Author Topic: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question  (Read 5621 times)

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Offline tb3

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energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« on: December 25 2011, 08:21:25 PM »
anybody install poly energy suspension body bushings before?
they say to torque to factory specs, our buicks are 52 foot lbs, right?
is the bottom bushings supposed to bulge out pretty good?
I've never seen the factory rubber bushings bulge out like this
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Offline SuperSix

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #1 on: December 25 2011, 08:34:00 PM »
52ft lbs seems like a lot..
'87 GN, 60lb, TA49, THDP, FTP cam, T+ lots o' shit - SOLD
'07 Ford F150 Lariat 2WD, 5.4L 3v - 255k
'20 Kubota BX2380. FEL, 60" deck
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Offline Charlief1

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #2 on: December 25 2011, 08:41:21 PM »
Sounds kinda high to me as well. Guess I'll try and find my disc and see what it says.
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Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #3 on: December 25 2011, 09:15:36 PM »
well crap! I don't have my disc manual handy. I better back these things off for right now then
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Offline SuperSix

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #4 on: December 25 2011, 10:58:51 PM »
You're right - it is 52ft/lbs.
'87 GN, 60lb, TA49, THDP, FTP cam, T+ lots o' shit - SOLD
'07 Ford F150 Lariat 2WD, 5.4L 3v - 255k
'20 Kubota BX2380. FEL, 60" deck
'78 IH/Case 184 Lo-Boy
'99 Kawasaki Bayou 400 4x4

Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #5 on: December 25 2011, 11:28:34 PM »
52 just feels way to much.

I found this link.  http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=45764

different bolt size=different torque.  and assuming "wet" means with anti seize applied?
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Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #6 on: December 25 2011, 11:30:59 PM »
I had bought new body bolts from g body parts, I'll check what size they are in the morning.
I is tired, we had Christmas yesterday, I worked on the Buick all day
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Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #7 on: December 26 2011, 01:41:15 PM »
ok, I'm all good to go. I forgot that the bottom half of these poly bushings are angled inward at the top.  I put them in about a month or so ago, but I've been waiting to tighten and torque them down until I had my rear suspension work completed and fuel tank reinstalled before I aligned the body.

instructions say to torque to factory specs or until the washer bottoms the sleeve. I bottomed the sleeve on all of them and gave them a extra German torque and am calling it good.

so basically, they where appearing "bulged" because of the sloped head on the bottom bushings.
a good nights sleep also helped.

cars coming along nice, I'll post pics sometime this week.
I'm changing th front input seal on the differential right now, and will also install my killer new alum rear end cover
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Offline SuperSix

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #8 on: December 26 2011, 02:52:46 PM »
I will be changing the front diff seal too - lemme know if you have any tips. What cover? TA?
'87 GN, 60lb, TA49, THDP, FTP cam, T+ lots o' shit - SOLD
'07 Ford F150 Lariat 2WD, 5.4L 3v - 255k
'20 Kubota BX2380. FEL, 60" deck
'78 IH/Case 184 Lo-Boy
'99 Kawasaki Bayou 400 4x4

Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #9 on: December 26 2011, 08:41:47 PM »
ta cover, but I've got couple hours of work into it.
seal is easy if you have the right basic tools.
I'll post tommorowor wed
When I'm in Rome, they do as I do

Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #10 on: December 29 2011, 10:26:14 PM »
the front diff seal has a nut with fine threads (std right hand threads).   I put some kroil on mine and let sit a few hours. 
I used a impact to remove it.  the yoke should slide right off.  If it feels stuck, it can easily be tapped from the rear on one of the "ears".
I just used a big flat head screwdriver to pry the seal out.  Be careful to not nick surfaces.
I used a machined flat plate and a hammer to tap the new seal in.
I'm a nerd so I bead blasted and painted my yoke (not the surface the seal rides on though)
I'm not sure what the torque is, but all the diff seals I've done in the past I've just tightened down till the yoke is seated, then did 2 seconds of impact on it and called it good.  The nut is a lock nut, so make sure it is still doing what its supposed to.
I am probably 3-4 months at least till my engine and trans goes back in.  so I just put the driveshaft clamps back on so I wouldn't lose them.
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Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #11 on: December 29 2011, 11:00:08 PM »
rear suspension and underneath resto work on the back is done.  and yes thats a stock sway bar.  I want to see what kind of handling and traction results I get with the new poly body bushings and greaseable poly control arm bushings, and boxed lowers. 
 
those are bilstein shocks, alum drums,  all new stainless fuel and brake lines.
 
If I wasn't confident I'll be keeping the car forever, I'd probably not have shelled out the extra money for stainless.  The car shouldn't ever see any salt roads, but what scares me is the dissasimiliar metal corrosion.  Seems to always do a number where the tube clamps bolt them to the frame. 
The stainless is harder to manage, but I have a tube bender, so if I need to tweak here and there, its no big thing.
I bought them from classic tube, and have actually bought lots of lines from them in the past, and if theres one thing I've noticed is that the bend placement is always dead-on, its just that their not always bent to the correct angle.  So spending $40 for a decent tube bender is worth it.
 
The cover is from ta performance.  I painted it and sanded the fins shiny and cleared the whole thing. 
With it being aluminum, you can't use the stock cover magnet.   
So I thought I'd use the little flat spot area thats cast into it and place a flat magnet there. 
I didn't have one laying around, so I bought one from summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FTM-GP101/
when the box showed up at my door, I picked it up and as I walked through the metal door frame of the house, the box damn near jumped out of my hand, lol!   
It then hit me that I may be asking for trouble.   this is one seriously wicked magnet.
So I did a mock up and loosely placed a piece of masking tape to hold the magnet in its spot while I put it up to the housing, and it stayed put.   So I guess I'm gonna be ok using silicone to hold it there (see pic).  I placed it on the side farthest away from the ring gear.
Since I openly claim to not be the brightest candle on the shelf when it comes to alot of things tr,.....If anybody reading this
forsees big disaster by doing it that way, please speak up, lol.
 
notice the pic where I got the 3/8's drive ratchet, extension and socket just hanging from the outside of the housing after I mounted it.   that is one wicked magnet. 
I do have the magnetic fill plug also, but hopefully nobody tells me this magnet is overkill.  I have removed diff covers before after onlhy a few thousand miles since the last fluid change, and the magnet always has metal on it
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Offline Charlief1

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #12 on: December 29 2011, 11:37:32 PM »
The only difference I will add on the yoke is to measure the difference between the pinion and the nut. If not that make a mark on the nut so you can align it to a specific point or you can over tighten the nut and screw up the bearings.
And remember, when dealing with children, silence may be golden but duct tape is silver.

Offline tb3

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #13 on: December 30 2011, 09:43:35 AM »
thanks charlie. 
How would I correct the torque/alignment if I've already removed the nut without measuring it?
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Offline Charlief1

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Re: energy suspension polyurethane body bushings question
« Reply #14 on: December 30 2011, 12:03:00 PM »
You can't unless you tear into the diff. What you've done is crush the crush sleeve more than it was so you'd need to take it out and replace it with a new one and reset the pinion depth. Not something you can do on the car without taking the carrier out. Sorry about that. Hopefully it's not to tight and the bearings are ok.
And remember, when dealing with children, silence may be golden but duct tape is silver.

 

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