IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: deathraider6996 on February 18 2016, 06:09:34 PM
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Alright guys, I finally have my car in Arizona with me! About a month in and im having the worst issue we've run into. first, and foremost, ill give you some details about the car. 1987 Buick T, 146XXX Miles, PT-51, hotwire, built trans, 60lbs injectors, vigilante TC, rjc pp, dutt neck, stock bottom end, stock heads, and even stock head gaskets. there are a few more item but i wont bore you guys any more.
The issue! I was driving home last saturday night. I brake boosted at a light by my house, did a 10 psi launch, it went well, until the scanmaster started showing knock. I could also hear the knock, which sounded more like a tapping/ticking. Oil pressure was normal. I limped it the remaining mile to my house. once at the house i began looking for the issue. It sounds like it is coming from the top end on the passenger side. Kind of hoping for a broken rocker, i pulled the valve covers. I didnt find anything out of the ordinary while in there. I started it with the valve covers off to watch for a possible wiped lobe, I couldnt really tell. All the pushrods were spinning. I pulled the rockers for a closer look. nothing out of the ordinary. I pulled the pushrods and they looked fine. I rolled them on my bench and none seem bent.
I checked the flex plate next. All the bolts were tight and the flexplate had no visual signs of cracks.
I checked the compression and all six were within +/- 5 of 120, which I think is good for how old and how many miles are on this motor.
Oil is not milkshaked. oil level is fine
During this inspection, i noticed a leak in my radiator. Ordered an fbody aluminum radiator.
:powersix: :cheers: :powersix:
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did you pull the hose off the turbo inlet and check to see if the blades are spinning freely and not touching the housing?
Is it still ticking?
Pulled all the plugs to see if they look normal?
O2's etc look normal
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run your hand along the seam with the block below the plugs to see if you feel any hot air coming out from a blown hg?
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Could it be a exhaust leak?
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did you pull the hose off the turbo inlet and check to see if the blades are spinning freely and not touching the housing?
Is it still ticking?
Pulled all the plugs to see if they look normal?
O2's etc look normal
blades are spinning freely and not touching
i imagine it is, when i pulled the spark plugs i broke one, so i wont be able to run her tonight until i get new plugs. plugs all lok the same and are brown. they look normal.
i havent checked the o2s or looked at them when i was diagnosing. :x :x
Ive had exhaust leaks before and it doesnt sound exactly the same but close.
IDK if i said this in my prior post but the knock was constant with the rise in rpms. the knock was 0 or very low when at idle.
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run your hand along the seam with the block below the plugs to see if you feel any hot air coming out from a blown hg?
I will have to get to that test when i get some spark plugs.
Thanks Steve
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if the pushrods were turning, you can pretty much discount a bad lobe. I am thinking it pushed a head gasket.
Problem with compression or leak down checks is that they use about 100 psi of pressure in the combustion chamber and may not show the leak as readily as several hundred psi of combustion leaks will. this is where we could use an electronic stethoscope to find the area where the tick is coming from.
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I will check out the head gaskets once I get it running. Avila said there was a tester that checks for exhaust in the coolant. What are your thoughts before I pay 50$
Another question though, should I be able to move the pushrods up and down and spin them by hand?
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the tester is very handy, but, I don't think you need it yet. Usually, it will try to blow the coolant out into the reservoir. I am thinking about what is ticking right now.
When the engine is first turned off, the pushrods will be stiff and hard to turn. As they set a bit, some will probably be easier to turn..those that are on closed valves, anyway. there should be no vertical movement ever when the engine is off.
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what about huffing out the breather if the gasket was blown into the lifter valley.
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A few years ago I had a loud tick that went up with RPM & was loudest from under/around the Turbo cover. My Crank Sensor was somehow moved & rubbing but it sure sounded like it was the top end & not underneath until I finally stuck my head under the car.
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A few years ago I had a loud tick that went up with RPM & was loudest from under/around the Turbo cover. My Crank Sensor was somehow moved & rubbing but it sure sounded like it was the top end & not underneath until I finally stuck my head under the car.
I had the exact same thing on my white T
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good idea...if it is rubbing, it could make the car misfire
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How would one go about checking the crank sensor?
I finally have the fbody radiator in and now i just need to delete the oil cooler lines. I will fill it with oil and coolant then put the plugs back in to check the headgaskets.
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http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm)
make sure the sensor is centered so that the blades on the damper are are in the center of the sensor slot on all three blades and makes sure the sensor is not loose in its bracket. turn the damper and check that all three blades go thru the center of the slot.
Then crank the engine and watch the damper move thru the sensor while idling to see if you see any contact or hear a noise at that point,. Have someone rev the engine while watching the balancer. Make sure the crank does not move backward or forward when this happens and so that the blades move and hit the sensor...
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160223/3245ebb71adcfa816f1cac724b6666d4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160223/b2a4683e9fc86e3019ae903eadd4faf3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160223/3f184fe1502e1c5ce2ee83c30bd96850.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160223/15ac1a1d14eaf4a25be0774af8aca5a4.jpg)
It looks like it's been making contact due to it being shiny(for lack of words)
The bracket is tight. The plug is tight.
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I will be able to crank and idle it once I'm able to delete the oil adapter(have to buy a bigger socket, which I don't know the size?)
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guess you are gonna have to read that link I gave you!
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1 1/8" socket.
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1 1/8" socket.
Thank you.
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Alright so i had my friend manually turn the motor over while i looked at the blades. All three looked the same and were not touching. i am confused by this. the blades are too clean and fresh looking to not be rubbing.
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I need to learn to read....smh
Did you check the clearances to see if you had 0.025-0.030 inches between that side of the blade and the slot in the damper? Damn sure iooks like it is rubbing! That may be the source of the ticking there.
When you watch it at idle...be watching it when the engine is cranked and see if the crank moves in or out to that it then touches. Thinking about a worn thrust bearing
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Grab a cheapass magnetic dial indicator and check your crank end play.
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I need to learn to read....smh
Did you check the clearances to see if you had 0.025-0.030 inches between that side of the blade and the slot in the damper? Damn sure iooks like it is rubbing! That may be the source of the ticking there.
When you watch it at idle...be watching it when the engine is cranked and see if the crank moves in or out to that it then touches. Thinking about a worn thrust bearing
I checked it with a home Depot gift card and it's a little thinner in size but I figured its a good start. Well the cards can't even slide through, there isn't enough room. I tested it with all three fins.
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Grab a cheapass magnetic dial indicator and check your crank end play.
Can I find those locally, or are the mostly online?
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I need to learn to read....smh
Did you check the clearances to see if you had 0.025-0.030 inches between that side of the blade and the slot in the damper? Damn sure iooks like it is rubbing! That may be the source of the ticking there.
When you watch it at idle...be watching it when the engine is cranked and see if the crank moves in or out to that it then touches. Thinking about a worn thrust bearing
I checked it with a home Depot gift card and it's a little thinner in size but I figured its a good start. Well the cards can't even slide through, there isn't enough room. I tested it with all three fins.
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that should be about the right clearance. Set it with that....bet that fixes it
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Take a cigarette pack and cut a piece 3/8" wide and 3" long then loosen the sensors and slide the card board in long ways threw the slot, then push the sensor up tight to the card board and tighten the sensor back down then pull the card board out and you will have the 25 tho you need. It works every time.
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Take a cigarette pack and cut a piece 3/8" wide and 3" long then loosen the sensors and slide the card board in long ways threw the slot, then push the sensor up tight to the card board and tighten the sensor back down then pull the card board out and you will have the 25 tho you need. It works every time.
^^^
LIKE!
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Grab a cheapass magnetic dial indicator and check your crank end play.
Can I find those locally, or are the mostly online?
Princess Auto has 'em...mite be a Canadian thing tho.
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translation: harbour freight= magnetic base + dial indicator
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Take a cigarette pack and cut a piece 3/8" wide and 3" long then loosen the sensors and slide the card board in long ways threw the slot, then push the sensor up tight to the card board and tighten the sensor back down then pull the card board out and you will have the 25 tho you need. It works every time.
I heard rumour of a GN up in Canada that's gone 6.7 with stock junk and a few bolt ons that uses that method.
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Like Brand and I say keep it simple and you can't go wrong.
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I need to learn to read....smh
Did you check the clearances to see if you had 0.025-0.030 inches between that side of the blade and the slot in the damper? Damn sure iooks like it is rubbing! That may be the source of the ticking there.
When you watch it at idle...be watching it when the engine is cranked and see if the crank moves in or out to that it then touches. Thinking about a worn thrust bearing
I checked it with a home Depot gift card and it's a little thinner in size but I figured its a good start. Well the cards can't even slide through, there isn't enough room. I tested it with all three fins.
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I set mine with a piece of a Coke can... which is slightly healthier than smoking.
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You keep wasting your money on coke and your car. Your waste not mine.
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I use a plastic coke bottle
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I use a plastic coke bottle
gives you a nice pre-curved feeler gauge!
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I use a plastic coke bottle
gives you a nice pre-curved feeler gauge!
You gotta love a Curved Feeler Gauge!
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A banana works for bigger gaps!
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Well guys, I took there adjusted the crank sensor with the aforementioned cigarette box method. I then went to start it up and it wont idle without shutting off. I can rev it a little bit to keep it from shutting down but of course the knocking sound it back. Still constant with RPM.
