IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
General => IHADAV8 Playground => Topic started by: larrym on August 21 2018, 03:03:13 PM
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It was eating coils and now it won’t spin past 4000 rpm. So I’m still having issues but think I found the problem. I sent the box to Bob he figures it’s repairable.
My question is this appears to be a voltage problem my logs show 13 to 14.5 volts.
The power source for the module is a separate panel hot wired to the alternator I’m borrowing a stock module and coil should I wire a ballast resistor in line to be safe?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180821/5d5be0a0398de68273e2f8158df8ea4a.jpg)
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Don't understand why. It should handle 14.5 v with no problem at all as that is within the normal range.
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Hmm according to Bob that is the power to the coils just thought might be to much voltage.
I have checked all the coils and wires to the coils everything looks good.
The only thing I have changed is the power source to the module.
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Brad would run a volt booster and go for 15.5 v.
I see some are having problems with moisture getting into the TR6 due to a faulty o-ring seal.
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Well that could be the problem looked dry inside but who knows
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burning up coils followed by no start is one of the symptons
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Well I never had a nonstart but replaced 3 LS coils ...
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Hey Larry, How did it act at 4000 rpm? did it just stop and hang there or did it advance in rpm slowly?
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Would misfire and fall on it’s face.
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Don't understand why. It should handle 14.5 v with no problem at all as that is within the normal range.
ya they do. :cool; They are pretty dependable !
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You might ask Bob to change the dwell on the coils. I bet he has it set at .5 ms. Been reading and hearing lots of folks burning up the LS coils with anything above .45 ms
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Is there another type of coil being used as well? Somewhere in the back of my mind, I keep thinking I have heard of a problem with the LS coils....but it rained here and my imagination is fertile.
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Bob will look it over and has sent me a file to update the dwell to hopefully eliminate my issue
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Well I took my car to a little test and tune with a borrowed module and coil, made a couple decent licks but when I left hard it fell on its face.
Today I went of the car and think I may have found the problem, i have a cable from the battery to the engine block, it was loose.....
this would explain a lot of my issues I think eating coils and a scorched module.
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yep, it will increase the current draw on the ground paths
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Is there another type of coil being used as well? Somewhere in the back of my mind, I keep thinking I have heard of a problem with the LS coils....but it rained here and my imagination is fertile.
IGN1A is the preferred coil but somewhat pricey
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Is there another type of coil being used as well? Somewhere in the back of my mind, I keep thinking I have heard of a problem with the LS coils....but it rained here and my imagination is fertile.
IGN1A is the preferred coil but somewhat pricey
So who makes real 1A coils? Looks like they originated from Mercury Marine?
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I think the Mercury Marine are the real ones...and then there are the clones...I'm thinking this is an awfully expensive way to go if you are making less than 700 hp
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I think the Mercury Marine are the real ones...and then there are the clones...I'm thinking this is an awfully expensive way to go if you are making less than 700 hp
I'll continue to use the LS coils
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Delco coils Jason?
The ING require a different harness correct?
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Delco coils Jason?
The ING require a different harness correct?
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Yes sir. Delco coils. As far as I know and I could be wrong there is no need to change the harness for the IGN1A coils
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well its back... what ever my problem is its not my ground or module I have a stock known good in it now. I checked the fuel pressure it seems good rises with boost, the symptoms pointed to ignition if I launch it hard once I get to about 4000 rpm 19, 20 psi it falls flat. All the intercooler hoses are tight and it drives great under normal driving conditions no codes and my logs look fine no knock fueling is good. I'm gonna swap out the crank sensor see if its giving me grief and make sure the balancer is tight.
any other suggestions?
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broken valve spring?
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Are you blowing out the spark?
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Well it’s not the crank sensor.
I’m gonna pull all the plugs and check them and give it a compression test.
The valve train sounds fine the spring where new this winter Comp 941
It’s like it hits a rev limiter at 4000 rpm I stayed into it a bit just started to lose steam. Hitting on 4 out of 6 holes.
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Ohm out the wires while you're checking stuff
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did you send it into Bob?
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Bob has the TR6 I have borrowed a known good stock set up.
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Ok so compression is with in 5lbs around 130 plugs all look good
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What's your voltage?
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14 on the logs
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put an old chip in it 5.7 I think burned with 25 degrees of timing turned it down to 17 PSI on a preliminary test hit it seemed fine but was very fat. I will tune it a bit and let you know how I make out.
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so I pulled some timing and added boost to lean it out, seems to be working great a couple hits from a dig and its ripping must have gotten some moisture in the computer or the chip somehow. I have relocated the computer and positioned it to avoid this in the future.
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sounds like some progress to me!