IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: gordyzx9r on August 17 2012, 07:36:05 PM
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So...because of work and family, I couldn't get to the GN for a month and it sat in the garage. Finally get some time to finish braking it in, and guess what...it won't start. Battery is dead. Go to jump it and holy shit, the audible knock sensor is screaming with just the key on (car not running). Turn the car on, it starts and seems to be running fine...the audible knock sensor still blaring away but nothing on the SM. I didn't wire in the KR sensor so I have no idea WTF wires are where so I let the damn thing eat itself and eventually it dies. So I take the car out because I still haven't broken it in yet and don't want it to idle.
Nice normal drive, no smoke, nothing. Inside the temps and pressures are good. The TPS is off at .38 and the BL is high around 138-140.
So I get it home and go to put it in the garage when I notice that it had been spitting out giant black gobs of who knows what the hell with water out of both exhaust pipes. It didn't feel like oil, it was like giant flakes of carbon or something. So I clean that up and go to put it in the garage and notice that the INT is 160. WTF!?! It's never done that before.
Pop the hood, then I notice the overflow tank looks like it's full of dirty water. Open that up and it's brown and green. Wait a bit, take off the radiator cap and it's bright green with what looks like a brown/yellow halo. I drain out the overflow tank and it's full of sludge and sediment? Probably at least half a cup of brown mud and sediment. But it's not oil, it's almost like sand. Bill said he always puts in GM stop leak tabs and thinks that it's maybe that, or maybe when they cleaned the block the cast iron got some rust on it and it's getting flushed out?
Just because I'm curious, I decide to check the FP while I'm under the hood...hook the two wires up together and fuel starts spraying out of the fuel line tap (http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/images/102071/102071-320.jpg) from the shaft that goes into the bolt that connects to the rail. So I take that off, take the cap off the schrader valve and put it on the fuel rail for now. I ordered a new Fuel Line Tap Schrader Tee 1/4" ACESS VALVE from Caspers today. I imagine it was leaking like that the whole time I was driving it. Could that somehow have lead to the high INT and this black soot that's coming out of the exhaust?
So, I'm about to check the plugs and the plug wires...hoping that all the plugs look normal.
Bill is thinking I need to do a compression test. I don't think I blew a head gasket as the temps are fine, it's not a milk shake or white...it's just freaking dirty and filled with some kind of sediment (from the stop leak tabs?). I have a 10 gallon air tank and a compression tester kit that I have yet to take out of the package and he seems to think he can talk me through it over the phone. I also have a set of noid lights, but not sure which one I'm supposed to use as there is a set...see picture.
Man I wish I lived near someone with some sense of mechanical skills and some knowledge about these cars...
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Also, I took the Sears Die Hard battery out and grab that Optima Red Top that was in the trunk of the white T-Type I bought to get tested, they both had bad cells (go figure). So I bought another Optima Red Top for the GN.
I need to get the instructions downloaded for that audible knock sensor and rip it out, I ordered a new one of those as well from Caspers. While I'm down there, I need to rewire the pre-luber from a BAT fuse to an IGN fuse, is there a limit to how many things you can power in the IGN fuse. What about using the wiring block that came with the Power Logger, can I use that instead of the IGN in the fuse box?
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I also ordered a new radiator for the GN because Bill blocked off the oil cooler and transmission cooler after the first motor went south.
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I would guess the black gobs out the tail pipe are the results of condensation in the exhaust and from the car being parked awhile.
The TPS is fine...
I would ignore the ints and look at the blms which are what really count. It is adding a little bit of fuel to a perceived slightly lean condition. This may be because the battery was dead and the ecm is relearning which it will get under control after some driving.
I am guessing that it is the GM tabs that have floated to the top and got pushed into the reservoir-particularly if the car is running good, the oil does not look like latte, and there is not water being pushed out the overflow, nor dripping on the floor from around the heads, and the temps are normal.
IGN 1 is a 20 amp fuse, IGN3 is 25 amps so if the fuse blows (st blt/acc for the first and AC for the second, you put too much load on the terminal in question.
No to using the PL analog block.
I would leave the radiator alone, buy a B&M Supercooler for the tranny and forget the engine cooler. I hope he did not block off the oil cooler but instead, removed the oil cooler adapter from behind the filter. Blocking the ports in the adapter will force all the oil thru the bypass and I think that will reduce oil flow as I look at the piece.
You need to hire me as a GN Financial Consultant because you are a vendor's dream and I would have saved you half of what you bought :D
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Just read the installation instructions for the audible knock sensor...it gets it's power from the ECM.
Why the heck would this thing go off and stay on then and burn itself out? Could a battery with a bad cell really cause that to happen? When I had that bad battery in it and driving it, the SM showed like 12.2V, with this new battery it's showing 13.9/14.0.
And while I'm down there, where the heck is that audible door chime/black cigarette box looking thing at? I've got a new and going to change that out as well.
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The door chime box is just to the right of the instrument cluster when looking at the cluster from the drivers seat....it is about 99% hidden from view when you are laying in the floor looking up under the dash
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Forgot to mention, when I was driving it with the bad battery in it...the lights were real funky. The blinkers would blink in sequence not simultaneously up front. Never realized a bad battery could do all of that.
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I think I found the audible chime box...but holy crap, how do you get it out!?! I can't feel a release clip for it.
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here is a thread that might help some...I did mine afterward and did not take the cluster out...think I used a small screw driver to pop the latch up so it would come out...when you plug it back in, it pops into the connector and then the latch clicks into the hole....I may have used an inspection mirror to see the latch...then I knew what to do
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/42958-convenience-center-chime-module.html (http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/42958-convenience-center-chime-module.html)
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here is a thread that might help some...
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/42958-convenience-center-chime-module.html (http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/42958-convenience-center-chime-module.html)
That thread is like old-home-week. Steve, David, Earl, gay porn?
:rofl:
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here is a thread that might help some...I did mine afterward and did not take the cluster out...think I used a small screw driver to pop the latch up so it would come out...when you plug it back in, it pops into the connector and then the latch clicks into the hole....I may have used an inspection mirror to see the latch...then I knew what to do
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/42958-convenience-center-chime-module.html (http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/42958-convenience-center-chime-module.html)
That helped...that little tang is a tough little mother !@!$$%& to get a hold of. It's out. Now to put the other one in.
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That's easy. Just press it in
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That's easy. Just press it in
Holy crap that thing is loud...huge difference.
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Fuel pressure...
Just checked it, it's at 36.
Shouldn't it be 38 to 39 PSI w/car not running (plug in wire w/o car running to check)?
To check with car running, plug the vacuum line.
In = More pressure.
Out = Less pressure.
But what exactly am I adjusting to make those corrections?
