IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: Forzfed on June 03 2018, 06:41:31 PM
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I was thinking of just putting in my Pennzoil Race oil. I was going to use Rotella but I was told that it has more detergent and less ZDP in it. I have a roller cam so I don't have to worry about that.
What do you guys think?
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You have a roller cam...
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there is enuf zddp in your oils to cover push rods and other rubbing surfaces. No need for Break In oils
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There's some idiot up in Canada uses Rotella and Wix filters. Saw a vid of his rod bearing after beating on the engine like a seal pup at his local track every weekend. Bearing looked brand new. Heard a rumour the moron uses a flat tappet cam too.
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What I really wanted was to use a cheaper oil for breakin. I think I still have some Rotella left. I was thinking of putting 200 km on the motor and dumping the oil before putting the race oil in.
Aren't wix the filters you want to use? Nothing wrong with being a moron as long as your a helpful one! :cheers:
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On my own engines I break the cam in...dump the oil and filter...and head straight for the track. Dan and I slather the cam and lifters with cam break in lube. Pushrods, rockers, timing chain etc get drowned in GM EOS.
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Bearings will last forever. All you have to do is monitor for KR...and stay out of it. I've never understood how guys will go out and spend a gazillion dollars on cool guys parts, chrome etc, but refuse to spend a couple of bucks on Powerlogger. Or how the knock gauge is going off like xmas tree lites on the a-pillar in their line of vision...and they keep their foot in it. I don't know how many engines Dan and I have pulled. Each and every one of them...except mine...have had the rod bearings pounded into tin foil.
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I always love hearing that's it's standard to have ''initial timing chain stretch" like it's set in stone.
The trick with making a timing chain 'not stretch' is to use (motorcycle) chain lube all over the inside before installing.
.....I know, right..... :)
(http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/692/664/fef.jpg)
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The engine will be broken in by the time you drive it around the block once. All this break in stuff is from the old days when piston rings were not moly coated/plasma, whatever the term is. Put whatever oil you want in it, drive it ten miles, 15 kms, and change the oil to look for metal particles fromt eh bearings...go racing
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What? You mean no bon-ami? to seat the rings anymore ?. JK people lol
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Maybe I should reword it, "What is the best oil for a run and dump?" :D
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Maybe I should reword it, "What is the best oil for a run and dump?" :D
Whatever you can find that doesn't have dead spiders in it.
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The engine will be broken in by the time you drive it around the block once. All this break in stuff is from the old days when piston rings were not moly coated/plasma, whatever the term is.
Yep. The guys that think you have to have a crosshatch have knocked the moly off the rings within seconds. 'Break in' is done. Plain iron rings on rough bores. Just like Henry Ford did it. :)
The guys that make the bores as close to a mirror as possible keep the moly and need to load the rings 5 times so they can be married (and in this instance, marriage is actually happy forever after).
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Break in, Break out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=152&v=KFs2tL3K2Uk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=152&v=KFs2tL3K2Uk)
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Maybe I should reword it, "What is the best oil for a run and dump?" :D
Whatever you can find that doesn't have dead spiders in it.
Interestingly, spider legs work via hydraulic pressures:http://www.industrialoutpost.com/hydraulic-spider-legs/