IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Shimy87 on June 26 2020, 06:29:03 PM
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Getting ready for the track tomorrow and after the test drive my radiator sprung a leak. It's a pinhole leak up by where the upper hose comes out. Can these radiators be repaired would I be better off getting a replacement. If they can be replaced where is a good place to find a replacement. Better it happened here at home then after a 2-hour drive to the track but still a pain in the ass.
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If you can find a radiator shop they can be repaired. At this age, i would replace it
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I can get a replacement from rock auto for 165. An aluminum one from OPGI for 245 or another aluminum one from g body for 459....recomen dations?? I don't know anything about radiators
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Cheapass Camaro rad and trans cooler.
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Spectra radiator CU162 is very similar to the Camaro but it’s inlet and outlet same size and location as OEM
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Getting an all aluminum one from rock auto, 200 with new hoses
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New radiator is coming in today old radiator has tranny cooler built into the radiator and then there's an aftermarket cooler strapped to the front of it for engine oil new radiator has Provisions it appears that I can put the engine oil through the new radiator and the same connections for the tranny oil. Should I retain the engine oil cooler or plumb into the new radiator....wh ich would cool better
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Not sure I understand what the new radiator comes with, but, if it has both coolers in it, I would route the transmission oil thru the cooler in the radiator, on to the external cooler in front of the radiator and then back to the transmission.
The line coming from the transmission would go to the lower fitting on the tranny cooler in the radiator, then the top fitting would go to the lower fitting on the external cooler, and the top fitting back to the transmission. I think this will best push out or eliminate trapped air in both coolers.
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Thanks for the info I get what you're saying. I attached a picture do I leave the black plastic plug in there or should I replace that with a metal one?
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I assume the black plugs are to close off one of the coolers if you don't use it?
You are going to use both the transmission cooler and the engine oil cooler as I understand it. So you would remove the appropriate plugs and replace them with fittings that fit your oil cooler lines or transmission lines.
Your transmission line from the tranny will go to the lower fitting on the radiator. then the top fitting for that cooler goes to the lower fitting of the external cooler. And the top fitting of the external cooler will connect to the return line going back to the tranny.
Obviously, we have to use some rubber line to go from the radiator cooler outlet line to the external cooler and from the external cooler outlet to the return transmission line.
(Unless you like to go to the effort to use steel braided hose or the push loc type hoses.
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BTW, a lot of us don't use the engine oil cooler at all. We just remove the adapter plate behind the filter and do without....
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Thanks Steve!
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The lower coolant outlet came with a rubber sleeve on it, upper one didn't, do I leave it on or remove it???
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I am sure you need to remove it
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Well I got the radiator swapped in. No leaks, it's a miracle!! took it out for a test drive it's hotter than hell here today before when I ran the air conditioning the temp always climbed up to about 185 but now she stayed right at 160. Very pleased :rock:
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That's good! I saw some idiots on FB commenting.lol
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Shimy Steve- Which one, I see a few on Rock? part num?
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Part # 8010683
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I think '8010683' (https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/apdi/pro,8010683,radiator,2172) is a plastic tanker
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You only have to read the description to stop thinking!
Cannot trust that plastic stuff that they have been using on new cars for 25 years. I mean, I just pulled a 22 year old unit off my Miata because I was afraid it might not work forever.
On a more serious note, when the plastic starts changing color after 20 years or so, it might be wise to conduct some preventative maintenance and put a new one in.
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guessing he ordered 162AA3R or 571AA3R?
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I'm guessing he ordered the number I posted above which I took from FB...but, I am sure he will tell us :)
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That plastic tank units I've put in my trucks rarely want more than a yr before the seal at the plastic was leaking again. The original gm stuff does go a long time, but the replacements not so much. Went to aluminum eBay unit and no prob in six yrs or so. But this was for the trucks.
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Rock auto 162AA3R, all aluminum....th e picture is misleading, only one cooler internal, the other ports are just openings into the tank. I just looped the engine oil cooling hoses together. Ran tranny cooler the way Steve said.
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Sorry Dave! I looked at the wrong pic, I guess.
Don't let anyone tell you to block off those two hoses. If you do, you will cut off most of the oil flow thru the engine. Either keep them connected together, or remove the filter, unscrew the fitting that the filter screws on to, and then remove the oil cooler adapter plate, and screw the filter back on to the stub that the removed fitting screwed onto.
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Got lucky, I had a hell of a time getting a coupler to connect them and was considering capping them! I wanted to keep them though as I may add another cooler back in.
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It might be wise to replace the hoses with pushloc style from Earl's or such when you do that. Be easier and less likely to pop out of the crimped on connectors. I have not had an oil cooler on my gn in 20 years, tho.
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Looks like I'm going to order one since my stocker & 160 stat are getting too hot in traffic now even after I cleaned it out. It's looks like a nice rad for the $$ except I pay Canadian $330 after $45 shipping plus $40 HST Oh well nothing new when buying car parts up here!
