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Messages - Turbodave
31
« on: August 22 2011, 01:47:56 PM »
I know this is heresy, but, let's face it, guys have run into the Nines without a wideband so it is not much of an effort to run safely in the elevens. Some guys bench race theory all day, I prefer to run whatever works for me.
At the moment I am running open loop speed density chips in both cars...I am running open loop because the the wide band failed on both cars so I said to heck with it. One car has the digital side working, but, the analog side which drives fueling is dead. If they die at the wrong time, it can be quite damaging.
With that being said. What would you recommend doing on a run for tuning when the NBO2 reads: 760 right after launch, and peders off to 713 at the end of the run?? It's a gocha question. ;-) My wideband read a steady: 11.40 for the run. NBO2 are terribly unreliable for anything off of stoiceometric. If I had seen 713 back when all I had was a NBO2, I would have been adding fuel. Didn't need it though as can be seen.
32
« on: August 21 2011, 04:52:03 PM »
Bob Bailey designs/builds, Fullthrottle markets/sells.
33
« on: August 21 2011, 11:31:43 AM »
OK, if you don't want to put up with learning how to tune your car that's OK, but no need to badmouth the product, implying there's little to no gain to be had with one.
Especially since you have NO experience with them.
I doubt you're even familiar with all the functions in them.
I didn't bad mouth anything, I said for my application the gains/benefits would be minimal. As I have said repeatedly, this is a street car, *maybe* seeing the track once or twice per year. MAYBE.
Who said I don't want to tune my car? will be running a Translator (Plus, apparently), I have Powerlogger, Scanmaster, and will be running the latest chip from TT. I can tune my T+, Chip, and will be adding a wide band possibly. Using that logic - we should all be running FAST systems.
Great that you love it, but it's not for everyone, and just because people don't want that level of complexity, it doesn't make them morons.
Ya, but you don't need a race car to run the Translator Pro. I quit racing my car several years ago. But I run the Pro because I wanted to be able to run speed density (mafless) for the flow improvement, and tuning additions. And the pro has a ton of other features that are handy to have around. Like fuel pump control, and the nicest one of all is the CLOSED LOOP boost control!! Complete wideband control (if you desire), and if you want to continue to run a MAF the Pro can easilly do that. It's not as big a hassle as most would lead you to believe. Mine ran GREAT right out of the box!! And I enjoy tweaking, so I've got two bin files made, one for speed density, and one for maf. It litteraly only takes about 30 seconds to switch from one to the other and vice versa.
34
« on: August 21 2011, 11:23:09 AM »
I don't see the switches for the different chips. Does it work for all chips...or just for Bobs?
There are no chip select switches. Almost any chip will work with the translator, BUT..... To take advantage of the MAF WOT switch you need to run and Extender chip.
35
« on: August 21 2011, 07:36:53 AM »
OK, if you don't want to put up with learning how to tune your car that's OK, but no need to badmouth the product, implying there's little to no gain to be had with one.
Especially since you have NO experience with them.
I doubt you're even familiar with all the functions in them.
36
« on: August 21 2011, 07:33:47 AM »
I had one of those T+'s also. Ran it for years. Never got the retard feature to quite work right, so I just left the two wires disconnected all these years.
Yes your unit can be upgraded, but takes a new chip (the big one). I upgraded mine last year with a 6.25 chip, and it's still being used succesfully in another car.
Long story short, get an update chip from Bob, and yours should be good to go. Set the retard knob to 0 just in case.
37
« on: August 20 2011, 06:45:44 AM »
Don't even think about it. Next question.
Your in depth commentary has swayed my decision.
After researching it a bit, there would be very little gain, and a lot of work.
Oh Really???
38
« on: August 10 2011, 04:35:22 PM »
I tried ordering a chip from Eric...but was unsuccessful. I e-mailed him and he said my computer is blocking cookies from his store. How do I go about allowing cookies in IE 8?
Is there some reason you want to use a browser that does not work?
Just get on with it and set Firefox up and all the problems will go away.
AJ___
Well, sometimes that works, but mostly not Firefox has it's own unique set of problems. It certainly isn't perfect. A little tweak here and another there, and IE works just fine, and is more than safe enough. IE9 works even better. I ran IE8, Firefox, and Chrome all together to test them over a several week period. Firefox was the first one dumped.
39
« on: August 10 2011, 11:56:06 AM »
I turned the key to start the car which ran fine yesterday and I heard a quick shorting out type of noise. Everything seems dead, no check engine light and I have not had a chance to check anything out yet but because the car is blocking the driveway I will get to it tomorrow/today.
I was looking for as much information and sugestions that I could get before crawing all over the car. I will let you guys know what I find. Thanks Bill
Edit: Is there some reason why I was not notified by e-mail that I had responses to my thread? Something I need to change.
Sometimes that type of symptom would indicate a bad connection at the battery. Usually caused by corrosion under the main connector on the positive lead.. Remove them both, clean up the connections real good and give it another try.
40
« on: August 10 2011, 06:45:17 AM »
There is one other possibility. Not as likely, but still a contender, and that's the pressure switch going bad. The one on my 87 went bad a few months ago and it acted quite similar to yours.
41
« on: August 05 2011, 06:46:49 AM »
Unfortunatley none of those counties are in reach. Most are up in the inland empire and northern counties.
As for buying your way through a smog inspection as gordy mentioned, well.... Good luck with that. Aint going to happen.
The first thing the DMV is going to require when you get there is an inspection at the DMV station. Very extensive visual.
Then the dreaded smog inspection (every two years when I left). They are trying to get the old cars off the road by jacking up the allowable levels at every inspection. Makes it much more difficult to pass.
BTW, Palmdale's way up in the high desert about an hour north of LA. Didn't know there was that much up there. What company is up there that called you?
42
« on: August 04 2011, 09:35:33 AM »
I went through the same thing. Retired from the Navy, and took a position in San Diego CA. back in the late 80's
During my 12 years in southern CA. There were some basic items I HAD to have on and functioning properly to get through the smog tests.
A good working cat. converter
A completely funcitonal EGR system
A good smog chip. the best smog chip I came up with was a stock chip from 87, with the injector constant modified to match my injectors.
I've seen some try and do smog chips by taking the stock image and changing a whole bunch of other stuff in them. Truth be told, the 87 chips were the best and don't let your chip guy change ANYTHING except the injector constant.
OH, almost forgot, you gotta get through a visual also!
But if your EGR passages are blocked, you've got a much more serious problem.
I got so tired of dealing with the smog nazis that my layoff in 2002 came as something of a blessing in disguise. I left CA, never to return.
43
« on: July 28 2011, 10:37:48 AM »
I just went down and pulled one out of a spare mc that I have.
It's not easy but can be done. What makes it so difficult is that it's held in place with an O ring.
The tools I used: I have a set of Craftsman torx drivers, the ones that have screwdriver type handles. The torx end of a T10 will fit down inside that hole in the center, and as the trox fins go up the shaft they spread out wider. This makes it easy to stick it down in there and while pushing down I was able to turn that part of the check valve assembly to sorta loosen it up.
Then used a sort of pick device with a bent end to go down inside and pull it up out. Broke the tip off the pick but what was left was stronger, and was able to pull the valve up out.
Once thats up out of the way the small flat disc down inside can be pulled up out with a magnetic probe and will bring the spring with it.
44
« on: July 28 2011, 06:44:18 AM »
I personally haven't pulled one out, but I've seen it done many times at Richard Clark's place. NONE just flew out!! They all had to be pulled.
45
« on: July 27 2011, 01:17:55 PM »
Part numbers 36/37/38
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