It is also smoking like crazy from the tail pipes. White smoke. lots of cloudy white smoke.
new plugs, oil, filter, radiator, radiator fluid,
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back to the blown head gasket, I think
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Have we put a compression gauge on it yet?
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Have we put a compression gauge on it yet?
Yes sir, all +/- 5 of 120
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back to the blown head gasket, I think
Thats what I'm thinking.
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what did the plugs look like when they came out any really clean ones?
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Call NASA and tell 'em to crank up the Hubble Space Telescope to search for your headgaskets orbiting the planet. That knocking sound you're hearing...that's consistent with RPM...mite be a rod bearing that's been pounded into tinfoil from KR.
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what did the plugs look like when they came out any really clean ones?
Nope all the same.
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Call NASA and tell 'em to crank up the Hubble Space Telescope to search for your headgaskets orbiting the planet. That knocking sound you're hearing...that's consistent with RPM...mite be a rod bearing that's been pounded into tinfoil from KR.
I really wish I never saw your comment... Guess I'll pull the heads...
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Call NASA and tell 'em to crank up the Hubble Space Telescope to search for your headgaskets orbiting the planet. That knocking sound you're hearing...that's consistent with RPM...mite be a rod bearing that's been pounded into tinfoil from KR.
Wouldn't there be metal in the oil?
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Call NASA and tell 'em to crank up the Hubble Space Telescope to search for your headgaskets orbiting the planet. That knocking sound you're hearing...that's consistent with RPM...mite be a rod bearing that's been pounded into tinfoil from KR.
I had that exact thing happen to me. One half of only 1 rod bearing was flattened out & noise went with RPM. Try unplugging the injectors 1 at a time. That's how Norbs & I found the issue. Machine shop confirmed what we thought it was. Weird it was only one but that's all it takes!
"Wouldn't there be metal in the oil??
Not really, it was pancaked but it wasn't torn apart at all. Looking at it I saw nothing until Martin measured it.
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Sounds more like the right head gasket is blowing compression out the side.
Pull the heads. :O
Rod bearing flat isn't what he's hearing I don't think. :icon_neutral:
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That's my guess, too.
Mike is usually right!
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Either way seems that the heads are coming off. Oh well shit happens!
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If you can get it to run pull plug wires 1 at a time it should get quieter when you kill the spark to rod making the noise.
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Pulling injector connectors is less painful🙉
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And it does not hurt the module, either
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Pulling injector connectors is less painful🙉
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Never thought of that!
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In the slow/learning process of removing the heads I found these metal chunks in the little pools of oil under the rocker shaft.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160309/551c154e1f877f73c4492038b01518e6.jpg)
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I'd get after the previous owner for "selling' you that car with a faulty headgasket.
Noticed that he doesn't seem post here anymore....
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In the slow/learning process of removing the heads I found these metal chunks in the little pools of oil under the rocker shaft.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160309/551c154e1f877f73c4492038b01518e6.jpg)
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That's just a lack of maintenance, could happen to anybody, right?
Brings to mind some Latin, " caveat emptor".
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Its possible that is graphite from the head gasket, make sure you drop the pan and inspect the pickup and clean out any debris. How was your oil pressure?
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I'd get after the previous owner for "selling' you that car with a faulty headgasket.
Noticed that he doesn't seem post here anymore....
I'm not too sure who put these headgaskets on. I was under the idea that these were stock headgaskets until I talked to my dad and he said they had been off before.
With this vehicle sitting 11 months out of the year, then me coming home for some r and r and beating on it, sure didn't help.
This car needs a lot of work and I'm aware. I'm pulling the motor and going to rebuild(as funds permit)
Luckily, I have this board to help me through my first rebuild.
The motor is ready to come out after the motor mounts, crossover, and transmission are disconnected.
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Its possible that is graphite from the head gasket, make sure you drop the pan and inspect the pickup and clean out any debris. How was your oil pressure?
It was magnetic. Oil pressure was normal.
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Rick Fernandez posted a video on his Facebook awhile back of his motor making the exact same sound mine was. He sent his motor to William Avilla. Tore the motor apart and found it to be the rod bearings.
In my little bit of reading trying to understand the bottom end. The rod bearings are the ones under the crank and the main bearings are the ones on top, correct? If this is my issue, they should both be replaced, right?
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Rick Fernandez posted a video on his Facebook awhile back of his motor making the exact same sound mine was. He sent his motor to William Avilla. Tore the motor apart and found it to be the rod bearings.
In my little bit of reading trying to understand the bottom end. The rod bearings are the ones under the crank and the main bearings are the ones on top, correct? If this is my issue, they should both be replaced, right?
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(http://www.buzzle.com/images/autos/bearings-location.jpg)
(http://www.buzzle.com/images/diagrams/main-bearings.jpg)
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Rick Fernandez posted a video on his Facebook awhile back of his motor making the exact same sound mine was. He sent his motor to William Avilla. Tore the motor apart and found it to be the rod bearings.
In my little bit of reading trying to understand the bottom end. The rod bearings are the ones under the crank and the main bearings are the ones on top, correct? If this is my issue, they should both be replaced, right?
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It may not be as simple as just replacing some bearings. The condition of the crankshaft bearing surfaces needs to be assessed and dimensions measured. Finding a reputable machine shop with experience in turbo Buick V6's can do this for you for a fee of course.
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Where is the car now?
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Rick Fernandez posted a video on his Facebook awhile back of his motor making the exact same sound mine was. He sent his motor to William Avilla. Tore the motor apart and found it to be the rod bearings.
In my little bit of reading trying to understand the bottom end. The rod bearings are the ones under the crank and the main bearings are the ones on top, correct? If this is my issue, they should both be replaced, right?
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(http://www.buzzle.com/images/autos/bearings-location.jpg)
(http://www.buzzle.com/images/diagrams/main-bearings.jpg)
Thank you for the clarification.
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Rick Fernandez posted a video on his Facebook awhile back of his motor making the exact same sound mine was. He sent his motor to William Avilla. Tore the motor apart and found it to be the rod bearings.
In my little bit of reading trying to understand the bottom end. The rod bearings are the ones under the crank and the main bearings are the ones on top, correct? If this is my issue, they should both be replaced, right?
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It may not be as simple as just replacing some bearings. The condition of the crankshaft bearing surfaces needs to be assessed and dimensions measured. Finding a reputable machine shop with experience in turbo Buick V6's can do this for you for a fee of course.
Im not underestimatin g the amount of work this motor is going to take. I already have a guy ready to check out the block, crank, pistons, etc. I was purely just curious if they were something you pulled out and set back in. I'm trying to learn as much as possible during this process as I see it as the best time to do so. ☺☺☺
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Where is the car now?
Tucson, AZ with me.
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if the bearings are bad, there is a very good chance that the crank will need to be resized and the rods also reworked....if you want to insure long long life...
the journals must be inspected and mic'ed to know how serious the problem is
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Zimmerman's machineshop in Phoenix comes to mind as among the best.
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What about this guy.
http://arizonagn.com/?page_id=86 (http://arizonagn.com/?page_id=86)
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I think Zimmerman does most of Arizona GNs machine work. So either way your in good hands.
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I think Zimmerman does most of Arizona GNs machine work. So either way your in good hands.
You are correct Larry. Nick uses them for the machine work and then he and his son do the assembly
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Re: Knock, Knock, Whos There? Help!
« Reply #69 on: Today at 11:15:13 AM »
Quote
Steve said.
if the bearings are bad, there is a very good chance that the crank will need to be resized and the rods also reworked....if you want to insure long long life...
the journals must be inspected and mic'ed to know how serious the problem is.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The OP said he has a GUY to look at the engine- not very inspiring unless he is experienced in Buick motors.
take it to a buick specialist like Nick and drop it off and wait. IMO.
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Zimmerman's machineshop in Phoenix comes to mind as among the best.
I'll check them out. I was talking to Bob Ostercamp about doing the work.
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Re: Knock, Knock, Whos There? Help!
« Reply #69 on: Today at 11:15:13 AM »
Quote
Steve said.
if the bearings are bad, there is a very good chance that the crank will need to be resized and the rods also reworked....if you want to insure long long life...
the journals must be inspected and mic'ed to know how serious the problem is.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The OP said he has a GUY to look at the engine- not very inspiring unless he is experienced in Buick motors.
take it to a buick specialist like Nick and drop it off and wait. IMO.
I know to go to Buick specialists.
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google tells me Bob Ostercamp is a midas muffler dealer?
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google tells me Bob Ostercamp is a midas muffler dealer?
I'm going to use Zimmerman.
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google tells me Bob Ostercamp is a midas muffler dealer?
He works on the ones in the hangar and the ones at his house are his. He knows Richard Clark closely. I think I'm just going to use Richard Clark's builder.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160323/0bf33417c4851b543c821068dd8c909a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160323/485cd1ed0f21e283bfb0bd23fe0504b6.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160323/3d1d09da8cef9ef49b0b5bdff14414a3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160323/16c85bc60824eac52c3bf94aeb117851.jpg)
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Is there anything wrong with vatozone water pump new replacements?
I've heard the ac delete belts are 1 inch shorter in length. Any input on this?
I have disconnected the slew of wires running next to the driver side valve cover, fuel injector harness, and ignition wiring. The ground on the heads and a couple on the starter are the rest to be able to pull the motor, correct?