The tall metal screw on the top of the FPR?
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the fuel pressure should be checked with the engine running and the hose removed from the regulator. If you have a TT chip, then it should be adjusted to 43 psi. If you have a Bob B chip, then adjust it to whatever his instructions state.
Loosen the lock nut slightly on the threaded stud coming out of the top of the regulator and turn the stud.... tightening will raise pressure, loosening will lower. recinch the locknut once finished.
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The hose on the top of the FPR next to the stud?
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yep...the rubber elbow off the metal line...only hose going to the regulator
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Hey I'm a pilot...we're known to just randomly press buttons and move levers and stuff and then as ask "I wonder what this does".
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I have flown with some French chopper pilots in the jungle that would be happy to show you what those buttons do just to hear you scream
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but, they were nothing to the Aussie ex-nam recon pilots that I flew in the Outback with in the 70's. I still don't know if they were simply drunk, or totally insane
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Checked all the plugs, they're good. Got my PLC software working on this computer and communicating with the car...but there are t-storms and rain today so I'll have to wait until I can take it out to drive.
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Are you wearing the t-shirt you got from me? It has super powers, you know?
The low fuel pressure could be contributing to the high INTs.
INT: integrator, aka short term fuel trim, is a value the PCM uses to adjust the injector pulsewidth based on the current oxygen sensor feedback. INTs usually change very rapidly, as in many times per second. An INT of 128 means that the PCM is calculating the right injector pulsewidth for the current conditions. An INT below 128 means that the PCM has to take out fuel to get the mixture right (the PCM calibration is too rich). An INT above 128 means that the PCM has to add fuel to get the mixture right (the PCM calibration is too lean).
I bet if you raise the fuel pressure to spec this should level off some. The other possibility is a vacuum leak or injectors that are out of spec for the chip.
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I would leave the radiator alone, buy a B&M Supercooler for the tranny and forget the engine cooler. I hope he did not block off the oil cooler but instead, removed the oil cooler adapter from behind the filter. Blocking the ports in the adapter will force all the oil thru the bypass and I think that will reduce oil flow as I look at the piece.
I Have a B&M cooler.
Not sure what you mean about the oil cooler. It has a remote oil filler and a pre-luber on it now, where should I look to see what he did and did not block off.
Radiator has already shipped and to be honest, it's a quirk with me...I want the engine and transmission cooler.
You need to hire me as a GN Financial Consultant because you are a vendor's dream and I would have saved you half of what you bought :D
If you opened a shop it would become a mecca...I know I'd make that drive.
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Are you wearing the t-shirt you got from me? It has super powers, you know?
The low fuel pressure could be contributing to the high INTs.
INT: integrator, aka short term fuel trim, is a value the PCM uses to adjust the injector pulsewidth based on the current oxygen sensor feedback. INTs usually change very rapidly, as in many times per second. An INT of 128 means that the PCM is calculating the right injector pulsewidth for the current conditions. An INT below 128 means that the PCM has to take out fuel to get the mixture right (the PCM calibration is too rich). An INT above 128 means that the PCM has to add fuel to get the mixture right (the PCM calibration is too lean).
I bet if you raise the fuel pressure to spec this should level off some. The other possibility is a vacuum leak or injectors that are out of spec for the chip.
I haven't worn it yet...but it does look good.
Raised the FP last night to around 43.
I'll check the vacuum lines but I just replaced all of those within the last year or so.
I have noid lights, but which one do I use? See pics on 1st page.
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If you have a remote tranny cooler, you should not need the one in the radiator unless the external cooler is tiny and I doubt that.
Unless you are roadracing the car, or similar abuse, they can do without an external oil cooler, or the one in the radiator.
Look at the second and third pictures http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm) That is the stock oil cooler adapter. If you plug those two fittings, it will force all the oil to circulate thru the bypass which is somewhat restrictive before it gets to the oil filter. If you are not using a oil cooler, you can remove that adapter, or you can loop the hoses to connect the two fittings.
I would guess that he removed it when he installed the remote filter, but without looking at it, I have no clue.
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Presume GMPFI means port fuel inj - guessing that noid light
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If you have a remote tranny cooler, you should not need the one in the radiator unless the external cooler is tiny and I doubt that.
It's a B&M Supercooler that I got from ATR years and years ago.
Unless you are roadracing the car, or similar abuse, they can do without an external oil cooler, or the one in the radiator.
Well, that was kinda what I wanted to do with it... :icon_madu:
Look at the first and second pictures http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm) That is the stock oil cooler adapter. If you plug those two fittings, it will force all the oil to circulate thru the bypass which is somewhat restrictive before it gets to the oil filter. If you are not using a oil cooler, you can remove that adapter, or you can loop the hoses to connect the two fittings.
I would guess that he removed it when he installed the remote filter, but without looking at it, I have no clue.
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Presume GMPFI means port fuel inj - guessing that noid light
I would guess you would have guessed wrong :)
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If you have a remote tranny cooler, you should not need the one in the radiator unless the external cooler is tiny and I doubt that.
It's a B&M Supercooler that I got from ATR years and years ago.
Unless you are roadracing the car, or similar abuse, they can do without an external oil cooler, or the one in the radiator.
Well, that was kinda what I wanted to do with it... :icon_madu:
Look at the first and second pictures http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/frontcover.htm) That is the stock oil cooler adapter. If you plug those two fittings, it will force all the oil to circulate thru the bypass which is somewhat restrictive before it gets to the oil filter. If you are not using a oil cooler, you can remove that adapter, or you can loop the hoses to connect the two fittings.
I would guess that he removed it when he installed the remote filter, but without looking at it, I have no clue.
Then I suggest a large external oil cooler
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Presume GMPFI means port fuel inj - guessing that noid light
I would guess you would have guessed wrong :)
Which one is the right one or do I not even have it?
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multi- point ? better?
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Pretty sure it is the Bosch...we used Bosch injectors originally and all the replacement injectors have the Bosch connector
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Presume GMPFI means port fuel inj - guessing that noid light
I would guess you would have guessed wrong :)
Which one is the right one or do I not even have it?
whichever one fits the connector is the right one
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Alright...
The Casper's Audible knock sensor arrived so I took the old one and popped in the new one. I noticed when I was getting new laptop setup for the PLC that the PLC wasn't seated properly in the ECM.
And the weather cleared so I took it for a drive...had the PLC recording.
Everything seemed to be fine, oil pressures good, temps good, just taking it easy for about 20 minutes with casual driving. INT & BLM were sticking around 132-138 (the BL learn was constantly going for some reason). I also noticed that the vacuum/boost isn't being picked up the by the PLC or the SC, it does have a 3 bar MAP and it was wired for it as I was able to see in the PLC before with the old laptop (but it was off and the settings on the PLC needed to be adjusted).
