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Those fuel lines connections can be a whore...they'll wanna spin the line. Spray the fuck out of them with WD-40 24 hours in advance...and use the proper line wrenches. If it wants to spin the line spray it with WD-40 and wait. This ain't your DD so take your time.
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General Buick Tech / Re: Update on future build
« Last post by Scoobum on Today at 06:23:38 AM »
The turbo drain line is definitely leaking. That's my next hurdle to clear up. Smh. I switched over to studs which makes the job a little easier but the leak is still present. The drain hose I'm certain I can address.

If you're using a cool guy return line...don't. The stocker is ribbed for a reason. Patrick Rubio can tell you why. Jason may have return line gaskets.
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General Buick Tech / Re: Fuel tank and pump, electrolysis on tank? New pump?
« Last post by Scoobum on April 25 2024, 02:46:56 PM »
That rust is gonna be everywhere. Swap in a new fuel filter. I'd pull the injectors and have them cleaned.
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General Buick Tech / Re: Update on future build
« Last post by Steve Wood on April 25 2024, 01:54:41 PM »
yes, they are
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General Buick Tech / Re: Update on future build
« Last post by phil_long on April 25 2024, 12:44:35 PM »
Those RJC gaskets are really nice. I might try those actually after the retorque
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General Buick Tech / Re: Update on future build
« Last post by phil_long on April 25 2024, 12:41:34 PM »
The turbo drain line is definitely leaking. That's my next hurdle to clear up. Smh. I switched over to studs which makes the job a little easier but the leak is still present. The drain hose I'm certain I can address.
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General Buick Tech / Re: Fuel tank and pump, electrolysis on tank? New pump?
« Last post by nocooler on April 25 2024, 11:48:46 AM »
I would replace the old rubber with a quality rubber high-pressure fuel line. You can buy it by the foot at parts stores. Get the correct clamps as well and you won't have problems.
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General Buick Tech / Re: Fuel tank and pump, electrolysis on tank? New pump?
« Last post by slojim on April 25 2024, 10:32:26 AM »
for all my plans of limiting $ until I can get it started, looks like I'm headed down that road.  I took a hard look at the hanger/sender - it's serviceable, but there's rust up in the tube that I can't get to.  So I'll be replacing that - looking like the racetronix 255 G7 sender assembly.  My bigger problem is the tank.  RockAuto has them for $165 shipped - but they have confirmed to me that they can't confirm I'll get what I order, and I'll be responsible for shipping back EVEN IF it isn't properly baffled.  Lot's of people have them for $240 plus shipping.  It looks like O-Reilly can get one today but it's in a warehouse so I can't look at it, Autozone has one an hour away, and PartCatalog in Austin has 10 on the shelf - and I may be driving to Austin in a few weeks anyway.  I'm calling OReilly

For posterity sake - I'll note this here about fuel lines.  I considered whether I should replace the rubber lines over the tank with SS braided teflon since the rubbers are out of stock currently, or even upsize the return line - and saw a lot of discussion on conductive vs non-conductive liners, and a lot of opinions on whether it was worth it or not based on experience or risk tolerance.  But I looked up the manufacturer spec sheet, and they suggested it for applications over 2 meters/sec flow of flammable liquids.  In a 5/16 ID line like AN6 sized, that is a hair over 340LPH - that explains to me why there are different experiences - most folks are not flowing that much, but many are. 
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General Buick Tech / Re: Update on future build
« Last post by xracerx13 on April 24 2024, 11:10:43 PM »
I used Jason's (RJC) thicker valve cover gaskets and they worked for me. Especially for the drivers side.
https://rjcracing.com/product/valve-cover-gaskets/
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General Buick Tech / Re: Update on future build
« Last post by Steve Wood on April 24 2024, 11:10:31 PM »
Factory says 44 lbs-inch which is a very small amount.

It works though. Using cork gaskets, I would glue the gaskets to the head (but not to the valve cover) with RTV and then torque them down to the 44 inch lbs setting using an inch lbs wrench.  Let them set for 12 hrs, or so, and then retorque to the same setting.

Then crank the engine and let it get hot.  Turn it off, let it cool down and retorque again. Check them every day or so for a few days. Should work.

Be sure the ends of the intake are not leaking analso the turbo drain line at both ends.

And the fitting into the block where the sending unit (or gauge) for the oil pressure screws into the block
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