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fuel lines at the frame, I just unbolt the accessory bracket leave the power steering pump and bungy it out of the way pay attention to the reservoir it is delicate and easy to break.
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the delco pump from highway stars seems to work $37~
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fuel lines at the frame, I just unbolt the accessory bracket leave the power steering pump and bungy it out of the way pay attention to the reservoir it is delicate and easy to break.
Thank you! motor is ready to pull!
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Yup... Still yet to pull the heads
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/ba63cfa9a91331281029df2a33a2c137.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/87587aed3985f25d27a157ccd9f24174.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/7abc63eb2fac3483a84d7cc30d4616b2.jpg)
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Passenger side head. Head gasket intact.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/6837b581fbd4ea1b9179ff09ab4449ae.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/2ec088ad81ca66be9d6295ccf95deee4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/6a191479e82230c0bad9d34d6d497e69.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/6a6661f46ca7bcd25a6d831f7b5468cd.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/33db7c3ce0390311b11d27d563a32ac1.jpg)
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lotsa debris on that pick up!
that engine is pretty nasty looking
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Definately time for a rebuild
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I'm betting the sludge in the bottom is bearing material. Can you feel any ring ridge with your fingernail?
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Fire ring appears split and distorted between cylinders in one of the pics. Pistons are wet and oily. Likely running rich...and what heat range were the plugs?
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Fire ring appears split and distorted between cylinders in one of the pics. Pistons are wet and oily. Likely running rich...and what heat range were the plugs?
Delco 43 gapped 35
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I'm betting the sludge in the bottom is bearing material. Can you feel any ring ridge with your fingernail?
I tried go ogling what a ring Ridge is but with no luck
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Driver side
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/0d9805e7c0f9f799d161712a04211385.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/f958b384144ee98684c1110dd9b69bb8.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/e9a1a4c45585ffd1f0ee09824a4263f8.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/4bc761361baa0c6135e7a03b4c8cec9c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/ed478036998c231c38b7b80286b26186.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/ed4e64397fb2ca7d5c15e9e49dafe420.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/2c990708a8187137f57f97a7474d4386.jpg)
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I'm betting the sludge in the bottom is bearing material. Can you feel any ring ridge with your fingernail?
I tried go ogling what a ring Ridge is but with no luck
It's the area at the top of each cylinder where the piston or ring do not travel. In your pictures, portions have a rust look to them. Sort of like the rust ridge on a brake rotor. We use a ridge reamer to cut it back on overhauls.
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I'm betting the sludge in the bottom is bearing material. Can you feel any ring ridge with your fingernail?
I tried go ogling what a ring Ridge is but with no luck
It's the area at the top of each cylinder where the piston or ring do not travel. In your pictures, portions have a rust look to them. Sort of like the rust ridge on a brake rotor. We use a ridge reamer to cut it back on overhauls.
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I'll remember to bring that up to the machinist. I still need to find where this metal came from.
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Just going by those pictures that motor is beyond "reaming". To me it looks like the heads have been lifting for a long time.
Going to be interesting to see the bottom end.
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Just going by those pictures that motor is beyond "reaming". To me it looks like the heads have been lifting for a long time.
Going to be interesting to see the bottom end.
To me, it doesn't look like rust. More like carbon buildup and discoloration. Not saying it doesn't need to be reamed I'm just saying I think reaming it will work it out.
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Yes bearings will tell a lot make sure you mark and number the rods and caps when you take them apart either with a punch or a sharpie so they go back in same spot the same orientation
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Just going by those pictures that motor is beyond "reaming". To me it looks like the heads have been lifting for a long time.
Going to be interesting to see the bottom end.
To me, it doesn't look like rust. More like carbon buildup and discoloration. Not saying it doesn't need to be reamed I'm just saying I think reaming it will work it out.
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You're only reaming the top of the cylinder. As was mentioned earlier, can you catch your fingenail on it? The other rust discoloration on the cylinder bore needs to be measured to decide if it needs be bored on honed.
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The cylinders will taper on a higher mileage engine...wider at the top. Clean the top of a piston off. Find out if it's over bored.
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I'm betting the sludge in the bottom is bearing material. Can you feel any ring ridge with your fingernail?
I tried go ogling what a ring Ridge is but with no luck
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http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/ridge-reamer-engine-block.html (http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/ridge-reamer-engine-block.html)
drop piston down in the cylinder and little, then run your finger nail up the wall toward the top. You will feel the ridge as shown in the picture. trying to drive the piston past this ridge can break the ring or piston lands doing more damage to the cylinder as well as messing up the piston.
I am pretty sure that the block will need to be bored oversize and new pistons/rings will be required anyway, but it's good practice to avoid messing up anything you don't have to....
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note what Larry said above, the caps have to go back on the rods that they came off...so mark them so they cannot be mixed up
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If the bearings are offset that is to show that they were very loose
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/57fcfd3223b3af710f96855eed9d9a89.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/2acfd07bd36cc717ff8dd7a5529d2736.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/7d50813288e0811c14ef67eca9bc4fe6.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/956eae7a1e27f9e1cdd9eec7196a9d0e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/709d8adee5233eeb0c01cd42fa8686a9.jpg)
Top to bottom 123456
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/c53315acca030d3de0d82f3e6ca5c4d3.jpg)
Left to right 123456
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/9e56fc8b155863a061ced657823ce8f4.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/5ba8fa8d8fd86fba9c182190f29893b2.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/a03ff0024da04f3177ee91595208fa31.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/05d9dcb43c7fa657b41513a22cde9699.jpg)
Number 4 was spun and smashed
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/8927bf84ccc23320cb24957386176d1c.jpg)
Left to right 1234
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/18166a7a5f44d472e6511cc137e8abdd.jpg)
Rod 1
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/fcafce1fbe38a8418b3482f212df5e87.jpg)
Rod 3
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/e3ba9996ac8cb475aa8b638edaa7de7a.jpg)
Rod 5
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/199a97bf73aaa2eeca520ad0efee035d.jpg)
Rod 2
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/c9c18c4856370bacec8c434bb87d9796.jpg)
Rod 4
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/6909ecfe12a340972397cc65cdd5b678.jpg)
Rod 6
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160329/66bd4fcfb603109450899a7da9210807.jpg)
Blehh thanks in advance guys.
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I suspect those rods will all need to be resized. Only the machine shop can tell if the crank can be turned and reused. It is perfectly fine to turn a crank down 0.030" if that is what it takes to save it.
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Well, I just need to finish tearing down the block to bare then I can bring it up to Phoenix.
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some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it. Amazing how durable these things can be.
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some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it. Amazing how durable these things can be.
Theres no doubting that. 150k miles and my love for boosted driving didnt help the case. oh well, ill take this time to learn as much as i can. just got to make sure that i dont overwhelm myself and take my time. :)
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some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it. Amazing how durable these things can be.
Theres no doubting that. 150k miles and my love for boosted driving didnt help the case. oh well, ill take this time to learn as much as i can. just got to make sure that i dont overwhelm myself and take my time. :)
If I had any advise to give it would be this. Set some goals with the engine build for your desired outcome and stick with it. Then research, research research! Get a notebook and write the stuff down. You will forget. You can go balls deep into your wallet if not. Not all of the cool guy parts are needed. The weak link in your build, mechanically speaking, will be your stock transmission depending on the power level that you initially set your goals for. Sometimes, stock power is enough to break your tranny. Watch the big board, facebook and this site for stuff that people are selling. You can save a fair amount of money buying second hand. Buyer beware! There are reputable sellers and then there are some SOB's. Shop all the vendors supporting our cars. Some sell items lower than others. Some have better customer service than others. When you finally get it all together, start with the basics and always go back and check them. Fuel pressure, O2 mv at idle, IAC counts at idle, TPS voltage, MAF at idle, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, voltage at the ecm and fuel pump. Did I mention vacuum and exhaust leaks? Last and probably the most important, everyone has an opinion on what's best. Choose wisely who's information you decide to trust.
Good luck my friend! It's going to be a fun ride!
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Just going by his signature he is way beyond "stock"
OP
Just would like to ask -How did the suspension mods work for you? Got any 60ft times or 1/4 mile times etc.
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Just going by his signature he is way beyond "stock"
OP
Just would like to ask -How did the suspension mods work for you? Got any 60ft times or 1/4 mile times etc.
Not yet. It definitely feels a lot better.
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some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it. Amazing how durable these things can be.
Theres no doubting that. 150k miles and my love for boosted driving didnt help the case. oh well, ill take this time to learn as much as i can. just got to make sure that i dont overwhelm myself and take my time. :)
If I had any advise to give it would be this. Set some goals with the engine build for your desired outcome and stick with it. Then research, research research! Get a notebook and write the stuff down. You will forget. You can go balls deep into your wallet if not. Not all of the cool guy parts are needed. The weak link in your build, mechanically speaking, will be your stock transmission depending on the power level that you initially set your goals for. Sometimes, stock power is enough to break your tranny. Watch the big board, facebook and this site for stuff that people are selling. You can save a fair amount of money buying second hand. Buyer beware! There are reputable sellers and then there are some SOB's. Shop all the vendors supporting our cars. Some sell items lower than others. Some have better customer service than others. When you finally get it all together, start with the basics and always go back and check them. Fuel pressure, O2 mv at idle, IAC counts at idle, TPS voltage, MAF at idle, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, voltage at the ecm and fuel pump. Did I mention vacuum and exhaust leaks? Last and probably the most important, everyone has an opinion on what's best. Choose wisely who's information you decide to trust.