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Hi there would you happen to have part number from rock auto? did it in fact have both coolers in it?
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I missed the Fed Ex guy today so it's coming tomorrow. Part number is the same as was posted 162AA3R $200 US
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It has a trans cooler but its on the engine side & the fitting narrows down inside the rad. I think the stocker is like that but I'm not sure I'll check when I swap them. The other 2 holes are supplied with hard plastic plugs & include Teflon tape on them from the factory but they just go directly into the rad itself so water only for them.
All 4 holes use the same size plug so I'll find a couple more to seal off the trans cooler so it stays clean inside. I'll probably grab some brass ones since It's polished up nice it should look pretty decent.
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I just looped the engine oil cooling hoses together.
Don't do that. Remove the oil filter, remove the nut, and then take the sammich adapter off. The filter will screw directly onto the oil filter adapter.
If you ever decide to run an oil cooler again, get a biggie adapter and put the sammich adapter back on.
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My GN was running a little hot after sitting 2 years, so I just installed a GN1 Radiator and can use some help please. I cannot find any fittings that can mate into the GN1 Engine side ports, which GN1 tells me were designed for the Engine Oil Cooler. I use a remote engine oil cooler in front of the condenser and plan to leave it as is. I want to use these ports for Trans oil.
I am trying to just replace the radiator, as I feed my TOC line into the engine side radiator port and then to an aux cooler, also in front of the condenser, and then back to the radiator as Steve mentioned in a previous post.
My problem is I cannot find any adaptors or fittings that mate to the GN1 engine side radiator ports. GN1 tells me these ports are “3/4” inverted flare”. Speaking with Cold Case, it looks like I need a 5/16” inverted flare female to mate to the trans lines which I believe are 1/2”-20 threads, to a 1/2” inverted flare male (3/4”-18 thread) to match up with the GN1 radiator. Anyone have this issue and know where I can get any fittings or adaptors to mate into the GN1 radiator ports? I’ve been to several auto, hardware, hydraulic supply stores and searched on-line with no such luck. The AN, NPT and different fitting nomenclature can be confusing me.
If I can find anything that mates in the GN1 ports, I can try to get 1 or 2 fittings to mate up the the TOC line...
Too bad did not see this post earlier, or I may have gone with the Rock Auto radiator. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
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Let's start out with what kind of hose/line/fittings do you want to use? Rubber hose and barbs, pushloc style, regular AN, PTFE, hard-line?
Plenty of options to get the job done.
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Thanks nocooler. Any option that leads me to the parts needed to utilize the winging side in-radiator cooler and my aux cooler.
My preference would be a barbed fitting for the top port on the radiator that I can attach a hose to which will then attach to my aux cooler nipple. Then a 2nd brass fitting/flare or adaptor that threads into the radiator bottom port to attach one of the OEM TOC lines to. (A 2nd rubber hose attaches to the aux cooler back to the other OEM TOC line completing the circuit).
This would replicate what I had with my prior radiator. I just can’t find anything that will thread into the GN1 radiator. Im open to other options you mentioned with AN fittings or push locks...
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Unless you're running the Bonneville Salt Flats or oval track racing...the oil cooler is useless...ditc h it. Hook up a good trans cooler and call it a day.
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I hear you Scoobum but the aux oil cooler is already installed. Im just trying to hook up my trans coolers.
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Scoob is saying to ignore the cooler in the radiator and just use the external trans cooler.
https://hosewarehouse.com/products/290-0812-Dixon-Brass-Male-SAE-Inverted-Flare-Push-on-Hose-Barb-Fitting-1-2-Hose-ID-3-4-18-UNF4944-Thread (https://hosewarehouse.com/products/290-0812-Dixon-Brass-Male-SAE-Inverted-Flare-Push-on-Hose-Barb-Fitting-1-2-Hose-ID-3-4-18-UNF4944-Thread)
https://fastfittings.com/products/brass-push-on-hose-barb-inverted-flare-male-swivel-fitting?variant=8944287711321 (https://fastfittings.com/products/brass-push-on-hose-barb-inverted-flare-male-swivel-fitting?variant=8944287711321)
https://hosewarehouse.com/products/4740-8b-male-sae-45-degree-inverted-flare-socketless-fitting-brass-equal-to-fbm1213-fcm1213 (https://hosewarehouse.com/products/4740-8b-male-sae-45-degree-inverted-flare-socketless-fitting-brass-equal-to-fbm1213-fcm1213)
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hose-ends/hose-end-size/minus-8-an/adapter-size/3-4-18-in-inverted-flare (https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hose-ends/hose-end-size/minus-8-an/adapter-size/3-4-18-in-inverted-flare)
The inverted flare makes it pretty hard to find much.
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Thank you so much nocooler! Parts now on order.