IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: SuperSix on November 20 2019, 04:23:49 PM
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What is it's function? Is that the component that cuts current to the motor once it reaches the end of travel? If I want to increase the voltage and current to the motor to speed them up, would I have to use a higher value breaker?
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I would be interested to know if it actually trips. 30A isn't it? The current should go up whey you stall but maybe the motor design limits the current somehow. You may not draw significantly more current with a higher voltage. I'm guessing the windoturboenca bulator has its own protection or do you stick the breaker into the unit?
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I seem to remember there's a temperature circuit breaker inside the motor.. I need to do some more research.
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Bimetal is cheap so most likely
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There is a thermal switch in the window motor itself - I assume that's what stops the power once the windows reach the end of their travel. Couldn't find a schematic, but it's shown in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoVAdBW66Xg
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IIRC Gary K published bypassing that contact set and put a fuse in series instead, claimed it worked better . maybe those contacts degrade?
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I think it's voltage drop to the motors that causes the issue, and a poor design. Seems the fix is more power, but the modules available to fix it are way too expensive for what they are. They sell for $149+, I can build a nice one for ~$35.00.
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Are you looking at the manual?
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I went down the same path a while ago, bought some boost converter to try but that project has not floated up to the top of my pile.
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The circuit breaker in the fuse panel is just a "fuse". It also powers the sun roof.
Each window motor also has a breaker in it in case a window gets stuck or tries to keep running once open or closed.
The Pink wire supplies power to the switches and I think this is where "low Power" problems occur. One could run power straight from the battery via a relay and trigger it with the pink wire coming from the fuse panel breaker. The out power side of the relay would go to the switches where the pink wire attaches. That is my thought after looking at the diagram.
If one could boost the power a volt or two from the battery or alternator, that would be even better.
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AFAIK the windoturboenca bulator just inserts into the breaker's position thus having a 12v supply for itself and connection to the downstream motors. and you add a good ground, A step up switching supply guessing 19-24V, maybe with some build in current limiting to protect itself.
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The "Windowracer" is just a DC > DC booster, from what I have read the motors can take up to 20v and a few more amps. That's all it is, but a very expensive one. I already have an 8 or 10ga wire running into the car , I will back feed the circuit breaker and see if it helps. If not, I will make my own booster and share the info.
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The asian specs are so exaggerated -best just buy one of the biggest ones
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There's units that output 10A, way more than enough, for ~$17 or so...
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I think the 30A breaker suggests it should be rated more than 10A - and is that a real 10A