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Messages - john robertson
16
« on: February 02 2020, 09:09:47 AM »
I had just changed my oil the other day, (I use conventional 20W50) and hadn't gone anywhere, so figured I'd go out and get some "Restore". Added it, and I guess I'll give it about 500 miles and then re-check the compression. Actually, I'll be shocked I tell you, SHOCKED, if my compression numbers increase. 
17
« on: February 01 2020, 01:26:42 PM »
Well, after reading some favorable reviews about it, I decided to do a compression check, and found my cylinders running between 130 and 140. I expected better, but it is what it is. Like I said, I'm quite happy with it's performance, but now, I'd like to see if this product will increase the compression as advertized.
18
« on: February 01 2020, 10:23:24 AM »
Just read some positive comments about the RESTORE additive. Maybe I will run a compression test, and replace my plugs while I'm at it. Let you know what I find.
19
« on: February 01 2020, 09:59:31 AM »
Hey, thanks for that Earl. I'll have to try it. As I mentioned, the car runs terrific but have wondered for some time now why the oil darkens so quickly, noticebly at 300 miles. Compression Test? Leak down? I haven't even fixed my torque converter lock-up on my El Camino yet! GN is fine though. 
20
« on: January 31 2020, 05:14:33 PM »
I have not seen that difference between similar cars. Normally, the color is a sign of the additive package reaction to heat and is not a sign of old or dirty oil.
My only thought is to send a couple of samples from different cars in for an oil test (mileage, etc. being similar) and see if anything is contrasted on the results.
It's an interesting question.
That's probably the only way I would know. I thought perhaps there was some common explanation for it like a PCV valve or something.
21
« on: January 31 2020, 05:04:21 PM »
Ya know, oil's cheap and still, I could check to be exact, but it's at least a month between changes on my GN, much longer on the other two because I don't drive them as much. The brand doesn't matter because I'm getting different results with the same oil. Also, I have two oil filters on two of the cars via turbo-lubers.
22
« on: January 31 2020, 01:48:07 PM »
I change my oil very frequently, usually at 1000 to 1200 miles. I've noticed for quite some time that it turns dark pretty fast, let's say at 300 to 400 miles. By the time I change it, it's pretty black and was wondering why. What's odd is that I have other turbo cars, and I follow the same regimen on oil changes, same oil, same filters, in fact, I might go up to 2000 miles on those cars, because I don't drive them as much or as hard as my GN, but the oil in those cars doesn't turn "black". It's not something I'm worried about because it runs great, but just wondering if there's any changes I could make to prevent this from happening.
23
« on: December 16 2019, 03:05:21 PM »
that Elky is sweet! Glad we helped you get one done!
Thankyou! I'll get around to it when I feel like jacking it up.
24
« on: December 16 2019, 12:26:55 PM »
If you have power on the purple wire at the transmission, it would appear to be the solenoid. If no power at the transmission, it would seem to be the switch on the pedal. Just have to follow the winding road
OK ... I resolved the issue on my GN. It was the blown fuse after all. I went on a longer loop to test it and it IS going into overdrive, at least for now. I'm saying that because I don't know why the fuse blew in the first place, and, who knows, it could happen again. Anyway, I've been driving my turbo elky for quite some time without lockup. I replaced the TCC solenoid some years back but it didn't fix it, and I just said to hell with it. So now, with this new found knowledge  , I checked the fuse, and it was not blown. The damn thing wasn't even there. I installed one and also, the pedal switch button was not even touching the brake pedal shaft. Fixed that, and it's working as it should, but still no lockup. I'm going to have to go to the trans plug and check to see if there voltage there. Not sure when I'll do that. I was more concerned with the GN. The Elky? I'll get to it. Thanks all of you for your help.
25
« on: December 16 2019, 10:33:14 AM »
Good for me to now know that there is a fuse for the TCC solenoid as per the Vortex troubleshootin g guide (thankyou!). I replaced the fuse and established power to the solenoid. Went for a test drive but it still didn't lock up, and thought I had re-blown the fuse, but when I came back I discovered it was not blown. At this point, I think I have to replace solenoid. I'll test some more to make sure before I do.
26
« on: December 16 2019, 08:23:35 AM »
Thanks! Will check the fuse first this morning. Hope that's it.
27
« on: December 15 2019, 04:38:44 PM »
Yeah, I have that mod, and it worked, but that's not the problem I've described. No power to the lock-up solenoid.
28
« on: December 15 2019, 03:31:37 PM »
I noticed last night my torque converter was not locking up. I know it was working rather recently, so it's not something that's been going on for a long time and I wasn't aware of it. I checked today to find out the wire that plugs into the transmission that powers the lock-up solenoid is not hot. A few years ago I put a switch on that wire so I could select whether or not I wanted the converter to lock. I use it all the time. Is that wire fused? Where does it get it's power from? Can I just power up the lock-up solenoid by putting 12 volts to a switch wired to the solenoid? I would have tried this already but I have to move some wires around to do it, so for now, it's easier to ask first.
29
« on: October 08 2019, 01:49:31 PM »
Hey, thanks guys for your suggestions, but just to finish up for future searches about unexplained vibrations, I failed to mention that the last thing I did before I noticed this objectionable vibration was I tightened my body mount bolts. Apparently, this is what caused it. I tried to reverse myself and loosen them back up, but nothing changed. The mounts were original and as it turned out, were shot. I replaced them over the last couple days with the Energy Suspension kit, and in doing so, the vibrations I caused by tightening up on the originals are gone. Nothin' but smooth sailin' now. 
30
« on: October 02 2019, 02:15:57 PM »
So it turns out that the vibration is not in the TC or the transmission but somewhere in front of it. I can't find anything conclusive. I'll just have to live with it unless it gets worse.
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