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Messages - john robertson
31
« on: October 02 2019, 12:08:07 PM »
So, I'm assuming that if the vibration is caused by the converter or the transmission, which I will know for sure, soon, there's no recourse to be sure it's the converter, and not the trans, but to install another converter? I can replace it with a stock D-5 to be sure. I was just wishfully thinking there might be some other course of action. 
32
« on: October 02 2019, 10:28:56 AM »
All of a sudden my car developed an annoying vibration @1500 to 1700 rpm, approximately. It does it in neutral, park, and also while I'm going through that rpm range while driving. When observing the engine, I see no noticeable vibrating which leads me to believe it's in the transmission. I aim to disconnect the converter later today, and I expect the vibration to stop. If that's the case, would it be more likely the problem is in the converter or the transmission? I've checked for loose stuff and haven't found anything. By the way I have HR mounts on the engine and transmission, but never suffered any vibration upon installing them. This is out of the blue. TIA
33
« on: February 15 2019, 06:35:00 PM »
Without doing anything, I'd give them a couple months at the most. ESP if you do it now, because the refineries are making 'winter blend' which flashes off even faster than normal.
it's really not that complex. If you have a second set of hands, you could take a 9volt battery and it's wires to do the same thing. I'm sure 9 volts would be enough to chatter the little electro magnet just to get some jizz in there.
My test rig sounds more complex than it really was. I had a 12V cordless drill fall of my deck and break in two. I was left with a handle/trigger that had two wires poking out the top and a 12V battery on the bottom. It was perfect for applying momentary pulses of 12V since the trigger is already a momentary switch. 
I used the Yamaha Carb Cleaner because I had it and I know how well it works on bike and ATV carbs. (and doesn't eat plastic or rubber). Since it's designed to dissolve gas varnish and doesn't eat base material, I figured it'd be great to keep varnish from happening in the first place.
OK, I finally got around to try to clean my injectors for storage. I made up a harness with which to apply momentary pulses to the injector as per your description. I put three inches of fuel line on top of the injector and filled it with the cleaner, made momentary pulses to the injector, so basically now what? Nothing came out the bottom of the injector. Do I somehow have to pressurize the cleaning fluid to have it go through, or what?
34
« on: February 13 2019, 07:59:22 AM »
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh-Uemf8-RU#t=6
Shit! If you think that video is funny, THIS is really funny!  H ow about that newly elected African congresswoman who dared to suggest that (((AIPAC))) pays off our illustrious lawmakers for influence. What a hoot that claim is. Here's an excerpt from The Foreign Policy Journal that blows that shit right out of the water: AIPAC itself does not make political contributions and is in fact legally prohibited from doing so. Instead it uses its considerable resources ($3 million annual lobbying budget) to link current and aspiring members of Congress with pro-Israel donors. AIPAC’s projection of invincibility encourages political candidates and officeholders to accept pro-Israel contributions or risk seeing those funds go to their opponents. For example, former Congressman Paul Findley and former Senator Charles Percy lost their seats for failure to adhere to the AIPAC line.
The AIPAC-led pro-Israel lobby is probably the strongest, best organized and most effective lobby network in Washington DC. For the 2015-2016 election cycle, the pro-Israel network has already dispensed $4,255,136 in contributions. The largest single amount ($259,688) went to Senator Charles Schumer of New York.
Among interest groups that lobby on behalf of a foreign government, none ranks higher in contributions to members of Congress than the pro-Israel lobby.
To illustrate how such contributions influence legislative action, take two pro-Israel bills introduced on February 10, 2016, one in the House and one in the Senate, both with the title: “Combatting BDS Act of 2016.” H.R.4514, introduced by Illinois Congressman Bob Dold, has 22 cosponsors; of those 23 members, 12 receive 2016 pro-Israel lobby contributions averaging $23K. S. 2531, introduced by Senator Mark Kirk of Illinois, has 17 cosponsors; of the 18 cosponsors, 15 receive 2016 pro-Israel lobby contributions that average $60K.
Several of those members of Congress who cosponsored the pro-Israel bill, but without 2016 contributions, received substantial gift money during the six years period 2009-2015. A maplight.org table shows that among House bill sponsors Bob Dold (who introduced the bill) received $118K; Kathleen Rice $49K; Jackie Walorski $46K; Doug Lamborn $37K, Trent Franks 19K; and Steve Stivers $9K. Among Senate bill sponsors, Joe Manchin received $122K; Orin Hatch $92K; Ben Cardin $241K; and Dean Heller $71K. In sum, all of the Senate cosponsors and all but three of the House cosponsors are pro-Israel lobby recipients.
35
« on: February 12 2019, 05:52:37 PM »
Yeah, AOC.  But of course, the dysfunction can't be attributed just to her or just the dimocrats. Clown world took some time to get here, but now we're right in the middle of it, and there is no knight in shining armor in the TOTALLY CORRUPT US gov that's going to fix anything. In fact they're working to make sure clown world stays in place.