Good luck my friend! It's going to be a fun ride!
Trans is pretty built up. Same parts and builder as Jack dilorenzo. Thank you for your information!
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Currently looking at cams. I don't think I'm ready to fork over the 900 dollars it's going to take to go with a roller setup. I'd like to go with a 210/215. Bison said "roller isn't really needed until you get into the 7-800hp range. I'm perfectly fine with installing a flat tappet then eventually going roller. I've already heard the stories of wiped lobes soon after install but there are some people that run flat tappet with no issues. Im tight with this build. I'm fine with taking a couple months to build but I really want it done by mid summer at the latest. Thoughts? Insight?
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Area under the curve! That's the fancy term.
On the track a hyd. cam might be just as quick as a roller but won't have the same feel as a roller. A roller has steeper ramps than a roller. IMO for a street car go roller and don't look back and it's not really $900 if you are buying a cam and lifters anyway. Consider where your motor spends most of it's time on the street =mid range.
Go roller and don't look back. imo.
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some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.
One previous owner ? (wink)
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some one rode that thing hard and put it up wet before you got it.
One previous owner ? (wink)
Lol at least two. 😉
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Area under the curve! That's the fancy term.
On the track a hyd. cam might be just as quick as a roller but won't have the same feel as a roller. A roller has steeper ramps than a roller. IMO for a street car go roller and don't look back and it's not really $900 if you are buying a cam and lifters anyway. Consider where your motor spends most of it's time on the street =mid range.
Go roller and don't look back. imo.
I run a small roller cam just for piece of mind mine is a 206/212, a flat tappet will work just have to make sure you use an oil with lots zinc or a zinc additive.
I have 2 buddies that both run the off the self flat tappet 206/206 they are fresh builds and one of them is a certified tech very thorough, break in is very important. I like the roller for the fact that you fire it up warm it up back it out of the driveway and put some boost to it to seat the rings and your done. Firing it up and bringing it to 2500 rpm and holding it there watching the headers glow and praying it doesn't over heat while you are breaking in a flat tappet spooks me.
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Both links say pretty much the same thing "-more duration at higher lift with a roller=" To me this means much crisper response in normal driving. Mine is a 212/212 comp. previous cam was a L Connelley [tweaked]221/221 cam flat tappet. That cam sounded GREAT and made good HP but was fairly lazy as far as response.
http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/camshaft-tech-flat-tappet-vs-roller/ (http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/camshaft-tech-flat-tappet-vs-roller/)
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0307-basic-camshaft-info/ (http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0307-basic-camshaft-info/)
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Firing it up and bringing it to 2500 rpm and holding it there watching the headers glow and praying it doesn't over heat while you are breaking in a flat tappet spooks me.
That's the reward part of building an engine. Only made better when done with open headers after dark. Trust me your neighbors will luv ya. Hahaha.
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Area under the curve! That's the fancy term.
On the track a hyd. cam might be just as quick as a roller but won't have the same feel as a roller. A roller has steeper ramps than a roller. IMO for a street car go roller and don't look back and it's not really $900 if you are buying a cam and lifters anyway. Consider where your motor spends most of it's time on the street =mid range.
Go roller and don't look back. imo.
The only issue I'm having is the cost. I'm looking at 500-600 for just the lifters, then the cam, head work, Springs if comp 980s aren't enough, and possibly pushrods. On top of all of this, I need block work, crank turned(if not a new one), pistons, and everything else that needs replaced when doing this kind of work.
Only kits that I can find are on taperformance. com and fullthrottlesp eed.com. If there are options that I am not aware of(which is definitely ppssible) I would really like to know where.
If I can't find a better priced alternative then I'm probably going to go with one of the kits offered on Gn1performance .com. :)
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Here is 1 option
https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2398&gid=287 (https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2398&gid=287)
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I've had good experience buying from full throttle though I haven't bought a cam from them. Not even sure what I would order. Judging from what people seem to be able to do with stock stuff I'm not sure you need a very wild cam to make big power.
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I've had good experience buying from full throttle though I haven't bought a cam from them. Not even sure what I would order. Judging from what people seem to be able to do with stock stuff I'm not sure you need a very wild cam to make big power.
I saw 10.46 out of one of my friends car last year on a stock factory cam. Cams are not nearly as important as a good set of heads and a big ol' turbo
Depends upon the projected usage and desired performance. At some point, a longe/taller cam allows the turbo to get more air into the cylinders without working as hard-no doubt about that,
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Nobody is suggesting to change cams just to gain a few HP. But if the engine is apart and you're going to get a cam anyways why NOT put an aggressive cam in your engine?
If you are doing a stock style rebuild OK put a stock style cam in.
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I guess it is all in how you wish to define AGGRESSIVE as well as to what the actual INTENDED use of the car.
IF you wish to drive the car daily, have good throttle response, and get well over 20 mpg on road trips, and run well into the elevens, then a MILD cam, and TIGHTER converter matched to the turbo will GIVE most people the MOST bang fro the buck.
IF you wish to build a a strip only car and don't care about street manners, then you may find more justification in a more AGGRESSIVE cam even if you cannot prove it by the time slip in all cases.
Given that I TOO used to run a Conley 221/221 cam, my own experience has been that a 210 cam provides much better street performance and that is not an aggressive cam by my definition. It also provides a tad more strip performance in my case.
I freely admit that I see no point in spending money that does not contribute to achieving my own goals and admit that your purpose may differ :)
I also admit that the 221 cam really sounded good out the exhaust between 5000 and 6300 rpm LOL
:D
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Like Steve says when your picking a cam keep in mind your converter and turbo. Moving the power band with a cam swap could lead to a converter swap and stiffer valve springs in order to take advantage of the full potential, you want to keep the car in the power band and that's all about converter
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Some of you may have seen the pics that Bison posted on FB. Stock block with stock pistons that finally cracked a piston after a year of Mid-Nine second runs at plus 30 psi boost. He listed the cam as a 3312/3312. That cam lobe comes up as a 212 roller on the Comp site. That's a pretty mild lobe for 800+ hp.
After 30 years of playing with these things, I am still amazed at what can come out of these things at times :)
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212/212 off the shelf cam...roller or flat tappet take your pick...turbo.. . a good convertor.. a good set of heads...and boost...will get your ass down the track in a hurry. But no one listens.
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I listen Brad!
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I read.... Then call Brad and listen. I don't have have Steve's number but I've heard him on the phone with William.
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212/212 off the shelf cam...roller or flat tappet take your pick...turbo.. . a good convertor.. a good set of heads...and boost...will get your ass down the track in a hurry. But no one listens.
I have read many an article explaining as to how roller cams have more area under the curve, etc., but most dyno comparisons that I have seen that were truly apple to apple, give almost identical results on anything that is street worthy. On turbo cars, this should be easily understood as the turbo trumps the cam in order of importance. But, this seems to be often the case on naturally aspirated cars as well.
There is a glaring downside to rollers...or maybe a couple. Too short a duration and the valve train gets really violent which shortens spring life and become dangerous at a lower rpm with regard to valve float, lifter pump up, etc. On the other hand, lifter weight may limit the rpm on hydraulic lifters no matter what the lobe profile might be idealized for. Trying to increase spring pressure significantly to increase the rpm range not only leads to lifter problems, but it also puts a lot of load on the front cam bearing and the oil pump/cam sensor drive.
Solid lifters are the answer to a serious race car but play heck with the knock sensor..but, then, serious race cars are going to get rebuilt pretty frequently so who cares lol
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Bison has stated on more than one occasion that most don't run near enuf valve spring pressure. I run 135 lb springs with this off the shelf cam...and if you were to watch a PL file with the RPM gauge panel from one of my runs they climb so fast it would make most go screaming into the nite. I read a post from Dusty Bradford awhile back stating he was changing valve springs back in the day 3 times during a race season. Will my cam and lifters wear out prematurely... probably...but that's the cost of racing.
And most don't understand how important torque convertor selection is...and understanding RPM drop, flash stall and slip percentage should be required reading.
P.S. One of the locals is putting XFI on his car. I'm gonna bury his ass with my chip. April 16th can't come fast enuf.
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Stock cams go mid 11's all the time. Fact. Ported heads are nice to tell your friends you have them. Cost too much to go a couple tenths quicker on a street car. The more you build it up, the higher you push the envelope. I would want to build it one time and not have to dig into the engine again for years.
Spend your money building it stockish, get a decent turbo, intercooler, 60 lb injectors, tight converter, alky kit, wide-band and good downpipe. Be able to watch what's going on in there with the right scan tools.
JMO.
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I would want to build it one time and not have to dig into the engine again for years
This is my philosophy
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As we increase cam duration, the rpm power band rises. That obviously allows us to pump a lot more air and make more power on the top end. The down side is that we lose power off the lower end and the entire power band shifts upward. Race cars, that is not a great problem. Makes the car sloppy if it is driven on the street.
We all know that the load on the engine increases as the square of the engine speed increase. Given we have, normally, a cast crank and relatively fragile cast rods, there is some incentive to keep the rpm down if we want decent engine life.
The beauty of a turbo engine is that we can push a lot more air into the engine at low rpm which results in great low rpm torque and great throttle response whenever needed. We therefore avoid some of the stress associated with increasing rotating stress although we still increase the stress in the combustion chamber from increased pressure.