So, I give it a little gas from a roll in 2nd and get up to around 12 pounds of boost and the alcohol is spraying like it should and no KR. I do that a couple of times and no issues, everything sounds fine and seems to be running fine.
Then I notice a the smell of something burning, like plastic or electrical wire...pop the hood, nothing, no smoke inside and can't track it down. Figure I'd get it home and try to find it but it goes away and I don't smell it.
So just casually driving again in D and BEEEEEPPPP.... 4.5 to 6.0 KR, let off the gas it goes away but I hear a ticking sound, but it sounds like it's coming from underneath me. Give it a little gas and again with the beep,some KR, and tapping, so let off...put the car in OD. In OD it seemed to go away and do fine...for a bit then it would knock if I gave it gas above 40-45MPH. Limp it home, put it in park and let it idle and it sounds fine...
I put a white paper towel to the exhaust and no giant globs of black soot or water coming out anymore. INT is at 128 now, BLM is at 142 (as usual). Oil pressure is normal, and temps are still staying under 170. Have my daughter give it some gas, and I hear that tapping sound again but it really doesn't sound like it's coming from the motor...
I look underneath and find my new exhaust hanger has broken. I'm really hoping this is what is causing the KR and not something else to come along. The car felt strong until the KR came along.
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Oh...and for some reason, when I went to save the .dat file I hit F8 by mistake and it disconnected which for some reason 'caused it to dump everything I had logged. Have to do it again when I get a new hangar assembly. But I do feel better not seeing giant black globs shooting out of the exhaust.
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did you adjust the fuel pressure to make sure it is correct?
the knock sensor will pick up any noise in the 6000 khz range
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did you adjust the fuel pressure to make sure it is correct?
the knock sensor will pick up any noise in the 6000 khz range
Yeah, hose, off, car idling...set it to 43. It was sitting around 40 before that.
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it will probably improve as it learns. Not far enough off to be concerned about at the moment.
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it will probably improve as it learns. Not far enough off to be concerned about at the moment.
Do you think that tapping noise and KR I heard were from the broken exhaust hangar letting the pipes clank around?
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seems reasonable
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Wow that is some good progress.
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Just downloaded the new PLC software and drivers. Connects to car.
PLC version 1.4.0
PL Interface 3.0
What should my settings be on the config page?
On the "Scanmaster Options" of the config panel of the PLC software do I select display MAP, display boost, and auto barometer correction @ key on?
My scanmaster was updated when I first installed the PL in the car.
I have the 3 BAR MAP and on my old laptop I was able to see vacuum/boost (but it was off a bit). How do get that to pick up that up again and do I need to adjust the volts to get it to read more accurately?
I don't have a Wideband (yet).
I do have an AEMC Model CA861 K Thermometer EGT installed in the car, but it's not wired into the PL. How would I do that with that kind of meter?
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yes, I would make those selections
the map has to be hooked to the analog input block http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/PowerLogger.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/PowerLogger.htm) If the five volt supply to the map is not very close to 5.0, then you can do step 2 to get a better voltage supply. We usually get caught between the accuracy of the boost gauge which may not be all that....and the accuracy of the maf which may not be all that either. Believe you can tweak the voltage on the input page if you want to pretend the gauge is the accurate source.
There was an adapter initially that would make the egt read out, but, I think the source dried up...you can check on the FT support forum to see if anyone came up with a replacement
With a TT chip, you select the 256 maf setting and the three bar map setting
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yes, I would make those selections
the map has to be hooked to the analog input block http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/PowerLogger.htm (http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/PowerLogger.htm) If the five volt supply to the map is not very close to 5.0, then you can do step 2 to get a better voltage supply. We usually get caught between the accuracy of the boost gauge which may not be all that....and the accuracy of the maf which may not be all that either. Believe you can tweak the voltage on the input page if you want to pretend the gauge is the accurate source.
There was an adapter initially that would make the egt read out, but, I think the source dried up...you can check on the FT support forum to see if anyone came up with a replacement
With a TT chip, you select the 256 maf setting and the three bar map setting
That page brought back some memories...it's what I used when I originally installed it. Just went and checked and that's how it's wired up.
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so it should work if it is wired up, map is good, etc. Did you take your meter and see if you had a voltage on the wire from the map to the pl input block when the key is on as I mentioned on the page? Check for 5.0 volts on the gray wire to the map when key is on? Map ground wire is good?
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so it should work if it is wired up, map is good, etc. Did you take your meter and see if you had a voltage on the wire from the map to the pl input block when the key is on as I mentioned on the page? Check for 5.0 volts on the gray wire to the map when key is on? Map ground wire is good?
Well I thought it did...I remember using your page to put this together. Went and checked it today and I got 0 volts at the PL input block. So, I tore off all of the electrical tape to make sure I tapped into the right wire or to see if had somehow broke where I soddered it together. As soon as I ripped off all the electrical tape...I got 1.59 at the PL input block and 5.03 at the grey wire of the MAP (the ground is good too). I taped it back up (not nearly as much, I must have used damn near a whole roll before) and re-checked it, still good.
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Just looking the fuel regulator & something caught my eye. That looks like the home made adjustable top from a stocker. I have that kit here (was given to me) & it looks the same.
No writing & a big round top that's installed after the top is cut off the stock unit.
Never seen one assembled before but $10 says thats the same top that was given to me.
I know it's not an old adjustable Bosch because I also have one of them here.
The 4 side screws are what caught my eye.
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Just looking the fuel regulator & something caught my eye. That looks like the home made adjustable top from a stocker. I have that kit here (was given to me) & it looks the same.
No writing & a big round top that's installed after the top is cut off the stock unit.
Never seen one assembled before but $10 says thats the same top that was given to me.
I know it's not an old adjustable Bosch because I also have one of them here.
The 4 side screws are what caught my eye.
It was purchased from ATR in 2004.
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Maybe the Kit copied ATR?? I got it many years ago? :chin:
Either way they look Very Similar with the 4 screws & that top.
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one of my cars has one...lotsa places sold that one
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Well, that didn't go well...
Something is not right. When I first started it there was a little bit of the soot and water again (I was out of town for week so it sat again).
Began to drive it and everything seemed to be fine. I was taking it easy, nothing crazy. Then, the tapping noise started again, couldn't get above 45MPH without the audible KR going off and I saw 4-5 on the SM. Limped it home, the tapping noise got progressively worse as I went. It felt like it was coming from underneath me, like I could feel it in the seat of my pants or at my feet.
At first I didn't think it was doing it at an idle, but I opened the hood and had my wife give it some gas and I swear it's coming from the top of the motor on the passenger side.
