hypersensitive I am.
I still like you guys better than the GTO restoration asshats at http://www.gtoforum.com/forum-index.php (http://www.gtoforum.com/forum-index.php) who clearly take themselves waaaaay too seriously. ;)
-
Those are real Canadian prices for a late '87 build, you can use those prices.
Late builds were loaded and came out to $23,500-$24,500
Z28's, BMW, Mercedes were cheaper,- these were not cheap cars to buy in Canada.
-
I figured being $10K off deserved "hell" :)
-
I figured being $10K off deserved "hell" :)
Dave,
You are just mean!!!!! :)
-
Purgatory?
:icon_eyes:
~ $52K in 2016 dollars BTW
-
What no slide out mattress option! No GTP option? lol
-
Mine cost 17,464
I hope no one ever takes me seriously, I kid alot.
I save my venom for people that tread on me.
If you knew me and my personality you'd understand.
-
exchange rate in Dec 1987 was .754 (sound familiar?) so thats $23,161 Canadian. Plausible.
-
Dave I think your price range is a little high or the equipment is inflated. my oct87 build hardtop,ps,pb.pw.air. tungston headlights. concert sound with no eq.
power trunk was stickered 22,210 in Ham ON
ALSO Did you notice that as a Can the net price you paid was the same if you crossed the border or not in 87 but you can save large now in 2017 if you go Stateside,
-
I know a guy who just moved to Port Perry with goat. Those guys also use Lonnie for transmissions and I was keeping him abreast of the locations of the Nomadic Lonnie. :)
-
The good news is this is a fictitious exercise and I can rewrite the sum total (or contents) to whatever I want. In retrospect, those options figures presented would all have been USD as no reference I have seen yet carries the CDN equivalent. So if anyone knows the US/CAN exchange rate for 1980 and wants to apply it, please do so - heck calculate for inflation in 1987 and 2017 (shit look at that, now all of your Buicks are at least 30 years old).
Also, this is the most traffic this thread has ever seen... probably because the topic turned to Turbo Regals. LOL!
-
Exchange rate in 1980 was .856
Since you know what you are doing mechanically we can only argue about the stupid stuff :)
-
I don't post in this thread but I watch it.
-
Since you know what you are doing mechanically we can only argue about the stupid stuff :)
Well I am glad you guys are enjoying the Winter BS session. But, let's not kid ourselves, I am learning as I go here - we'll celebrate my "abilities" when it runs, drives, and stops. :)
I don't post in this thread but I watch it.
I appreciate it.
-
Almost a month between updates? What gives?! Life mostly.
Most of the last few weeks where spare time was made available to me have been spent tweaking and tinkering with many of the parts I had previously installed (like the rear suspension, exhaust, wiring up the cutouts, and other less than exciting things). Fortunately there is still lots more of that to go - so I will never get bored.
I've been putting off installing the engine for about a month believing that my brother would be dropping by for a visit. Nope - he was sent to China by the US auto industry to sort out the Chinese (he is THAT guy). Spring is coming and I wanted this off my plate... so I threw the car up on the wheel cribs. Grabbed Natasha to help ditch the hood. Reorganized the garage so I could approach the car over the DS fender. Bolted the engine and trans together (had exactly .125" set back for the converter to flex plate, this Coan and Hughes assembly fit way better than the Yank and CAT units I used in the TBSS which I had to shim the crap out of to get into spec). Dropped the nose of the car toward the floor and got to stabbing the drive train and headers in. Found out that the 1" set back engine mounts made the G-Force cross member fit like total poop - going to chop it up to suit (set it back an inch and drop it down a 1/8" or so). Somewhere around 2 AM it was all in, went inside to eat some yogurt, and watch some AvE on the YouTubes.
Oh, and the Hooker headers fit great with the Moroso mounts and Car Shop set back plates!
-
Looks nice setting in there!
-
Thanks! It is a huge relief to see it in there. Only challenge I am facing right now is how high the nose of the car is sitting at about 27" to the bottom of the fenderlip - I blame the lightweight parts. Granted I still have a significant number of parts to install yet (FEAD, A/C, rad and fans, battery, rest of the exhaust, crossmember, hood, fluids, etc) and I imagine the 28" tall tires will shift the bias forward a bit too.