People always want to try to use non aspirated engine theory on forced aspiration engines which is counter to the original purpose.
Again, however, it is dependent on what you want to do with the car. The faster you go, the more it costs, and the more often you will get to rebuild it.
Given that I don't drive many long trips, if there was E85 around here, I would be tempted to convert and eliminate the variability of alky injection on at least one of my cars. That is just a side thought-not germane to the current discussion but after 30 years of this, I grow bored with the same old, same old.
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I would want to build it one time and not have to dig into the engine again for years
This is my philosophy
Unfortunately. ..it rarely works in the real world. KR can be kept under control with an adequate fuel supply...but some just can't get that through their heads. I beat on my junk most weekends spring to fall...and have yet to lose a pair of head gaskets to KR...tho I did orbit a pair accidently overboosting an engine one time. KR will pound rod bearings into tinfoil...as what happened here.
You can be as vigilant as all get out in regards to KR...but mechanical issues will rear their ugly head. I've personally cracked two rockers...had a piston pin come loose and score a cylinder all to hell...and had a cylinder crack into a water jacket so badly the crack went to the top of the cylinder...and I had to toss the block. These engines are 30 years old and have had the shit beaten out of them by God knows how many previous owners. Sooner or later...yer' gonna break stuff.
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Ok, from this vast amount of information, I have come to the final conclusion that I will be going with a flat tappet. 212/212 I think will be the sweet spot for my build. The only shortfalls my combo has which are still pretty hefty are stock heads, pt51 turbo, and the dutt neck Intercooler. If one is to know my goal of a 50/50 street/strip build with the ability to go low eleven then backed off a little to around 11.4-11.6 then those items are not too bad. I believe my converter might be a little too tight as I was told it is a 3200 lockup which is(from my research) a bit tight for a 51.
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212/212 off the shelf cam...roller or flat tappet take your pick...turbo.. . a good convertor.. a good set of heads...and boost...will get your ass down the track in a hurry. But no one listens.
I'm listening. I'm just making an informed decision from all informed opinions stated. :)
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My 2800 stall suits me I run a 61 mm BB turbo on slicks at the track I got a 1.60 60' on the street it is perfect my has a similar setup with a 3200 stall he has to pedal it I mash the throttle and go very little wheel spin.
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My 2800 stall suits me I run a 61 mm BB turbo on slicks at the track I got a 1.60 60' on the street it is perfect my has a similar setup with a 3200 stall he has to pedal it I mash the throttle and go very little wheel spin.
Interesting. I mash my pedal also and don't spin at all. 10psi launches. 275 60 15 Mt Dr
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Unless you have a quality convertor built to your exact build and goal...then the stall speed could be anywhere. Weight of the car...low gear tune...exhaust housing size...cubic inches...all have an effect on it. This 16930 I have stalls far lower than the 3000 at 0 PSI. Now if I dial in lots of low gear timing...and pull low gear fuel...then it comes up closer to 3000 than Erics chip on the defaults.
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Unfortunately. ..it rarely works in the real world. KR can be kept under control with an adequate fuel supply...but some just can't get that through their heads. I beat on my junk most weekends spring to fall...and have yet to lose a pair of head gaskets to KR...tho I did orbit a pair accidently overboosting an engine one time. KR will pound rod bearings into tinfoil...as what happened here.
You can be as vigilant as all get out in regards to KR...but mechanical issues will rear their ugly head. I've personally cracked two rockers...had a piston pin come loose and score a cylinder all to hell...and had a cylinder crack into a water jacket so badly the crack went to the top of the cylinder...and I had to toss the block. These engines are 30 years old and have had the shit beaten out of them by God knows how many previous owners. Sooner or later...yer' gonna break stuff.
Such a Debbie downer! LOL! Hopefully everyone realizes this but one can always hope that nothing comes apart and treat it nice so that it doesn't come apart.
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I remember Grumpy saying he went to the corner store for a loaf of bread one time...and the crank broke.
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Finally some real world results with no innuendo! And thanks OP for understanding. you will do all right.
10 psi launches and 60 ft times at 1.60 Man I can only dream.
Actually that's my project this year.
Can some of you numbers guys critique this=2.1 60's and 26 mph back half. How much will a 1.60 60 ft time affect the 1/8 and 1/4 performance.
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I remember Grumpy saying he went to the corner store for a loaf of bread one time...and the crank broke.
That would be my luck
Finally some real world results with no innuendo! And thanks OP for understanding. you will do all right.
10 psi launches and 60 ft times at 1.60 Man I can only dream.
Actually that's my project this year.
Can some of you numbers guys critique this=2.1 60's and 26 mph back half. How much will a 1.60 60 ft time affect the 1/8 and 1/4 performance.
Dude... You can foot brake it and launch with boost in the high teens. Don't dream it, make your reality!
Get your suspension dialed in. Find the instant center. Get some sticky tires. Practice your launches. Keep copious notes.
I have read that your 60 foot time is usually 14-16% of your overall 1/4 mile ET. If under 13% or over 17%, then it wasn't your best pass down the track
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Finally some real world results with no innuendo! And thanks OP for understanding. you will do all right.
10 psi launches and 60 ft times at 1.60 Man I can only dream.
Actually that's my project this year.
Can some of you numbers guys critique this=2.1 60's and 26 mph back half. How much will a 1.60 60 ft time affect the 1/8 and 1/4 performance.
I think every .10 to gain in the 60' is close to .20 on ET.
My 1.60 was a 7 psi launch I even managed a 1.69 with Nitto Drag radials that aren't supposed to hook.
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0.1 in the sixty usually brings 0.15 at the quarter for a mid eleven car. On a ten second car, it brings closer to 0.2 at the quarter.
26 in the last half is very good...suspect the car was lagging in the first half due to too rich an AF or something else.
Short times depend on two things. Horsepower and traction. The average 11.5 car will pull about 1.60-1.68 short times. An upper ten second car will usually pull about 1.50
Trap speeds are the best indicator of how much power you have at the rear tires. Short times are indicative as to how well you are putting it to the ground.
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Rated stall speed means nothing...it's how it works in your car :)
If you can launch at ten psi, that turbo should spool on up without hesitation. You are not supposed to spin the tires...you spin, you lose. You are supposed to go forward instantly. A large rear sway bar really helps these cars launch well. If the suspension is preloaded a bit, there should be no need for air bags, imo
The better converters will flash on up with the boost, yet they will not give you that slipping feeling and they will be tight and streetable at lower pedal input.
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Next question.. I bought an fbody radiator which I installed right before I pulled the motor. I ran it once for maybe 5 minutes. Should I be worried about the possibility of contaminants? Neither of the head gaskets blew so I'm guessing no. Oil cooler was deleted prior to the install of the new radiator..
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should be fine. Question that I have is where did the white smoke come from?
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should be fine. Question that I have is where did the white smoke come from?
That's the question of the day. I don't have the slightest idea
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Any of the piston tops really clean?
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Make sure they check the heads and block for cracks.....
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Any of the piston tops really clean?
None look any different than the others.
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Make sure they check the heads and block for cracks.....
Bleh... I was unfortunately thinking the same thing.
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Will this new oil pickup work fine? There is a bar and the mesh is bigger.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160406/f91185901c07e4f3bc448196e6875efc.jpg)
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Wrong one, go to RockAuto.com they have them there, you will see the difference in the pics.
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They both look the same as the one I have here. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160407/8d91b3a7eae9f62619fde2b176ecd053.jpg)
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http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1520A (http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1520A)
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Why does one not match the other.? (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/68a96524724e59ea5a9dc6ce761c0746.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/d3727a027b11101c8314fa3f251225a7.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/4ca84d285f1fff8cc1ac50939d5ec616.jpg)
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One has a thrust surface.
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The oil pick up you need from rock auto ,part number s201s2.
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One has a thrust surface.
Thank you.
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s201s2 same as the other one from Rock Auto.
Grab the TA one that Steve linked up
(http://www.rockauto.com/info/850/S201S2_2__ra_p.jpg)
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I just purchase one a week ago from RockAuto and that's not the one they sent me. It has a full screen not the plate in it.
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It has a full screen. The bar looks more for bracing I guess.
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in the picture, the screen looks awfully coarse. Makes me wonder how long the oil pump would last
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this the one.(https://www.rockauto.com/info/850/S201S2_1__ra_t.jpg)
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That's the Top side of s201s2
Click the little arrow beside the s201s2 pic & it turns over to the screen side & shows the bar?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1987,regal,3.8l+231cid+v6+turbocharged,1020957,engine,oil+pump+screen,12895 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1987,regal,3.8l+231cid+v6+turbocharged,1020957,engine,oil+pump+screen,12895)
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in the picture, the screen looks awfully coarse. Makes me wonder how long the oil pump would last
I double checked the part number of the melling unit I have with Bison and he said it's perfectly fine. 1 person vs yall right now. I'm leaning toward returning it and buying from taperformance. com
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Bison is plenty knowledgeable, but if the screen is as coarse like it appears instead of being like the factory, I would not use it...
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-cl69-300-8/none/images
Blehh, I'm pretty indecisive. Found this for a better price than the aforementioned 900. Still would need Springs, possibly pushrods, retainers, etc.
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Cam specs
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160410/9254270f986ef5f91b37d42483a199c2.jpg)
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http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/)
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Assuming good rockers and shafts, stock stuff is no good with roller cams.