Bill wants me to take off the passenger side valve cover and see what the rocker assemblies look like (as if I know what the hell I'm going to be looking at).
If not that, maybe the l/u converter?
I wish I didn't have to drive 5+ hours to find a shop that knows what they're doing...
Oil pressure, water temp, RPM, seemed normal. It's not throwing any codes, it's not smoking.
I've attached what I hope is the .dat file and that it might show what's going on.
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/11/370244/gordy.dat (http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/11/11/370244/gordy.dat)
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so, warm it up til it starts the noise, then pull the valve cover...might be a lifter that won't stay pumped up once hot?
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so, warm it up til it starts the noise, then pull the valve cover...might be a lifter that won't stay pumped up once hot?
Pulling that passenger side valve cover is easier said than done...
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there are a lot of things on these cars that are easier said than done, but, newer cars are even worse :)
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can you feel anything when touching the valve cover?
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I'll try in the morning, what am I feeling for?
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the source of the noise...someth ing banging against the cover or near the interior of the cover
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When you remove the cover look for any scratches or rub marks. Plus the obvious bent push rod etc.
If not there I would go to the converter bolts next.
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How in the hell do you get the rear, bottom, passenger side bolt out of the valve cover!?! These are aftermarket valve covers from Champion, and there is no way that rear bolt is coming out...there isn't enough clearance.
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Did you undo the wire loom clip? 8mm or 10mm? Just under the bottom of loom clip (in the pic) is the bolt head. Pull the loom up & away. Altho with the taller Champions it will be harder, but I have stockers with RJC spacers (for roller rockers) & mine comes off. You could undo the motor mount bolt & jack it up an inch if nothing else works?
Also the back bolt for the VC just needs to be loose & can just sit in the VC as you pull it out.
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Yeah, that's what I figured out...the bolt stays in, lol. It's out. Wasn't that bad once I figured out I didn't have to take the bolt out...outta be fun putting it back on. I took it off, took off the rocker assembly while talking to Bill on the phone. Looked it over, I don't see anything wrong...but the what hell do I know.
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Last pic...
Off to the store to get a torque wrench, I don't have the right one.
35 ft lbs. for the three bolts on the rocker assy?
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Did you run it to see if the noise was coming from the valve train?
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Pertinent torque specs:
http://www.turbobuicks.com/resources/TurboBuicks.com_Torque_Spec.pdf (http://www.turbobuicks.com/resources/TurboBuicks.com_Torque_Spec.pdf)
Attached as well.
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Did you run it to see if the noise was coming from the valve train?
I couldn't tell...I hear noises all the time.
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so we don't know if the noise is coming from that area, or maybe the flexplate as David suggested?
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so we don't know if the noise is coming from that area, or maybe the flexplate as David suggested?
Alright, listened and felt the valve covers with the car running and I didn't hear or feel anything odd. Underneath the car, it's ticking. I taped it and will try to upload it and link to it in a bit.
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As David suggested, check the torque converter bolts to be sure they are tight. Sometimes when the flex plate cracks, it makes noises like a concrete mixer but the cracks can be difficult to see you without removing the converter.
Stethoscope can help
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Alright...so, how do I do that? Is there a way to rotate that flex plate without taking off my hand? Could it be the converter? Is that something I could take off and run to a transmission shop to have them look at?
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Take the inspection cover off, bump the starter as needed so you can see each of the three bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate...put a wrench on each bolt and make sure it is tight....
Don't you live across the lake from NO? You need to call Clay up and beg for help. If you feed him well, and he has some spare time, I bet he would give you a hand....
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Is it just me, or am I seeing witness marks on the rockers from the adjustable pushrod's nuts?
Try and wipe off as much of that moly from the head nuts too. That stuff will clog oil filters.
After I built my 4.1 I popped the pan to do an inspection and there was a think layer of that goop in my oil pan!
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Is it just me, or am I seeing witness marks on the rockers from the adjustable pushrod's nuts?
I see it on two of them but not the others? First 2 pics shows it.
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Damn, you have good eyes! I saw the gouges but I never saw the adjustable nuts...I will plead that I never saw anyone use adjustable push rods for anything other than checking length :D
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Take the inspection cover off, bump the starter as needed so you can see each of the three bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate...put a wrench on each bolt and make sure it is tight....
Don't you live across the lake from NO? You need to call Clay up and beg for help. If you feed him well, and he has some spare time, I bet he would give you a hand....
Nope, I'm still in Southeast Alabama near Dothan...but I trave to NOLA frequently.
Damn, you have good eyes! I saw the gouges but I never saw the adjustable nuts...I will plead that I never saw anyone use adjustable push rods for anything other than checking length :D
I questioned that too when Bill did it, but he said that's what he uses in all his motors.
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to each his own :) I prefer the lighter weight...and I am biased by an Olds engine I had in a '49 Ford that had adjustable rods...and one kept unscrewing and shooting fire out the rear carb
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Come to think of it, in my limited experience, I don't remember seeing adjustable push rods used in TR motors.
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It's almost as if the pushrods hit the exact same spot many times but it should be spinning & hitting many spots?? :chin:
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Come to think of it, in my limited experience, I don't remember seeing adjustable push rods used in TR motors.
I used them for a season but they never did that? maybe the geometry is messed up??
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I can't tell if the tops of the adjustment bolts/nuts are slightly rounded? I see the nicking on the rocker arms..
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z337/Supersix231/index-4.jpg)
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should be able to reinstall the shafts/rockers and then see/feel if the nuts are close to touching..as the engine runs and expands the gaps will close to some extent
Any signs on any of the nuts that they have touched? Particularly on the ones that had the gouged rockers? Does not take much to make a tick sound
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I don't understand...t hey should be doing what?
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I'm thinking it's time I found a TR shop/mechanic that is up to date with these cars and the current technology that's located in the Gulf South region somewhere.
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a couple of rockers looks like they have been scarred. To the nuts on the corresponding push rods show any evidence of contact on the corners of the nuts...??
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I'm thinking it's time I found a TR shop/mechanic that is up to date with these cars and the current technology that's located in the Gulf South region somewhere.
Not until you try a couple things first!
Put it back together but leave the valve cover off. Start the car & listen if you hear the ticking from any of the pushrods slapping the rocker arms. If not put the valve cover back on. Then unbolt the flywheel cover & check the 3 bolts are tight.
Also look for cracks at each bolt hole.
If they are ok then start the car & listen to that area & see what you hear? Just be carefull as the flywheel will be spinng & it's teeth are no match for your body parts!
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I'm thinking it's time I found a TR shop/mechanic that is up to date with these cars and the current technology that's located in the Gulf South region somewhere.
Not until you try a couple things first!
Put it back together but leave the valve cover off. Start the car & listen if you hear the ticking from any of the pushrods slapping the rocker arms. If not put the valve cover back on.
