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Messages - IL KIM
16
« on: January 05 2021, 12:27:01 PM »
Thanks Steve. Can’t find one for 86 Regal V8 online at Advanced but an AC Delco part is $27.00. I was surprised they run that much. Time to contact my eBay seller for advice. Hope he comes through.
18
« on: December 28 2020, 02:33:23 PM »
My thoughts as well. Hope the booster is good.
Now I gotta figure out what car and year this check valve is for..... maybe they will be on a parts help rack.
19
« on: December 27 2020, 06:48:36 PM »
Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas.
Thanks for the link Steve. Good article and video link. I pasted in the Booster tests and what the results were below.
Brake Booster Test 1
With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster.
Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4″, this indicates that the booster is working properly.
Result: The pedal drops way more than 1/4”; maybe all the way to the floor. Test 1 passed as 1/4” is a minimum?
Brake Booster Test 2
Run the engine a couple of minutes.
Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster.
Result: The 1st pump does go low easily. The 2nd pump is firm from beginning of stroke and pedal remains fairly high. 3rd is same as 2nd. I think test 2 passed with 1 stroke of assisted pedal?
Brake Booster Test 3
Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.
Result: after a couple seconds, the pedal starts Rising instead of holding. It pushes back on my foot with firm/pressure raising pedal to nondepressed position. Test 3 failed; air entering mc side of booster while booster valve is closed. Maybe check valve is bad?
Inspect the Check Valve
Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced.
Results: Not sure if I do this test after engine off and pumping brake a few times to remove residual air or not. First test: I could blow into the hose and the booster indicating bad check valve. I cannot seem to repeat this result. Subsequent trials: I can suck (hard to do) a little bit of air and then when I cover the hole with my tongue - the suction from the booster side will keep my tongue stuck there. When I remove my tongue the booster sucks air in. I heard a moan twice. Test failed.
I then took the check valve out of the booster and left the hose on it. I can easily blow through the rear (pedal) side of the valve or suck through the hose; That’s good. However I can also suck air from the rear of the valve if I suck lightly or blow air through the hose lightly. Confirms bad check valve.
So do you guys think is the check valve bad and what about the booster itself?
Note: Engine vacuum was checked with a gage is steady 15 at warm idle.
20
« on: December 24 2020, 10:17:49 AM »
Are the bleeders on the top side of the calipers?
Yes the bleeders are at the top rear of the calipers. Why do you ask?
21
« on: December 23 2020, 05:12:42 PM »
Thanks Steve. The saga continues. I’ll find a vacuum gage and also test out the booster.
I drilled the hole 1” below the EOM pin.
22
« on: December 23 2020, 08:08:33 AM »
Oh boy. Thanks Steve. How go I test test the booster or check valve? Could the issue be not enough vacuum with the tee hose teed off the pvc hose?
When this is fixed, what would I see - will the force or speed of depressing the pedal be less and quicker?
23
« on: December 22 2020, 08:33:01 PM »
Hello. Thought I would provide an update on my vacuum conversion saga. The Cardone master cylinder leaked out the back between the mc and painted booster as evidenced by attached pic. I got another Cardone 10-1926 from Amazon, again bench bled it and installed it. The 2 mc’s looked a little different in reservoir color and cap texture and cap tightness and the 2nd one allows better gravity flow to the rear brake port. Guess Cardone rebuilds any mc sent back to them.
The Chinese brass proportioning valve I got from eBay did not allow the brake light on the dash to go off. I had used the bleeder tool in place on the switch so I know I did it trip the valve but the light would not go out. I tried leaving a front bleeder screw open and slowly depressing the pedal to get the valve to shift. Also tried hard pedals but light always stayed on. Tried clamping the metering valve pin in while bleeding rear brakes and still no success with the light. Using a continuity test, I believe the switch was bad as it is made when bearly depressed. I could get the light to go off for a split second, in car, at the end of pedal apply when rebleeding the front corners (Key on/engine off test). So I replaced the prop valve with a different Chinese (Kipa PV2) valve, rebled the system and the light stays off! Must’ve gone through over 72 Oz of Dot 4 fluid. Gotta love quick Amazon deliveries.
I tested the GN in my driveway today as it was dry out. Brakes feel good but seem less effective then the Powermaster. Trying a panic stop From ~35mph the fronts do lock up when close to full stop, but really have to press hard. Is this typical of the vacuum setup? Also while idling and pressing the brakes, the idle goes up slightly on apply and also when I release the pedal. Is this normal?
Just driving this in the driveway felt great, and reminds me why I still own this torque beast! Puts a smile on my face every time.
And a shout out to Earl for all his help with this. Thank you!
24
« on: December 22 2020, 07:14:10 PM »
Thanks Scoobum for trying but still can’t get in. Can you see the PM from me?
I got a brand new Powermaster Accumulator I’d like to post there for sale and was hoping you could provide email contact so I can try asking for password reset help myself. Thanks again.
25
« on: December 21 2020, 12:52:09 PM »
It’ll be worth it and you’ll love it in the end. Sounds like you’re doing it right once! Good luck.
26
« on: December 12 2020, 07:34:02 PM »
Thanks Scoobum.
27
« on: December 12 2020, 11:06:52 AM »
Name is IL KIM and email address is ilkim1@charter.net Thanks for doing this! 
28
« on: December 11 2020, 10:32:24 PM »
Anyone know how I can get my password reset on Turbobuick.com? Every time I try the site says it sent me an email to reset it and I never get one. And no it’s not being routed to a junk mail folder.
29
« on: December 09 2020, 09:15:12 AM »
Funny, I just had a 22kw installed and am sitting here waiting for the contractor to come start it up for the 1st time, after Mechanical Final inspection passed on Monday. $10,000 for purchase and installation for your comparison needs. Good luck. We’re tired of being the last ones to regain power whenever it goes out and seems to go out more nowadays compared to years past.
30
« on: December 04 2020, 07:09:02 AM »
Jeremy, looking good. Thoughts for you to consider on the work area sketch. Is the concrete floor level or will it be on a slight grade? May want to raise the bottom shelving off the concrete to allow you to make it level and also allow room for your toes while using the 2nd level, or just to allow for sweeping/vacuuming the floor.
If you want want it on the floor you may not need all those cross-joists - maybe one in the middle going opposite direction to save on wood costs. Anyway, Like said by others, build it the way you want it and build it to last.
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