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Messages - Ineedagn

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1
Transmissions / Re: Trans dipstick ID thread
« on: January 31 2023, 12:27:14 AM »
Thank you!

2
Transmissions / Re: Trans dipstick ID thread
« on: January 22 2023, 01:03:49 PM »
If you don’t mind adding them to the vortex site I’d send people that direction as this site requires login to view the pics and Facebook is, well, Facebook.   

Also, proud to announce that I have completed the research on a COMPLETE 200-4r code and application guide that I need to sit here and type out.  Along with pics of every year tag.  That’ll get some traffic over the years

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Transmissions / Re: Trans dipstick ID thread
« on: January 22 2023, 12:56:20 PM »
I actually don’t know.   What I CAN tell you is that this threw me for one hell of a loop and deep dive into the parts books to sort it out.   Last year I got tired of my pile of dipstick tubes and TV cables being a bunch of mystery origins so I got together with a couple friends that had their own collections and we threw a sort and label party.   This 1990 caddy unit was one of the few that was labeled on disassembly, and when I started verifying fill levels I noticed this one was different than ALL the others.   Parts books show it as a mid 89 and 90 only and they show a Chevrolet tube part number that uses the same late stick that’s pictured above.   Most won’t ever run into this as these things were being heavily phased out by mid 89.   Kind of an oddity.  Same unit had a speed sensor that I’ve never seen before or since.   It’s not a TTA sensor either it’s unique to a late late caddy with digital dash and no mechanical cable pass thru provision.

4
Transmissions / Trans dipstick ID thread
« on: January 21 2023, 10:45:48 PM »
I posted these to Fakebook about a year ago and realized they need to be somewhere better.   

Feel free to post these on Vortexbuicks or literally anywhere

Only real thing to note is that the factory seems to have altered the full level mid year 1989 and started under filling the units by about 1.5 pints.   I assume (but don’t know) that the bean counters realized that by 89 these things were only being installed in land barges that can’t launch fast and have no risk of fluid slosh causing cavitation.   I do not have a pic of the mid-89 and 90 reduced level Chevy stick and tube but I’m sure you can figure it out from the pics.   Should have the same dipstick handle and part number as the BOP one pictured.   Enjoy

5
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: July 02 2021, 08:18:05 PM »
If I update the bushing section of this guide can it be edited?

Got some new juicy deets to share with the world

6
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: March 15 2021, 02:52:00 PM »
Originally there was something to insert back in the original post.   I later fixed it but left that note in there on purpose as a nod to Gil Younger at Transgo.   He used to put shit like that in his shift kit instructions and it made me chuckle so I left it there when I retyped it.    You can delete it lol

7
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: March 15 2021, 10:42:43 AM »
As of right now I’m only seeing the second half of the info on your site.   Is there a separate link for page 1 or something?

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Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: March 15 2021, 02:20:21 AM »
Thank you for putting in the work for your site.  Sounds like a pain in the ass on your end also. 
Looks good so far.

If I’d known what I was in for from the start, this write up wouldn’t exist. 

Side note.  Working on some updated info on the pump bushing selection.  I actually found the original manufacturer of the bushings and they’re for sure the same company making the white ones. Looking into the black split ones.  Etc etc. 


I’m currently balls deep in playing around with hydraulic lockup and if I ever get it all sorted out that’ll be the next write up.   Not many seem to be playing with it.   Oem parts are scarce

9
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: January 15 2021, 09:51:33 AM »
Actually wasn’t pissed at all when the forum hack or whatever the hell happened, happened.  It sounds like it’s a wonder they even had the text backed up.  Lots of good information there no matter what anyone thinks of the board.  But I couldn’t edit the posts.   My pleas to allow post editing to fix it fell on deaf ears.  I know everyone’s busy, life priorities higher than a damn bulletin board etc etc but if I have to start from scratch, I’ll do it somewhere else.  It’s nice to have it hosted in multiple places anyway and I did update several parts of the text. 

10
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: January 14 2021, 12:55:45 PM »
Gimme a few days though.  I’ve already made a couple minor edits and might make a couple more

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Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: January 14 2021, 12:37:34 PM »
^^^^what he said^^^^

12
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: January 14 2021, 01:10:11 AM »
Well, there you have it folks.  I'd like to thank the owner of this forum for hosting it and if it ends up on the Vortex Buicks site I'd like to thank him too.  I'll add any future edits or info in this post if anything turns up and I'm still allowed to edit it.  Until next time...


13
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: January 14 2021, 01:02:28 AM »
Place the stator side of the pump onto the body side. Rotate it so all 5 bolt holes line up (only lines up one way) Pick up the body and finger tighten all 5 bolts. The two halves must be perfectly aligned before torquing. You can buy the factory tool, or you can use a $4 large hose clamp as an alignment band. You can also use several smaller hose clamps linked together. Some even drop the pump upside down into the empty trans case for alignment.

While you're doing it, you might as well line up that drainback hole you took the time to enlarge. Photo shows the correct position of the alignment band around both halves. Torque the 5 bolts to 18-20 ft-lbs. and remove the alignment clamp.

Install the new o-ring around the outside, making sure it's not twisted and the painted side is out. When installing into the trans, don't forget to stick the mickey mouse washer to the back of it and don't forget the small pump screen filter. And that, as Smokey Yunick would say, is a race ready part!

14
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: January 14 2021, 12:56:56 AM »
Stick the rotor guide to the rotor with some transjel or vaseline. Then stick one of the transgo pump rings to that. Then flip the rotor over and install into the housing.

When you install the pump vanes, pay attention to the direction, and if they are used vanes, install them so the side that originally contacted the rings continues to do so. (side with two shiny flats goes inward). May have to rotate the rotor as you do this to get the lower ring moved into a favorable angle to allow them all to fit. Then you install the top ring. Then lube the assembly.


15
Transmissions / Re: How to: Freshen your 200-4r pump
« on: January 14 2021, 12:42:06 AM »
You will need to purchase a transgo 700-pkh hardened ring/spring kit. They're cheap. You need the slide spring out of this kit at this time.

Instructions say to crunch it in a vise once before install and the spring will take a set. Who am I to argue?

If your pump came with one, or if you can procure one, use the stock inner spring with the transgo outer. This is more important with higher rpm engines. If you want to deviate from this setup, Steve V graciously did some recent testing of different spring/spacer stackups at both min and max slide positions and posted his findings.  Here's a cut and paste of the raw data:

Stock BRF dual spring
@1.5 = 28.2lbs w/sonnax spacer 39.2lbs
@1.225= 54.6lbs w/sonnax 65.8lbs

NOYOYO spring 5500 rpm kit
@1.5 = 19.8lb w/sonnax 34.8lbs
@2.225 =62.6lbs w/sonnax 80.4lbs

NOYOYO w/ BRF inner spring
@1.5 = 26.8lbs w/sonnax 47.6lbs
@1.225= 77.8 w/sonnax 97.8lbs

 The short version: Higher RPM needs higher spring pressure to counteract inertia/centrifugal force. Do some searching if you want to go full nerd about it. Note that I've personally never assembled one with the "full boogie" 97.8 LBS combo but it does fit in the cavity.

Some prefer to put both springs into a bench vise and compress them and then carefully slide them into place. I use a screwdriver and a cuss word or two. If you place them down against the housing and force them in on the slide side, you won't burr up the nicely decked housing you created earlier.

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