I put it back together yesterday. I did not feeling anything contacting the valve covers, and on the passenger side I didn't see any evidence of contact on the inside of the valve cover. I stared it, and I didn't hear anything odd at the motor nor did I feel anything odd bouncing against the valve covers.
Then unbolt the flywheel cover & check the 3 bolts are tight.
Also look for cracks at each bolt hole.
Plan on doing that once this storm passes.
If they are ok then start the car & listen to that area & see what you hear? Just be carefull as the flywheel will be spinng & it's teeth are no match for your body parts!
That's really where it sounds like it's coming from.
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Gordy, the flywheel bolts are a quick and EASY check to do. Get a 15mm wrench and hang it on whatever bolt is showing. Yank it in the direction to tighten it until it's flush with the DS of the block (you'll be able tell right then if it was loose or not). When you get there the next bolt will be cued up.
Based on my experience if a loose bolt issue is your problem, they will all be loose fairly evenly.
On your pushrods it looks like one jamnut is down against the rod and the other is up against the rocker ball.... Are they supposed to be like that? If the threaded portion is a stud I could see that. If the threaded portion is captive to the ball, they both might need to be down on the pushrod side (away from the rocker).
I didn't realize you were around the Dothan area. I almost ran down to my moms condo in PCB this weekend but I couldn't allocate the gas money (plus the girl I'm talking to is stuck in school during the week :tongue ). I pass right through there getting on 231 Just past the Harbor Freight store!
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Gordy, the flywheel bolts are a quick and EASY check to do. Get a 15mm wrench and hang it on whatever bolt is showing. Yank it in the direction to tighten it until it's flush with the DS of the block (you'll be able tell right then if it was loose or not). When you get there the next bolt will be cued up.
Based on my experience if a loose bolt issue is your problem, they will all be loose fairly evenly.
On your pushrods it looks like one jamnut is down against the rod and the other is up against the rocker ball.... Are they supposed to be like that? If the threaded portion is a stud I could see that. If the threaded portion is captive to the ball, they both might need to be down on the pushrod side (away from the rocker).
I didn't realize you were around the Dothan area. I almost ran down to my moms condo in PCB this weekend but I couldn't allocate the gas money (plus the girl I'm talking to is stuck in school during the week :tongue ). I pass right through there getting on 231 Just past the Harbor Freight store!
I know exactly where that's at...I'm actually about 20 minutes west of Dothan.
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Best I can tell the converter bolts are tight. I don't have the time to figure this out, especially after Isaac is gonna have us running around like crazy in the Gulf South. So, I'm taking it to Chris Hogeland to get this thing ironed out. Been doing allot of reading on the adjustable push rods and the cam I have and have pretty much come to the conclusion that Bill's achilles heel is his reluctance to keep up with the current TR technology on the market today.
Pulled the white one out of storage finally and gonna tinker with it a bit while the black one is in the shop. Almost tempted to try and trade the white one on a stock TR, not real keen on white cars. It needs paint, so I'm thinking I might see if I can find someone that does paint at the local autocraft shop. Was thinking a two tone, white and blue with silver or grey pin stripes to separate the two colors.
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I always thought you used an adjustable pushrod to get the proper length, then had non adjustable units machined.
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That is the best way. Second best is to shim the rocker shafts
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I wrote this on my FB wall yesterday: "Starbuck's baristas would be envious of the concoction found in the bottom of my GN's Wix oil filter when we cut it open today...rich & black with thick caramel swirls and sparkly golden flakes throughout, all that was missing was some whip cream. Can't wait to see what this is going to cost me...awesome."
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Damn!
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I wrote this on my FB wall yesterday: "Starbuck's baristas would be envious of the concoction found in the bottom of my GN's Wix oil filter when we cut it open today...rich & black with thick caramel swirls and sparkly golden flakes throughout, all that was missing was some whip cream. Can't wait to see what this is going to cost me...awesome."
And this was his second try on this build?
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I wrote this on my FB wall yesterday: "Starbuck's baristas would be envious of the concoction found in the bottom of my GN's Wix oil filter when we cut it open today...rich & black with thick caramel swirls and sparkly golden flakes throughout, all that was missing was some whip cream. Can't wait to see what this is going to cost me...awesome."
And this was his second try on this build?
Yeah...I haven't talked to him about this yet, I took the car to someone else. On the advice and recommendation of others I decided to take the car to Chris Hogeland at Twisted 6 Racing. He's on the tb.com forums and from everything I've read and heard he seems like he's very good with these cars. Met him yesterday and I feel pretty good about it. Most likely once he gets into it we're going to go in a different direction with the push rods, cam, etc. that's more align with current technology out there.
Aside from the obvious priority of getting the motor running strong again, some other things I'm going to have done:
Replace the radiator and reconnect the engine and transmission oil coolers.
Fabricate a better retaining bracket/strap for some of the pre-luber lines.
Fabricate a better hangar strap for the exhaust near the race pipe.
Replace my electric oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge.
Install a hood mounted fuel pressure gauge.
Install an accessory fuse box.
Some things I might have done:
I have an ATR DP with a stock turbo housing, probably going to upgrade to a 3" DP.
I have a 1st generation SMC alcohol injection system, probably going to upgrade to a current system.
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I will buy your cast offs! :D
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Gordy, if you want me too, I'll go through your timing cover for you.
If I can swing a PCB trip sometime soon maybe we can meet around the Dothan area.
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I will buy your cast offs! :D
Gordy, if you want me too, I'll go through your timing cover for you
I mentioned to him that I had gotten it from you and he said he was familiar with your work.
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Wow...it's been awhile since I posted here. I got the '87 GN back and it's a beast. Lots of fun. I'm selling the '86 White T-Type...I don't have the time or energy for it.
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Glad it finally got straight!
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Glad it finally got straight!
I'm still nervous with it after having been burned on the second motor. I have a fresh motor and transmission.