My goal is to have it down to 26".
-
I gather it will settle a little when all the other stuff is installed and you get driving it a bit
-
I forced myself to modify the crossmember in the evenings this week. Reason being that when the engine and trans assembly went in last week the back of the trans pan butted up against the crossmember because of the 1" setback, and the Energy Suspension mount would not sit on it. Fair enough.
I cut and moved the flanges 1" to account for the need, and added some gussets; also moved them 1/4" up, which effectively dropped the crossmember removing the interference with the floor pan (because using a jack to reshape the floor as per the installation instructions is just a shitty concept). Further to this I sectioned the transmount surface down about 1/4". All of this allowed the crossmember to be fit easier into the chassis, the nearly 2" tall transmount to be used, and got the floorboard clear allowing me to reinstall the PS heat shielding (and avoid cooking Natasha's feet with header and cat heat).
Right now the driveline angle is sitting at 4* down - which is workable.
-
Mounted section width 13.5", and fit fine. Added 1.5" to the rad hold down support because the Griffin rad is huge. Started making room for the A/C compressor... I didn't notch it enough the first time. And we aren't going anywhere for awhile.
-
Last of 'em.
-
Them wheels and tires look sick!
-
Them wheels and tires look sick!
Thanks! It is turning out like I had envisioned.
-
I finished renotching the frame and the compressor fits like a glove now. One of my main objectives has been to maintain accessibility to OEM parts in this build what with so many pieces coming from a donor 4th Gen F-body - because who wants to try and service a car with one-off parts while out on a road trip? Not me. I want to be able to call up any jobber and get bits and pieces with relative ease and little delay.
With this in mind we are using a hybrid system of F-body and G-body AC parts. The main lines coming off the compressor are factory F-body - these will likely be the main failure point down the road - and are easy to find. I spliced in the hard lines from a Grand National from the Receiver/Dryer and the Condenser using the F-body connectors. This allowed me to integrate the 4th Gen Pressure Valve. Interestingly the Evaporator already had the "blue" Ford hi-flow orifice tube in it - so I kept it as it only had 5000 miles on it and was clean. Also, I decided to use the OEM style condenser vs. the Spectra replacement since it is rumored to exchange heat better due its size, volume, and fin density.
Mocked up the heater lines, I want to put a mechanical bypass valve in place later on - probably just use a ball valve and brass tees.
I also built some double flare to -6 AN adapter fittings to connect the F-body trans cooler lines to the aftermarket bits. Nothing to crazy, just some drilling and tapping.
And one header is hung using Stage 8 locking header bolts, I imagine this thing will try and rattle them free.
-
Got some more stuff painted, bolted on, and fabricated this weekend. Wire, cable, hose and tube management is a huge time consumer - the only reward is not having stuff wear through at a later date; call it reliability. Had a huge issue fitting the DS cat on the header thanks to the G-Force crossmember being in the way (again), granted this is a byproduct of the motor mount adapter plates moving the engine up and the Hooker headers being designed for a set of motor mounts (Hooker's own) that would set the engine lower, and that I modified the aforementioned G-Force crossmember - just another victim of stacking tolerances. This forced me to build an S-pipe to reorient the cat down to and to the inside (about 1/2" - 3/4"); however, the side benefit is that I found a home for the WBO2 sensor.
I still have to find the parts (and means) to connect the ignition lockout switch from the column.
-
looking good....
-
Elephant penis intake complete.
-
Nothing major to report.
However, I did get the throttle cable connected last night which allowed me to sit behind the steering wheel making vroom-vroom noises while playing with the throttle and shifting gears (as if I am the only one who does this). Also, I got the best-worst noise ever when I turned the key on - the fuel pump primed!
All things being equal I might be able to get it to start and run this weekend - but, still need a driveshaft in order to move it.
Back to checking for leaks.
-
You're not alone... Good luck on the start up and shoot some vid when you do crank it
-
Damn, this thread has been read over 20k times.
-
Damn, this thread has been read over 20k times.
That is mostly me fixing my spelling and grammar.
And there will be videos... we just ordered a GoPro-style camera.
