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Topics - 1KWIKSIX
16
« on: November 18 2014, 08:36:10 PM »
Hey Gord, Got your shipment.....  sent you a PM thx dave
17
« on: September 28 2014, 02:32:26 PM »
Looking for a Quad Air volt Booster.
Also, need 2 of the small blue round clips that secure the wiring to the back side of the window & door lock switches.LMK what you've got.
Shipping to Niagara Falls, NY 14303
thanks
dave
18
« on: August 31 2014, 02:54:55 PM »
Am going to be replacing the door lock covers (bezels) with some new ones. I've got the lock cylinders out, but am unsure of how these are held on. Are they just a press fit or do they need to be pried off & new ones crimped on to stay in place?[/size]Just wondering if anyone can help me on this project.thanks dave
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19
« on: October 24 2013, 08:46:26 PM »
I have a friend who would like to change over to the basic translator & LT1 MAF.
Can he run this with his stock chip & injectors?
thx
dave
20
« on: June 29 2013, 11:44:33 AM »
Parts For Sale
Located in Mississauga, ON . Canada but can ship from Niagara Falls NY for US shipments
Shipping extra on all items.
Please add 3% if using PayPal.
1 Pair L&R of Sun Visors (1 illuminated) @ $25.00 - SOLD
Buick MotorSport Valve Covers @ $150.00 / pr - SOLD
New SC&C front triangulated (welded) chasis brace c/w fastners & installation instructions. Will fit stock factory intercooler or front mounts. @ $175.
New TR Custom Parts -10 turbo drain line @ $80.00
1 pair NIB "Light Weight" Cdn Export Front Bumper Mount Brkts @ $75.00
(3) Kirbans Upper A Arm bushing heat shield @ $20. 00 each
10" PTC 2800 stall non lock up torque convertor @ $225.00
12" Pro Torque Restalled D5 Torque convertor 2600 stall @ $150.00 - SOLD
Used Shorty TR Custom Parts Turbo Protector comes with SS braided line & fttgs + new filter . Will fit with Precision SLIC @ $150.00 (a must for your DBB turbo)
pr Rebuilt upper A Arms c/w new moog problem solver bushings & new ball joints(clean & freshly painted satin black) @ $75.00 - SOLD
pr Rebuilt lower A Arms c/w new moog problem solver bushing & new ball joints(clean & freshly painted satin black) @ $100.00 pr - SOLD
New AC Delco / GNX 02 sensor (unopened pkg) @ $15.00 -SOLD
(2) licence plate frames @ $10.00 ea
(Black:It's Just a V6- You can't Loose) - SOLD
(Chrome: "Grand National") - SOLD
Used Coolant Tank @ $5.00
Used Coolant Tank @ $10.00
Used WW fluid tank @ $5.00
Intercooler Fan c/w mounting plate @ $15.00
Vacuum Block tapped $5.00
Steering Wheel (it's for a Driver) @ $50.00
1 pkg of grey valve stem caps @ $5.00 - SOLD
1 AC Delco PF52 Oil Filer @ $5.00 - Sale Pending
1 set (L&R) A pillar moldings @ $20.00 set - SOLD
1 set of 4 New Polyurethane Rad Support Bushings @ $10.00 - SOLD
1 pr H4 Head Lamps c/w 55w/60w Hi - Low bulb @ $20.00 pr
(2) Caspers HID D2s shields @ $35.00 pr
Assorted K&N Breathers @ $5.00 ea
Jeep Steering Shaft @ $40.00
thanks,
dave
21
« on: January 28 2013, 07:31:28 PM »
I'd like to add cruise control to my Buick.
Does anyone know if I can just bolt one on?
Is there wiring in place from the factory to facilitate bolting in a used cruise control unit from another GN?
I realize that I'll need a cruise stalk .
Is this do-able? I recall hearing that running the wiring thru the steering columnn is a biatch.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
22
« on: August 26 2012, 05:19:49 PM »
Am looking for the line lock activation button / switch that was once made / offered by Tom Houser of "Performance Instruments" back in the day.[/size]This activation button / switch is mounted inside the RH shifter handle button giving a stealth installation.I f anyone has one or knows where I can obtain one, please let me know. Pics or any literature / information would be greatly appreciated.I've tried to contact Tom, but without any success.Thanks,  Dave[/color]
23
« on: March 12 2012, 07:13:40 AM »
Hey Dave,
Sent you a PM
thx.
dave
24
« on: March 02 2012, 07:31:59 AM »
Now's a good time to buy those GTA rims you've been putting off. 20% off till March 6th.....pretty good deal! Here's the deal: Hurry, our up-to 20% Off Sale ends March 6th, 2012 at midnight. Use code MAD12 when asked during checkout A set of four (zero degree offset) wheels for $719.99 (believe these are the fronts) Part Number: # *R4410 If you can get a 20% discount this = $575.99......that's a crazy deal!  http://www.classicindustries.com/firebird/parts/*r4410.html Some restrictions apply. Please check www.classicindustries.com for current pricing.