This is basically what was done to it:
Twisted 6 Racing/Chris Hogeland Rebuild: 4340 Forged Stroker Crank, 4340 Forged 6" H-Beam Rods, Custom Roller Camshaft, Morel Roller Lifters, Custom Front Cover w/Oil Pump & Oil Pump Pickup Tube, Billet Main Caps, Custom Forged Pistons, Custom Ring Set, T&D 1.65 Roller Rockers, Custom Springs w/Lightweight Titanium Retainers for Roller Setup, 10° Locks for Springs, COMP Cams Valves, HD Valve Seals, SS Engine Bolts, Custom Trend Performance Push Rods, Billet Timing Chain, COMP Cam Internal Balancer, ARP Main Studs, MLS Head Gaskets, Push-Loc Vacuum Fittings, 3" SS Downpipe, SS Waste Gate Actuator, Boost Controller, JW Flex Plate, HD Flex Plate Bolts, HD Water Pump, Intake Spacer, HD PCV, COMP Cam Oil Pan Gasket, COMP Cam Intake Gasket, COMP Cam Rear Main Seal, COMP Cam Header Gaskets, & COMP Cam Valve Cover Gaskets
Transmission: Jason White (V6Racer) Stage II 200R4
Existing modifications:
AC Delco CD Player (part # 16085434) with wiring harness adapters
AEMC Digital EGT Monitor
Aluminum Brake Drums
ATR Adjustable Wastegate Actuator, Billet Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Charcoal Canister Relocation Kit, Driveshaft Loop, Heavy Duty Rear Sway Bar, Heavy Duty Transmission Pan, Polished SS MAF Pipe, Polished SS Throttle Body Inlet Pipe, SS 1½” Headers, SS 2½” Exhaust w/Pit Bull Mufflers, SS Crossover Pipe, SS Race Pipe, & Passenger Side Valve Cover Vent Kit
B&M Transmission Supercooler
Bill Ragland Custom Pre-Luber
Blistein Gas Shocks
Casper’s 3 Bar Map Sensor, Audible Knock Detector, Fan Harness GN to SPAL Fan, Headlight Brightener Harness, Heavy Duty Battery Positive Extender & Negative Battery Cable
Champion Ported Cast Iron Cylinder Head, GN1 Ported OEM Aluminum Intake Manifold, GN1 IAC Valve Adapter, CNC Series Buick Power 6 Valve Cover
Classictube SS 2 Piece Tank to Pump Line w/Inline Filter, SS Complete Brake Line, SS Emission Tube, SS Fuel Injection Feed Line Throttle Body Injection, SS Fuel Lines, SS Fuel Rail Feed, SS Fuel Rail Return Line, SS Transmission Line Kit, SS Vapor Line, & Stop Flex SS Braided Hose Kit
Conley 22 Row Intercooler
Cotton’s Performance Upgraded Rear Brakes
DC Tech Chromed Turbo Shield
Eibach Pro Kit Rate Springs
Full Throttle Speed 160° Thermostat, Dual Air Bag Kit, High Flow Water Pump, Power Logger, & Scanmaster Scan Tool
Gbodyparts Aluminum Bumper Supports, & 15” x 10” Grand National Wheels
HRpartsNstuff Poly Motor Mounts
K&N Air Filter
Kenne Bell Rear Seat BraceKirban’s Body Bolts, Engine Bay Mounted Front Brace Kit, GNX Body Bushings, Mechanical EFI Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit, Power Window Harness, Power Antenna Saver Wiring Kit, & Reproduction Body Bushings
Lo-Jack
Memphis Car Audio 3½” & 4”X10” Speakers
METCO Motorsports Adjustable Upper Control Arms, Lower Control Arms, Valve Cover Breathers, Billet Thermostat Housing, & Thermostat Clamp
Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Tires P275/50R15
Pat’s Performance 10” Lock Up 2800 Stall Converter
Performance Instruments 6 Gauge White Faced Stewart Warner GNX Style Instrument Cluster
PST Polygraphite Performance Super Kit
PTE TA52 Turbo & Turbo Saver
R-134A Air Conditioner Conversion
Red Armstrong (Quad Air Inc.) XP Plus Fuel Pump
Replica Plastics Bumper Fillers (Rear)
RJC Billet Aluminum Pulleys, PCV, & Power Plate
RK Hi Performance Billet Relay Covers
SMC Alcohol Injection
SPAL Dual 11” (2,780 cfm) Pull Fans w/Shroud
SSBC Quick Change Aluminum Caliper Upgrade Kit & OE Replacement Rotors
Steadfast Column Guard
Steve Monroe’s 62mm Machined Throttle Body & Matching Plenum
Stewart Warner Hood Mounted Fuel Pressure Gauge
TA Performance Bearing Cap Studs & Rear End Girdle
TR Custom Parts Aluminum High Flow 3 Row Radiator w/Oil & Transmission Cooler
Turbo Tweak Chip & High Impedance 60lb/hr Injectors
Turbobuicks.co m 200 Amp Alternator
Viper 791 XV 2-Way Security & Remote Start
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Some recent pics...
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Beautiful car...and a clean no expense spared build. :cheers: If it were my car, I wouldn't be trusting that old alky kit with that new engine.
May have missed it in the writeup...but what size turbo?
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Beautiful car...and a clean no expense spared build. :cheers: If it were my car, I wouldn't be trusting that old alky kit with that new engine.
May have missed it in the writeup...but what size turbo?
Well, that old alcohol kit was practically rebuilt a couple years ago and it works. But I will probably buy a new one at some point and have it installed. I was actually surprised when Chris said no, it's fine the way it is...if it ain't broke don't replace it.
PTE TA52 turbo
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Beautiful car...and a clean no expense spared build. :cheers: If it were my car, I wouldn't be trusting that old alky kit with that new engine.
May have missed it in the writeup...but what size turbo?
Well, that old alcohol kit was practically rebuilt a couple years ago and it works. But I will probably buy a new one at some point and have it installed. I was actually surprised when Chris said no, it's fine the way it is...if it ain't broke don't replace it.
PTE TA52 turbo
And if ain't one thing, it's another.
Started getting some haze, little puff of smoke from the exhaust after idling a bit or stopped while in traffic. Doesn't smoke during normal course of driving and doesn't immediately start smoking when I stop. Was fine most of the day today, until I got to downtown and traffic was crazy so I was sitting still quite awhile and she started smoking.
I'm guessing/hoping it's the turbo seal.
So:
- Check the for oil in the pipe to the throttle body from the inter-cooler
- Check the PCV
- Check for back and forth movement of the turbo wheel
- Take off the downpipe and check for oil in the exhaust housing side
God I hope that's it. This thing is a giant money pit of Evil.
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So I've done everything but take off the DP. The throttle body and pipe looked dry. When I opened the throttle and shined a light back beyond the blade it does have a shiny gleen to it back there. I couldn't feel any play on the turbo wheel.
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So, I haven't taken the DP off yet. But I did look around a bit. There was a large drop of oil getting ready to fall from the where the passenger header & crossover pipe attach to the bottom of the turbo, the triangular gasket looks shiny and wet too. Also, I could see evidence of oil that had dripped down below. The oil line from the turbo to the front of the block was dry (what's that line called?).
Going to take the DP off in the morning...
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Large line to the front of the block is return...small to the top of the turbo is supply.
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sounds like oil in the turbo...is it smoking out the tail pipes?
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sounds like oil in the turbo...is it smoking out the tail pipes?