-
You should live stream a garage channel for us to live your evening adventures vicariously :)
-
You should live stream a garage channel for us to live your evening adventures vicariously :)
You would have loved tonight's episode... it was mostly me crawling around on my hands and knees with the dust pan and wisk cleaning up the last two weeks worth of project fallout. Scintillating.
-
You should live stream a garage channel for us to live your evening adventures vicariously :)
You would have loved tonight's episode... it was mostly me crawling around on my hands and knees with the dust pan and wisk cleaning up the last two weeks worth of project fallout. Scintillating.
LOL! I know how that feels... especially after the father in law has been out in the barn. He is one messy dude with no care in the world as to what he messes up or leaves behind.
-
Find I don't have the omph after a project to tidy right away. Result?
Took me a couple of weekends of cleanup to find my tablesaw.
Believe Paul Beal took a photo to show to his wife to prove that HE was indeed quite tidy...
-
Yeah, Paul Beal's garage is pretty well kept.
-
Just got a little more of the little things done. Installed a very large power steering fluid cooler because these F-body pumps love to boil fluid. Got the four corner steamlines done for $20 in parts. And repurposed a truck tank vapour line - nothing like straightening 36+ of hard line just to immediately re-bend it.
It is all the little little things that take so much time. I plan on skipping over a lot of this crap when I redo my MCSS (will be so much simpler) - but for this build we need it on the up and up.
-
Two steps forward, three steps back.
Had to fix a few silly ass issues today, so the car hasn't been started yet. The $300 pushrods are in, oil and trans fluid added, and the start up tune is written (hopefully watching Monty Python doesn't interfere with my crapsmanship).
Maybe tomorrow.
-
Didn't get to start it... but did find a lovely fuel leak.
Always fun explaining to your 4 year old why you are panicking, while you are panicking, not to walk off with the pile of wrenches you just made, and to stay away from the fuel puddle forming under the differential. Good times. But, this is why we bench test stuff rather than just cranking it over and watching it burn.
Also I managed to leave the key on last night and drained the battery - so it is sitting on the charger.
In the meantime I explained to my garage monkey how a worm gear clamp works, had her help mount the coil packs, and also had her help me remember how to overfill a power steering reservoir (making another puddle and moment of panicked damage control). Then she just went to town sticking the extendable pen magnet onto every surface she could find.
Finished up with some other Mickey Mouse stuff as we are getting closer to launch.
-
The wonders of a magnet. Every kid needs some and as they get older they can have more powerful ones. Cant do big power ones early as it can crush little fingers.
Cat litter, I tend to use a lot to soak up messes. I laugh every time and thing of my dad and how he would get all worked up that I was staining the concrete.
-
The wonders of a magnet. Every kid needs some and as they get older they can have more powerful ones. Cant do big power ones early as it can crush little fingers.
Cat litter, I tend to use a lot to soak up messes. I laugh every time and thing of my dad and how he would get all worked up that I was staining the concrete.
When she found that chains were magnetic Tatiana started "making music" - kind of like demonic wind chimes.
-
$300 pushrods? WTF Mike?
-
$300 pushrods? WTF Mike?
Trend 11/32" - yeah, I know. But, they are works of art.
-
All the little things make the hobby pleasurable. Especially getting to share it with the little ones.
-
First start up with just enough tweaking to get it to idle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfPDKcfaR7I (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfPDKcfaR7I)
-
It sure does sound salty! Nice to have some payoff from all the labor! Congrats!
-
It sure does sound salty! Nice to have some payoff from all the labor! Congrats!
Thanks! It is a special feeling.
I am off for the Easter weekend, but the heater bypass valve and a set of 3" 1/2-20 Strange wheel studs arrived from Summit. Baby steps.
-
Will a half inch wheel stud fit a stock T wheel? What about a 15x7 Buick ralley wheel. I've been perusing eBay for some longer studs to put the prostar wheels on and be tech eligible but would want to get some open ended lugs to run the stock wheels with. The regal goes 12x1.5 and it seems they are available in longer varieties. Was looking at the ones for the GS and they appear to be a 7/16 size. But I guess I could go to a 1/2".
-
I have a stock T wheel at the house. I will test it when I get a chance, but I cannot see why not as the wheels I am using are an OEM GM wheel. 5/8" studs might need some mods.
-
This exhaust system has been one seriously exhausting undertaking. But, it is mostly done now (just need to weld the hangers on).
The biggest challenge was fitting this exhaust with cats and getting the x-pipe to cooperate. I had to section the DS front leg and kick it out, add a bunch of pipe sections, and grunt a lot. Holley got this right on their Blackheart exhaust. Speaking of Holley... I really don't think they were thinking about using full-sized cats with their headers.
I decided to put a second WBO2 bung in the x-pipe to get a balanced reading off both banks. There is some debate about how much error there is having a sensor post-cat (0.1-0.5 AFR on the gas scale) - however for the purposes of baseline tuning it is plenty accurate. I will move the sensor forward of the cat when I start doing WOT blasts.
Other than that it was just a bunch of tweaks to make sure the cats, pipes, mufflers, and tails were all even and level.
Back to tweaking the tune. I will post another idle video once I get the tune better sorted (and yes, it sounds sweet).
-
Decided not to shorten my 4" diameter shaft, and had a 3.5" made instead. When I did the final assembly of the exhaust the x-pipe needed to be moved back, so gaining some room with suspension droop is going to be advantageous.
Also built an overflow/expansion tank (started running out of space for things) and added a vacuum distribution block for the heater bypass valve (seriously the only reason I need a vacuum source in this car thanks to electronics).
-
You'll find the 3.5" driveshaft is enough. Be thankful you have so much room under there. The 3.5" shaft in my bird severely limits exhaust room.
-
I just wanted to take a moment and thank Steve Wood for learning me about the benefits of Teflon paste. I put that shit on everything with an NPT threaded connection.
-
You didn't learn that shit 15 years ago when he told me to stop using tape :D
-
Oh I did, I just couldn't find any until a few years ago.
-
Rector seal number 5 is good stuff.
-
I seem to recall that Masters was the only dope approved (locally) for Nat Gas and Propane.
( What do you mean I just can't move this pipe?..)
-
Looking good Mike! Got a projected test drive date?
-
Did somebody say propane?! ;)
Thanks Jason... it might move under its own power tomorrow. I finished up a few minor things thus far this weekend: 3" wheel studs, torquing down the front suspension, heat shielding around the gas tank, more wiring, and finally got the brakes to hold pressure (we'll see how well in the morning).
Other than that I have a few little things left to do; but most important is to fill the differential.
I know I would really like to wash it.
-
And done!
No, not really.
Today was just a bunch of farting around tying up loose ends... hell I even put the interior back together. We had snow today, and now lots of rain, so I could not get it outside to dink around with it - or wash it. More rain tomorrow.
But, for the first time in 3.5 years it is on the ground - and sitting at 25.5" front and 26.5" rear. Going to need to add a lot of negative camber... probably source some offset cross shafts.
Going to have to do the safety circle jerk in the meantime (lights and stuff) to make sure it is prepped for certification.
-
Almost there Mike looking Good! :rock:
-
Are you sitting behind the wheel making drag race noises?
-
Are you sitting behind the wheel making drag race noises?
Crying mostly. Because I know once this is up and running I have to fix the TBSS next, and then start rebuilding the MCSS.
-
Mike,
Those are just first world problems!!! :)
The car looks great, you have done an amazing job and should be very proud of yourself!!!
-
Mike,
Those are just first world problems!!! :)
The car looks great, you have done an amazing job and should be very proud of yourself!!!
Thanks!
Almost there Mike looking Good! :rock:
Thanks!
-
Drove it around the block two-footing it the whole way, and washed it in the rain. Because car guy.
-
Sweet! Nothing like a little a payoff.
-
I'm not sure there is something you remember more than the first trip around the block. Even if there are still things to do on the project. I'm in on the car guy wash, except I rarely wash my vehicles. But I'm pretty sure I'm a car guy.
Nice Work!
-
Thanks guys, it is hard not to get caught up in the moment (like just listening to it idle) after all this time.
-
If it is running in pretty sure you have made an accomplishment . I'd sit in my lawn chair and soak in the idle . That's what car guys do.
-
I hear you. I must have stood in front of it for a good 10 mins just looking. Yesterday was only the second time I had ever seen it in daylight.
