Quick and Simple ?

[Steve Wood]

well, change the fuel filter first....

What was the fuel pressure with the hose off the regulator and the engine idling?

Stock regulator, or adjustable?

[phil_long]

Its adjustable, but i believe its the stock one.  the fp line on is 44 lbs right now, and line off it goes up to about 50lbs. 

[phil_long]

this is after the change of the fuel filter

[phil_long]

still seems kind of high tho.  i reset the ECM, but the blms still jump to 150 after idling for about 5 min

[Steve Wood]

something is not right, but, first take the line off and lower the fuel pressure to 43

Then, when it is warm, tell us the maf number, O2s and the blms?

Also, the vacuum in Park.

If the blms are high and the o2s are low, then I guess it is time to look for a leak?

[phil_long]

Will do. And, one thing i will share for sure, is that i KNOW i have exhaust leak somehwere. My intent was to take the car to a shop and get the leaks welded up. Also would like to note that my exhaust is knocking againt the frame of the vehicle. All these problems were to be tightened up this morning, but i tackled the fuel filter issue. I will keep you all posted. My next step, lower the FP to 43 line off. Thanks

[Steve Wood]

If the exhaust leak is before the turbo, that will cause high blms

You did pretty good if you got that filter off! 

[phil_long]

Thanks!! I was expecting the worse for sure. Also note that the injectors are stock, so is the wiring to the fuel pump. Again, all things im addressing. The car runs better now, but i havent went full throttle due to the state of everything. And the car doesnt wanna pull any harder after about 5-6 lbs of boost anyway.

[Steve Wood]

If the fuel pressure does not rise one for one when the boost comes on, then the car is going to lean out....if it does not after the filter was changed, then you are going to need a pump and a hot wire.

[phil_long]

Lowered the FP, reset ECM. After car warms up, BLM is 150. 02 bounces between 105-110. Maf reads at 7.

[phil_long]

And vacuum bouncing between 13-16. Car is running rough and idling up and down. Tps is set at .44

[Steve Wood]

almost sounds like your fp gauge is not reading properly

What is the idle rpm?

You may have to go into the translator box and add some fuel to the idle.

Are the dip switches in the translator set to on, on, on, off?

Are you running a TT chip, or a stock chip?

[phil_long]

the rpms was bouncing between 650 and 875.  Im running a stock chip.  The dip switches on the translator is set just as you stated, on on on off. the car is also cutting out when i rev it up in park.  I was reading another thread on here of a guy having the same issue, so i was just peeking in that thread every now and then and did things you guys suggested, which is why i changed the fuel filter.  I wanted to avoid two of the same threads going on at once.

[Steve Wood]

If you raise the fuel pressure  to 48 (hose off), does the vacuum get steadier and the idle smoother?

[Steve Wood]

I don't see any real relationship between your problems and the other thread.

For some reason, your car is acting very lean.  If the fuel pressure gauge is reading right, then there would appear to be a big leak someplace.  Also, the vacuum should be up around 17 or so, and steady...this could be a big leak, or a missing cylinder.  The idle should be steady around 750 rpm...faster is often a leak.  Make sure the IACS are something like 10-30 warm idle in Park, and they jump up when you put it in drive.

take some time and inspect the hose between the maf and turbo for any holes or leaks at the connections.  Make sure the hose are on properly and tight on the intercooler and throttle body.  Make sure the vacuum block on top of the plenum is on tight, and not leaking.  Check the pcv valve and make sure it is closing properly and is not hanging open to create a big leak.  Check all the other vacuum hoses to be sure they are on the block tight and are not broken elsewhere.

Check the egr valve (when it is cold) to make sure it will lift up and pop back down when you move it with your fingers.

If all seems well, crank it up, let it warm up a bit, then while idling, disconnect one injector at a time and see if the engine slows down each time one is disconnected as it should when that cylinder stops getting fuel.