Yes. And a neat little black ring has appeared around the tips. Trying to get the turbo off now. I plan on sending it and the TA49 I have sitting around off to be rebuilt.
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That's a 2800 convertor in that car. Knowing what I know now, I'd put a Precision .83 exhaust housing on that 49...set the boost at 28 PSI... a 116 5.7 chip from Eric...and lite the fuse. :rock:
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How much shaft play on the turbo?
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How much shaft play on the turbo?
I didn't feel any. But we'll see if PTE detects it. I sent both turbos off, should be there today and hopefully I'll know more soon.
Really, really hoping they say that the seals are shot and don't come back and say they look great.
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Well good news, I think.
PTE found a leak on the turbine side of the turbo I had on the car.
So, I'm having both the 52 and the 49 rebuilt. I'll probably sell the 49.
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How much you looking to get for the 49 after the rebuild...and what size exhaust housing is on it? :)
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How much you looking to get for the 49 after the rebuild...and what size exhaust housing is on it? :)
Not sure on the exact size. I can take a pic of it when it gets back. I had it on the car back when I had the ATR SS 2.5 DP, ATR crossover pipe, headers, etc.
I'd like to get $500 + S&H for it. I had it installed in 2004 and it had somewhere in the neighborhood of 3K-4K miles on it. It does come with a 1 year warranty from PTE.
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Anybody want to take a trip to Fairhope, AL (midway between Mobile and Pensacola) to help me reinstall the turbo and replace the power steering pump? I have no clue what I'm doing and don't want to fuck it up. Taking the turbo off was easy...but I really hate messing with gaskets, sealants, and torques; I always seem to muck it up.
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Gordy, I would come and help but I moved back to Atlanta!
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No worries. How's the ATL? I make my way up a 2-3 times a year. I'll let you know when I'm in town. I try to avoid NOLA and BTR like the plague...
It sucks not having anybody around here that knows anything about these cars...I'm an outcast, surrounded by Mini Coopers and old British roadsters. I see more MGs and Triumphs here than anywhere else I've ever been. I see a lot of old muscle cars, but they are usually tucked away in a garage, covered in old blankets and dust.
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Checking in...
Been insanely busy, bought a new (old) house and I've been busy with new old house problems :)
The GN got a new P/S pump and all new lines. Still feels a little stiff to me but no more ratcheting (for now).
And it got a new headliner, the old one lasted about 14 years so I think I got my money's worth out of it. Funny how they go, one minute I'm backing it out of the garage and all is well. 2 hours in the sun, and the headliner is sagging like an old woman at the grocery store in a tube top.
And I got my new (old) truck too!
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glad to see you are thriving amidst new old problems. Somethings never change. One thing that I have noted that even relatively new new things are usually beset by the same old problems that used to only occur in new old things.
Most of GM headliners of the '80's only lasted about three years in Texas heat. Gluing fabric to foam was not a good idea once the temp hit 80 degs.
Buying new old stuff is kinda like getting remarried. The flaws are more obvious and may be a lot more manageable to deal with than marrying a new new one who may turn out to be a maskless Jason.
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So...I'm pretty sure the universe is against me or the car is cursed.
It all started going downhill with that noise I heard under the hood and wound up replacing a belt, alternator, and belt tensioner pulley until it was eliminated. Then the smoke came back, and kept getting worse...along with spitting gobs of black soot. Followed by an oil leak, some knock (we saw 10+ degrees at WOT), and a thermostat failure. The guy that put the motor together has gone AWOL and won't return calls, texts, or PMs (and in typical TR vendor fashion I start hearing about all the bad experiences people had with him after the fact).
I don't have the time, energy, or skills to fix it so I've had to take it to yet another mechanic. A couple of folks that have seen the car suspect that the smoke might be due to a passage in the heads but who knows. And in typical fashion for this cursed car, after I unload it off the trailer at the shop...there is a puddle of oil with bright green radiator fluid sitting on the trailer floor. Awesome, thanks universe. I'd feel better about all this if I beat the shit out of the car, but I don't race it or get on it other than an occasional stop light fun. And I haven't even put a 1,000 miles on it since the rebuild...I understand there is an inherent risk with a performance car and there are no warranties, but damn...this is the 3rd motor. Getting really frustrated with this thing (not so frustrated that I'd sell her...but still frustrated). Really wish I could find someone more local that's good with these cars instead of having to drive 7 hours one way...that's getting old too.
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With any old piece of equipment or vehicle there is maintenance and repair. These fine automobiles are no exception. Unfortunately the Buick engine has some quirks and require some know how and attention to detail. You know this or you wouldn't be taking the car to the specialist. Keep at it. I think that doing it myself is much more rewarding than having someone else do it but it does require much more time and effort. Those fully restored trailer queens you see out at even local shows have a LOT of money in them. Even if the owner did it themselves time is money and there is a lot in there to make it nice and have it reliable.
Keep moving forward. It can be conquered with some effort and money. Take it one thing at a time and you will have a reliable vehicle in no time.
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Damn the luck! I feel your pain Gordy at least the frustrating part. Keep at it man, the reward is worth the effort!
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so what are the o2s and blms when this black gob spitting/smoke problem occurs?
Are you running a factory radiator with the oil cooler connected to the the radiator?
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I'd be curious to know what the 02's were at WOT when the KR count went over 10.
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BLMs at idle around 140, at WOT were steady at 132. O2s at idle were all over IIRC and at WOT were around 780-800.
When I get the car back, I need to DL powerlogger software again and get that back up and running.
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BLMs at idle around 140, at WOT were steady at 132. O2s at idle were all over IIRC and at WOT were around 780-800.
When I get the car back, I need to DL powerlogger software again and get that back up and running.
Had you played with the fueling of the chip? 140 at idle is saying that it needs more fuel. Possible vacuum leak as well or fuel pressure set a tad low.
132 at WOT is saying you either added fuel through progamming of the chip or the ECM is seeing something that's telling it to add fuel which is odd because the chip should be closed loop there. Something else to consider is that the TPS may not be over the WOT voltage threshold, meaning you didn't have the pedal all the way to the floor or the TPS wasn't set correctly.
780-800 on the O2's at WOT... is that at a 1-2 shift? 2-3 shift? At the rev limiter in 3rd?
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its fat and the computer is still adding fuel, cracked header, vacuum leak or a flacky 02 sensor would be my start.
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what is the maf reading at idle?
If the coolant has oil in it, and the oil cooler lines are still connected to the radiator, then it would appear the cooler in the radiator has cracked thus allowing oil into the coolant.
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The engine oil cooler lines aren't plumbed, it's bypassed. I have no idea what the MAF is, didn't think to jot that down and it's about 7 hours away now.
