cam swap

[TexasT]

What cam did you go with?

[Shimy87]

206/206 from TA Performance

[Steve Wood]

A prime example of why I use a stock style chain and tensioner setup. Of course, it's not cool...and it works mint. Two reasons not to use it, I suppose.

Amen

[Shimy87]

Couldnt get a stock type set-up....no one had one in stock that I tried

[Steve Wood]

TA had none? AutoZone zilch? I would have sworn Rock would have had them

[Shimy87]

TA was out of them, they had the cam tho...Rock also struck out..didnt try the zone, did try napa and auto value here in town...no luck, Cotton performance had the comp timing set-up and the arp head bolts I needed. I saw on the other board you said you ran a double roller in your car, post was 2004. Did it give you problems? Feel like im kinda stuck with it

[Scoobum]

Got mine over the counter from some shit ass parts place around the corner from Dans shop.

[Steve Wood]

TA was out of them, they had the cam tho...Rock also struck out..didnt try the zone, did try napa and auto value here in town...no luck, Cotton performance had the comp timing set-up and the arp head bolts I needed. I saw on the other board you said you ran a double roller in your car, post was 2004. Did it give you problems? Feel like im kinda stuck with it

I run a double roller on a roller cam that has a cam sprocket that requires a double roller.  The first one stretched and was slapping the timing cover in 2000 miles.  I then bought a Roll Master which cost over a hundred bucks and so far it has been okay.

Rollmaster is one of the best chains out there and is not made in China.

Double roller chains are normally used in higher rpm engines with lots of valve spring tension...the opposite of our engines.

Many double rollers will chew up the tensioner and throw metal thru the oiling system and then they stretch and retard the cam timing as well as sometimes hitting the cover and setting off the knock sensor.

Some will argue that some chains don't chew the tensioner but I have not seen one with my own eyes that was made for our tensioners...m ight be

I sent you to TA because I know they are selling US made Johnson lifters with the hardened bases like GM originally used and not the crap that a lot of cam manufacturers sell that often do not survive the break in period.  Hopefully the more reputable cam companies are now selliing them instead of the soft based chinese junk.

I should state that I am not a vendor and don't have any reason to sell stuff that is not needed.

[Shimy87]

Guess ill call ta again tomorrow and see if they got any in yet. I dont want to have to take this apart again!!

[TexasT]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NGL1YU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470317594&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=9-1134+cloyes

I thought these were a decent set.
I bought the sealed power set off rockauto. Not in the car yet but ot was cheap.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=117881&cc=1020957&jnid=433&jpid=0

[Shimy87]

Found a Stock timing set at Car Quest, solid USA MFG, SA Gear. Price was great also!! relieved I was able to get the stock set-up!!

[Shimy87]

What should I torque the ARP head bolts to, Cottons told me 80 lbs, the ARP box says 70 lbs? Also should I use the thread sealer under the washers at the bolt head along with it the threads??

Thanks!!

[Forzfed]

Most torque the head bolts 10 over like Cotton suggested.  I wouldn't put sealant under the washer, no need as long as you have them on the threads.

[Steve Wood]

so is that 10 over using arp's thread lube, or is that using oil on the threads?

[Shimy87]

I need so use thread sealant so im assuming 80 with the thread sealant. It also says to put thread lubricant between the bolt head and washer.