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« Last post by slojim on Today at 10:32:26 AM »
for all my plans of limiting $ until I can get it started, looks like I'm headed down that road. I took a hard look at the hanger/sender - it's serviceable, but there's rust up in the tube that I can't get to. So I'll be replacing that - looking like the racetronix 255 G7 sender assembly. My bigger problem is the tank. RockAuto has them for $165 shipped - but they have confirmed to me that they can't confirm I'll get what I order, and I'll be responsible for shipping back EVEN IF it isn't properly baffled. Lot's of people have them for $240 plus shipping. It looks like O-Reilly can get one today but it's in a warehouse so I can't look at it, Autozone has one an hour away, and PartCatalog in Austin has 10 on the shelf - and I may be driving to Austin in a few weeks anyway. I'm calling OReilly
For posterity sake - I'll note this here about fuel lines. I considered whether I should replace the rubber lines over the tank with SS braided teflon since the rubbers are out of stock currently, or even upsize the return line - and saw a lot of discussion on conductive vs non-conductive liners, and a lot of opinions on whether it was worth it or not based on experience or risk tolerance. But I looked up the manufacturer spec sheet, and they suggested it for applications over 2 meters/sec flow of flammable liquids. In a 5/16 ID line like AN6 sized, that is a hair over 340LPH - that explains to me why there are different experiences - most folks are not flowing that much, but many are.
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« Last post by xracerx13 on April 24 2024, 11:10:43 PM »
I used Jason's (RJC) thicker valve cover gaskets and they worked for me. Especially for the drivers side. https://rjcracing.com/product/valve-cover-gaskets/
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« Last post by Steve Wood on April 24 2024, 11:10:31 PM »
Factory says 44 lbs-inch which is a very small amount.
It works though. Using cork gaskets, I would glue the gaskets to the head (but not to the valve cover) with RTV and then torque them down to the 44 inch lbs setting using an inch lbs wrench. Let them set for 12 hrs, or so, and then retorque to the same setting.
Then crank the engine and let it get hot. Turn it off, let it cool down and retorque again. Check them every day or so for a few days. Should work.
Be sure the ends of the intake are not leaking analso the turbo drain line at both ends.
And the fitting into the block where the sending unit (or gauge) for the oil pressure screws into the block
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« Last post by phil_long on April 24 2024, 03:12:06 PM »
In that case I wont use that stuff until after the required retorque of the heads Lol. Thank you for the advice! I got the tranny cooler mounted and wired up. No leaks, so I'm happy about that. I'm a little bummed out about my shifter cable and I'm having to shift the gears through the column again. I guess I'll order another one
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« Last post by Scoobum on April 24 2024, 05:01:05 AM »
Phil, if you can't get the oil leak stopped, you can use the Right Stuff. I had the same problem and I tried every fukn gasket on the planet. Be prepared to use a crow bar to get the rocker covers off though.
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« Last post by Scoobum on April 24 2024, 04:58:36 AM »
I you wanna run a cheap pump, then I have videos on how to change head gaskets.
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« Last post by slojim on April 23 2024, 04:53:07 PM »
and the results - look a lot like the before pics. as I said, the orange stain is gone, and I dumped out a lot of rust - covered the bottom easily of a 5 gallon bucket.
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« Last post by slojim on April 23 2024, 04:51:08 PM »
here's a pic of my electrolysis rig. My wife was super uncomfortable I'd electrocute the dog, so I only ran it 8 hours while I could keep an eye on it. I think I used a cup and a half of washing soda in the full gas tank. I did get orange goo coming up, and I did have to replace a little bit of water.
You can't see it, but I used an old steel edger blade, due for replacement, as my sacrificial anode.
I read about flash rust - holy cow - the edger blade rusted up in like 2 minutes, well before I even had the fuel tank drained. Anyway, once I emptied it, I fogged it with WD40.
It was a neat experiment/learning - but I can't call it succesful - I probably needed to go for 2 days.
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« Last post by slojim on April 23 2024, 04:42:04 PM »
here are some before pictures of my gas tank - the phone is upside down in the hole, facing 4 different directions - so your seeing the inner roof of the tank above the plastic baffle.
The last picture is looking down in - note, this orange baffle rust stain came out during electrolysis.
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« Last post by slojim on April 23 2024, 04:33:03 PM »
I've no intention right now of running E85 - I just figured the encapsulated windings would be a little more robust and the overall construction maybe a little more corrosion-resistant to regular gas. I considered a 340, and maybe the whole sender, but I'd have to run a return line, and I don't have injectors to take advantage of the extra gas. So for now, I'm probably just going to get the walbro 255, probably the kit off of FTS. The kit is 2x the bare pump, but all those little parts fell apart when I pulled the pump. It appears the correct gas tank is at rockauto, SPECTRA PREMIUM GM307C. My electrolysis experiment took out a lot of rust, but it visually looks the same with plenty of scale, so for <$230, I guess it's time for a new one.
I am sorely tempted to get a cheap fuel pump off of rockauto - they run from $11 to $50 generally with a full install kit minus the $5 sock - I just want to start the car and see what else is needed, and when highway stars has the short rubber fuel lines in stock I''ll want to drop the tank again and replace mine - but I wouldn't be comfortable driving with an under-rated pump.
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