Spitting black gobs out exhaust, INT 160, stuff in radiator...fun.

[daveismissing]

multi- point ? better?

[Steve Wood]

Pretty sure it is the Bosch...we used Bosch injectors originally and all the replacement injectors have the Bosch connector

[Steve Wood]

Presume GMPFI means port fuel inj - guessing that noid light

I would guess you would have guessed wrong

Which one is the right one or do I not even have it?

whichever one fits the connector is the right one

[gordyzx9r]

Alright...

The Casper's Audible knock sensor arrived so I took the old one and popped in the new one.  I noticed when I was getting new laptop setup for the PLC that the PLC wasn't seated properly in the ECM.

And the weather cleared so I took it for a drive...had the PLC recording.

Everything seemed to be fine, oil pressures good, temps good, just taking it easy for about 20 minutes with casual driving.  INT & BLM were sticking around 132-138 (the BL learn was constantly going for some reason).  I also noticed that the vacuum/boost isn't being picked up the by the PLC or the SC, it does have a 3 bar MAP and it was wired for it as I was able to see in the PLC before with the old laptop (but it was off and the settings on the PLC needed to be adjusted).

So, I give it a little gas from a roll in 2nd and get up to around 12 pounds of boost and the alcohol is spraying like it should and no KR.    I do that a couple of times and no issues, everything sounds fine and seems to be running fine. 

Then I notice a the smell of something burning, like plastic or electrical wire...pop the hood, nothing, no smoke inside and can't track it down.  Figure I'd get it home and try to find it but it goes away and I don't smell it.

So just casually driving again in D and BEEEEEPPPP.... 4.5 to 6.0 KR, let off the gas it goes away but I hear a ticking sound, but it sounds like it's coming from underneath me.  Give it a little gas and again with the beep,some KR, and tapping, so let off...put the car in OD.  In OD it seemed to go away and do fine...for a bit then it would knock if I gave it gas above 40-45MPH.  Limp it home, put it in park and let it idle and it sounds fine...

I put a white paper towel to the exhaust and no giant globs of black soot or water coming out anymore.  INT is at 128 now, BLM is at 142 (as usual).  Oil pressure is normal, and temps are still staying under 170.  Have my daughter give it some gas, and I hear that tapping sound again but it really doesn't sound like it's coming from the motor...

I look underneath and find my new exhaust hanger has broken.  I'm really hoping this is what is causing the KR and not something else to come along.  The car felt strong until the KR came along.

 

[gordyzx9r]

Oh...and for some reason, when I went to save the .dat file I hit F8 by mistake and it disconnected which for some reason 'caused it to dump everything I had logged.  Have to do it again when I get a new hangar assembly.  But I do feel better not seeing giant black globs shooting out of the exhaust. 

[Steve Wood]

did you adjust the fuel pressure to make sure it is correct?

the knock sensor will pick up any noise in the 6000 khz range

[gordyzx9r]

did you adjust the fuel pressure to make sure it is correct?

the knock sensor will pick up any noise in the 6000 khz range

Yeah, hose, off, car idling...set it to 43.  It was sitting around 40 before that.

[Steve Wood]

it will probably improve as it learns.  Not far enough off to be concerned about at the moment.

[gordyzx9r]

it will probably improve as it learns.  Not far enough off to be concerned about at the moment.

Do you think that tapping noise and KR I heard were from the broken exhaust hangar letting the pipes clank around?

[Steve Wood]

seems reasonable

[motorhead]

Wow that is some good progress.

[gordyzx9r]

Just downloaded the new PLC software and drivers.  Connects to car. 

PLC version 1.4.0
PL Interface 3.0

What should my settings be on the config page?

On the "Scanmaster Options" of the config panel of the PLC software do I select display MAP, display boost, and auto barometer correction @ key on? 

My scanmaster was updated when I first installed the PL in the car.

I have the 3 BAR MAP and on my old laptop I was able to see vacuum/boost (but it was off a bit).  How do get that to pick up that up again and do I need to adjust the volts to get it to read more accurately?

I don't have a Wideband (yet).

I do have an AEMC Model CA861 K Thermometer EGT installed in the car, but it's not wired into the PL.  How would I do that with that kind of meter?

[Steve Wood]

yes, I would make those selections

the map has to be hooked to the analog input block  http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/PowerLogger.htm  If the five volt supply to the map is not very close to 5.0, then you can do step 2 to get a better voltage supply.  We usually get caught between the accuracy of the boost gauge which may not be all that....and the accuracy of the maf which may not be all that either.   Believe you can tweak the voltage on the input page if you want to pretend the gauge is the accurate source.

There was an adapter initially that would make the egt read out, but, I think the source dried up...you can check on the FT support forum to see if anyone came up with a replacement

With a TT chip, you select the 256 maf setting and the three bar map setting

[gordyzx9r]

yes, I would make those selections
 
 the map has to be hooked to the analog input block  http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/PowerLogger.htm  If the five volt supply to the map is not very close to 5.0, then you can do step 2 to get a better voltage supply.  We usually get caught between the accuracy of the boost gauge which may not be all that....and the accuracy of the maf which may not be all that either.   Believe you can tweak the voltage on the input page if you want to pretend the gauge is the accurate source.
 
 There was an adapter initially that would make the egt read out, but, I think the source dried up...you can check on the FT support forum to see if anyone came up with a replacement
 
 With a TT chip, you select the 256 maf setting and the three bar map setting
 

 That page brought back some memories...it's what I used when I originally installed it.  Just went and checked and that's how it's wired up. 

[Steve Wood]

so it should work if it is wired up, map is good, etc.  Did you take your meter and see if you had a voltage on the wire from the map to the pl input block when the key is on as I mentioned on the page?  Check for 5.0 volts on the gray wire to the map when key is on?  Map ground wire is good?