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I still run stock rockers and shafts with my roller cam. I have braces the saddles on the rocker shaft and my lift is under .500 with comp 941 valve springs.
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Been working well for 16 years for me....
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Larry, I did put the reinforcements on a few years back after I moved out here....I would probably use the TA hd shafts if I built another engine....addi ng heavy rockers is not that great an idea when using hydraulic rollers
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Larry, I did put the reinforcements on a few years back after I moved out here....I would probably use the TA hd shafts if I built another engine....addi ng heavy rockers is not that great an idea when using hydraulic rollers
I completely agree the heavier shafts are a great Idea. I figured I would run what I had and upgrade later if needed I just hate installing the nylon retainers. .....
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The old SP hd shafts seemed brittle to me. I broke one with a flat tappet cam and then its replacement broke right after I installed a roller cam. I replaced that one with a stock shaft and it has many a mile on it since 1999 with no problems.
And, yeah, you are not the only one that hates those buttons!!!!!!!
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I've broken/seen others break too many times even with stock stuff to suit me. Including 455's. You guys have more nerve than me!
As far as weight roller cams are designed with roller rockers in mind -stockers not so much.
The stability and adjustment are worth the rollers to me?
Maybe with HD shafts.
Where do you get the buttons now?
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TA Performance
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I run solid rocker shafts with this flat tappet cam. Broke a couple of rockers over the years. I popped a coil and dropped 2 cylinders a year or so ago...was like I threw a boat anchor out it slowed so fast.
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http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/)
Only thing is that I don't need a timing chain. There was little to no play and doesn't have many miles on it.
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http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/)
Only thing is that I don't need a timing chain. There was little to no play and doesn't have many miles on it.
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http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/)
Only thing is that I don't need a timing chain. There was little to no play and doesn't have many miles on it.
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Stock appearing or roller?
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[/quote]
Only thing is that I don't need a timing chain. There was little to no play and doesn't have many miles on it.
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[/quote]
You don't know that yet. What does the machine shop say.
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Only thing is that I don't need a timing chain. There was little to no play and doesn't have many miles on it.
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[/quote]
You don't know that yet. What does the machine shop say.
[/quote]
That's true. I'm getting everything ordered then I'll contact them.
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http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-k69-300-8/overview/)
Only thing is that I don't need a timing chain. There was little to no play and doesn't have many miles on it.
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Stock appearing or roller?
Roller
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I may not have needed these but for 250 shipped, I couldn't say no. Got them from some auto salvage yard. Arp hardware, not sure of the rods except they have the two dots, je pistons 20 over.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/242084df0a782c3bceb81f44b6cba9eb.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/9feeaffc2cb174658cd63c9f94e8b8e1.jpg)
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Have the machine shop check the big ends for size...and have 'em check the rods for straight.
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I will definitely have them do that. Thank you for that info. :rock:
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Little update:
Dropped the motor off at Zimmerman racing engines in Phoenix. Says the crank will need to be grinded(?) in three weeks it'll be ready with a 1700 price tag. Forgot my front cover, they will open up the oil passages, blueprint, and rebuild the oil pump. He didn't mention the heads witch I forgot to bring up. Pretty sure I should bring them up and just have him install them.
Just noticed that the heads didn't have arp bolts, let alone studs, which I was told it did from someone. They were the stock tty sps bolts. So either the headgasket had been replaced and the old bolts were reused or they had never been off.
I'm a indecisive fucker. I eventually went with a 212/212 comp flat tappet cam. Lifters, chain, gears, pushrods, valve Springs, valve seals, retainer caps, and retainers.
I need to find a place to buy all the vacuum hoses so I can replace all of them.
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Grinding the crank just means that they need to be cleaned up to get a good surface for the bearings to ride on. You can bet on at least a .010 over sized bearing, possibly a bit bigger depending on how much material has to be removed.
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It seems we often get sold things that are imaginary when we look. All we can do is remember and not make the same mistake twice :) I have a few of those t shirts.
Should be really nice when you get thru!
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Grinding the crank just means that they need to be cleaned up to get a good surface for the bearings to ride on. You can bet on at least a .010 over sized bearing, possibly a bit bigger depending on how much material has to be removed.
Builder say maybe even. 020. I hope not. I would have to replace it down the road if I were to put some serious power down.
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It seems we often get sold things that are imaginary when we look. All we can do is remember and not make the same mistake twice :) I have a few of those t shirts.
Should be really nice when you get thru!
I'm really hoping so Steve. I hope I've made the correct decisions thus far. I'm probably going to take a week off when I get the motor back and dedicate my time to it.
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Stumbled upon someone on facebook who is going to try these out. Kind of cool and can't beat the price. Wonder if it would wreak havoc on the knock sensor. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160426/65e903f6b33caff77ddd1da5a91e1753.jpg)
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Is there anything special about knock sensors where I should pay 40ish from caspers compared to less than 20 at autozone or even an acdelco unit?
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no....caspers is selling NOS sensors, I think... whereas the current stuff is supposed to be the same as the old...hopefull y it is. Why are you replacing yours?
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no....caspers is selling NOS sensors, I think... whereas the current stuff is supposed to be the same as the old...hopefull y it is. Why are you replacing yours?
I don't want to leave a fresh rebuild in the hands of a old knock sensor. Do you happen to have the part number?
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Some times, I think I have more faith in the original parts than I do in the current production that is supposed to be exactly the same except made overseas ? :)
Original number was 10456287
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Some times, I think I have more faith in the original parts than I do in the current production that is supposed to be exactly the same except made overseas ? :)
Original number was 10456287
I'll do a little research then. :)
I know there was a possibility of the crank sensor being bad. Where can I find a good one of those?
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Don't think it was bad. Might have not been adjusted correctly. On the other hand, I suspect the crank was moving around and that was the root source. Crank sensors tend to be good or bad so look for a good price. Keep your old one for back up
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Should I have brought my heads up to the builder? Don't they have to machine the mating surface to ensure proper seal around the head gaskets?
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They probably need a clean up skim to be sure they are flat as well as having the guides checked and maybe a valve job. So yes
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The standard auto crank sensor is good, Highway Stars if nowhere else.
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I call bullshit on not being able to put down 'serious' power with a ground crank. Grumpy cracked the 9's on a 20/30 crank and I ran for 3 seasons every weekend well into the 11's with a 20/30 crank. I still have that rotating assembly here...and wouldn't think twice of putting it back into service after having it magnafluxed.
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Billy Anderson has said he would run a 30/30 any day....
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I don't think people put the thought into just how small .030 of an inch is. If it has rolled fillets, I'd run it.
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Long overdue update.
Motor is back. Slowly putting stuff back together.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160604/d4ebf35368a8207d287476274c42b938.jpg)
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Looks good! Be sure to use a good break in oil like Joe Gibbs break in oil and not just an additive
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That's awesome! Glad for you!
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Assembling a fresh motor is hours of enjoyment for me so have fun & don't rush it. :cheers:
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Looks good! Be sure to use a good break in oil like Joe Gibbs break in oil and not just an additive
Check :)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160604/01391c3f21ee467a4d2ad59397f6c53c.jpg)
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Guys I need some guidance, I have tried getting this damn roll pin out of the throttle body that controls the tps and I can't do it. I've tried punches and drilling with no avail. I'm about to just buy a used throttlebody because I'm tired of dealing with this
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Here is a link to Stevemon who did a few for me. I took mine apart but not sure if drilling was needed?
He will know all the tricks & a really Great guy to deal with. Tell him I said Hi! http://www.throttlebodys.com/ (http://www.throttlebodys.com/)
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Just my 2 cents. That's prolly from 1987...and the bushings and seals have seen better days. Contact Steve Monroe...and get one of his TB's. I swapped to one of his and instantly I had crisper throttle response and better around town driveability. Steve even sent it to me instead of waiting for me to send the core. What...you thot I ran one of those shiney 70mm TB's? Not fukn likely.
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Just my 2 cents. That's prolly from 1987...and the bushings and seals have seen better days. Contact Steve Monroe...and get one of his TB's. I swapped to one of his and instantly I had crisper throttle response and better around town driveability. Steve even sent it to me instead of waiting for me to send the core. What...you thot I ran one of those shiney 70mm TB's? Not fukn likely.
Now you've opened a can of worms. Maybe you should.
if a 3in= 76.2mm maf is a restriction why is'nt a 2.44 in 62mm throttle body
Is suck and blow the answer and how is it measured
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TB doesn't have screens in it (or at minimum 1 screen) so that has to come into this equation as well.
Steve will definitely hook you up with whatever you need for a Fair price. :cheers:
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Ron...do a search on TB.COM...and tell me how fast the air goes through the TB AT 25 psi in MPH. Julio measured it. You'll find it in the alky section.
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What do I look for.
If you have a 3in hose feeding a 2in hose even with a pump where is the biggest restriction? you end up with more PRESSURE and heat but less volume.It would seem to me.
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Well, I got tired of dealing with that stupid roll pin and gave in to a rebuild/machining through Steve monroe. Crazy that a 1$ pin costed me 150$ but at least I'll know the seals will be new and it will flow better.
Deciding if I'm going to port match the doghouse. I was too cheap to send it to him to do and I've never ported anything. I know it'll affect the flow but fuck it. I'll do it another time.