25
« on: February 03 2012, 07:33:38 AM »
Am going to remove my stock turbo drain line from the block tomorrow. Unfortunately , car is stored about an hour away, so I can't determine the proper sized wrenches to take.
Can anyone tell me what size wrenches I need to remove both the large brass hex bushing & the nut on the end of the turbo oil drain line? This area is difficult to reach using an adjustable wrench as it's pretty crowded.
Thanks for your help.
dave
26
« on: February 02 2012, 05:27:57 PM »
My radiator only has 1 useable cooler / heat exchanger in it now. When I last had my radiator re-cored some years ago, I was told that one of the internal coolers in the rad tank was damaged beyone use. So, I have been using the one remaining internal cooler for my oil lines.
My transmission lines go to an external air cooled transmission cooler which is mounted in front of the radiator fins.
I am changing over from my stock D5 convertor to a 10" PTC 2800 Stall L/up unit and am concerned about extra temps / higher heat in the transmission fluid.
Am I OK the way my set up is now? I do understand that liquid is much more efficient at cooling. Or, should I invest in a new radiator with both tanks & route my transmission lines into the radiator end tank cooler / exchanger first, then have this feed the air cooled transmission cooler which would then go back into the transmission?
This is a street car / driver and track use would be very limited (if at all).
Car is stored in winter and will not see cold weather driving conditons.
Just looking for some guidance or insight on this subject.
Thanks,
dave
27
« on: December 07 2011, 06:39:20 AM »
After about 65,000 original miles, I've decided to do some mechanical work.
Having developed an oil leak at the oil pan / rear main....I've decided to change these out over the winter while the car is in storeage.
While I'm at it I'd also like to change the front seal in the timing cover too. Have some Fel Pro Neoprene seals coming for both ends.
Will also be changing my valve springs.
Am considering installing TA Steel Billet Timing Gears and chain. See that they have the billet gears in a set using a double roller chain & also have a set available that uses the billet gears with replacement single row chain that utilizes the chain tensioner.
My car sees street duty, but may see a few trips to the drag strip at some point in time, but is primarily driven on the road.
Car is a stock unopened block with a bunch of bolt ons.....Precis ion DBB 5857 -S/P, Adj Waste Gate Actuator, 4" Cold Air Intake, 85mm MAF, 3 1/2" MAF Pipe, GenII Translator, Extender Extreme Chip, 60# Injectors, Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator, 62mm TB & Plenum, RJC Plate, Kenne Bell Headers, 3" int gate DP, 2 1/2" ATR Exhaust with Pit Bulls, 160 T-Stat, Ramcharger Dual Fans, Scan Master, boost gauge, Walboro Fuel Pump with hot wire kit, etc. etc.
Trying to decide which gears / chain set up to go with ?
Anyone have any experiences they can share with me about using either style of these chains? What would the positives / negatives be with either of these set ups?
Your comments and suggestions would be most welcome.
Thanks for your help.
Best Wishes of the Season to you and yours!
dave
28
« on: October 31 2011, 08:25:34 AM »
Well, got home yesterday after my last drive of the season before putting car away in winter storeage.
Can smell burning oil and saw tons of grey smoke in my rearview mirror, however this was present only as I got into boost on the hiway and hi speeds.
Kinda reminded me of the old James Bond 007 movies where he deploys a smoke screen while peeling off in his Aston Martin. LOL
Noticed lots of oil on crossover pipe and transmission inspection cover & cross member, etc...all oil soaked etc....
Always had a bit of a weeping rear main seal.....and noticed this summer that the blue rubber fel pro oil pan gasket has seen better days.....was protruding in areas and cracked.
I'm pretty sure that this is where the oil is coming from....
Guess it's time to change the oil pan gasket, rear main seal and might as well do the front timimg cover seal at the same time?
I understand that the cork oil pan gasket is the way to go? Any preferred brand (part #)? Same goes for the rear main seal?
Anyone tell me from their experience doing these repairs if they can be done with the engine still in the car?
Or, is it simply easier to pull the motor to do these.
May consider changing the timing chain & gears too while I'm at it.
I have a 10" PTC 2800 stall convertor that I was planning on installing.... .since I gotta pull the tranny to do this...maybe just as well pull the motor?
Would appreciated any helpful comments & guidance .
thanks,
dave
29
« on: September 30 2011, 05:53:43 PM »
Can anyone tell me how to contact the site moderator? I'd like to change my registered name.
thanks,
dave
30
« on: September 29 2011, 09:46:40 PM »
Thought the WG actuator on my new turbo was a stock adjustable. I asked the vendor to be sure to install the stock WG with the turbo.
Went ahead and installed it with out checking. Now I see it looks to be a HD adjustable unit. I've just installed RJC's boost / bleeder valve at the same time too. When I installed the WG arm....adjuste d it to about 1/8" tension and RJC valve almost completely open so very little tension on the spring inside.
Can anyone tell me what what boost range this set up may allow. I'm not running akly...just 94 octane pump gas. Don't wanna be changing head gaskets anytime soon!
I do have the standard WG too, if need to install.
thanks,
dave
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