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BLM's 140. KR at WOT 10. Antifreeze on the ground. Was the engine idling smooth? Did you notice the exhaust sounding a little louder under the hood?
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did we ask if the dip stick or the underside of the filler cap showed any "milk"? I would think it would have to blow into the valley to get oil in the coolant-if there is oil in the coolant
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No milk. Only exhaust sound that was out of the ordinary was an exhaust leak that may have been coming from the race pipe coupling. Idled smooth.
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Steve...is it possible he pushed a headgasket outwards? Could the antifreeze leak and the new exhaust leak he heard add up to a blown headgasket? I'd think the idle would be a tad off tho.
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I understood him to say the coolant had oil in it....that is the reason I said it would have to be blown into the valley...don't think there is a way for oil to get into the coolant from a hg unless it blows on the valley side and coolant goes into the valley.
Then, we should see some signs of oil in the breathers or on the dip stick in the form of milk. As the engine oil cooler is bypassed, that eliminates coolant oil from that source. Now, I hope to hell the oil cooler adapter was removed or the oil cooler hoses were connected together. The worst thing one can do is to plug the holes where the hoses screw into the adapter as that forces all the engine oil to go thru the bypass and it usually starts to make funny noises pretty quick.
But, yes, it does sound like a blown hg from 1500 miles away
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Whenever we started it and moved it, there would be a small puddle of oil with bright green coolant in it. I think the oil cooler hoses were routed properly, it has a turbo saver kit and a pre-luber plumbed in there as well.
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you need to find out where it is leaking from and you need to check the oil for signs of coolant in the oil
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Frustrating to say the least, it's in Don Cruz's hands now.
Getting a new block, girdle, XFI, TR6, double pumpers...
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Damn! Did all 6 blow the gasket?
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How fast do you plan on running?
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Right now I'd be happy with just running reliably...
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Damn! Did all 6 blow the gasket?
#6 was "real bad" and #1 was "bad".
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Shitty 😒
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I went back and checked your build. I see no mention of a hotwire kit for the fuel pump.
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I went back and checked your build. I see no mention of a hotwire kit for the fuel pump.
It has one. Racetronix I think.
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Why the need for a new block and XFI?
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Don said the block was damaged and I basically had three options. Epoxy it and wait for it to blow up in my face, or work it and the pistons, or just replace the damn thing.
A few people I know have it (XFI) and swear by it.
We are also upgrading the alky system since Julio is local to him.
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Sounds like a plan for long term. I hope it works out. I bet it is a beast when you get it back.
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This will be the 4th motor...let's hope so. I'm really concerned now about what's actually in the motor (or what I was told would be in the motor but actually isn't) since the 3rd builder has decided to play a disappearing act and gone AWOL. That's the other part that sucks about living so far away from people is I can't just show up at their door.
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Wow, what a journey. I'm hoping this one works out for you.
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You have gone thru a lot of sh*t with that car.
Wish you kept the other one instead? :)
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Right now I'd be happy with just running reliably...
There's a hot rumour floating around of a guy up in Canada that's run 6.72 at 104.67...which is the equivalent of 10.4x. Bone stock short block...massag ed big valve stock heads...little 62 turbo...Erics 5.7 chip and tuned with narrow band. He gets 20 miles per gallon and wouldn't hesitate to drive it to Texas to visit Steve, Rich and Jason. He has less money is his short block than an XFI setup.
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When you coming? I gotta get the propane cylinder filled so we can cook outdoors. Better in the summer when we can use the pool. If Kenedale is open we can head down and make passes or up to NorthStar or out east to Redline if they have that up and running
All 1/8th mile but generally loads of fun.
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I'm likely retiring next fall. Visiting you guys is on the list when I hang it up. :)
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I can take you out in the pasture! :D
Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk
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Lol!
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I will even let you call shotgun!
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Come on down in October. It's still nice weather then. We'll take a deer with a crossbow. Also good turbo weather then. If you can't make it then, come down in late spring and we'll go float the Guadalupe.
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Come on down in October. It's still nice weather then. We'll take a deer with a crossbow. Also good turbo weather then. If you can't make it then, come down in late spring and we'll go float the Guadalupe.
Had my firearms license back in the 90's. Was a member at the handgun club outside of town. Had a friend on a SWAT team. He had a whole arsenal of weapons we'd have fun with. :)
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Just be aware. Many who come never leave, because it is a GREAT place to live.
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So...I got the car back. Verdict is still out because I don't want to jinx it. One of two things happened with my previous build...either I was royally screwed or someone got past my home security system and went through the trouble of replacing the motor I paid for with an identically appearing motor that was destined to fail. Someone out there has some really nice parts on their car that I paid for.
Anyways...the only thing Don could save that wasn't junk was the block, the intake manifold, heads, and the front cover. When I bought the heads originally (used) I was told they were the first generation of Champion Irons...Champi on couldn't guarantee 100% that they were their heads.
So at the end of the day, head repair, machine work, new pistons, new rods, new crank (CRUZ TSM 3.400), new bearings, new cam (CRUZ TSM), lifters, new billet chain, new lifters, new girdle, new BHJ balancer, ARP bolts, XFI, TR6, Scanmaster 3, Boost Leash Boost Controller, CO2 Kit, double pumper fuel system with heavy duty braided lines front to back with new custom CRUZ fuel rails, new regulator, completely redone/relocated vacuum lines, new ALKY methanol kit, and Cotton's FMIC.
The motor looks nice. It sounds really quiet, really quiet. Once the XFI does it's thing after start up...the idle is unbelievably smooth and the throttle response is just amazing. It's almost eerie how quiet the motor is...hell the dual SPALs drown out the motor when they come on. Don has the boost set at 15 for now and it gets there immediately. I need to go back in and check the settings on the XFI to see if the speed is set for KPH versus MPH as the SM3 is not showing accurate MPH ( I think it said I was doing 125 when I was doing around 60). I'm hoping it's not something to do with the Stewart Warner gauges...the old SM 2.1 and power logger displayed correctly.
He'd like for me to go with a bigger turbo and injectors...ri ght now I still have the rebuilt PTE TA52 and 60lbs. injectors but I need a new roof and after what I paid for this third rebuild...I'm done spending big money on the GN for awhile.
Forgot to mention, he also removed the "custom" pre-luber, he was not thrilled with it at all.
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Looks like it will run now- and Don will stand behind his work. enjoy!
Leave it the F* alone :)
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Looks like it will run now- and Don will stand behind his work. enjoy!
Leave it the F* alone :)
Yeah, so far I'm really happy about the decision to bring him the car. The guys in FL I've met have nothing but good things to say about him. For those that aren't aware, he's decided to pursue working on cars full time:
http://www.cruzperformance.com/home.html (http://www.cruzperformance.com/home.html)