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Can't forget this
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160608/f45dd2da3927d3b7b37ae8cbd6154366.jpg)
Working on a car in az 110° heat makes you improvise.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160608/b841d3fc7e9ba66455f6f9f87a606375.jpg)
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Just got a message from Steve. Great guy, I shipped it out Monday evening, he got it today, did everything and will have it shipped tonight. He also said that my seals were the worst he has EVER seen. That's crazy to think and I'll take it as an honor.
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That will clear up some vacuum leaks for you
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Seals shot on a 29 year old TB. Nah...couldn't be. Steve's TB...and Erics chip...is the best money you'll spend on your car. What stall is that Vig in your car? 2800 or 3200?
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Seals shot on a 29 year old TB. Nah...couldn't be. Steve's TB...and Erics chip...is the best money you'll spend on your car. What stall is that Vig in your car? 2800 or 3200?
3200, I'm wanting to move up to a 6262 but it will not be in the budget for awhile unless a good used one pops up.
What would your car run in the 1/4?
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I think long run it's $$ well spent. Those seals could have made you crazy later on trying to find an air leak.
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I think long run it's $$ well spent. Those seals could have made you crazy later on trying to find an air leak.
^Like^
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I think long run it's $$ well spent. Those seals could have made you crazy later on trying to find an air leak.
I'm happy about it for sure. He even threw in an extra seat of seals.
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That 3200 will spool the 51 like a mad whore...and the slip rate when locked...will check in around 3 to 5 percent slip...so you'll MPH well. If Eric isn't locking the convertor for you via his chip...get one of the guys on here to explain how to hook a switch in the ashtray for you to lock it in high gear.
Jason ran my equivalent to be about 10.3x. The car always picked up 25 mph out the back door...so it would have been about 130...and my home track is far too short to get stopped at that speed.
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That 3200 will spool the 51 like a mad whore...and the slip rate when locked...will check in around 3 to 5 percent slip...so you'll MPH well. If Eric isn't locking the convertor for you via his chip...get one of the guys on here to explain how to hook a switch in the ashtray for you to lock it in high gear.
Jason ran my equivalent to be about 10.3x. The car always picked up 25 mph out the back door...so it would have been about 130...and my home track is far too short to get stopped at that speed.
I'll have to do that. I didn't have Eric burn this new chip for locking but I'll have to install the lock switch.
Pretty sweet. I'm hoping for high 11s.
I bought a used alkycontrol system from a guy but it has double nozzles. I ordered my chip and Eric specifically asked if it was 1 or 2. I put 2.
The reason I'm saying all this is I just purchased a single nozzle as Steve says it easier to tune with and I don't need the other nozzle.
Will the difference in the chip be enough to send the chip back?
Should I just stay with the dual?
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question best answered by Eric, I think. I believe Eric pulls a lot more fuel out of the chip on the ones burned for dual nozzle and that might make the car lean with a single nozzle set up. Single nozzle will run into lower tens with no sweat.
your car should be capable of mid elevens or a bit quicker...if you are that capable :)
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2 nozzles is overkill for your power level. Contact Eric and ask about the difference in his chip for 1 to 2 nozzles...gues sing isn't good. Post on the Parts Wanted section of TB.COM and get yourself an ashtray switch. It's cheap...and makes for a clean install. You can hook your lockup switch in and also line lock. If you have Erics 5.7 alky chip...bump the low gear timing to 129...and it'll go into aggressive mode. No reason you can't run a high 11 with what you have.
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You can make your own line lock...and you don't have to to any flaring or cutting lines. When you're ready...let me know...and I'll post pics of mine. It's so simple...it's scary.
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question best answered by Eric, I think. I believe Eric pulls a lot more fuel out of the chip on the ones burned for dual nozzle and that might make the car lean with a single nozzle set up. Single nozzle will run into lower tens with no sweat.
your car should be capable of mid elevens or a bit quicker...if you are that capable :)
I emailed him. I ordered it a couple days ago so I'm sure he will be able to switch it over to single.
Hopefully I'll be able to do it. As long as I don't flatten a lobe on break in. Lol
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You can make your own line lock...and you don't have to to any flaring or cutting lines. When you're ready...let me know...and I'll post pics of mine. It's so simple...it's scary.
I'll have to take you up on that. I have a b&m line lock kit. I'm weary of brake lines haha never done it and not looking forward to it so if you have a better way I'm absolutely all ears
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I think the roll control units are all the same...with a threaded inlet and outlet. I remove the washer bottle and recycle it. I then mount the roll control unit to the fender where the washer bottle was. Take the roll control unit and visit your friendly parts store and grab an 8 to 10 inch length of premade brake line that screws into the roll control unit. Been awhile, but |I believe it's the rear brake line you unsrew from the MC. Very carefully untwist it and screw the end into the roll control unit. Take your premade brake line and use something round to bend it 90 degrees to line up with the MC...and screw one end into the MC...and the other to the roll control unit. Wire your roll control unit...bleed your front brakes...and you're good to go. I'll stop by the shop tomorrow and get a pic and post it.
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On my Hurst line lock it uses the front brake line so after you hit the brakes & flip the switch "on" the pressure is held in the front brakes so after you let off the pedal the back brakes are free to turn. Maybe yours is different? I don't use a proportioning valve.
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Got my throttlebody back from steve. Looks like a work of art. Blows my mind he could do all of this within receiving and sending it out the same day. Best 135$ spent and it's 62mm so I'm a cool guy now.
Also, did someone say biggie oil adapter
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/bd6d828e708e44424f0335d131e64a39.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/8cf571a68c78810441c27db1dc9a1df9.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/43dbe1a1c6635dac40f44e6c2886533c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/3163d8dda24ded7a5713762613fe4ead.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/000fd4587e8ba450d9822adbc289c1b2.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/f269649f7f3755ee10152a03e46da2b2.jpg)
I think the roll control units are all the same...with a threaded inlet and outlet. I remove the washer bottle and recycle it. I then mount the roll control unit to the fender where the washer bottle was. Take the roll control unit and visit your friendly parts store and grab an 8 to 10 inch length of premade brake line that screws into the roll control unit. Been awhile, but |I believe it's the rear brake line you unsrew from the MC. Very carefully untwist it and screw the end into the roll control unit. Take your premade brake line and use something round to bend it 90 degrees to line up with the MC...and screw one end into the MC...and the other to the roll control unit. Wire your roll control unit...bleed your front brakes...and you're good to go. I'll stop by the shop tomorrow and get a pic and post it.
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Got my throttlebody back from steve. Looks like a work of art. Blows my mind he could do all of this within receiving and sending it out the same day. Best 135$ spent and it's 62mm so I'm a cool guy now.
Also, did someone say biggie oil adapter
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/bd6d828e708e44424f0335d131e64a39.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/8cf571a68c78810441c27db1dc9a1df9.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/43dbe1a1c6635dac40f44e6c2886533c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/3163d8dda24ded7a5713762613fe4ead.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/000fd4587e8ba450d9822adbc289c1b2.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/f269649f7f3755ee10152a03e46da2b2.jpg)
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I've also got a hurst, I don't know why I thought it was a b&m lol
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I can't get these two studs off. I need to get them off to fit my downpipe. The long one won't work with the two bolt method the two bolts just spin together no matter how much I tighten them to each other. I can't do the two bolt method on the short one for obvious reasons. Any help guys?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/0b7184a4abb6a71e70653903a5fe66d4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/dc2224a0023fcd93e19e0fb896f06cf8.jpg)
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Best I have is a vice grip. Or if you have other studs and just want those out put the nut on and hit it with the wirefeed. Then you can pull it with am impact.
I guess I don't understand why double nutting the one doesn't work. Put first nut on, spin second nut on, hold first nut with wrench, tighten second nut with socket n ratchet. Line up the flats so the socket goes over both and pull the stud.
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I agree with the vice-grip & hit it with some PB Blaster or WD-40 & then give it a day to seep into the
threads a bit. Some heat from a propane torch will help as well but you may not even need it.
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I've never been able to put enough heat into anything with a propane torch to make any difference.
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Best I have is a vice grip. Or if you have other studs and just want those out put the nut on and hit it with the wirefeed. Then you can pull it with am impact.
I guess I don't understand why double nutting the one doesn't work. Put first nut on, spin second nut on, hold first nut with wrench, tighten second nut with socket n ratchet. Line up the flats so the socket goes over both and pull the stud.
I've done it exactly hoe you described. Even doused it in pb blaster last night and tried just now. No luck.
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Tried vice grips and nothing
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Could always weld a nut onto that stubborn exhaust stud.
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If you don't have a gas axe, I've used mapp gas to heat things. Get the stud and the surrounding area of the casting hot and hold a candle at the stud and casting to get the wax down in there. It loosens things. I also thread a nut on there and hit it with a hammer to try and jar it loose.
Never seize is some good stuff on things like this that you know will have to come apart eventually.
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Especially nickel antiseize
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The young man maybe in for a fight. Those bolts...withou t antiseize...wi ll damn near weld themselves in.
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Like Rich said, use Mapp gas & Oxygen. If you don't have a set, I would invest in one and they're fairly cheap. Very handy around the shop for stuff like this. Mine were seized in as well and I heated them, focusing on the housing mostly. Came out fine, be patient.
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Yep, the gas axe is the tool of choice for rusty fasteners. Get the housing all cherry red with a rose bud tip and they'll come out. Take it to a good muffler shop along with a 12 pack around quittin' time, they'll have em out before you know it.
