IHADAV8.com - Turbo Buick Tech, and Nonsense
Tech Area => General Buick Tech => Topic started by: larrym on May 05 2019, 02:35:38 PM
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Car has had a new turbo 6262 added and a Lorenz controller TH style downpipe.
Puck moves freely and all hoses are new.
Installed a powerlogger for him and said I would help setup a decent tune in it.
Power logger and boost gauge both read the same
28-29 psi. (Car ran like a raped ape)
Cranked the boost controller back as far as I could no change. Loosened the actuator 1/4 inch there was slack no change. Unhooked the boost controller went tuner style no change.
I might try a lighter can if I can find one local.
Boost pressure not getting to the can perhaps?
Any other ideas?
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Hook it up tuner style and see if by it drops down
It
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I tried that Steve no change.
That was was what made me think there is no boost getting to the can
One thing I did not try but should have was unhook the actuator.
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Make sure the hose isn't pinch off or the controller is installed backwards.
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first trying pumping a little air with a mitey mite or something similar that is around 20 psi and see if the actuator is working...and then your idea of removing the arm
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Ok so far tested the can with air it seems to work as it should.
Looked at the fitting and casting of the turbo they seem good no blockage
A test with the actuator disconnected is in the works.
This downpipe was on the old turbo worked well then.
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How big is the wastegate hole? Sometimes they need opened up
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I did not install the turbo so I’m not sure. Once I hear back on the test with the actuator off I will have to pull the downpipe and see hope it’s not that hate pulling apart a brand new turbo to port the exhaust.
I got the exact turbo on mine with an external gate I can get the boost down to 14psi.
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Take a very good close look at the vacuum lines from turbo to Y
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Is the puck opening?
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Wire the puck open and drive it. See how much boost builds with the puck wired open. If it’s above 10 psi, you need to open up the hole. Helps to blend the turn to the waste gate hole as well. My 6262 with a .63 housing did the same thing when I first installed it.
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:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :rock:
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I think I pull that housing off and see if it even has a hole.
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arrg i did not want to pull off the turbo or take it apart.... its a very shinny car means I gotta be careful and clean I'm a farmer :O
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If you have the right tool, you should be able to do it on the car
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That’s a nice one. I like those spoolfool heat shields
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RJC biggie puck .900 hole.
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I'm hoping he gets this sorted out and report back. I'm in the same boat....kinda. I don't want to hijack thread so I'll chill and wait to see what happens here
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no worries Phil hyjack away. I'm pretty sure its the housing needs to be ported.
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Lol, well I changed my mind on the hyjack mainly due to Scoobum precisely saying that the 6262 should be ported before install a while back. I heard him, but didn't listen. Lol. I'm taking the turbo off soon to port and match the new downpipe and we'll see what happens then.
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LOL...learn whom to listen to!
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Please tell me you ordered the correct alky chip...and you're not trying to get a street chip to work. I have vids on my channel on how to install head gaskets...
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What's wrong with that? Now using a alky chip without alky well that could be problematic
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Nothing as long as you can dial it in. It's probably gonna be fat at WOT.
Before alky chips came along we made do with what we had. I ran a thrasher race gas chip with pump/alky - everyone thought I was nuts until they saw it work.
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What's wrong with that? Now using a alky chip without alky well that could be problematic
You're right...run it with a street chip. Eric has a street, alky, race, and E85 chip for a reason. Read up on each one of his chips...each is a different animal. That's the biggest problem with these cars. People don't read...and they don't listen.
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Nothing as long as you can dial it in. It's probably gonna be fat at WOT.
Before alky chips came along we made do with what we had. I ran a thrasher race gas chip with pump/alky - everyone thought I was nuts until they saw it work.
That's the difference. You and Scoob know how to tune. Those that don't...and most don't...will end up with engine damage. I'm running Erics race chip in my car right now with the timing backed off...but I sure as hell wouldn't tell anyone else to do it.
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I always thought that thumbwheel prom adapter was a great idea
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Stupid Turbonetics! I've never had to do that with my turbonetics turbos!
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I don't listen sometimes, but I read everything all the time. :cheers:
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I also think it's important to note that the reason I bought the alky kit was to test my O2's in third at the same boost. If my car cant run properly at 17lbs of boost with a little alky sprayed, there is a problem anyway. There is no point in an alky chip until I get everything else running and tuned properly. Fast forward to the present, we come to learn that my passenger side header is cracking, which explains the lean O2's in third gear at any boost level, whether 12lbs or 17lbs.
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A few gallons of c16 and a new o2 sensor would have been much cheaper than an alchy kit.
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C16 will slow a car about 2 tenths on 25 PSI and lower. Scoob already tested it. We used C12.
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C16 will slow a car about 2 tenths on 25 PSI and lower. Scoob already tested it. We used C12.
Absolutely!
throw in the price of race gas and the cost of o2 sensors, and the alky kit gets cheap fast!
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I thought we were just testing.
$20 for an o2 and another $20 for a couple gallons of c16 once for the test or $500 for the alchy kit. Seemed cheaper for the test.
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Just for testing. some vacuum and gas lines and some orifices Wala an alcohol kit for $20 or so.
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The alky kit was a future investment anyway, it made no sense to search for race gas in the area for testing...
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C16 will slow a car about 2 tenths on 25 PSI and lower. Scoob already tested it. We used C12.
Ya we used what I called weasel piss. Thank God for Alky systems now :cool; C16 was prob the first thing I discovered didn't work back in 87. :icon_redface: