IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Just a Six? on September 23 2020, 01:20:37 PM
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I have the new rad & heater core in & I've always used distilled water & RMI 25 but it rusts up a bit over time & I usually drain & refill it every couple years. I'm wondering if I should use some anti-freeze or a bottle of that water pump lubricant additive? The 2 pipes from water pump to heater core running along the passenger side have a fair amount of rust inside them. I have a spray can of Rust Converter I used on some metal before it was painted & it worked half decent but I have to check if it will hold up being in water all the time? Any other ideas to deter rust in my nice new system? :chin:
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You are not in a hot enough climate to really benefit from straight water and rmi25. I would run a normal antifreeze mixture plus a 8 oz of rmi25 once a year and change it every couple of years.
I would not put rust converter in it as that stuff is usually acid based and that does not sound like a good idea to me. Right now, the rust is probably adding to the strength of the tubing LOL
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btw, the normal life of rmi25 is six months as I recall....a lot of those water pump lubes don't last that long.
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The evans waterless coolant has always intrigued me. But not enough to spend $50 a gallon + whatever the prep fluid costs.
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I would not put rust converter in it as that stuff is usually acid based and that does not sound like a good idea to me. Right now, the rust is probably adding to the strength of the tubing LOL
Steve you're probably right! I'll grab some Prestone or similar & get it filled up. Thanks! :cheers:
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David,don’t be a cheap bugger! 😉
You’re spent a bundle on the car and replaced the radiator , Heater so why not replace the steel coolant line with a stainless steel unit .
you’ll never have to worry about it again !
I’m with Steve on this one, I run Prestone antifreeze Plus RMI 25 and have so for years with no ill effects 👍
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Dave I didn't know they exist I assume Kirban would sell them? I'll take a look & see what I find unless you have a link? :D
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Question, the rmi 125, what's the advantage of adding this?
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I ran RMI25 with distilled water instead of any coolant back when I was at the track a lot so when I popped a head gasket it didn't damage the bearings. Pretty much all I've used in the car but will probably throw in some prestone this time.
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rmi-25 is surfactant as well as it stops rust and keeps antifreeze from developing precipitates which clog cooling passages and reduces heat transfer from the water jackets to the coolant. It is an additive and is good for about six months before it needs another shot.
When I lived in Houston, I ran distilled water and rmi from May to the beginning of November. It dropped coolant temps about 11 degs over an antifreeze mixture and keep everything clean in the cooling system.
It is used by long haul truckers and can often be found in truck shops. I buy it by the quart as it is cheaper than way and get it mail order.
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I hear in Houston over heating vehicles are the least of their worries,
How did you measure the temp drop? Themostat or no?
I believe RMI was developed by Detroit diesel but may be wrong on that,
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I've been using rmi25 for years with no problems. But if you have any pinhole leaks you fixed with a stop=leak product in your radiator, heater core, freeze out plugs or what ever it will wash it away and leak again.
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I hear in Houston over heating vehicles are the least of their worries,
How did you measure the temp drop? Themostat or no?
I believe RMI was developed by Detroit diesel but may be wrong on that,
Not using a thermostat can lead to problems. It was on a summer day with the temp over 100 degs-think it was 103 to the best of my recollection. Pretty sure the transmission fluid was not routed thru the radiator, either.
Reading the temp on my Scanmaster after prolonged idling. Dual Spal fans. Three pass aluminum radiator. AC on.
I concur with your statement about Houston
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Dave I didn't know they exist I assume Kirban would sell them? I'll take a look & see what I find unless you have a link? (http://www.ihadav8.com/forum/Smileys/default/icon_biggrin.gif)
GBody has em,
im running this on mine
https://gbodyparts.com/turbo-buick-stainless-steel-coolant-lines-black-stainless-without-throttle-body-p-3908.html?osCsid=bb7930e00376ec49d6c523a1a3d3c819 (https://gbodyparts.com/turbo-buick-stainless-steel-coolant-lines-black-stainless-without-throttle-body-p-3908.html?osCsid=bb7930e00376ec49d6c523a1a3d3c819)
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Why not try soaking in Evapo-Rust
I’ve been using this stuff for years and has worked great for me.
got it from Princess Auto
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Evapro-rust is awesome. But it's expensive as hell and sucks when you dilute it.
Molasses is a lot cheaper
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Dave I just ordered one from them because Glen at Highway Stars won't ship to Canada anymore. I told them that I get stuff monthly from Rock Auto & now GBody but they said no. It was stock replacement for 50% of what GBody charged me. I was going to ship to Orlando first then here but in the end that's not worth the hassle. The shiny & no nipple should look pretty decent.
I do like the Rust stuff looks like it may be good for Metal Prep before paint coatings. :cheers:
I have a spray can of rust stop I used a while back on Metal Furniture that you just spray onto the rust & it makes it paintable. I remember ingredients said tannic acid from plants. Came from Canuck Tire in automotive section & it's about $12-$13 a can.
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The GBody ones without the throttlebody outlets are nice...and pricey but, still nice
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David,don’t be a cheap bugger! 😉
You’re spent a bundle on the car and replaced the radiator , Heater so why not replace the steel coolant line with a stainless steel unit .
you’ll never have to worry about it again !
I’m with Steve on this one, I run Prestone antifreeze Plus RMI 25 and have so for years with no ill effects 👍
How long do you guys expect to live? :) We got 30 years out of the originals- I would like to think I still have my drivers licence at 95 yrs old but dunno....:sw:
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Way to much thinking going on.
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No kidding
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It never ceases to amaze me how guys love to complicate these cars.
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What gets me is how selective it is.
Wars have been waged with the amount of emotion behind brand names (not weights) of oil, yet nobody gives a shit about brand of transmission fluid. Mobil1 'destroys engines' but Wal*Mart (where I get mine) is fine ATF, nobody cares.
Then, you got the guys that change the oil every 300 miles, or once a month, and probably still has the original brake fluid in the car from the 80's. And nobody gives a crap about gear dope brand or weight or type. (There are the 'experts' that say you have to run posi-additive on a 150,000 G80... They just don't know why. And I never run whale snot in my G80. It's too worn to need it. ESP with my synthetic dope).
The cooling system can sometimes we worse than oil. If a car runs hot because the radiator is clogged the solution is NOT to install a non-clogged radiator.... You have to have some hi-dollar all aluminum wizbang radiator that can keep the ISS cool when out sun goes supernova.
Oh and you have to have a cooling fan that pulls 1000amps and sucks harder than a Thai hooker.... too cool down the 15hp a car makes at idle. None of that heat comes from the Massive parasitic drag from the 10,000 amp alternator blowing through the 16 gauge charge lead...
...even though the grill opening is always the same size and air still weighs the same 8/100#/ft3.
To quote Travis W. Redfish (Meatloaf) from the movie ''Roadie''... ''Things will work if you just let 'em''.
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Even jegs and summit would go under if they didn't have a trick of the month to sell. Everybody has to make a living.
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"sucks harder than a Thai hooker.... " CLASSIC :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
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I was a Buick vendors worst nitemare. I was one of these guys who dragged the most from the least.
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So I'm still working on issues with the car & this one is new to me? New rad, heater core & 160 thermostat are new & the only old parts are the heater core water Control Valve & rad cap. When I run the car for as little as 30-45 seconds the rad builds up pressure so that when I remove the cap it's holding a fair amount of pressure as far as to sometimes shoot water out as I remove the cap? Also that 30 seconds run time has the pressure held a good week later opening the cap? I've never had this happen unless the rad was hot from minutes of run time but never 30 seconds?
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You put the thermostat in backwards or its stuck or clogged with dodo.
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Thanks Ed I'll take a look at it tomorrow. I hope it's not backwards but nothing's impossible with this car lately!
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I took out the thermostat filled the rad & started the car to make sure the water is flowing & it's moving a good amount of water especially when I raise the rpm above idle. So put on the rad cap & run it 30 secs & turn off the car. Slowly open rad cap & it's totally pressurized & would puke water if I took the cap off all the way so what the hell is going on?
On a side note I ran it for a couple mins yesterday before I shut it off & there was No pressure this morning unlike how it held when the thermostat was installed.
There is a bit of brown foamy residue in the water because I tried to flush the old rad & heater core a few times & then purchased the new ones so I'm sure there was some left inside the other parts when I filled it but it's not chunky just foamy bubbles floating on the top of the water. I think I got most of it out with fresh water but still a bit in there.
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Are you sure the headgaskets are intact?
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As said sounds like a headgasket. I thought all was good before the radiator and cooling system work. That's why I said check thermostat
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Dave, if you have to pull the engine, let me know.
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Thanks guys I'll maybe check compression again but all was good & now something weird is going on because after 1-2 mins run time it's puffing oil as well? I never really drove the car much at all this year so it just makes no sense? :013:
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If you need help wrenching on it, I'm a phone call away.
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Thanks Brad lets see how it plays out but I may take you up on that offer! :cheers:
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Check the DP for oil. Maybe the turbo is leaking. When the DP gets warm it'll start burning off.
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Did you fill the coolant system with the nose up in air so the fill point is the highest point? If all you did was change cooling components, I’d say you don’t have all the air out of the system. I don’t remember Buick’s being a problem but some of the newer stuff it can be a pain the bleed all the air out.
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Jeremy might be correct. I had a helluva time getting the air out of mine. Throw a pan under the rad and let it burp itself.
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https://smile.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6?sa-no-redirect=1
These are worth every penny. I used mine for the first time changing the coolant on the wifes Honda.
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There no thermostat in it now & it has coolant flowing strong plus I pre filled the heater core so I don't think it's air but nothing else makes sense for the changes I made? I did an oil change Friday & it was on the darker side but no milkshake or particles of any kind.
I've been chasing both issues for weeks checking everything twice?
Yesterday pistons #3 was 150 & #5 was 160 after 30 secs run time but Tuesday I'll check compression again on all of them.
Brad I didn't check the turbo but the wheel on intake side was pretty solid the beginning of the year although I haven't checked the exhaust side in a few years so it's time to pull off the downpipe. I know this car pretty good & I'm chasing a ghost with both my issues?
I used to pull the motor every fall just for fun but it's not as appealing anymore. :rolleyes;
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https://smile.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6?sa-no-redirect=1 (https://smile.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6?sa-no-redirect=1)
These are worth every penny. I used mine for the first time changing the coolant on the wifes Honda.
That looks like a handy tool to have for only $20
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Drill a 1/32 hole in the thermostat. It takes care of all the air bleeding issues.
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and yes, you need a thermostat for proper cooling.
Maybe you can find an exhaust gas kit tester to check the coolant for signs of exhaust indicating a blown hg
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Some of the ARP studs don't sit correctly and need extra washers for proper clamping force. Not sure if that applies to your setup.
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https://www.amazon.ca/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF (https://www.amazon.ca/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF)
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Thanks for the link Dave! :cheers:
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https://smile.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6?sa-no-redirect=1 (https://smile.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6?sa-no-redirect=1)
These are worth every penny. I used mine for the first time changing the coolant on the wifes Honda.
We can't get that one without "import fees" , I believe this one to be the equivalent:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01I40ZQWE
edit link - wow a 2 page link