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Messages - Joel Russo
16
« on: November 09 2014, 08:47:48 PM »
PCV was clean.
17
« on: November 09 2014, 06:25:51 PM »
I have a small KN filter on the end of the valve cover, and capped the inlet to the turbo.
The PVC valve rattles when I shake it.
I removed the up pipe from the intercooler, and it was relatively dry. I rubbed my finger in it to show that there is a bit of oil build up. See pic.
The throttle body is completely dry. See pic.
Won't be able to do the leak down until later in the week.
18
« on: November 09 2014, 07:12:48 AM »
Had the car out for a run yesterday, couldn't resist a sunny 45* day. When I returned home, I pulled on the driveway...let it idle.... while I moved a few bicycles from in front of the GN stall door..
As I walked toward the car, I noticed "smoke" coming out of the exhaust. Looked to be typical bluish in color and had the smell of burning oil. I checked temp gauge and it was 165*, which is where it was while I was out for the run. I blipped the throttle and the smoke briefly went away until in came back to idle rpm, and then it came out of the exhaust again.
I did not notice it while driving or stopping while I was out on the road, but then again, I wasn't looking for it.
Stock unopened '87 GN with 14k on the clock..
Do I need to replace valve seals, or do I have a issue somewhere else?
19
« on: June 26 2014, 08:07:35 PM »
Looks Good!! Are the moldings all 6 pieces with fender-door-quarter panel? I tossed mine many years ago & regret not keeping them. Kirban has some that are 90% correct with Chrome look edges but the black vinyl texture in the centre is not 100% correct & from memory they may be 1/16" wider? Haven't been on his site for at least a few years now.
If I were you I would keep them. Not like they are worth a lot of $$ but you can maybe help someone one day down the road. 
They were the 6 piece design you described, and I only kept the long door pieces. If someone on here wants/needs them, I'll be happy to give them up for the cost of shipping them.
20
« on: June 25 2014, 12:29:04 PM »
Wow.. That looks GREAT!
I don't plan on using door molding or wheelwell moldings on the GN. I have the front wheelwell moldings off, and I really like the clean look.
I just wet sanded the rear quarters and sail panels and took the wheel moldings off. I think I may take the fronts off and go with the clean look as well.
21
« on: November 21 2013, 02:21:17 PM »
Performance wise....and for street use, would it be better to bypass the Hotwire?
22
« on: November 21 2013, 01:13:58 PM »
If you installed one of the higher output pumps like the TT pump that Eric sells, then it may not be large enuf.
I blew air through the line and still have the same result with the Hotwire hooked up. I bought the fuel pump from Eric at TT, it is a Walbro 255. I can't remember which way I positioned the sock, but I believe it was correct as it's easier to insert he hangar that way.
23
« on: November 21 2013, 11:33:00 AM »
First off, thanks for your diligence in trying to help me figure this out.
If I remove the line that connects to the regulator and to the tank at the rear, and blow air into it, is that not the feed line? I thought this was a return issue.
If the fp drops correctly with the vac line off bypassing the Hotwire, then does not drop when the Hotwire is connected, is there a blockage or is the return line not adequate to handle the amount of fuel being returned under the Hotwire?
Don't know if it's out of line, but I can be reach by phone if it's easier...
717-805-0940
24
« on: November 21 2013, 10:15:29 AM »
Just put the car up and checked the lines. Return line does not have any kinks, and it is connected at the correct location at the tank. 
25
« on: November 21 2013, 09:42:07 AM »
its not the regulator , its the return line cant flow back what the hotwired walbro is supplying
im sure if you bypass the hotwire at the tank by plugging the pump back into the factory harness youll see the pressure drops
try opening up the return line ends (the opening of the saginaw ends) with an awl or a small drill bit , and check the line at the axle and tank for kinks
I bypassed the Hotwire and pressure reads 40 psi with the hose off, and 34 psi with the hose on. Looks like the issue is when I have the Hotwire connected. So where do I go from here. If I want to run the Hotwire is there an issue if I set the pressure at 43 psi with the hose off?
26
« on: November 21 2013, 07:54:51 AM »
I pulled the Accufab apart and did not find a tear in the diaphragm. Looked like the spring was in good order as well.
I also pulled apart the Kenne Bell regulator that I replaced with the Accufab, and did not find anything wrong with it either.
I did notice that the vacuume port on the Accufab is quite a bit smaller inside diameter than the Kenne Bell.
Okay, so now what do I do? Set pressure at 43 psi with vacuume line off and head down the road, or replace with the KB and see if pressure drops when I connect the vac line?
27
« on: November 20 2013, 04:44:30 PM »
Steve~ I read vacuume on the line going to the regulator. I did not take the Accufab apart yet, I'll do it tomorrow. What am I looking for in terms of a "bad regulator"?
28
« on: November 20 2013, 03:18:02 PM »
A bit of a follow up on this issue.
I bought a new Fuel pressure gauge for the hood mount, and it reads 42 psi with the vac line off the fp regulator. Looks like the old gauge was not accurate... I also bought a vacuume gauge to see if I had poor vacuume. I pulled the hose off the regulator and read 19" of vacuume.
When I put the hose back on the regulator, the fuel pressure only drops 1/2 to 1 psi.
PacecarTA said " so if you have 18in/hg of vac on your gauge the pressure should drop 9psi (if satic was 44 new pressure should be 35) but dont expect that to happen on a stock return line with a hotwired 255lph pump "
I have a Walbro 255, Hotwire kit, and stock return line... Am I good, or should I swap in a different regulator?
29
« on: November 17 2013, 07:37:20 AM »
Looks like there's no real downside to upgrading the springs.... On the "to do" list for the winter.
Thanks guys!
30
« on: November 15 2013, 08:33:39 PM »
My boost gauge does not read vacuum. I ordered a new Pro Comp liquid filled fp gauge today, so I'll swap it in and see what pressure it reads. If it still reads high, I'll take the Accufab apart and inspect.
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