36
« on: February 06 2019, 06:29:37 PM »
I used the Yamaha Carb Cleaner because I had it and I know how well it works on bike and ATV carbs. (and doesn't eat plastic or rubber). Since it's designed to dissolve gas varnish and doesn't eat base material, I figured it'd be great to keep varnish from happening in the first place.
I got the yamaha carb cleaner you recommended in the mail, today. I bought it through Walmart for $12.99 a quart, which, it's funny -- free shipping and no sales tax. No jiz though!
37
« on: February 06 2019, 05:56:34 PM »
I have the HR parts on the left and right, and also the trans mount on my GN. Going from the stockers to the polys I experienced no new vibrations. I was warned that I would, but it never happened. 
38
« on: January 31 2019, 06:44:04 PM »
Sounds straightforwar d enough. I never messed with fuel injectors on the bench, but with the specter of them going bad in a short time, I'll just have to figure it out per your suggestions. I wasn't familiar with the yamalube cleaner either, but found it online. That, and a little jizz works well on oil leaks, G-body door hinges, and apparently fuel injectors. 
39
« on: January 31 2019, 01:55:13 PM »
Thanks for that, Earl, but well past my paygrade. I'd probably short them out permanently. Would you guess how long they might remain ungummed up without doing that?
40
« on: January 31 2019, 12:06:44 PM »
This weekend I'm going to change out my injectors and install new ones. I'm just going to place them in a sealed plastic bag for storage. Is this the best way to store used injectors? There's a good chance I may be installing them on another TR so I want to keep them from becoming defective.
41
« on: January 12 2019, 06:40:39 PM »
None of my dipstick tubes have ever had O-rings. Mine were always a press fit with a layer or sealing jizz on them.
Well, in 22 years of owning these particular Buicks, big blocks before, I never needed any sealing jizz on the dipstick, so, who knew? Next time I have a leak, I'll just reach for the jizz. 
42
« on: January 10 2019, 02:57:46 PM »
Boy is it easy to fix an oil leak when you find where it's coming from.  Removing the PCV from the system increased crankcase pressure and allowed it to leak so I could watch it dribble out of the dipstick tube. When the leak was prevalent only in wetness on the oil pan and beyond, and leaking only while driving, by the time I looked for the source of the leak, the area around and below the dipstick tube, which I did check, was not wet at all. Apparently at some point in the last couple months, the dipstick tube vibrated it's way up and out and allowed it to leak. It is a factory unit, but just slides in without any effort. In addition to seating it all the way down to the O-Ring I rolled some masking tape around that part of the tube to make a tight fit. Took it for a five mile loop and the crossover pipe and beyond are stone dry. Thank you both Steve and Earl for your suggestions and help.
43
« on: January 10 2019, 11:31:35 AM »
OK, I plugged the PCV and took it out, and found it was dripping pretty good, even at idle. I brought it home, jacked it up, let it idle and found it's leaking out the base of the oil dipstick. It's no longer over full, but right at full on the dipstick. I'm going to pull the dipstick ou, check it out, and re-seat it and try to seal it. I have an O-ring on it, but it sits about a eighth or quarter inch above the hole, instead of being right down on it, though I don't understand why it's pushing oil out of it anyway. For more information, the motor runs strong; has relatively few miles on it, and it doesn't smoke, and certainly not out the breathers on each valve cover. 
44
« on: January 10 2019, 08:22:22 AM »
I'll be checking the PCV situation today, and will again jack up the car and check out the usual suspects. Also, I don't run a torque converter cover, and basically, the torque converter is not wet, but there is aways fresh oil on the crossover pipe on the left side of it. Can it be blowing out the rear main seal, but not dripping on my driveway at idle?
45
« on: January 09 2019, 07:32:58 PM »
My motor has about 6000 miles on it and I have developed an oil leak. It doesn't leak while idling or sitting over night. It leaks while driving. It's dripping on the crossover pipe, my deep trans pan gets wet, and the floor, mainly on the driver side gets wet and there are drips hanging from my rear transmission support, and wet behind it and back to the mufflers. I guess my question is can the oil blow out through the rear main seal, but that seal not leak while not running or idling? I'm asking because I've checked the usual places, valve covers, rear of intake, oil pan, front stuff, etc. Could I be pressurizing the crankcase with boost, and causing the rear main seal to allow oil to blow by? I'm going to bypass the PVC tomorrow and see if that helps. I had a shim on my stock oil pump relief spring to increase oil pressure which I removed today. Still leaked on 10 mile cruise. I'm running my oil level a pint over full which I'm going to remove tomorrow. However, I've run it this way for 6000 miles with no issues. I would go ahead and replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket, but I hate to do all that and have the same problem. Any speculations or suggestions would be welcome. 
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