The next step is to convince Natasha to do Power Tour with it. The funny thing is that she is become very vocal recently about getting back into Auto-X - wants a 3rd Gen Camaro.
-
You need to cruise around and embarrass a few local kids :)
-
I have one near term goal for this car: use it drop my oldest off on her first day of school in September. Because I want to be "that Dad".
-
Awesome Job Mike! its been very cool watching you progress on this project.
-
Awesome Job Mike! its been very cool watching you progress on this project.
Thanks, Steve! It is a little weird not having any major hurdles to overcome with this car (other than tuning and certification/registration). I might have to slow down a hair over the summer before getting back to wrenching on projects.
-
Where is the burnout video?
-
Don't I wish. I still have to do 500 break-in miles on the S60, each at short distances at a steady 50mph, with complete cool downs in between. Very annoying.
When I did the 3.08 gear swap in my Buick the break-in was driving it to the track and beating the living shit out it. But, that was $300, not $3000; and a decade of wisdom gained.
-
I am a horrible person.
Yesterday I robbed a bunch of rubber parts off of the other cars to continue refreshing the wagon. Many rubber door bumpers were stolen. It is going to be a rainy weekend so I doubt I am going to get to do much tuning - so I will probably just insulate the doors with some more sound deadener.
-
Yup get them broke in.
-
Alright here is the solution for the key lock-out (aka NSS)/reverse light issue with using the stock column range rod and the Hooker swap headers.
1. The bracket which mounts on the brake distribution block needs to have the ball socket moved up 1/2". I cut it along the bend and rewelded it - make sure you measure the angle first before cutting;
2. The bracket on the transmission selector switch need to be cut and moved up 1/2". Note you will need a nut that does not have an integrated washer due to the reduced threads to draw down against (and yes, you could weld the brackets together too);
3. The cross shaft which translates the movement from the shifter/transmission selector switch to the column lock-out needs to be straightened and shaped to go over the header. Guess how much clearance you need to add? That's right - 1/2"! I used a vice and a BFH to give it that sweet custom reverse banana bend;
4. The pinch nut which goes to the column rod needs to flipped to the other side of the bracket on the cross shaft. I rounded the edges off of it to reduce the risk of it binding on things; and
5. Lastly, you may find that you want to chop an inch or two off of the cross shaft that inserts into the ball socket. I took close to 2" off and ran a shorter spring. This really aided in assembly with the header in the way. You may also find that you want to chop an inch off of the bottom of the column rod - your results may vary. Measure once, cut once, weld once, measure again, and cut again.
I am running a B&M shifter and a 4L60E which may be wider at the case body location for the transmission selector switch than other GM transmissions.
-
Aligned the car today. Boy is the stock stuff limited in its adjustability range. Best I could get was 3.5* caster, -1.25* camber, and 0 toe. Garbage!
Bled the brakes again... so many bubbles.
Oh, and I would say that the SFCs I built are doing their job stiffening up the car.
-
Man I like them wheels!
-
That looks pretty rigid for a gbody.
-
Man I like them wheels!
I will sell them. ;)
That looks pretty rigid for a gbody.
Being a wagon probably helps a lot. However, the frame is tied together with the SFCs and the body and frame are tied together through the harness bar/weight jacker setup, and I am sure that the monsterous G-Force crossmember is having an effect too. But, mostly because it is a long roof car. ;)
-
We had a short break in the weather!
So I did a little tuning today and it is going surprisingly well, cold start was good, idle in P/N and Drive was good, putting around the 'hood was good. Only a few tweaks to the VE table were in order. Hot restart was a little lean so that is probably an OLFA matter.
The steering and suspension feels really tight - but ARGH! - it is rubbing on the fender liners because it doesn't have enough negative camber. I figure I can fix this with offset shafts shoved in some circle track arms, a stack of shims, and narrower tires (245/45R17 on a 9.5" wheel); or alternatively I can start cutting up my rare LeMans fenderliners (not a fan of that idea).
Appropriately Natasha asked what that was going to cost - I couldn't muster a response and just hung my head in shame.
-
Sat down with a coffee and Google to do some thinking about those pesky fenderliners.. .