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I agree with Rich. Take it to your fav muffler shop. Beer will get them out in a hurry. I have a muffler shop here in town that looks after stuff like that for me.
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Well, I borrowed my friends welder. I'm going to try welding the nut to it as I don't need the studs. I'll try that, if no luck I'll reluctantly take the turbo off and bring it to a exhaust shop
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After they break off by flush,
you can take it to a machine shop
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Then you can get some left handed drill bits and get to drillin em out. Make sure you center it well with the small bit.
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After that, you can buy a new turbo
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After they break off by flush,
you can take it to a machine shop
Fuck me right... my temper is way to short for my impatience. You can probably guess. If not, we'll, I'll be at an exhaust shop in the next couple days.
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So did a little work on the car.
Installed caspers upgraded positive cable with relocated fuse links.
Caspers ground relocation
Knock sensor connector
Oil light connector
Fan relay connectors and relays
Fun stuff.
Haven't touched the turbo. I'm giving it the silent treatment. I'll probably remove it tomorrow and bring it to a shop on friday.
Ordered the stainless braided lines and an fittings for the transmission cooler today. A bit more expensive than originally though but oh well.
I have a 12 x 12 b&m(?) Trans cooler. That size should suffice, correct? Any justifiable reason to go bigger?
:)
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No...that one should do the trick...don't mount it flush to the radiator as that will further hurt air flow...put it on the cross bars in front of the radiator so it is an inch or two in front of the radiator core
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Like Steve said. If you're racing I'd recommend a trans temp gauge. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions. ..and it skyrockets when you put the trans up against the footbrake. It's gotten to the point where I let the other guy fully stage first...before I fully stage. Keeps the heat down.
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Like Steve said. If you're racing I'd recommend a trans temp gauge. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions. ..and it skyrockets when you put the trans up against the footbrake. It's gotten to the point where I let the other guy fully stage first...before I fully stage. Keeps the heat down.
I'll have to see how I can plumb that into the cooler system. Not quite sure.
20$ later
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/cee656ef7be34b2cae4bb91bf620c2cd.jpg)
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As Steve mentioned before hit those with anti-seize before they get torqued down.
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Note that I said the Nickle form of anti-seize...not the regular or the copper versions :)
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http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/per/per_77124.jpg (http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/per/per_77124.jpg)(http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/per/per_77124.jpg)
Goodness, they are proud of that stuff.
I just get the regular grey stuff, and i'm so cheap I generally cut it with some kerosene.
What does the nickel stuff do that the copper or aluminum stuff doesn't?
(http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/per/80078c.jpg) or this when I was moving and couldnt find the can of the first stuff.
(http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/ver/13109.jpg) I also have this in my coffee can of antiseize
(http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/ver/13010.jpg)
See how far twenty goes getting busted studs out. When better than wrastlin with it.
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survives much higher temperatures so you can get things loose easier afer it has been heat soaked for a few years
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The Autometer trans temp simply has a brass tee. I just plumbed it into the rubber line for the B and M transcooler I have.
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survives much higher temperatures so you can get things loose easier afer it has been heat soaked for a few years
So, couldn't find nickel, but I found aluminum and it's rated up to 1800 iirc. I used that.
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The Autometer trans temp simply has a brass tee. I just plumbed it into the rubber line for the B and M transcooler I have.
I'm going to definitely do that. I've got all these gauges, might as well have at least 1 for the transmission.
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Alright guys. It's been a long process but I think the time has come to drop the motor in, and probably by the end of day tomorrow have it running.
I just sat out in the garage staring at it for an hour while checking every bolt I could access.
I rented a oil pump primer from autozone. Didn't hook it up to and oil pressure gauge as mine aren't mechanical and I'll just do that when I have all the connections hooked up.
Anyone want to type up a checklist for before startup? If not, that's fine. I know that's a lot to type. All I've really got to do to the motor is throw the flex plate on and torque it down, prime it one more time, and set the cam sensor.
Any advice is welcome! Thanks guys for all the help you have given me.
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You'll know it's primed when the drill 'grabs'.
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It's a good idea to prime a few seconds, turn the crank a quarter turn, prime another few seconds, turn another quarter, prime,turn and so on. That gets oil every where
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You can also set the Cam sensor on the stand with Caspers tool.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/9d2b72bba88ce85b56e59278a81cb229.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/f1c7d5a6a318c954a91b8790bf93580e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/1fc489e110f6e84adea5c8b0b641688e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/6072740e00831b487287070762c9ae65.jpg)
Well there you have it. Just a couple of things to button up and the neighbors should hate me for the 25 minute break in, tomorrow afternoon.
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Like :)
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If they want their junk worked on they can be ok with your break in.
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Well, got everything ready. All I had to do was hook up the starter remote wire, plug in the battery, do all precautionary checks and start her up. That was until the fucking piece of shut remote stud on the starter decided to break off. Now I have to either replace the starter, or fix it. The starter that Charlie said would be fine as a mini starter was not close to the flex plate by any means so the stocker was in there.
I also need to repair some drywall
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Well hell!
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Well, Earl to the rescue.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/f4960676d1b6f341505a066aaf344f60.jpg)
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I always thought that any chevy starter would fit...some chevies have a larger diameter flex plate and a few more teeth but I thought they would still interchange.
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Get some shims in the off chance you need them.
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You might be right Steve. I think its an LT1 starter I have in mine.
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This is the one I bought. I even double checked with charlie.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/b505d723c7bb32c95b4ddc067a9e08c4.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/1eafd02ef7d6665b3ac7398972314370.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160621/7a91a54fef1dda9ff7048ea199d9cee4.jpg)
Oh well, mistakes happen. Anyone have a v8 and want a new mini starter?
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So, it's been awhile since the last update. I bought a starter from Earl. Had some issues but they were my fault. Got her started up. Ran her for 30 min at 2500-3000rpm. Everything was good. No leaks, all pushrods spun. Turned her off for a couple minutes to get her ready to take out for her maiden voyage. She won't start back up. No ses light when the key is in the on position but traced it back to what is most likely a bad bulb. No spark and no injector pulse which leads me to believe that it's the ignition module or the crank sensor and last possibly the ecm.
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Does it have fuel pressure?
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Check Steves site. He likely has a no start 'tree'. Be patient...and go through the checks.
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That sucks but don't set it on fire because I know it sure is tempting at times! :068:
Did you get the bulb working again?
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Check the CCCU fuse
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Does it have fuel pressure?
Yes, it's at 40
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Check Steves site. He likely has a no start 'tree'. Be patient...and go through the checks.
Yep, he's been very helpful. We're down to crank sensor or ignition module
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That sucks but don't set it on fire because I know it sure is tempting at times! :068:
Did you get the bulb working again?
No, not yet.
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Check the CCCU fuse
All fuses under the dash are good.
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The coil has good ohms across the post(11-13k ohms I believe)?
Not sure how to check the crank sensor with a meter. I would guess something happens as the hall effect thing crosses the sensor in there .
With the noid light does it flash when you crank the engine over?
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He has no spark, he has no injector pulse, he has no SES light. If he followed the tree correctly and that is a giant IF, the SES bulb is burned out.
If the bulb is burned out, then it would seem to be the crank sensor or the ignition module.
Car cranked right up and he broke the cam in. Turned it off and nothing happens now. Said it idled smoothly and he did not hear any noises. Now, his electric oil pressure gauge barely moves when he cranks it over. He does not remember if he checked oil pressure while it was running.
All the fuses seem good, battery is charged, has power at the ecm on the wires that are concerned as I understand it.
Said he had ordered a BW module (pos) and a crank sensor. Don't know if he has gotten them in yet. Last I left him, he was going thru the no start tree but I don't know what happened with that endeavor.
He does not know if the SES light worked before.
I had one guy that spent two months assuring me that the SES bulb would not come on when you shorted it out to complete the power and it was burnt out....strange ly, it worked fine when he finally tried a different ecm and the car started right up and the bulb was miraculously restored with a filament that now works.
Another guy spent three months getting mad at me because I kept asking him if he was sure if he had injector pulse and yes, he did! He went thru the tree and everything worked exactly as it was supposed to. I have never figured out how he had injector pulse when the cam sensor was not turning because the oil pump had seized up and sheared the roll pin that holes the gear in place on the cam sensor shaft...or how he could swear it was turning when he went out of his way to check it for me after I kept asking about it.
these days, I don't believe anything unless I actually see it with my own eyes..and then I doubt myself :D
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My first thought on a deal like this is the injector harness might have gotten burned on the egr. Look there on the driver side of the intake and check the ecm fuse again. Could be something else burned as it started but then didn't after it got hot. I cant see how we don't have an ses light. Maybe swap in a known good ecm.
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Not sure if I'll have a whiskey...or a beer. I'll flip a coin. Beer wins. :atbeer:
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Sorry guys. Been away dealing with moving to florida from arizona and not wanting to deal with the car. With the great help of Steve, we were able to get her running. Runs like a dream. Boost builds ridiculously fast. Faster than ever. Jumps from 0-18 in under 1.5 seconds. Thanks everyone for your help. I really appreciate it.
Btw I've been getting on Supersix about how he's completely dropped the ball on his build. He says now that I am hear that he's probably going to have me get his going for him.
Once again, thanks guys!
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So, what kind of problems did you solve to get it running well?
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he had the engine rebuilt while in AZ
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LS swap? ;)