Felt a lot like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSVMW3jZcg4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSVMW3jZcg4)
What about heat to reshape the plastic? Bingo. It is done all the time in the slammed luxury car world. An hour later I had gained some much needed space. I won't know how much until the next time I take it for a boot.
-
If you can't afford a Steinel heat gun HD has a Milwaulkiee / Wagner with LED temps indicators (~$50) that isn't bad.
-
Natasha's Mastercraft unit worked well enough, and ironically probably kept me from over doing it being underpowered. That being said it is good enough to heat up press-fit parts to get them to slide on.
If I really need to keep an eye on temps I bust out my Mastercraft laser temp gun.
-
Mastercraft not being the ski boat but the house brand of CTC. How do we describe Canadian Tire? A combination of Ace hardware and Pep boys or the old Sears automotive and tool sections?
'Course dunno how they would describe Frys to us...
-
Crappy Tire is my one tier tool level above Princess Auto. I am not a Pro, just a Joe. If I did this sort of thing for real I would buy nicer tools.
-
I have a harbor freight heat gun - and it's pretty nice for $13.99 :O
I wish we had a fry's - there is a microcenter in madison heights (Detroit), it's an interesting place to go. I just wish it was closer.
-
We have the frys(actually two within an hour drive) and the microcenter place is up near the second frys. I haven't been in the frys lately. I have bought several refurbished items from them. We used to have a CompUSA that had refurbished stuff but they shut that down and I guess it is the tigerdirect.co m on the interwebz. Brick n mortar is as dead as newspapers from what I can see. I can order stuff, I don't need to have them do it and mark it up for me.
-
This thing is safetied, registered and insured.
Now what am I going to do with my time?
-
If it's not broke fix it till it is.
-
Time to start on the monte
-
Points well taken gentlemen.
-
You really didn't think I was done, did you?
-
Finished it up this morning. Kept the IATs between 75-85*F on the move - not bad for just a box fed from the cowl.
-
Nice! Where do you have the IAT sensor located? I moved mine to the plenum and with the heat soak, it gets up in the mid 100's F at cruise while low 90's ambient.
-
The IAT sensor is in that short section of straight pipe between the two silicone couplers. I may move it closer to the filter/in the airbox to see if there is a benefit to keeping it away from radiant exhaust heat.
-
So does it seal to the hood?
The ram air on my bird is amazing.
-
So does it seal to the hood?
The ram air on my bird is amazing.
Eventually? I still have to order some NACA ducts and feed the box from the hood... until then it is really just a glorified heatshield.
-
it is really just a glorified heatshield.
it really is lol
-
it is really just a glorified heatshield.
it really is lol
What exactly is your point?
-
I was pointing out that you wernt kidding.
-
Did you put a drain hole in it so it doesn't fill up with water?
-
I was pointing out that you wernt kidding.
So you are making light of the thing that I already affirmed? Again, why?
-
Did you put a drain hole in it so it doesn't fill up with water?
The trans dipstick tube is a good one for that... but the left and right rear corners are open. I will add a hydrophobic sock over the filter to help prevent hydrolocking - and if I do it right water won't be directed at the filter (because fluids don't like to turn 90* when suspended in air).
-
Cuz it made me giggle if you really want the truth.
-
We were back at T-Ball again tonight. One of these things is not like the others.
-
Nice! Always get the looks when dragging your kid around in something a bit different
-
I feel good about myself driving a minivan - said no man ever.
-
I feel good about myself driving a minivan - said no man ever.
THIS!
-
I am guessing that I am way overdue for this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSGD2SmHASM&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSGD2SmHASM&feature=youtu.be)
Modest sized house, ample garage, derelict cars on jack stands, and a bag of rock salt because it can always snow in Canada.
-
Sounds good Mike
-
Thanks! It is pretty amazing the quality of video you can shoot with a phone these days.
-
Digging the plate! I wanna drive it
-
Thanks! And come on up!
-
Started chopping away at the deficiencies list (thankfully it is pretty long). Added a rear hood bumper, nut and bolted the rear suspension and exhaust, added some heat wrap to some wiring, topped up the cooling system. Don't want to finish too much too soon to avoid heading into perpetual boredom (aka the only thing left to do is polish it).
I really need to add that other GTO badge to the tailgate...